Stripe Out with Kwik Sew 4189

I cut and sewed a top that took an entire evening last night.


Up until then the most recent garment I sewed, was my daughter's pants from Butterick 3460 (I added a lining beneath the slightly transparent woven) this past August.




 After her pants, I did not get a chance to complete my "summer sewing" wish list.  Now that I have this Thanksgiving week off,  I decided to squeeze in some sewing, starting with a top from Kwik Sew 4189.

"Fitted, pullover tops have angled waist seams on front and back with shaped bottom edges and full-length sleeves. A: narrow hemmed scooped neckline. B: Cowl neck collar. I sewed view "B", the one with the cowl neck" in a medium.

Instructions
The clear instructions accompanied with clear illustrated diagrams, being typical for a Kwik Sew pattern. The instructions for view "B" borrows heavily from view "A", except for the finish of the neckline.

Responses to Pattern
The "angled" or what I call "diagonal" waist seam was flattering and seemed to produce a "slimming" effect.

This was one easy gratification project. I was able to cut and sew this top in one entire evening. 

Fabric: A cotton knit jersey from Le Wal Marche or what my husband refers to as "Wally's" for $3.74 a yard.
 
Alterations/Modificatons
* Since I was working with a knit, I sewed ths sleeves in "flat", before sewing the sleeve and side seams. The instructions ask for the sewing the side seams and easing the sleeve into the armscyes.

*Performed my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waist

* Narrowed the upper center back 3/4" as well as the cowl neck piece from the fold line at the center. 

Pattern Revisitation/Recommendation:                                                      With the cooler temperatures approaching, I have another cowl neck planned with a more stable knit from my stash.

I definitely recommend not only for the simplicity of construction, but also for the distinctive flair added by the "angled" waist seam and the asymmetrical hem of the lower front and back. 

 

A VENUS dot com sweater with a cowl neck, but with no angled front and back seams

Armed and Thready with Kwik Sew 4207

"Mom, being trendy with the cold-shoulder look, huh?" "Might as well again!"
 My daughter was referring to a top I wore today from Kwik Sews 4207, that I purchased from the BMV website along with other goodies.

 
"Misses' Tops: Pullover tops have scoop neckline with neck binding and stitched hems. A: Patch pocket. B: Cold shoulder sleeve."   Sizing: Misses' XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a "M".

The directions were clear and concise with each step accompanied by a diagram (typical of a Kwik Sew). There are also convenient sewing procedures to finish the edges of the garment as applicable to standard sewing machines and sergers. The sleeves are stitched flat before the side seams. Besides the user-friendly instructions, I like the flattering fit, scoop neckline, and the ease to sew the entire top.
 
I sewed view "B".  The 2-way knit jerseyfabric is a remnant of a long-sleeved top from New Look 6735.

 

It is essential to match the "dots" of the "capless" sleeve to the corresponding ones at the armscye endpoints to create the two similar "openings" at the upper arms. There is a 5/8" hem to be folded under for the armhole (lower edge for the attached sleeve and the upper portion where there is no sleeve) pressed and top-stitched, forgoing need bind the armhole with a strip of fabric as what I did in Simplicity 8337.

From youtube, here's a link for a tutorial for binding a knit neckline, by Fashion Behind The Seams.  This is the best tutorial of the slick method I have been using for years.
Useful, detailed tutorial to bind a neck neckline





Modifications/Alterations
* 3/4" petite waist adjustment
*Narrow the upper back 1/2"
* Due to fabric constraints (the fabric was a remnant from a previous top), I cut two back pieces to add a center-back seam.





Kwik Sew 4207 is nicely drafted.  It has a potential to be a reliable standard as a springboard for customization: "pattern hacking" to create a variety of styles.  I definitely plan to sew with this pattern again and already will be my "go-to" pattern for those quick sewing gratification moments. 

Thread-y To Sew Again!

So my last two posts here were on October 3, 2016 and January 2, 2016?  It is about time to return to the "machine".


To fill in the juncture from January to October 2016: 
 

June 2016: my husband, daughter and myself during a little walking tour in Högsby, Sweden (population: 1,881) where my in-laws reside.  Hmmm, traffic, what traffic, except the three of us!  Click, for a caption containing more information of our neighborhood hike.

