That 70's Pattern

I remember watching re-runs of the popular 60's-early 70's popular tv show, "That Girl", series when I was in grade school. I thought Ann-Marie wore the coolest clothes!

One source mentions that "That Girl" was "the groundbreaking series to realistically portray the life of a single, independent young woman" which led me to think of classic tv shows such as Mary Tyler Moore, Julia (Diahann Carroll), Alice (Linda Lavin) Profiler (Ally Walker who played Dr. Sam Waters, the psychic detective), SATC (with Jessica Parker). I cannot think of current tv shows that portray a strong woman with positive qualities. Maybe you can. TV is inundated with many 'reality' shows without substance. Do we need to see more of Tori Spelling or the Kardashian sisters, to name a few?


This 1975 pattern is the Marlo's Corner series for McCall's.

Here's some optional background music to get you into the mid-70's mood while you continue reading. One of my all-time favorites!. Check out E.J.'s lapels and sleeve caps!



Pattern Description
Set of knit coordinates: tops, skirt, and pants.

Before Lauren Hutton, Christie Brinkley, Shari Belafonte, Marie Osmond, and Brooke Shields, Marlo came out with her collection of patterns. Do you know if if there are other celebrities, if any, who preceded Marlo?

Although I am aware that not everybody sews with vintage patterns, it's fun to compare vintage and current patterns and see that most if not all current styles contain design elements from the past. The layout and presentation of the methods have changed, but the methods of constructions have not so much. Often, in working with vintage patterns, I like to adhere to the methods described. However in some instances, I prefer to use current sources to facilitate the construction.



Fabric
Poly knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. It was very nice to sew with!

Features
* Very easy to sew
* For the knit top, there were only 5 pieces to work with: front, back, sleeve, front facing, and back facing.
* Top is close fitting.
* High armscye
* There is quite a bit of ease at the sleeve caps. They seemed to drafted that way.
* Neckline is self-faced. It would be simpler to bind the neckline using a bias facing made from the same fabric or stabilize the neckline with serged finish or invisible elastic.


Directions





Directions in an easy-to-read and compact format. I like the fact that all views are easily accessible, without having to flip through several pages.



Modifications
*Omitted the back zipper. Was it possible that it was needed for the less stretchy type of knits that was used back then?

*My usual, decreasing the length from the bust to waist by 3/4". I used the printed alteration line and folded in that amount.

*Added 1" to the length, added 1/4" to the side seams.

*I sewed the sleeves flat, instead of setting them in as directed.

*I cut and sewed my own tie belt, without using the given pattern piece due to fabric constraints.


Results
I really like the pattern for the top! I like the flattering fit and plan to make more by varying the shape, width, and depth of the neckline.


I recently wore this top at work.



1975 time capsule

Now I am in the mood to sew a 70's plaid jacket!

Petals to the Metal

The pattern that I am reviewing shares the same number with an older NL pattern.

I just purchased this pattern recently with several Simplicities from JA's.



I liked the retro/classic style of the gathered front and raglan sleeves. I thought the simple style would nicely showcase the stunning embroidered eyelet flowers on off-white linen purchased from EmmaOneSock.com.


The pants come from New Look pattern 6733 made in a soft double knit fabric from FashionFabrics.com

Floral prints welcoming summer:

Generra's Eggshell Tunic for $195 from the Fashion Chateau website

Alfani blouse with multi-petaled flowers

Tory Burch's Stephanie tunic with large embroidered flowers for $395


Update May 31, 2009

After I sewed my first top, I thought I give this pattern another try! I used "A Surfeit of Suns" from Gorgeous Fabrics in a lightweight and nearly sheer 100% cotton and noticed that the top did not billow out as much as the first one. The only modification I made was lengthening the upper 3/4 sleeve by one inch and making an elastic casing, thus omitting the flounced cuffs.

Heather, Jorgen, and I will be visiting Sweden in a week and half (Heather's grandparents have not seen her in 5 years) so what better way to honor this beautiful country by wearing yellow and blue!

**************************************************
Original Review

Pattern Description
There were none, although I found "9 pieces" above the technical drawings and "misses' six sizes in one.

...why don't you turn me LOOSE, turn me loose, turn me loose, I gotta SEW it my way, or no way at all..

Here's my description: loose-fitting tops with neckline options: gathered with an elastic or ruffled, and sleeve options: long with elasticized cuffs, 3/4 with flounced cuffs, short sleeves with gathered hems, and sleeveless with ties at shoulder.


