Saturday, July 24, 2010

Square Deal

Here is a "new look" of math books, bigger and thicker, but not necessarily better for our students.   I prefer the "older" textbooks that contain essential information without the fluff, gimmicks, and glitz.  Textbooks are big business nowadays. 
My daughter is wearing a Jalie 2788 twist top that I recently made. 


Here is misses' New Look 6415 (out of print), a pattern I had for more than six years.  I could not find the copyright date on the envelope in on the instruction sheets.  You could get a lot of "new looks" from this pattern. Something this little can give you so much.



Pattern Description:

New Look's ambiguous description: "11 pieces" and "six pieces in one".

My desciption: 5 views of a sleeveless top with 3 neckline options: ruched with bias binding, mock turtleneck with the ruching, and a cowl neck. There are two views with a banded tie bottom for a blouson style.





Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 8 - 18. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, and a "14" everywhere else. For this strange knit, a "12" everywhere else would have been more suitable.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
It was close enough.

Suggested Fabrics
Silks and silk types, crepe, jacquards, laundered silks/rayons. I would not recommend using a knit as I did. Maybe a more stable knit would have provided much better results.


Fabric Used:
Clearance rib-knit from Joann's. The eyecatching print lured me. But, sewing with it is another story. It's one of those knits that do not recover well after stitching. It is fine for making wearable muslins



 
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were more clear with the diagrams, considering that there were 2 main pattern pieces and the facings. Due to the simplicity of the pattern, I did not use them much.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the simplicity and versatility of this pattern. You could achieve countless looks by this pattern alone. I would not recommend sleeves unless you alter the depth of the armscye. A-hem, I know this after temporaily adding short sleeves cut from another pattern, and the top looked odd.

Most likely due to my unconventional fabric choice, I should have had gathered the back neckline as suggested by Eli.  There was some unexpected draping.  Taking in the back with some gathering and applying the bias neckband after shortening its length a little would have hopefully solved the problem.



Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

 *My usual petite adjustment at the waistline and upper back.

*Due to fabric constraints, instead of cutting the back as two pieces to form a center back seam, I cut it on a fold, taking into account the center back seam allowance.

*I reduced the ruching at the front and potential droop of the neckline by translating the center front fold past the lengthwise fold (approximately 3/8') of the fabric.

*After shortening the bias binding due to my neckline width adjustment, I sewed the binding to wrong side of the fabric and turned it over to the outside and topstitched with a narrow raw side tucked under. I wish I had done this with the armhole bindings. I highly recommend Linda L's method for this that she used for her version of this top.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Definitely! This is a very simple top and I recommend it with a suitable fabric.


Conclusion:
I plan to make another and maybe another...

Monday, July 12, 2010

Den-im-Might



Denim is not just for jeans and jackets, but also for dresses! There are denim shirtdresses, denim sheath dresses, denim bandeau dresses, denim corset dresses, denim bustier dresses, ruffled denim dresses, denim tank dresses, denim zipper front dresses, and the list goes on.  My favorite dress back in the 1990's was a zip-front dress in a light weight denim that I purchased in the junior's department.  I wish I could wear one now, like I did back then. 


After my success in sewing a dress with a halter-style criss-cross back with  a 1966 Simplicity pattern, I thought I would sew a dress in a "style that I also have not worn in while", such a dress with a bandeau upper bodice and thin shoulder straps.






One of my favorite singers, adorable Carrie Underwood in a Jay Godfrey "Colorblock" denim dress with exposed zipper for an unbelievable $315 at TheTrendBoutique.com. 








Although I am not a fan of Kim Kardashian, here she is looking chic in a VOOM pinstriped denim dress by Joy Han.  Dress can be found at TheHipChick.com.


















I just sewed a "knock-off" or "copy-cat" version of a bandeau denim dress.  The dress that inspired me was DKNYC's denim fitted dress sheath found in Macy's.com.












Betsey Johnson's denim jacquard dress with straps has a similar style.






