Come Pep-tember with Vogue 8815

Peplum tops are still trending on-line and off-line.

A DKNY silk/elastane top from Saksfifthavenue.com

 

Three months ago at a local Macy's, Heather posing next to a cats-printed top with a price tag of $150, if I recall correctly.

Vogue 8815:
Misses' fitted tops with raised waist and hem-line variations, narrow hem. I sewed view "B" with the nearly elbow-length sleeves and back zipper. 
I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips.

 

 

Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like that the peplum is proportional with respect to the bodice and how it appears on my figure. The peplum neither hugs my hips nor extensively "flares out".   Using a print, I did not notice if there was something strange about the top tips of the vertical bust darts. The upper back edge of the top comes somewhat high at the neckline. As for the front and back bodice, I did not need to make my usual petite adjustment at the waist. So, if you are not short-waisted as myself, you might have to lengthen the bodice. 

I used a  cotton twill from a previous project.

 

From 2 years ago,  a Simplicity 2373 cropped jacket in the same fabric.

Two months ago, I sewed a peplum top sewn New Look 6130.  I really did not like this top on me.  The front neckline was loose and although the peplum skirt looked lovely on the model, I did not like it that much on me.

 

Now "back" to Vogue 8815:

Alterations/Modifications
*Narrowed the upper back from the center /3/8", tapering to 0" above the waistline

*Shorened the sleeves nearly 2 1/2" because the original length did not seem to be flattering.

* There was quite a bit of tease when attaching the sleeves. I removed at most nearly 1" from the top edge of each sleeve head.

*To finish the neckline and lower edge of the peplum, I used lace hem tape which worked so well with this nearly circular type of hem. I sewed one edge of the lace at a 1.4" seam allowance to the right side of the edge and turned it over and tucking beneath prior to top-stitching. I did not experience the "crinkled hem" that I typically experience from folding a narrow hem and top-stitching.

 
Future Plans/Recommendations:
My fear of making and wearing peplums has dissippated! I can see why this top has become a favorite at patternreview.com.

 

This MSGM top from farfetch.com looks very much like view "B" from Vogue 8815, except that the peplum appears shorter.

Happy Mother's Day and Happy Sewing!

Some "Kwik" Cosmetic Sew-gery

I purchased at the McCalls pattern website on sale before they became discontinued.

Desccription
"Misses close-fitting pullover tops have deep V-neckline, overlapped front, and neckline edge finished with narrow hem.  View A has three-quarter length sleeves.  View B has empire waist

nd short sleeves."  The sizes are XS-S-M-L-XL.

I anticipate close-fitting to be "tight" especially with the type of knit I used and Kwik Sew's recommended 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance (I prefer sewing a 1/2"-5/8" seam allowance), and I don't feel comfortable wearing body-hugging outfits.  I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.

 

Note the  adjective "deep" in boldface.  On me, it came "very" deep...

Instructions
They were direct, clear, and so were the diagrams. All come in a convenient, brochure style page (front and back), folded in thirds.

 I also liked the "recommended sewing procedures" or some helpful tips that came after the layout diagrams and before the instructions for both views.   Such tips include the types of thread (cotton or synthetic), types of needle (11/75 or 12/80 ballpoints), and types of stitches (reverse cycle, zig zag, straight stitch, serger/overlock).


Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like the classic front cross-over style at the bust and the empire seam that came about 2" above my waistline, thus evading a "matronly" style.  My only reservations are the really low neckline (serious competition with typical Burda patterns).   I wish I had lengthened the top 1" at the lower edge.  So if you are not short-waisted, you might have to watch for the length. There is nothing really much to dislike about this pattern.  See the 100 + reviews for yourself on Patternreview.com!


Fabric Used:
"Just Cavalli" signature knit jersey with arrays of lipsticks...

Alterations
* 3/4" petite adjustment at the adjustment line
* narrow the upper back 3/8" from center back seam (3/4" width)
* tack the center front to prevent some "indecent exposure"

Recommendations
 Yes. I am planning to sew more and I highly recommend this top for its faux wrap style that flatters every figure and for its simplicity in construction.  I can easily imagine this as a quick gratification project.