Size
Misses' size 6-16. I sewed a "12".


Time After Time
Does this top live up to its name, the 2 hour top?
Yes, it probably would have had taken 2 hours or less if I had not finished the seams, added a flounced cuff, created and attached a little bow, and fuss with fitting.


Fabric
Embroidered linen from Emma One Sock.


Features
*Gathered, rounded neckline

*Simple to sew

*Raglan sleeves, a diversion from setting in sleeves.
After creating the sleeve, I turned it inside out per directions, and attached the lower half of the armscye to that of the bodice, right sides together.

*Neckline and sleeve variations for a variety of looks

*Still loose-fitting after going down a size. I usually sew a "12" in the shoulders and "14" below the shoulders, but for this pattern I went down a size. The model of View A cinched her waist with a belt. Maybe the tops are meant to be billowy with the option to wear a belt.

*The upper sleeve was a bit wide to have a flounced cuff. The top would seem to look more proportionally balanced with the upper sleeve with the gathered bottom hem, without the flounced cuff.


Directions
If you can sew straight seams, hem, and gather, then you should encounter no problems following the steps and relying on the illustrations.

Safety Dance
I used a small safety pin to carefully insert the 1/4" wide elastic (length measured from a printed elastic guide, according to size). Silly me, before folding and stitching the neckline casing, forgot to trim the seams where each sleeve and neckline intersect to reduce the bulk and to facilitate threading the elastic. I undid the stitching at two corners, resume the threading of the safety pin with elastic, and restitched the corners.

Modifications
* Omtted the bias tape at the neckline. Instead, I turned 1/8" under and sewed a nearly 1/2" hem (7/16")

* Took out 3/4" in length between the bust and waist

* I shortened the elastic by about 3" to tighten the neckline, enough to prevent it from slipping off my shoulders.

* Instead of using a ready-made ribbon, I cut a strip of fabric, sewed lengthwise along the edge, right sides together, tied it into a bow and tacked it to the center front.

* I prefer to wear a belt to cinch the waist because the top is still somewhat loose. The one I am wearing in the photo is temporary. I am in search of a belt that has a flattering width and coordinates well with this top.



Conclusion
If I plan to sew this pattern again, I would add more contour to the side seams to reduce the billowy or tent-like look and make one in a drapier fabric and another in a solid, with different sleeve lengths.

I highly recommend this top if you like the gathered neckline style and have the patience to thread elastic through the neckline casing.

Border Ties

From July 2007, #101

This was originally one of the first Burda WOF's that I intended to sew, but did not get the chance to get to it until now. The drawstring neckline reminded me of March 2009's drawstring blouse #106, but without the button front. Here's my review.




Deja Loops
Here are the March 2009 and July 2007 Burda WOF drawstring tops alongside of each other.



Nothing Compares "2" You
July 2007
*Drawstring casing at the neckline
*Tunic style, no button closure
*Back yoke extending to the front
*Curved hemline
*Tab collar

March 2009
*Drawstring casing at the neckline
*Button closure
*No back yoke
*Front yoke
*Pointy collar


Pattern Description
"Open for new views ... This blouse in airy batiste has a gathered keyhole neckline, a narrow band collar and fashionably long sleeves."


Size
Burda 34-44. I sewed a 42 in the hips instead of a 40 due to the lack of ease in the fabric and the potential of this top to be close-fitting. I should have stuck with the 40.


Fabric
Border print fabric having a lightweight poly/rayon blend from FashionFabricsClub.com. It did not have much stretch.


Pattern Pieces
There are only 5! They are the front, back yoke (extends to the top front), back, sleeve, and tab collar. During the tracing process, I easily overlooked the two asterisks on the lower back piece that designate the start and stop points of gathering. For the drawstrings, I used two strips cut on the bias of the fabric. each with length 18" and width 3 cm. If I had kept the original depth of the neckline, I would have needed lengthen the strips.


Directions
They are satisfactory. I had to re-read them several times to ensure that I would not skip a step. It was easy to miss something due to several steps under one bullet.


Overall Features
* Simple to sew

* Drawstring neckline. Oops, silly me. My buttonhole openings on the neckline casing for the bias ties ended up being on the inside of the blouse instead of on the outside as illustrated. This works for me, since I plan to tie the ties into a bow to prevent a wardrobe malfunction, if you know what I mean.


* I agree with Christina about extra ease in the sleeve caps and the back yoke being proportionally smaller with respect to the remaining area of the back.




* The back yoke was a bit high up my back. It does not seem to work well with my slightly rounded upper back.