I used McCall's 5881 view C for my inspiration dress, which consisted of four pattern pieces: the front bodice, the back bodice, the lower front, and lower back.  I cut two of the front bodice on a fold (one for the facing) and two pairs of the back bodice, one pair of which will form the back facing.  I used chalk and red pen to mark the bust darts and the darts on the front and back skirt pieces. 



Although I like the style of this dress, two drawbacks for me are that this dress displays my asymmetrical curves and emphasizes my vertically challenged torso, characteristics which I prefer to camouflage with print and/or unfitted styles! For now, one of this type of dress will do. However, I find that the bust runs a tad large, especially at the front.




But then, vivacious Niecy Nash, is an inspiration for women of all shapes and sizes.  I became an instant fan of hers after her appearance on Dancing With the Stars.



























This is the entire upper bodice with the front facing and upper back facings, before turning inside out and understitching the edges. The white chalk marks signify the positions of the shoulder straps. I cut two strips, each being 1 1/2" in width and 16" in length. I folded each strip in half, right sides together and sewed a 1/4" seam. I performed the arduous task of turning the strips inside out, with a safety pin. I was nearly tempted to ditch this method in favor of just stitching lengthwise along the edge of an iron-pressed folded strip.


After some initial fittings, I changed the placement of the front ends and back ends of the straps. I also shortened each strap about an inch.



My experience with denim as often "frayed' my nerves. So I used some strips of fabric remnants to finish the seams. I did the best I can to hand-stitch or slip-stitch the folded edge of the facing to the inside seam. It was a challenge to deal with the puckers as I stitched.


I machine finished the edge,turned up and iron pressed a 1" hem instead of a 2" hem as directed.  I previously shortened the pattern by 3"

Conclusion.

Just a change in fabric and embellishments make this a versatile pattern to create "daytime" dresses and dramatic evening or formal attire.

Wednesday, July 07, 2010

The Blue Jean-ies

I promised Heather that she would get a new pair of jeans from Old Navy once her cast was removed.  She liked the fit of the Old Navy jeans she recently outgrew and could not wait to get a new pair.  It has been two weeks that she has been freed from the cast on June 23. 

Finding a pair of nice fitting jeans is not an easy task.  In Heather's case, jeans are usually very loose due to her slender build, with varying lengths.  Seven months ago, I sewed Jalie 2908.  However, she only wore them twice because at that time they were loose and long.  After being recently "discovered", they fit her better now after some "growing up".  This pattern is the closest to fit and style of her once favorite Old Navy Jeans.  I plan to sew her a new pair with "peace-heart" symbols on the back pockets.


Review of Jalie 2908 jeans pattern







Last winter:




I nearly purchased a pair of the ladies "Sweetheart" style closest to my size with the $19 price tag, but did not because I was not fully satisfied with the fit- the waistband situated a tad lower than what I preferred, and the legs- did not have the sleekness I was looking for in a "boot cut".   Now I plan to sew a pair of Jalie 2908 jeans for myself and another for my daughter!




Today, after we purchased a new pair of Old Navy jeans,  an argyle sweater, a pair of slippers, and three thermos-style sippers on clearance, Heather asked to be photographed by some "Old Navy kids", the "talking" mannequins that she sees in the commercials.  She is wearing a Jalie 2788 twist top and the Jalie 2908 jeans that fit her better now.






Heather poses by a "low maintenance" pup at the store.















Going blue/green with reusable shopping Old Navy tote bags.


Friday, July 02, 2010

A Fair-y Tale

Ruffles: little and big, are appearing not only on the center front,  on necklines, in tiers, but also asymmetrically on the sides, and...

















 First column:upper top from Boston Proper top  for $89 and second top also from Boston Proper.

Second column: upper ($34) and center ($34) from ELLE from Kohls and lower picture from INC international Concepts for $49 from Macy's.


Third column; all from the Chaps ($36, $45, $35) collection from Kohl's.