 
  

I realized that in all the photos here (except for the top left that contains 4 photos put together of my daughter and my husband and the photo after a piece of paper), I wore what I had sewn:
                                                                                                                       
 
Photo recap of 2016:
I am clueless as to what algorithm "The Book of Face" uses to generate this collage of memories of 2016.  I wish that it included more photos from family outings.  I occasionally upload photos of adventures during our vacations, trips to the amusement parts, annual car shows, concerts, and educational venues.  Also there are family milestones, Jude Law fan pics, YouTube song flashbacks, and silly math puns.  You may send a friend request if you like and you don't have to worry about me "cluttering" your news feeds since I post sparingly. 



****Now, back to being SEW-spicious! *****

From last month, the merry month of May: 

This pattern has been my stash for some time now.  The only changes I made were lengthening the sleeves, my usual 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist.  I have been using what I now call the "stitch-the-strip-from-the-inside-and-turn-to-the-outside-and-top-stitch" method to bind the neckline, thanks to a fellow sewist (I don't think she has been on Pattern Review for years).  This method (plethora are available on-line) always works like a charm for me. 

 

I wore it the next day at work and received some sweet compliments from the students.

Summer Sewing Plan 2017:This bunch purchased from sales at the Butterick-McCall's-Vogue website (except for the Pamela top) with the BMV member discount.  The money saved is offset by the shipping charges. :-(

 

 Style inspiration: Daisy Fuentes wearing her top for HSN, $59.90.  The "cold-shoulder" or what I refer to as the "bare-upper-arm" style is TOTALLY trending (again). 

 

My first pattern from my summer plan, Simplicity 8337, in particular, view "B", with the cut-out sleeves. This pattern appears to have a myriad of possibilities!

I have sewn sleeves with "split" openings along the arms, but this is the first time to sew a "bare-the-upper-arm-look" ("cold-shoulder").  It only took one evening, despite my ineptitude with binding the sleeves. 

 

 

Modifications/Adjustments: 

•  "Rounded" the neckline ( "v" to a "U")
•   Eliminated the center seam so as not to "break" the print
•   My usual 3/4" petite adjustment at the waistline
•   Inadvertently "relaxed" the lower edge of the upper arm keyhole openings (upper edge of the attached sleeve). Somehow, silly me missed making the cuts at the "pivot" points at the sleeve/armhole junctions before attaching the binding strips cut from the same fabric. 
• Since the top seemed voluminous, I went down a size and took in an additional 3/8" at the sides (I could have simply used a "S" at the sides and a "M" at the shoulders).   The body measurements can give you a better idea of what size to use as a base.

 

If time permits to revisit this pattern, I would try the sleeveless, front-flounced top, view "A" . The style options are endless.  This is a simple pattern that could be customized with trim, varying sleeve lengths, neck depths, dress lengths, and more.  Nevertheless, this is a simple pattern.  However, I find that a "split-style" flatters me more than the drop-style of the sleeves of Simplicity 8337. 

A flashback from July 2012, a draped front top Butterick 5645, in which I closed the split-sleeve with a little seam at the lower edge, to create a "cut-out" shoulder style.

 


I like this bell-sleeved top from Vince Camuto, also available on HSN, for $89.00.

 

 

Double Take with New Look (6402)

I could not believe it has been "sew" long from my last post!  I took a few days from my 2-week fall vacation (our school district had "fall intermission" during our year-round calendar) to sew a few items.  New Look 6402 (re-issue of an earlier pattern) struck my fancy, in particular views "A" and "C".  For both tops, I sewed a "M" at the shoulders tapering to a "L" at the hips and VERY easy to whip up.

Fabrics: the sleeveless (view "C") in a knit "refashioned" from the lower part of a maxi-dress (that did not fit) purchased on-line from Venus.com and the long-sleeved one in an "Italian streaky psychedelic viscose lycra knit" (a soft, drapy knit) purchased from EmmaOneSock.com.  I had a feeling that the maxi dress on clearance (also non-returnable) would not fit being a small (the "M" and "L" sizes were out of stock).  Once I received it and tried it on, no luck! I put it aside and hope to "modify" it later into a wearable garment for myself.   

