Three Tops from a Freebie Two-Piece Pattern

Here is a free, downloadable pattern for a two-piece sleeveless top (can be easily converted to a dress by adding length) with a "keyhole" front opening. I would describe the top/dress having more of an "elliptical cutout" above the bust.

It comes in a misses' 6-8-10-12. 

No instructions are included, just the 12 pattern sheets in a PDF format to be taped together. 1/2" seam allowances are included.  The "keyhole" front opening can be left unfinished or finished with either a tiny hem or zig-zag.

In order for the pattern sheets to print out, instead of a miniature version of the pattern on one 8 1/2" by 11" sheet, I selected the "poster" option.

www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/clothing/cute-top-with-key...

 

It was simple to sew and fun to experiment with different looks.  I made three tops from this pattern!  It provides a nice silhouette that flares out gradually at the sides. However, I had to take in the lower portion, below my hips, to reduce the sideways extension.

The first (right) and third versions (left) of this top were sewn with fabric remnants of previous projects. 

First version (right and my least favorite): matte jersey from a knit dress in my previous review.
 
Second version (center, fabric cut on the bias): A colorful charmeuse or satiny type of polyester designed by "Suede Says" 

Third version (left, fabric cut on the bias to strategically get the pattern pieces to fit): A stretch cotton that was used in a Simplicity cropped jacket and a Vogue peplum top. 



On my first version, I cut the "ellipse" or "oval" exactly as marked by the size "12".  The size of the cutout was not flattering on me, emphasizing my bust. The keyhole "cutout" came out surprisingly larger using the given cutting lines.  After my efforts in stitching a tiny top-stitched hem, I obtained what I call a lopsided and "wavy" ellipse. One tug below the bust can be quite a revelation... I did not like the way it came out after a tiny top-stitched hem, resulting in what I call a lopsided and flimsy ellipse. One tug below the bust can be quite a revelation...

I  felt "hopeful" after seeing a Helmut Lang dress on Ellen Page. It has an "asymmetrical" opening.

A 2013 Tony Ward gown with a somewhat "crescent" cutout.

I omitted the keyhole front on my second version.

Just like for my first version, I lowered the neckline 1/4" and realized later that I would have to deduct from the width as well to prevent the neckline from drooping forward. I decided to keep the neckline intact as I did in my third or "botanically printed" version, which worked fine.

 I wore this just recently at our annual local county fair.  It was a very bright and warm Tuesday at the Del Mar Fairgrounds.

Other Pattern Alterations/Modifications 

*For all three tops, I used my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waistline. 

* I bound the edges with 3 bias strips (bands) that were cut from the same fabric with a 1 1/2" in width, so that one that will be long enough to encircle the neckline, and two will be long enough to encircle each of the armscyes. While stretching the bias strip a little, I pinned the "right" or visible side of each strip to the inside along the corresponding edge.

* After the stitching the right side of one strip to the inside, approximately 1/8" from the edge of the neckline or an armscye, stopping a few stitches before and after a reference point (such as the center back of the neckline and the upper part of the side seam for the armscye), I stitched the seam of the "band", trimmed the excess length, and resumed stitching the rest of the "band" to the edge of the neckline or the armscye.

*I turned the strip to the outside, tucked under the raw edge just above the seam allowance, folded and pressed down to the desired width of the "band" so that it covers the seam stitches. Then I top-stitched near the edge of the folded edge of the "band".


Here is my third version (my favorite) from this free pattern, made from a fabric remnant of two previous projects (a Simplicity jacket and a Vogue peplum top).
The keyhole had a tendency to stretch out (as evident in my first top in the leopard print). So for the third version, I cut a much smaller "ellipse" or "oval" because I was not thrilled about the original size (less flattering on me) on the leopard printed knit. Top-stitching is not enough, there should be a better way to "bind" the edges to prevent gaposis.

Conclusion:
Convenient pattern to use with fabric remnants that are at least 3/4 yard. You could even squeeze a top from slightly less material depending on your pattern placement. 

At one of the fair indoor exhibits, my daughter Heather being cool in this "Monopoly" race car (there is no "GO" for this vehicle) before having our yearly fried kool-aid indulgence at the fair.

Having some Fun-opoly 

Jersey Girls and Double Knit

From 1969, Misses' Dress in Three Versions for Knits and Jersey Only: A-line dress, with long or short set-in sleeves, has center back zipper. Long sleeved dress has collar included in neck facing seam and faced front opening turned back. Dress, with square neckline in front, has faced and interfaced neck and faced sleeves. High neck dress has faced neck and sleeves.  