Fourth column: upper picture, Milly's $245 top from Saks Fifth Avenue, center picture: Carolina Herrera's $1,190 ruffle top ffrom Neiman Marcus, and bottom pic at the lowest right: Aquilano Rimondi top from Neiman Marcus for $770.


...even on a pair of Marc Jacobs' bloomer/shorts, which seems to be suitable and adorable for little girls...















Although I am not introducing a new garment, I just want to share a recent experience with a top that I sewed a year ago from McCall's 5803.

Have you ever had the experience of sewing something in the past and not wearing it or wearing it only once, only to wear it a year or more later (after letting it be in hiding) and appreciating it more? Is this common?



Here is the link of my original blog entry about this pattern:










This photo was taken on July of last year.














It's been two years since we visited our annual local county fair. Of course, my daughter was more thrilled than my husband and me combined.


Here's Heather and I "planting" ourselves in front of an exhibit at the Plant/Flower/Jacuzzi section.














I originally intended to wear a knit top, but this time, I wanted to wear something that would be in alignment with the ruffles trend this season. Even ruffled shower curtains are "in". The sleeveless or "cutaway" armhole style and the voile-type fabric seemed to be ideal for the arrival of warm and sunny weather after today's early morning overcast as mentioned by my husband. After a tad of shrinkage from the wash, I was surprised that the top fits me decently.


I plan to sew this top (one with and another without the ruffles) again very soon with the summer season still here. I also noticed that I did not need to perform the petite adjustment and it would be better to add 2" to the length to camouflage my short torso. I have had similar experiences with a few other McCall's tops or jackets.



Life is a Carousel, oh chum
My daughter and I rode the "Wave Swinger", a carousel supposedly identical (we are here somehwere...) to Michael J's version at his well known estate. I recommend this if you are into "flying" and "pendulum" motion rides with surprising speed. "Never" land on this type of ride especially if you have vertigo and/or fear of flights. My tolerance for "thrill'-ing rides is waning a bit. I was still disoriented for minutes well after disembarking from the swing.



I hope very soon to hop back on the sewing "carousel", after my completing my list of other projects. Although this pattern is now out-of-print just as the entire Hilary Duff line, I still recommend this pattern, but with a caution on sizing, especially for taller women. It seemed that Ms. Duff's patterns contain styles that are trendy now and potentially very wearable in future seasons.

It seems now I am seeing more variations of the recognizable Burda Style's JJ ruffled top in the fashion scene than when I initally saw the pattern two years ago. Using MJ's Wave Swinger pendulum ride as a metaphor, fashion styles travel to a sky-high upswing for a certain period and taper off to a momentary low and a stop. Then the fashion "wave cycle" repeats, beckoning more to take a ride.










Runway ruffle trend 2010













More Fun at the Fair
Before the Wave Swinger
A lady, upon exiting this ride, recommended to not get on this ride, especially directed at my daughter. She was nearly sick to her stomach. My husband and daughter are somehere here "riding the Storm". Heather cheated by closing her eyes most of the time during the ride. My husband also felt sorry for a man turning red after the middle of the ride. Fortunately, I originally opted to avoid this one, and take this video.


Night Owls
Father and daughter at a little Toyota exhibit. Heather is "test driving" a brand new Highlander. Approximate cost:  $30,000.

Eager Evening Rider
 I remember riding with Heather in a similar ride two years ago here and a "larger" version of this last year at Oland Amusement Park in Sweden. I reminded Heather to keep her neck firm and be bold.
















View from a "ski-lift" overlooking a section of the fairgrounds.








Before Ten before ten in the evening, the fair's closing time. We are all tired, but still happy.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Striped-Out



The  Dynasty Dames revived glitz and glamour in primetime TV during the 80's. John Forsythe or "Blake" was caught in the middle.   The sweetheart neckline that seems to look good on every woman was a distinctive style element from the 1940's and seemed to reinvent itself in decades thereafter. Check out Catherine Oxenberg, Heather Locklear, and Pamela Bellwood in the bottow row.  I can safely surmise that the 1980's ladies can get away with sporting a mullet-ized coiffure while wearing an evening gown.