 

The directions are sufficient if you are familiar with sewing basic tops.  I did my typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline.  


My first version of New Look 6402, view "A" with the long sleeves. 

 

For the sleeveless version, the lower part of the maxi dress was barely enough to accommodate the front and back of the top.  I kept the bottom hem of the dress intact.  I did not acquire the "symmetry" of the fabric print due to the dress not having it to begin with.

It seemed that the dress was sewn "against" the grain and so that sleeveless top was "fitted" as compared to the long-sleeved version.  I could have further stabilized the neckline in a strip of the same fabric as I usually do, but decided to follow the pattern directions of "turn under and stitch".

 

I sewed two other tops during my vacation, a knit draped top and a Sandra Betzina Vogue twist top 1477.  I'll post as soon I have photos taken.  

Geez, stores are already displaying Christmas/holiday items!  2016 is not done yet!!!

Mad for Galactic Plaid

Happy New Year to You All!

A quick glimpse of our 2015 year in review.  


Heather is now on her second semester of 7th grade.  I will be "50" this year.  My husband and I will be married 17 years.  Thank you to those who have known and supported me in PR and the blogging world for nearly a decade. Where did all the time go?

After a nearly 2-month sewing "dry spell" (occurred after sewing my daughter's "Starbucks" apron for Halloween), my "sewing mojo" returned that enabled me to sew two twist tops from Burda 6911. I wore this second version today on a lunch date with my husband and it was comfortable. 

Pattern Description:
"Sophisticated, entwined front parts give both the shirt and the dress a special look. The bi-elastic jersey provides shape retention and a perfect fit. The dress has got a flared skirt with nicely draped panels."

Pattern Sizing: 
Misses' 8-20 I sewed a "12" at the shoulders tapering to a "14" at the hips.  

 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? 
Yes. Since I did not use a softer knit, the twist portion for my top had more bulk and hence, the fabric below the twist did not drape freely. You can achieve the fit you want by a change in the stretch of the fabric. Mine was form fitted due to the stability of the knit.  

Fabric Used: A poly/lycra knit from EOS. 

  
Following Directions
I thought they were fine especially with the accompanying diagrams.  I have read about how tricky the "twist" step can be and resolved myself to take my time and study the diagrams thoroughly.

The diagrams clearly show the appearance of the front facing after folding the fabric edge towards the inside along the fold lines, and where to stitch the lower bust seam after folding the front until it matches the "curved" lower edge. Each front seems like one enormous "blob".  But once I studied carefully the diagrams that show "which goes where", it was easy to figure out where the side seams will be after matching the markings (they pinpoint where the "gap" or opening through which the wearer's left front fabric piece passes through forming the "twist".

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Not much the pattern, but more of the fabric's characteristics.  A knit with more drape would lessen the "bulk" of the twist at the center front and some odd type of puffy protrusion below my bust.


Alterations/Modifications
* Petite alteration of 3/4" at the waistline; 

* Used a large safety pin to "thread" left (wearer's) piece through the gap formed by the lower bust seam of the front right piece. 

*Sewed the sleeves "flat" (before sewing the side seams) instead of setting them in per the directions.

 Conclusion: 
I would sew another one or two, but not in the immediate future.  I am still going through my pattern and fabric stash!

Once I studied carefully the layout of the front pieces and figured how it correlates to the diagrams (they became clear after looking at them for some time), this top is really easy to sew.   

Ever since we saw the new STAR WARS movie, the print of this fabric reminds of "light sabers galore". Go figure what two words are inscribed in my hoop earrings. Happy Sewing!


Have a wonderful holiday season.  Best wishes for 2016. 

 

Simplicit-tea and a Starbuck-etful of Seasonal Sweets

From 2006 to 2011 (age 3 to 9 years), I have faithfully sewn Heather's costumes for Halloween.  In 2012, I purchased a "Little Red Riding Hood" costume from "Party City", in 2013,  a "Bat Girl" t-shirt dress from "Hot Topic" (sequined cape was sewn) and last year, a jacket and pants from "Forever 21" for her "Tris Prior" of "Divergent" look. 

