Day-To-Night

Pattern Description/Sizing 
 "This sleeveless top has a drape front neckline which drapes elegantly at the front, making this top perfect for a dinner out or for clubbing all night long! But as well as being great for night time, this top is elegant and great for daytime at the office...

... Make it in a soft rayon jersey in a color that suits you well for an elegant look or make it in a fun print or a shiny fabric for a night on the town. The back neckline and armholes can either be finished with Fold Over Elastic or invisible elastic." The pattern ranges from a XS to a 4XL. I sewed a "M" at the shoulders and arms, tapering to a "L" at the hips. The pattern does not include seam allowances.  I purchased this pattern download at patternreview.com


Fabric Used: First version (dress): Soft (rayon?) jersey with red/aqua animal print from emmaonesock.com.   I was able to extract a dress from this pattern and a sleeveless top (from a "retro" pattern) using 2 yards of this fabric. 

Animal prints or safari inspired prints seem to continue trending. Speaking of multi-colored animal prints, here's a dress from designer Faviana.

Second version (top): Silk twill from gorgeousfabrics.com.  Because I cut the top on the bias grain, it is roomier than the photo suggests. Also, I noticed that the shoulder area behaves differently than that on the knit.  I actually prefer the "cutaway" shoulder style on me.

A JS Boutique "cutaway shoulder"dress from Nordstrom:

 



 On the topic of "polygons": 

From Dillards, a draped front top with smaller hexagons.

 I recently tried on a knit mock wrap dress in an octagonal print.  The wrap portion was higher than usual, which did not work out well on my short-waisted torso.

 

(More)

 Now "back" to the main topic of discussion, Maria's pattern:

 

Pattern Instructions 
They were written well accompanied by helpful photos, especially those for (1) pattern cutting and assembling the pieces, for (2) attaching the fold-over and the invisible elastic to finish the neckline and armscyes and (3) sewing the shoulder seams showing the placement of the front facing folded "behind" the back piece. I like Maria's use of photos of the actual construction of the top.


Favorite Features 
I can only rave about the ease of construction (only two main pattern pieces, front with draped facing and back formed by only 8 sheets (2 x 4) of the printed pattern taped together) and the "instant" chic of this top. Draped necklines are here to stay. In terms of the fit, it is one of the most figure flattering tops that I have made. 


Modifications/alterations:
First version:

 

*I lengthened the top to a dress. 

*The back was narrow enough for me to omit my usual modification in the upper back.

 *Instead of using foldover or invisible elastic, I cut a rectangular strip of the same fabric that is 1 1/2" wide and 9 1/4" long to bind the armscyes. The length might change depending on the type of knit you use. For the back of the neckline, I was able to top-stitch a 3/8" wide hem. 

 Second version: 

 

 * I cut the fabric along the bias. I attached a band along the lower edge (after removing 1 1/2" from the edge of the blouse) 

 *I used bias strips cut from the same fabric to bind the neck and armscyes. The method I used is identical to the one used in a review (just before this one) of three tops from another downloadable pattern. 




*I also sewed the sides in French seams

For both versions: *I made my usual petite adjustment of 3/4" at the waistline. 


Future Plans/Recommendations  
I don't think I will "retire" this pattern yet.  This pattern fits the bill for a quick gratification project and ideal for fabric remnants.  I highly recommend it all levels of sewists, especially to those who are new with knits.

Update: July 8:
I made version #3 in a Just Cavalli silk charmeuse from EOS.

 

I searched the web and found a $660 valued skirt in identical fabric on ebay.

I cut the two pieces on the bias.

Three Tops from a Freebie Two-Piece Pattern

Here is a free, downloadable pattern for a two-piece sleeveless top (can be easily converted to a dress by adding length) with a "keyhole" front opening. I would describe the top/dress having more of an "elliptical cutout" above the bust.

It comes in a misses' 6-8-10-12. 

No instructions are included, just the 12 pattern sheets in a PDF format to be taped together. 1/2" seam allowances are included.  The "keyhole" front opening can be left unfinished or finished with either a tiny hem or zig-zag.

In order for the pattern sheets to print out, instead of a miniature version of the pattern on one 8 1/2" by 11" sheet, I selected the "poster" option.

www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/clothing/cute-top-with-key...

 

It was simple to sew and fun to experiment with different looks.  I made three tops from this pattern!  It provides a nice silhouette that flares out gradually at the sides. However, I had to take in the lower portion, below my hips, to reduce the sideways extension.

The first (right) and third versions (left) of this top were sewn with fabric remnants of previous projects. 

First version (right and my least favorite): matte jersey from a knit dress in my previous review.
 