St. John jacket seems like a hybrid of a halter dress with sweetheart neckline nd a bolero or shrug.  All this for just under $1,385.











This lady in red is dressed in a mistique suit from Ashro.com for $189.  I like the way the front princess seams lead into the front seams of the skirt. 














New Look 6867 caught my attention at Le Wal Marche. The jacket's flattering neckline was the highlight of this pattern.  After purchasing this with three other New Look patterns, I sewed it not too long after arriving home.


Uh-oh, totally 80's tunes are coming back with just the mention of Dynasty.


You make my SEAMS come true, ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh...

Pattern Description:
Unlined jacket with either 3/4 sleeves or pleated short sleeves and sleeveless dresses with shoulder strap options.


The pattern contains 17 pieces. For the jacket, I cut 4 of the fronts (2 were used later as interfaced facings), one of the center back, 2 of the side fronts, 2 of the side backs, and 2 sleeve pieces.



Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-18. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and armscye, and a "14" at the sides.












Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?


Yes, except that my shirt/jacket is more loose fitting.





Fabric Used:


Polyester pin-striped fabric with some stretch from FashionistaFabrics.com. This fabric was left over from my Burda 129 waiscoat/vest from the September 2009 issue.








Your stitch, your stitch is on my list...

Favorite Features


*Sweetheart neckline with a raised or standing collar.

*Princess seams at the front and back.

*Short or 3/4 sleeve options

*Just as easy to construct as a princess-seamed shirt with front facings.



I can't SEW for that, no can do...

Not-so-favorite Features
*I concur with fellow PR sewists who worked with this pattern that the jacket runs larger than the usual sizing. I could have gone down a size. I can understand the jacket being loose to make allowance for wearing over certains tops or dresses.


* It would have been more practical to line the entire jacket. I probably would have taken about the same or less time if I included a lining instead of slipstitching or handstitching the front facings to the princess seams and slipstitching the lower hem.

* There is a slight bulk at the front armscye caused by the thickness of the fabric, and stitching together the front facing and sleeve with the armscye sandwiched in between the two layers.




Everytime you SEW away, you sew a piece of me with you...
Were the instructions easy to follow?


* The verbage, order of construction, and illustrations, were user friendly. The jacket, views D and E, occupied only the third and fourth pages of the entire set.

* Stitching the princess seams (side fronts to the fronts and side backs to the center back) was effortless due to the notches aligning nicely.

* Details such as stay-stitching along the neckline and clipping inset corners are included.


*The front sections are joined together to form a center back seam. The upper part of the front facings are attached to the back portion of the neckline, interrupted by a clipped corner and continues outwards to form the left and right shoulder seams and downards matching the edges of the armscyes and curving towards the center to form the princess seams with the side front pieces.


*The front facings are interfaced and joined at the center back the same way as the front sections. With right sides together, they are attached along the front edges and the upper edge of the collar and turned to the inside. I did a considerable amount of iron pressing, at the seams, especially at the neckline.



Say it isn't SEW...

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

* My usual adjustments:

   Folded a 1" petite adjustment at the designated line


  Shortened the upper back by 3/4" to minimize waves and rolls caused by excess fabric. Although I forgot to adjust the sleeves to account for the upper back adjustment, I did not take too much from the sleeve caps while setting them into the armholes.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably would sew this shirt/jacket again with the pleated short sleeves. I recommend this pattern for classic style and design and its simplicity in construction.



Conclusion:

Variations in fabric, buttons, trim, neckline, and sleeves make this pattern highly adaptable. The pattern for the dress also looks very promising.
















This is a Terijon taffeta top retailing for $350. It is simple, yet elegant






Nanette Lepore's "Wistful" top has more depth and less width, but not a low pricetag.








A fellow sewist sent me "two more buttons" in good humor.  I originally intended to add two more buttons, but did not have enough of the same buttons to complete the look. Actually, the jacket looks better with five buttons.