 

This year, she asked me to create a Starbucks barista apron. The cap is purchased at Amazon, and happened to be a close math to the color of her apron. 

i used Simplicity 1240 that contains apron patterns sized for adults, children and even for dolls!  I sewed a misses' "S" for my 12-year-old daughter.

I used view "A" as the principal pattern coupled with the upper band of view "B".   We used iron transfer paper specifically for ink-jet printers to apply the logo to the bodice and omitted the ruffles on the lower edge. 

 

Directions:  They were easy to follow especially if I had adhered to one view. I used the pieces of view "A" and the top portion of the bodice of view "B". This is really an easy, but slightly time consuming pattern due to hemming the lower edge of a-line garment and along the left and right back edges. My arms got a good workout from not "pumping iron", but from "iron pressing". The weight of the fabric did not allow for the straps to be sewn at one edge and turned "inside out". So I followed the directions to sew a small top stitched hem at each edge (after lots of iron pressing for the hems to sew flat nicely).  

 

 

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Things: The apron had a nice silhouette. My daughter mentioned that the apron looked more like a "party dress" (being a-line) than a work apron. I told her that her Starbucks apron is customized for her and meant to not look exactly look like the actual ones worn by the employees. But it did make customers and the young lady at the register of a local Starbucks give us a double take as we walked into the cafe. There was nothing really to dislike because this is a nice basic apron. 

Fabric Used: JoAnn's woven with cotton blend, medium weight.

Modfiications/Alterations:   

I sewed view "A" without the neckline trim and replaced it with the self-faced segment and the straps that tie around the neck (instead of the straps that "criss-crossed" at the back). My daughter hoped for the hoop neck (much like the Starbucks' actual aprons), but I did not get that detail directly communicated to me. So, she was satisfied with the apron "as is". 

*Since my daughter did not want the pockets and the ruffled hem, I omitted them.

For the familiar logo, we printed it on "iron transfer paper".  

Purchased at Staples  


Recommendations/Conclusion:
I recommend this pattern as a good basic apron which is straightforward to make if you omit details such as the pockets and trim.

 

Heather collected a "Starbuck-etful" of nearly 7.5 lbs of treats on Halloween night (although she gave away the Snickers, Reeses, Milky Ways, Butterfingers, Baby Ruths, Twizzlers, and others that did not appeal to her). So I snapped quick photos with her "Starbuck-et" and a back view of her barista outfit, with wrinkles and all after her "seasonal" barista venture. 

A Tri-Wrap-Along with McCall's 7249

I found the opportunity to sew before returning to work this week after a 2 week hiatus. I was not able to find this pattern at my local JoAnn's and instead purchased one on etsy. 

Pattern Description:
MISSES' TOPS AND DRESS: Close-fitting, pullover tops and dress have gathered front overlay and stitched hems. Designed for medium-weight moderate stretch knits.

I sewed a short sleeved version of the top.  

 

Pattern Sizing:
A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22).  I sewed a "12".


Fabric Used:
Rayon/lycra knit from EOS in a vibrant "triangles" print. The split colors of the shapes make the white triangles to appear as "right-click" arrows. 


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the crossover style, which acts like figure "camouflage".

McCall's 7249 was fairly simple to construct, while paying attention to the marked circles and fold/facing lines and especially the placement of the overlays at the "V" part of the neckline to avoid the bulk after turning them to the front of the top, thus concealing the neckline seams.

"Understitching" is necessary to stabilize the overlay to the neckline after turning it from the inside to the outside of the top.  I noticed the slight "waviness" or "undulating" characteristic of the neckline as that on McCall's model on the pattern envelope.  It seemed to result from a tad of "tugging" at the gathered ends of each overlay that was extended and secured via machine basting ("crossing over") to the opposite side below the armhole.

However, there were moments when I became "twisted", prompting me to re-orient the overlays to their proper positions (with the gathered side edges of the left overlay already attached to the right side seam) before crossing the right over the left overlay.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
1.  My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waist

2.  Narrowing the upper center back 3/8" from the center

3.   Adjusted the placement of the gathered edge of each overlay on one side of the front (between two marked open circles) by adjusting the locations of those two marked open circles.  