 

Also from 1969, wearing Ringo, Paul, George, and John wearing some funky collars in front of a Rolls

Fabric Used: First version in a zig-zag printed rayon jersey and second version in a leopard printed matte jersey, both purchased from fabricmart.com

If you are interested, more photos and information in my "retro" blog:
Retro Specs

Missed the Twist

I sewed a top from this pattern before my "lipstick tubes-printed" top from Kwik Sew 2694.

 

Sizing:  Misses XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.  

Fabric : A  French soft "stylized knit" from EOS.  As a quick fix for a very low neckline, I tacked the center 2" above the "twist".

Instructions They are understandable as typical of a Kwik Sew pattern.  As usual the diagrams nicely supplement already the straightforward instructions.  



Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that it was simple to sew and that the twist top style seems to be here to stay. The things that I am not fond of are the truly low depth of the neckline and the potential of the neckline hem showing at the "twist" (which can be resolved by self-facing the upper or bodice portion of the fronts. I was hoping that the neckline would be at an appropriate level to obviate the need for a tank or camisole underneath. To avoid indecent exposure, I had to tack the neckline 2 inches above the "twist", which also resulted in bringing upper sleeve seams "inward", thus narrowing the upper front.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
I performed my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing the upper back by taking out 3/8' from the center back seam tapering to 0" above the waist.

Future Plans/Recommendations
I am not sure if I will sew this pattern again. 

I prefer Butterick 5283 (already OOP)

 

 

  and Jalie 2788 twist tops.

 

However, this Kwik Sew top makes a nice quick gratification project and can easily be a TNT after making any necessary customized alterations.  

Conclusion: I wish I had read Margaret's review (from patternreview.com) that nicely detailed raising the neckline and the under bust.

Come Pep-tember with Vogue 8815

Peplum tops are still trending on-line and off-line.

A DKNY silk/elastane top from Saksfifthavenue.com

 

Three months ago at a local Macy's, Heather posing next to a cats-printed top with a price tag of $150, if I recall correctly.

Vogue 8815:
Misses' fitted tops with raised waist and hem-line variations, narrow hem. I sewed view "B" with the nearly elbow-length sleeves and back zipper. 
I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips.

 

 

Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like that the peplum is proportional with respect to the bodice and how it appears on my figure. The peplum neither hugs my hips nor extensively "flares out".   Using a print, I did not notice if there was something strange about the top tips of the vertical bust darts. The upper back edge of the top comes somewhat high at the neckline. As for the front and back bodice, I did not need to make my usual petite adjustment at the waist. So, if you are not short-waisted as myself, you might have to lengthen the bodice. 

I used a  cotton twill from a previous project.

 

From 2 years ago,  a Simplicity 2373 cropped jacket in the same fabric.

Two months ago, I sewed a peplum top sewn New Look 6130.  I really did not like this top on me.  The front neckline was loose and although the peplum skirt looked lovely on the model, I did not like it that much on me.

 

Now "back" to Vogue 8815:

Alterations/Modifications
*Narrowed the upper back from the center /3/8", tapering to 0" above the waistline

*Shorened the sleeves nearly 2 1/2" because the original length did not seem to be flattering.

* There was quite a bit of tease when attaching the sleeves. I removed at most nearly 1" from the top edge of each sleeve head.

*To finish the neckline and lower edge of the peplum, I used lace hem tape which worked so well with this nearly circular type of hem. I sewed one edge of the lace at a 1.4" seam allowance to the right side of the edge and turned it over and tucking beneath prior to top-stitching. I did not experience the "crinkled hem" that I typically experience from folding a narrow hem and top-stitching.

 
Future Plans/Recommendations:
My fear of making and wearing peplums has dissippated! I can see why this top has become a favorite at patternreview.com.

 

This MSGM top from farfetch.com looks very much like view "B" from Vogue 8815, except that the peplum appears shorter.

Happy Mother's Day and Happy Sewing!

Some "Kwik" Cosmetic Sew-gery

I purchased at the McCalls pattern website on sale before they became discontinued.

Desccription
"Misses close-fitting pullover tops have deep V-neckline, overlapped front, and neckline edge finished with narrow hem.  View A has three-quarter length sleeves.  View B has empire waist

nd short sleeves."  The sizes are XS-S-M-L-XL.