Definitely sew this one, if you have this pattern and have not tried it.  Before you know it, you will want MORE than one...

Thank you for visiting!

Going Mod-Quad-ic

I added this simply mod-ilicious 37-year old pattern to my wishlist three years ago, found it last year and just sewed view "A" recently. 

I took a chance on an ITY jersey (from fabricmart.com) with some seemingly random and massive print:

 

If you are interested in my mod-venture with this classic Butterick, here's a link to my retro blog post.

Update: 5/4/13:
Look what I found! The R & M Richardson dress from bonton.com with a print that somewhat resembles mine, except it has triangles and I have circles. It was the closest I discovered after some random on-line surfing on the net.

Happy Sewing!

Third Tie Around with Butterick 5859

My addiction to Butterick 5859 returned recently. 

 

Original post with my first and second versions:
http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/03/double-bow-talks-with-dose-of-butterick.html

The only changes from my previous versions were using a viscose woven and cutting the front and back on the bias.


A small sample of my fabric purchases earlier this year: 

Using the "French navy/latte woodcut design viscose woven", I sewed my third version of Butterick 5859:

 

Second and first versions made a month ago:

 After sewing three of these, it probably would have been more efficient for me to stitch one edge (unnotched) of the collar portion of the tie to the neckline before stitching the tie/bow ends while the collar is folded in half lengthwise, right sides together, leaving the collar open between the clipped and reinforced slits (marked circles).  By transposing these two steps, I could more accurately gauge where I would start stitching the tie/bow seam allowance:  at the point where the collar portion meets the little turned-in topstitched hem (center front) that will eventually be covered by the bow.

There is quite a bit of "fluttering" at the sleeves.

After 6 class periods and a department meeting, be prepared for a "hair-ricane" and some "o"-lectric shock.  Also getting only a few hours of sleep after providing my daughter with some guidance for her 4th grade project did not help. 

At the front garden, Mission San Diego de Alcala on a Saturday afternoon.

Heather's project (I helped with the triangular prisms, the little flower pots made out of soda caps or glue stick caps covered with modeling clay, toothpicks).  Before the structures, she started with pieces of cardboard and glued "expired" pieces of macaroni pasta shells onto some rectangular cardboard pieces.  I would not have the patience to do that.  The chapel consists of a Twix candy box originally purchased at Costco, stuffed with scraps of fabric to give it some weight, and covered with white construction paper.  The bell tower consists of  clay, foam board squares, a former Trader Joe chocolate chip pringle-style cookie container, and for the lower structure was a former Starbucks box with little packets of chocolate mix.  The convento or monastery, currently a reliquary museum, was originally a larger U.S.Postal priority box also covered with construction paper.

 

More photos from different angles in the photostream.

Ready for Loretti

I can easily envision the word "Loretti" with a fine Italian sportscar.  As for Loretti Patterns, I have not yet "test sewn" any of my pattern downloads that I have had in my pattern downloads folder for some time now at printsew.com.

I revisited the sewingpatterns.com to what Loretti patterns were available and was impressed by the fashion forward styles.   I purchased 10 patterns which are the minimum to evade the $0.75 processing fee. Once I got past the daunting task of printing, assembling the rows and columns of sheets, and cutting the pieces, I acquired newly found confidence to sew a recently purchased pattern.

Lekala 5563, same pattern but under the Lekala name, with option to input your measurements for a more customized fit  

Pattern Description: 
Misses' shirt/blouse with collar, button front closure, bust darts, front and back vertical darts, sleeve insets and cuffs.  There is the option to select one of the following sizes prior to downloading:  Misses' small, medium, or large.  I sewed the medium.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/heathersvard_avstil/8583958926/in/set-72157631661887855/

 From a technological standpoint, I had to download the "fileopen" plug in that works in conjunction with Adobe acrobat for reading and printing pdf files. After I purchased the patterns from sewingpatterns.com, I received an email confirmation that my patterns are available on printsew.com. I already had an account at printsew.com under my email address. After entering my password, there was a folder containing past and current downloads from printsew.com. I had to switch from the firefox/mozilla browser to Internet Explorer to be able to successfully read and print the multi-page pdf document of a particular pattern. Although the price is $0.99 from sewingpatterns.com, it took some time and patience to piece together the 28 sheets of lined diagrams. It was like working with a puzzle, which can be enjoyable at times. I found it helpful to cut two edges of a sheet (i.e. left and top edge) to be able to paste (gluestick) it onto the adjacent or neigboring sheets while aligning the matching the"little black squares" at the borders.