      (a)  Raised the placement mark (open circle) from 2" to 1"  below the armscye.   This will result in raising the upper edge of the gathered side of each overlay (left, right)

       (b) Lowered the placement mark 1" for the lower gathered edge of each overlay.  The marked circle moved approximately from 4" to 3" above the lower edge of the front.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'll put a second version on hold for now.  I would recommend it, if you like this type of mock wrap style. 


Conclusion:
After patience working with the gathering, layering of fabric, and getting out of a few "tangled" moments with fabric, I am satisfied with this top. The soft rayon/lycra knit that I used made the top comfortable. 

From sundancecatalog.com, with similar styling but long-sleeved, $68.  The neckline is "wavier" than mine!: 
 http://www.sundancecatalog.com/product/55415.do?code=GGLBASE&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_keyword=Flattering+Vanessa+Tee,+Crossover+Panels,+Front+Shirring+%26+Raglan+Sleeves+T-Shirt&kpid=55415&kpid=S498191

 

Some Peppy-Lum With Vogue 9084

Peplums continue to trend (it seems that they are here to stay) and here is a rare find on the web, a top with a curved front seam from Anthropologie.  This also has an asymmetrical ("high-low" or "mullet") hem which has made a comeback and has not quite disappeared. 

When I was not able to find a particular Vogue since my local JoAnn's has not been quick in replenishing their pattern drawers with the latest McCall's (i.e. beyond the 7200's) and Vogue envelopes (i.e. beyond the 9100's) for the past month now, I discovered this Vogue (9084) and decided to sew view "A".  It has been awhile since I sewed a sleeveless top with a jewel neckline and especially one with a peplum.  What appealed to me was the "drop waist", reminiscent of the late 1980's and early 1990's dresses that I wore.

Pattern Description:  
"MISSES' TOP: Top (fitted through bust) has flounce variations, back zipper and narrow hem. C: stitched hem on sleeves. B and C: wrong side shows on shaped hemline. Purchased bias tape to finish necklines, and armholes A. FABRICS: Broadcloth, Crepe, Ponte Knit, Lightweight Denim." Views B and C have the asymmetrical flounced peplum. All views have the "drop-waist". I sewed view "A", the sleeveless version,

Pattern Sizing: Misses' 8-10-12-14-16 I sewed a "12".  

 

Fabric Used: Rayon/lycra knit from EOS in a vibrant "triangles" print.  The split colors of the shapes make the white triangles to appear as "right-click" arrows.  

 

Instructions
They were adequate and easy to follow, along with the diagrams. As for such  procedures as to apply a zipper (depending on the type you use such as invisible or standard) or to hem a circular skirt, I recommend referring to any of the plethora of useful tutorials available online or in reference books. 

Favorite/Not-So Favorite Features
I like the front and back darts for shaping. Since I am not completely sold on asymmetrical peplums or in the case of views B and C the "mullet-style" or "high-low" hems, I opted for view "A". The front and back hems of the peplum skirt are level. The back portion of the skirt is shorter, landing well below the waist, where the front portion of the skirt is longer due to the curved and higher front seam. The "high-low" seam of the bodice and the skirt along with the differing lengths of the front and back skirts with the level hem, especially seen at a side view adds an interesting dimension to the peplum. Stitching a circular hem requires patience. At times, as I experienced here, it can feel like watching paint dry.

Alterations/Modifications
*Made my typical 1" petite adjustment at the marked line. 

 *Omitted the zipper due to using a knit. 

*Instead of using bias tape as directed, I cut 1 1/2" wide strips of fabric to finish the neckline and armscyes.

 *To stabilize the lower hem, I applied some gluestick on the edges before turning in a scant hem and turning in and stitching a 5/8" hem. I also iron-pressed the edges for a smoother finish.  

 

Recommendations/Conclusion
For now, one from this pattern is sufficient. If you like this variation of a peplum, give it a try.  

I asked my very young fashion consultant (my 12 y.o. daughter, of course) if the style was "o.k." on me because I was not sure about the flounced front being suitable with my figure. She told me that I looked "hip" for a change and the skirt actually camouflaged whatever I wanted to hide. Just recently, she photographed me wearing my new top in front of one of her favorite novelty stores in downtown San Diego.