Second version (center, fabric cut on the bias): A colorful charmeuse or satiny type of polyester designed by "Suede Says" 

Third version (left, fabric cut on the bias to strategically get the pattern pieces to fit): A stretch cotton that was used in a Simplicity cropped jacket and a Vogue peplum top. 



On my first version, I cut the "ellipse" or "oval" exactly as marked by the size "12".  The size of the cutout was not flattering on me, emphasizing my bust. The keyhole "cutout" came out surprisingly larger using the given cutting lines.  After my efforts in stitching a tiny top-stitched hem, I obtained what I call a lopsided and "wavy" ellipse. One tug below the bust can be quite a revelation... I did not like the way it came out after a tiny top-stitched hem, resulting in what I call a lopsided and flimsy ellipse. One tug below the bust can be quite a revelation...

I  felt "hopeful" after seeing a Helmut Lang dress on Ellen Page. It has an "asymmetrical" opening.

A 2013 Tony Ward gown with a somewhat "crescent" cutout.

I omitted the keyhole front on my second version.

Just like for my first version, I lowered the neckline 1/4" and realized later that I would have to deduct from the width as well to prevent the neckline from drooping forward. I decided to keep the neckline intact as I did in my third or "botanically printed" version, which worked fine.

 I wore this just recently at our annual local county fair.  It was a very bright and warm Tuesday at the Del Mar Fairgrounds.

Other Pattern Alterations/Modifications 

*For all three tops, I used my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waistline. 

* I bound the edges with 3 bias strips (bands) that were cut from the same fabric with a 1 1/2" in width, so that one that will be long enough to encircle the neckline, and two will be long enough to encircle each of the armscyes. While stretching the bias strip a little, I pinned the "right" or visible side of each strip to the inside along the corresponding edge.

* After the stitching the right side of one strip to the inside, approximately 1/8" from the edge of the neckline or an armscye, stopping a few stitches before and after a reference point (such as the center back of the neckline and the upper part of the side seam for the armscye), I stitched the seam of the "band", trimmed the excess length, and resumed stitching the rest of the "band" to the edge of the neckline or the armscye.

*I turned the strip to the outside, tucked under the raw edge just above the seam allowance, folded and pressed down to the desired width of the "band" so that it covers the seam stitches. Then I top-stitched near the edge of the folded edge of the "band".


Here is my third version (my favorite) from this free pattern, made from a fabric remnant of two previous projects (a Simplicity jacket and a Vogue peplum top).
The keyhole had a tendency to stretch out (as evident in my first top in the leopard print). So for the third version, I cut a much smaller "ellipse" or "oval" because I was not thrilled about the original size (less flattering on me) on the leopard printed knit. Top-stitching is not enough, there should be a better way to "bind" the edges to prevent gaposis.

Conclusion:
Convenient pattern to use with fabric remnants that are at least 3/4 yard. You could even squeeze a top from slightly less material depending on your pattern placement. 

At one of the fair indoor exhibits, my daughter Heather being cool in this "Monopoly" race car (there is no "GO" for this vehicle) before having our yearly fried kool-aid indulgence at the fair.

Having some Fun-opoly 

Jersey Girls and Double Knit

From 1969, Misses' Dress in Three Versions for Knits and Jersey Only: A-line dress, with long or short set-in sleeves, has center back zipper. Long sleeved dress has collar included in neck facing seam and faced front opening turned back. Dress, with square neckline in front, has faced and interfaced neck and faced sleeves. High neck dress has faced neck and sleeves.  

 

Also from 1969, wearing Ringo, Paul, George, and John wearing some funky collars in front of a Rolls

Fabric Used: First version in a zig-zag printed rayon jersey and second version in a leopard printed matte jersey, both purchased from fabricmart.com

If you are interested, more photos and information in my "retro" blog:
Retro Specs

Missed the Twist

I sewed a top from this pattern before my "lipstick tubes-printed" top from Kwik Sew 2694.

 

Sizing:  Misses XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.  

Fabric : A  French soft "stylized knit" from EOS.  As a quick fix for a very low neckline, I tacked the center 2" above the "twist".

Instructions They are understandable as typical of a Kwik Sew pattern.  As usual the diagrams nicely supplement already the straightforward instructions.  



Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that it was simple to sew and that the twist top style seems to be here to stay. The things that I am not fond of are the truly low depth of the neckline and the potential of the neckline hem showing at the "twist" (which can be resolved by self-facing the upper or bodice portion of the fronts. I was hoping that the neckline would be at an appropriate level to obviate the need for a tank or camisole underneath. To avoid indecent exposure, I had to tack the neckline 2 inches above the "twist", which also resulted in bringing upper sleeve seams "inward", thus narrowing the upper front.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
I performed my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing the upper back by taking out 3/8' from the center back seam tapering to 0" above the waist.