* The gathered upper edge of the lower back coupled with the upper back yoke did not suit me that well. I prefer the back of March 2009's #106 being one piece.

*Collar seemed to be a bit long for the neckline. It extended beyond the front edges of the neckline or the ends of the drawstring casings. It might have been due to my tracing and cutting errors.

* Very low neckline.


Modifications
* Used part of the border print for the tab collar.

* Added lightweight fusible interfacing to one of the tab collar pieces. There was no mention of interfacing the collar in the directions.

* Took a 1/4" from each end of the collar. I still found that it extended beyond the neckline. I did not bother shortening it further. So I bent each end to cover about an 1" of neckline's casing from the top edge, before stitching the collar facing over the neckline seam from the inside. I wonder if this was the intended design feature...

*I omitted the little button closure at the collar. The closed collar style does not work for me.

* Raised the center front 2" tapering to 0" below the shoulder seam.


Conclusion
I plan to sew this top again, replacing the upper back yoke and the gathered lower piece with one entire back piece, or a left and right piece with a centered seam.

I recommend this top If you do have the July 2007 which I think is good issue.



This is a comfortable top! I wore this top yestertay at work.

Gifts for My Mommy

Heather hinted throughout the week that she had some special surprises for me. Yesterday afternoon she excitedly gave me a little white bag with pink and blue stars that she drew and colored. Wow, I had little butterflies when I opened the bag. I received a Mother's Day card with a beautiful message in it signed by Heather and a tulip on the cover (she cut and pasted the little red vase), and
a little ribbon bounded notepad with a pen and Heather's adorable sketch of me and her printed on the lower left corner of each page. The sweet notepad consisted of xeroxed pages of a reduced sketch that each child drew of his/her mother and him/her so that it would appear on the lower corner of each page.




Heather's teachers are amazing to prepare the notepads and the beautiful cards with the pre-cut tulips and heart-warming message for the mothers of the children.



The children recently learned about measurement. Heather told me that Mrs. B measured all of the children and arranged them according to their heights. Taped to the left inside of my card is a folded green "stem" that represents Heather's height Mother's Day of this year. This is a very sweet memento to be treasured now and for years to come.

"As I have grown these early years
Mommy dear you've seem me bloom.
The stem will show in later years
How tall I was this special Mother's Day.

I thank you mother for your daily unconditional
Love!
You are helping me become
A beautiful flower in this garden of life.

Happy Mother's Day
This May 2009"

Heather




Happy Mother's Day to not only our mothers but also to all women for their love, guidance, and support.

Diamonds and Flowers are a Girl's Best Friends

Kimono/butterfly sleeves are flying in!
Trina Turk



Kwik Sew's 3616 v-neck knit tops. These models are pretty and look like everyday people. Their facial expressions are weird just like the real models on the previous KS pattern I used. Who is the photographer of these Kwik Sew models?

It just came across my mind that this is officially my first knit top with kimono-type sleeves! Even though I am not the biggest fan of these sleeves, my curiousity prompted me to give this pattern a try.

I was hesitant to post a review of this top due my embarrassment of committing a fashion faux pas after sewing my first version. But I thought I would get over my embarrassment by being bold to post this review.

After having fun experimenting with this floral and argyle border print fabric that I used a month ago to make Heather's Simplicity 2630 dress, I decided to use the rest of this fabric with this seemingly easy pattern.







First version:


So I guess I am not off track in picking one huge print for somewhere in the front! Tory Burch's Sun Circle Top for $275


Back of first version


For my second version, I was inspired by this Missoni v-neck 'Annalisa' dress from Saksy for $1,215:



So I placed the border print in the upper bodice:


Pattern Description
Close fitting tops with V-neckline finished with facings, gathers on front at shoulders and under bust.


Size
XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a medium instead of a large. The other reviewers noted that the pattern ran a little large. I found it close-fitting as KS described considering I used a less stretchy knit and I do not have a small waist.


Fabric
Poly jersey knit from Gorgeous Things. It was fun to experiment with the floral and border prints. After comparing my two versions as a result of the placement of fabric design, my first top emphasized my tummy and the second emphasized my bust.