I anticipate close-fitting to be "tight" especially with the type of knit I used and Kwik Sew's recommended 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance (I prefer sewing a 1/2"-5/8" seam allowance), and I don't feel comfortable wearing body-hugging outfits.  I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.

 

Note the  adjective "deep" in boldface.  On me, it came "very" deep...

Instructions
They were direct, clear, and so were the diagrams. All come in a convenient, brochure style page (front and back), folded in thirds.

 I also liked the "recommended sewing procedures" or some helpful tips that came after the layout diagrams and before the instructions for both views.   Such tips include the types of thread (cotton or synthetic), types of needle (11/75 or 12/80 ballpoints), and types of stitches (reverse cycle, zig zag, straight stitch, serger/overlock).


Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like the classic front cross-over style at the bust and the empire seam that came about 2" above my waistline, thus evading a "matronly" style.  My only reservations are the really low neckline (serious competition with typical Burda patterns).   I wish I had lengthened the top 1" at the lower edge.  So if you are not short-waisted, you might have to watch for the length. There is nothing really much to dislike about this pattern.  See the 100 + reviews for yourself on Patternreview.com!


Fabric Used:
"Just Cavalli" signature knit jersey with arrays of lipsticks...

Alterations
* 3/4" petite adjustment at the adjustment line
* narrow the upper back 3/8" from center back seam (3/4" width)
* tack the center front to prevent some "indecent exposure"

Recommendations
 Yes. I am planning to sew more and I highly recommend this top for its faux wrap style that flatters every figure and for its simplicity in construction.  I can easily imagine this as a quick gratification project.

Definitely sew this one, if you have this pattern and have not tried it.  Before you know it, you will want MORE than one...

Thank you for visiting!

Going Mod-Quad-ic

I added this simply mod-ilicious 37-year old pattern to my wishlist three years ago, found it last year and just sewed view "A" recently. 

I took a chance on an ITY jersey (from fabricmart.com) with some seemingly random and massive print:

 

If you are interested in my mod-venture with this classic Butterick, here's a link to my retro blog post.

Update: 5/4/13:
Look what I found! The R & M Richardson dress from bonton.com with a print that somewhat resembles mine, except it has triangles and I have circles. It was the closest I discovered after some random on-line surfing on the net.

Happy Sewing!

Third Tie Around with Butterick 5859

My addiction to Butterick 5859 returned recently. 

 

Original post with my first and second versions:
http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/03/double-bow-talks-with-dose-of-butterick.html

The only changes from my previous versions were using a viscose woven and cutting the front and back on the bias.


A small sample of my fabric purchases earlier this year: 

Using the "French navy/latte woodcut design viscose woven", I sewed my third version of Butterick 5859:

 

Second and first versions made a month ago:

 After sewing three of these, it probably would have been more efficient for me to stitch one edge (unnotched) of the collar portion of the tie to the neckline before stitching the tie/bow ends while the collar is folded in half lengthwise, right sides together, leaving the collar open between the clipped and reinforced slits (marked circles).  By transposing these two steps, I could more accurately gauge where I would start stitching the tie/bow seam allowance:  at the point where the collar portion meets the little turned-in topstitched hem (center front) that will eventually be covered by the bow.

There is quite a bit of "fluttering" at the sleeves.

After 6 class periods and a department meeting, be prepared for a "hair-ricane" and some "o"-lectric shock.  Also getting only a few hours of sleep after providing my daughter with some guidance for her 4th grade project did not help. 

At the front garden, Mission San Diego de Alcala on a Saturday afternoon.

Heather's project (I helped with the triangular prisms, the little flower pots made out of soda caps or glue stick caps covered with modeling clay, toothpicks).  Before the structures, she started with pieces of cardboard and glued "expired" pieces of macaroni pasta shells onto some rectangular cardboard pieces.  I would not have the patience to do that.  The chapel consists of a Twix candy box originally purchased at Costco, stuffed with scraps of fabric to give it some weight, and covered with white construction paper.  The bell tower consists of  clay, foam board squares, a former Trader Joe chocolate chip pringle-style cookie container, and for the lower structure was a former Starbucks box with little packets of chocolate mix.  The convento or monastery, currently a reliquary museum, was originally a larger U.S.Postal priority box also covered with construction paper.

 

More photos from different angles in the photostream.