 

Fabric: 
I used a cotton woven with loud houndstooth print, purchased from fabric.com nearly 2 years ago. I do not know what possessed me to purchase this fabric with such an interesting color combination. It did look more appealing on the web page and fortunately it was nearly a dream (experienced when working with Liberty of London's cotton lawns) to work with.  


Similarity to the Pattern as Illustrated
Only at the bodice portion. I modified the collar and sleeves. It was a challenge to get the rows of print on the left and right sections to align... 

Instructions
They were easy to follow in terms of the sequencing, but for construction details (i.e. the front bands, the collar with stand, sleeve insets and cuffs), you are better off relying on your experience and/or other helpful resources such as sewing books, YouTube video tutorials, and the blogosphere. The printed instructions remind me of those found in Style Arc patterns and are just as "cryptic" found in Burda Style magazines. Maybe something got lost when translating from the original Russian instructions.

There is no visual pattern layout. I noticed that after piecing the 28 page pattern, there were two separate pieces for the front, the left and the front. The left front was labeled in Russian ("Levaya Polochka" or левая полочка from Google translator) and was printed as if it were also another right front. So, I turned this pattern piece over before cutting.

 As for the front bands (referred to as "front part's front band's blind fly one-piece facings") from the befuddling directions, I was still not sure whether they wanted them inside and top-stitched for a faux front placket style or them being visible on the outside. If the faux front placket style was intended, then I was supposed to have turned the left and right front bands face down on the fabric. The bands which look more like facings due to their width, were to be attached along the edges, right sides together and turned to the inside before top-stitching for a faux front placket style. I was not able to do that since I cut the bands/facings the way they were printed (in the same manner their fronts were). Instead I sewed each facing (visible or right side) to the wrong side, flipped it to the outside, trim to approximately 1 1/2" width, turn the raw edge under, press and top-stitch close to the edge to create the front plackets on the visible side.

Front placket

 

I tried this one for the collar with stand:
http://www.surefitdesigns.com/Shirt_Collars_AS.pdf

 The construction and attachment of the sleeve insets (located between the upper sleeves and cuffs) were vague. They are pleated if the fabric you use for they was pleated to begin with. The directions are nothing more than "make, slash somewhere, and stitch".  


Likes/Dislikes
This is one of many styles that I liked from the Loretti series. I read from a sewing message board that they are Lekala patterns with another name. Although I liked the style as presented on the website and the fit is acceptable, I discovered that the neckline was unacceptably low and the collar as worn on the illustrated model does not work with those as myself who do not possess swan-like necks. I spent more time (in comparison to sewing time) with deciphering the directions, figuring out the pattern layout, and working around the errors I made as a result of assuming the pieces such as the left and right front facings were printed the way as they would be placed on the fabric.  


Alterations/Modifications
 *My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline and narrowing of the upper back.

*Omitted the front closure of the collar and tacked the ends to the neckline. *Omitted the sleeve insets and cuffs. I did not want to spend more time decoding the directions and thought the top look better without the long sleeves. *I shortened the sleeves and elasticized the hem.  


Future Plans/Recommendations
I do not plan to sew this top again the near future.   I am not certain enough to truly recommend it. I was glad not to delve into "better" fabric with my first experience with this pattern.

Conclusion: I plan to try Lekala 5167 that I purchased some time ago. It is also available as a Loretti download. Maybe I will have a different experience with the "Lekala" type.

On the subject of houndstooth print,
Lady Golfers going fashion forward?

 

Double Bow Talks with a Dose of Butterick 5859

Butterick 5859, "MISSES' JACKET, BLOUSE, SKIRT AND PANTS: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has pockets and self-fringe. Fitted blouse has bias collar extending into tie ends, front-button closing, shaped hemline and narrow hem. Fitted and flared skirt and semi-fitted, straight-legged pants have raised waist and back zipper. D: princess seams. Sleeves B, C and hemline D: very narrow hem."