Likes

* Easy to make
* Slight gathers below the shoulders
* Depth of v-neck was easily adjustable. I sewed above the center dot when joining the upper left and upper right fronts.
* The seam under the bust was about 1" lower than it should be on me. However, such styles where the empire seam is lower flatters women who are short-waisted or who have proportionally short torsos with respect to their frame
* Suitable for all body types


Dislikes

* Hmmmm.... I wished that I had not cut the fabric so that the big flower on my first version was there popping out in front my eyes when I looked in the mirror, targeting my belly button. Oops! It sure detracted from the sleeves and emphasized the area below the bust. Now I feel like a fashion "don't". I thought I was going to be cool with all this flower power business. I should have re-read the PR thread on suitable prints for petites. Other than my bizarre fabric placement, there was nothing much to dislike.

* The neckline was too low for me.

* I am not the biggest fan of large kimono or butterfly sleeves. However, thank goodness my sleeves did not flare out as the ones on the pattern envelope due to the drape of the fabric.


Directions

I can only rave about Kwik Sew directions and the accompanying illustrations. The steps are easy to follow and more experienced sewers can get by just looking at the illustrations. The directions sheet included a section on finishing stitches for the seams.


Modifications

First version
* Raised the upper bodice's center seam by nearly 2".

* Added a center seam to the back due to fabric design. Since I wanted the border print to be a part of each sleeve, I did not cut the back on the fold. Instead, I cut the left back and a right back separately, adding a seam allowance fro the center back.

* Skipped the neck facing. I folded a 3/8" hem with 1/4" of the raw edge tucked under and stitched. I had some difficulty sewing the seam before and after the shoulder seams. My folded seam allowance became unstable and machine outputted uneven zigs and zags. I should have gone with my first gut instinct to use the neck back facings.

* Skipped finishing the bottom hem of the sleeves. Since I liked the way the sleeves draped and the fact that my fabric was one of those "unravelly" knits, I just let it be.

Both versions
* Cut an XL instead of a "M" at the lower edge of the pattern.
* Sewed 3/8" seams instead of the recommended 1/4"

Second version
* Raised the seam below the bust by about 1/2".
* Raised the seam under armscye 1/2"
* Used the front and back facings per KS instructions. The neckline of the first version was more stable.


Conclusion
If you want to sew a quick and easy knit top, I highly recommend this pattern, but beware the potentially very low neckline. This is a great pattern for beginners, especially in the area of sleeve construction.

Miss-Cute-Ears

After I made a red ribbed knit version (first version), Heather became hooked on this top, especially after discovering that it was quite easy to sew. She asked me to make more!




Pattern Description
"Fast and Easy"
"Girls' tunic, dress, sash, and leggings" Pullover tunics and dress have hem variatons. A: lace inset. B, C yoke neckline. C: sash. Leggins D has casing and elastic waist." I made view A, the crossover tunic with a ruffled bottom, and an inset or what I refer to as a "mock modesty cami".

Size
7-8-10-12

Favorite Features of this View
* Easy to make
* Few pattern pieces for view A, front, back, inset, and bottom ruffle/flounce.
* Cap sleeves
* Has sporty and feminine style.

Not-So-Favorite Features
*Neckline of the inset is low and somewhat loose. It has a tendency to droop forward little.
*Extensive gathering for the bottom ruffle



Fabric
First version: cotton rib knit:



Second version: girly cami poly knit with some spandex



Third version: poly jersey from Emma One Sock


Directions
I was impressed with very nice illustrations alongside the sufficiently clear basic directions in an easy-to-read and step-by-step format.

General steps:
* Stitch front and back sections at shoulders.
* Finish neckline
* Lap the front over the left matching the notches, large circular dots, and centers. Baste the lower edges together.
* Add optional trim to the inset.
* Pin right side of inset to wrong side of front. Baste armhole, side and lower edges
* Stitch front and back sections together at sides, below the large dots. Clip seam allownces to circles.
*Make a narrow hem at armhole edges.
*Stitch ruffle sections together at sides.
*Gather upper edge of ruffle.
*Finish lower edge of ruffle. Trim is optional.
*Pin upper edge of ruffle to lower edge of tunic. Adjust gathers, baste, and stitch.


Modifications
* For the second and third version, I used elastic thread for gathering the upper edge of the ruffle. Why didn't I think of using that for the first version? I wound some elastic thread on the bobbin, loosened the tension a notch and voila, the upper edge of the ruffle had already gathered on its own! I left enought elastic threads of the end so that the gathering does not "escape" and pulled those ends to further gather the upper edge.

* I raised the inset or modesty bodice panel another inch

* When Heather tried on each top for the first time, I lightly marked the points belowthe front edges on which to tack inset to secure the fronts edges and thus prevent them from "flopping about".