Future Plans/Recommendations
I am not sure if I will sew this pattern again. 

I prefer Butterick 5283 (already OOP)

 

 

  and Jalie 2788 twist tops.

 

However, this Kwik Sew top makes a nice quick gratification project and can easily be a TNT after making any necessary customized alterations.  

Conclusion: I wish I had read Margaret's review (from patternreview.com) that nicely detailed raising the neckline and the under bust.

Come Pep-tember with Vogue 8815

Peplum tops are still trending on-line and off-line.

A DKNY silk/elastane top from Saksfifthavenue.com

 

Three months ago at a local Macy's, Heather posing next to a cats-printed top with a price tag of $150, if I recall correctly.

Vogue 8815:
Misses' fitted tops with raised waist and hem-line variations, narrow hem. I sewed view "B" with the nearly elbow-length sleeves and back zipper. 
I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips.

 

 

Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like that the peplum is proportional with respect to the bodice and how it appears on my figure. The peplum neither hugs my hips nor extensively "flares out".   Using a print, I did not notice if there was something strange about the top tips of the vertical bust darts. The upper back edge of the top comes somewhat high at the neckline. As for the front and back bodice, I did not need to make my usual petite adjustment at the waist. So, if you are not short-waisted as myself, you might have to lengthen the bodice. 

I used a  cotton twill from a previous project.

 

From 2 years ago,  a Simplicity 2373 cropped jacket in the same fabric.

Two months ago, I sewed a peplum top sewn New Look 6130.  I really did not like this top on me.  The front neckline was loose and although the peplum skirt looked lovely on the model, I did not like it that much on me.

 

Now "back" to Vogue 8815:

Alterations/Modifications
*Narrowed the upper back from the center /3/8", tapering to 0" above the waistline

*Shorened the sleeves nearly 2 1/2" because the original length did not seem to be flattering.

* There was quite a bit of tease when attaching the sleeves. I removed at most nearly 1" from the top edge of each sleeve head.

*To finish the neckline and lower edge of the peplum, I used lace hem tape which worked so well with this nearly circular type of hem. I sewed one edge of the lace at a 1.4" seam allowance to the right side of the edge and turned it over and tucking beneath prior to top-stitching. I did not experience the "crinkled hem" that I typically experience from folding a narrow hem and top-stitching.

 
Future Plans/Recommendations:
My fear of making and wearing peplums has dissippated! I can see why this top has become a favorite at patternreview.com.

 

This MSGM top from farfetch.com looks very much like view "B" from Vogue 8815, except that the peplum appears shorter.

Happy Mother's Day and Happy Sewing!

Some "Kwik" Cosmetic Sew-gery

I purchased at the McCalls pattern website on sale before they became discontinued.

Desccription
"Misses close-fitting pullover tops have deep V-neckline, overlapped front, and neckline edge finished with narrow hem.  View A has three-quarter length sleeves.  View B has empire waist

nd short sleeves."  The sizes are XS-S-M-L-XL.

I anticipate close-fitting to be "tight" especially with the type of knit I used and Kwik Sew's recommended 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance (I prefer sewing a 1/2"-5/8" seam allowance), and I don't feel comfortable wearing body-hugging outfits.  I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.

 

Note the  adjective "deep" in boldface.  On me, it came "very" deep...

Instructions
They were direct, clear, and so were the diagrams. All come in a convenient, brochure style page (front and back), folded in thirds.

 I also liked the "recommended sewing procedures" or some helpful tips that came after the layout diagrams and before the instructions for both views.   Such tips include the types of thread (cotton or synthetic), types of needle (11/75 or 12/80 ballpoints), and types of stitches (reverse cycle, zig zag, straight stitch, serger/overlock).


Favorite and Not-Sew-Favorite Features
I like the classic front cross-over style at the bust and the empire seam that came about 2" above my waistline, thus evading a "matronly" style.  My only reservations are the really low neckline (serious competition with typical Burda patterns).   I wish I had lengthened the top 1" at the lower edge.  So if you are not short-waisted, you might have to watch for the length. There is nothing really much to dislike about this pattern.  See the 100 + reviews for yourself on Patternreview.com!


Fabric Used:
"Just Cavalli" signature knit jersey with arrays of lipsticks...

Alterations
* 3/4" petite adjustment at the adjustment line
* narrow the upper back 3/8" from center back seam (3/4" width)
* tack the center front to prevent some "indecent exposure"

Recommendations
 Yes. I am planning to sew more and I highly recommend this top for its faux wrap style that flatters every figure and for its simplicity in construction.  I can easily imagine this as a quick gratification project.

Definitely sew this one, if you have this pattern and have not tried it.  Before you know it, you will want MORE than one...

Thank you for visiting!