 

Instructions
Although I did not use them much, they seemed easy to follow, especially if you are familiar with sewing tops of this style. 

For the first version, I made a narrow hem in the same manner given by this very helpful tutorial: 
 
http://mytwobutterflies.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-to-sew-baby-hem-on-delicate-fabrics.html


Likes/Dislikes
It is a simple top to sew (front, back, sleeves, neck tie/bow) and I like the side-shaping and bow-tie style. I am not able to come up with dislikes except for wishing I had gone up a size for the polka dotted top or cutting the front and back on the bias due to its lack of ease. Different fabrics produce varying results in fit, after working with a charmeuse-type fabric and a woven cotton.


Fabric
First version: cotton woven suitable for quilting.

 

 Second version: clearance charmeuse/poly type from JA's.

Alterations/Modifications
*My typical petite adjustment at the waistline and narrow upper back adjustment. 

*Instead of stitching one edge of the collar to the neckline on the outside, right sides together, I stitched it on the inside, or the right side of the edge of the collar to the "wrong" side of the neckline. Then I flipped the collar to the outside, pressed the raw edge under and topstitched very close to the seam formed by the neckline and collar. I would rather do this than toptstitch from the inside of the blouse and be surprised with seeing "stray" and/or randomly placed topstitches by the visible side of the collar.

Second version:
*Made repeated overcast stitches at the lower edge for a "lettuce" hem effect
*Cut sleeves on the bias 

 

Conclusion:

I would not just recommend it for the top, but also for the other coordinates that are terrific basics to have in your wardrobe.

I plan to sew the jacket and pants.

More Butterick within the same week... Not my favorite knit top due to the gathered bodice beneath the bust and the "low" long sleeves, but easy.

 

I only like the elasticized shoulders and the "penguin" illusion print. Here I am experiencing the first day of daylight savings time. It was a challenge to wake up one hour earlier. I had to pick up something from campus that weekend. But the sunshine was superb. I hope the senior h.s. students do not get upset over us "borrowing" their lawn for some vanity pics. 

 

 Silly girl...  

 

Just before leaving campus, on a bench with "Monty the Mustang" and the acronym of the school's name (that I erased in this photo). 

Going Peplumdicular and Have a Peppy Pi (3.14...) Day

From the Simplicity.com website:
"Misses' Sportswear: Misses' peplum top with neckline and sleeve variations, slim pants, pencil skirt and tie belt. New Look sewing pattern."

 

The instructions were easy to follow. At first glance, I thought that I would have issues with the peplum. I was able to follow the markings for the pleats and attach the peplum to the bodice successfully.

I wanted to "catch" the peplum trend before it fades into obscurity. Although I like the style on the model and my fellow PR'ers who reviewed this pattern, I was not satisfied with the style and fit on me. The front neckline was loose and the bodice was snug. The style did not appear to mesh well with my proportions. Even if I went up a size or two at the bodice, I still would not be sure.  The facing for the neckline did not adequately encompass the front of the neckline which was somewhat spacious for me. As a "quick fix" to eliminate the "gaposis", I folded in two darts equidistant from the center. 

I used a cotton woven from fabric.com.

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes:
*Performed my typical petite 1" adjustment at the waistline (which seemed to be unnecessary) and narrowing of the upper back 3/8" from the center seam.

 
*Cut the peplum in a reflection of what was shown on the pattern envelope in order to be able to accommodate all pattern pieces on the fabric 

*The armscye facing bias strips were somewhat wide and long for the armscyes. I narrowed and shortened the strips before stitching their seams and attaching to the armscyes.

Recommendations
I am not sure if I will give this pattern another chance. I still would recommend it if you are looking for a stylish peplum top that is fairly simple to sew. 

Conclusion
Perhaps a fabric in a flattering solid or print would have produced a more favorable outcome. 

This morning, still "dozey", before getting ready for school (she wanted the crown to stay at home).  Heather turned 10 earlier this morning at 12:15 a.m.   Have a happy pi or 3.14... day!