*For the third version (Target bullseye version), I added a white strip (about an inch wide after folding in half lengthwise) to the upper edge of the inset. I like that it stabilizes the neckline and raises it to a more appropriate level.

Conclusion
Definitely a simple and stylish top for your fashion conscious young lady. If you have this pattern and plan to sew this view, note the level and drape of the neckline and securing the inset to each of the front edges. The flounced bottom, fun fabric and trim give character to a plain knit top.

Puttin' on the Ricci

1969...
"...Shapes. Some people called it the year of the body, not because more anatomy was on display than even before, but because body-hugging clothes made the headlines. Gentle jersey shirtdresses went snug and were tied close at the waist or slimmed down with smocking. Long sweater-jackets slunk closer...", from
Paperpast Yearbook's 1969 recap of trends. There's also a cute pic of a young Lauren Hutton and a pair of "Roxbury" looking guys, hee hee hee. I thought this is an informative and entertaining fashion yearbook detailing trends from 1950-1979 by a click on a year.


The roll neck collar dress is back in full swing:

Barrie Pace dress in metallic thread jacquard regularly for $218:


Barrie Pace longer sleeved version in ponte knit


Sara Campbell's silk dress at Amazon.com regularly for $248





Vogue Paris Original by Nina Ricci

Pattern Description
From 1969: One-Piece Dress. Loose fitting straight dress has short kimono sleeves and square seaming detail on front and back. Stand-away bias rolled collar. Slanted welt pockets. Purchased or self fabric belt. This design came out when Ms. Ricci was 86 years old.

"...Working directly with the fabric on a mannequin, Nina Ricci created elegant, sophisticated clothes in classic style. She was noted for her high standard of workmanship and became a popular designer for older society women.
She was skilled at making the most of a print, cutting a plaid for an evening dress on the bias, echoing the X-cross in the skirt pattern in the surplice, crossed-over treatment of the bodice. One daring dress in 1937 had a halter neck open between the breasts from neck to waist. Day and evening dresses alike drew attention to the figure, by being fitted to below the waist and featuring much shirring and drapery..." Ms. Ricci was definitely ahead of her time!

More of Nina Ricci biography

Wiki list of Nina Ricci sewing patterns



Fabric
Floral Fantasy Stretch Cotton - Red/White from GorgeousThings.com




Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except for the wild floral print I used.

Likes
* 60's shift/aline style
* Interesting front of bodice where there is a top yoke attached to the rest of the dress, resulting two inverted "v" seams at each end joined by a straight seam in the bust area.
* Cap sleeves (extensions of the upper front and back bodice and thus, no need to set-in sleeves!)
* Welt pockets
* Unique collar (cut on the bias and folded outward)

Dislikes
*Construction of welt pockets. Vogue did a fine job of detailing the construction, but I would have preferred to use Kenneth King's method described in his Cool Couture book.

*Sized for regular not petite figures. The dress for me necessitated a petite adjustment between the armscye and waist.

* Difficult to ease the upper front and back yokes to the corresponding upper edges of the remaining front and back of the dress. I hand basted the yokes to the lower part of the dress before machine stitching. My inverted "V"'s points were more rounded than pointed.

Were the directions easy to follow?
Absolutely and even better with the helpful illustrations. I read the entire directions before cutting the fabric, noting all of the marked symbols and the various corners to be clipped prior to basting and sewing. Since, I wanted to stay true or almost true to the original construction, I followed most of the directions as noted in the modifications below.


I did not even mind hand-stitching the collar to the inside seam and self-facing the short sleeves.


Modifications
*Omitted the "underlining" or what seemed like lining pieces individually to avoid further bulk. I did not want to relive my experience from a previous vintage Vogue when I "underlined" an entire jacket, when I could have just simply "lined" it as usual.

*Used an invisible zipper

*Omitted the belt carriers. I actually like it without the belt

*Added back darts below the shoulders to take in the back

*If I plan to make this next time, I would make a 1 cm petite adjustment betweem the armhole and waist.

*Shortened the length of the sleeve facings to be able to encircle the sleeves

*Removed a total of 5" from the bottom hem.

*After trying it on, I decided to reinforce the seams with bias tape.



Conclusion
Overall this dress was not that difficult to construct, but not a "quick" sew. I like the silhouette of the dress and the collar, but I'm not so certain that the collar's style really suits me. Although this pattern is 40 years, this or a similar styling is very wearable today. I highly recommend trying any of the vintage Vogue designers series (i.e. Vogue Couturier, Vogue Paris Originals, Vogue Americana). Today's styles seems to have many elements borrowed from the past.....