Sewberta Plant

Here is a pattern that I purchased last week at JoAnn's during a Buttericks' sale. 

Pattern Description:

Tops/tunics with scoop necklines and sleeve options. I sewed view "B", the top with the sleeve tabs that the model is wearing.  I agree that this pattern is "easy", if it is sewn straight out of the envelope.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8-18.

I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline. I sewed a "14" elsewhere.

Fabric Used:
A mystery lightweight polyester woven from le Wal Marche

I feel llike a walking billboard for Ragu pasta sauce or for Knorr soups and seasonings due to the color scheme of their logos.  

"Babe I’m Gonna Sleeve You"

The pair of sleeve tabs for view "B" is simple to sew (This is actually the third time to sew then on a garment). Once a tab is turned inside out after sewing two pieces together and closing the open end with little zig-zag stitches...

(1) I stitched a buttonhole, 3/4" above the pointed end.

(2) I aligned this end and double-stitched it (using a 1/4" seam allowance) along the marked circles (transferred from the front and pattern pieces) perpendicular to the interior shoulder seam. On the outside, where the double-stitching was visible, I attached a button, centered at the shoulder seam.

(3) I took the tab "out of hiding" from the inside to the outside, "ruching" the sleeves in the process, to fasten it to the button, instead of rolling up the sleeves first per the instructions. The button and pointed end of the tab ended up being just past my shoulder. I fiddled with the tab and sleeve so that the tab and sleeve seam are both centered as much as possible along my upper arm.

"Whole Lotta Length and Width"
*For the views that do not have the elastic at the waist, the top billows out due to its exaggerated a-line shaping.

*Loose neckline, which could be remedied by taking in further the center seam of the bias strip of fabric to tighten the neckline, or adjusting the front/back pattern pieces to remove excess width.

*The original length of the tunic can overwhelm petite frames.


More Riffs
* To decrease the width of the upper back, I took out a 3/8" seam (3/4" total width) from the center of the upper back before cutting the entire back piece from the fabric.

*To shorten the upper back I made a horizontal fold starting with a 1/2" length from the center of the pattern piece, tapering to 0" at the sleeves

*I made a 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist on the front and back pattern pieces.

*Instead of sewing the bias strip onto the right side or visible part of the neckline, I sewed it onto the wrong side at 3/8" seams, pressed one end, turned it to the outside and topstitched it to the neckline.

*Topstitched the sleeve tabs

*I found the tunic length long for my short torso. Instead of using the full length for the tunic version, I added 1" to the length for view "C" .

*I took in each side seam an additional 1/4".

*Since I was dealing with fabric that unravelled or frayed easily at the edges, I staystitched the lower edges of the sleeves and those of the entire top 1/8" from the edge before pressing under a 1/2" hem and topstitching.

Comeback Tour?
I would sew with this pattern after a few more changes:
(1) tightening and raising the depth of the neckline
(2) removing excess width at the bust, upper back, and hips (especially for the non-elasticized tops)

So this pattern has a hopeful potential to be "go-to" or TNT pattern.

I recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction and its versatility, with added caution of the neckline depth, potential generous sizing at the bust and hips, and the the tunic length being long, especially for petites.

If you sew the pattern, straight out of the envelope, it undoubtedly is a "simple sew" or a "quick gratification" project.

Time to prepare dinner.  Chicken Broccoli flavored rice sounds good for tonight or maybe some Ragu and pasta.

Wave-O-Lution

A forty-one-year-old pattern that I purchased from ebay several years ago...

This pattern was one of the earlier ones that I purchased on-line to start my "retro" pattern collection.  I recall being inspired after watching some of my favorite classic television shows that appeared on the TV Land network or elsewhere.  For months now, I have been in a phase of sewing "collar-less" tops.  During one particular week last summer, I was on a shirt-sewing spree which included using a Burda commercial pattern, a Marlo Thomas 1970's pattern, and this pattern.   

 Pattern Description:  "The top-stitched men's and misses' shirt V. 1 and 2 with forward shoulder seams and slash opening at neck edge have collar, set-in sleeves and slit openings in side seams.  V. 2 with long sleeves gathered to buttoned cuff is worn with self fabric tie belt.  V. 2 with short sleeves has optional purchased belt."

Size:  Misses' size 14, bust 36

Here is the back of the pattern envelope that also includes information on men's sizing and fabric requirement. 

I made this top from a cotton woven blend from fabric.com. 

Favorite Features:

*I like the tunic-style of this top, although the fit and overall style look a bit dated due to the decade of the pattern.  This pattern would have been ideal  for dressing Mr. and Mrs. Brady and their children during their early 1970's heyday on television.

*I replaced the sleeve cuffs and plackets, with pleated flounces, for a more feminine look.

* The directions and illustrations are user friendly and non-intimidating for beginners who want to sew collared and cuffed shirts, without such features as front buttons and buttonholes and collar stands.   I also find that sewing with such basic patterns help return some sewing "mojo" before tackling more challenging  projects.

*The front slit is easy to create using the stitch and slash method as described on the instruction sheet. 

All the directions are on one sheet, front and back.

Not-so-favorite features

* Dropped sleeves (approximately an inch and a quarter past each shoulder) and excess gathers/ease, which do not appear on the illustrated models on the pattern envelope.

*No shaping at the side seams. 

Modifications

* Performed my usual petite adjusmtents at the upper back and at the waistline.

* Changed the cuffed sleeves to pleated sleeves for a flounced look.  It seemed that I cut the width of the sleeve cuff/flounce 4"-5" inches wider than the circumference of each sleeve at the wrist's location, and distributed 5 little pleats as evenly as possible before attaching it to the end of the sleeve.

* Sewed the collar from the inside, or the wrong side of the garment, leaving the facing portion free between the clipped points (right side of collar to the wrong side of the neck line), instead of sewing from the outside (right sides of the collar and neckline together). Then the collar is flipped to the outside and topstitched to the neckline. I recall a similar method I used to construct a 1950's blouse. This leaves a sleeker and cleaner finish from the inside of the neckline leading to the upper front and no erratic topstitching on the neckline seam on the outside.



Conclusion:

I probably will not use this pattern again.  It's a fairly easy pattern that I would recommend for those who like styles from the early 1970's or for a retro-themed event.

Two pairs of dangling gold "waves".  I purchased a pair of the Veronese from hsn.com last year.

Changing Your Spots

"Sew, Sew, Sew Your Bateau Gently Down The Seams..."

Pattern Description:
"Misses' Top, Tunic and Sash: Very loose-fitting, pullover tops A, B, tunics c, D have bateau neckline and attached hems. A: Armhole flounce. B: contrast appliques and ends of sash. C, D: side slits. D: contrast above wriist length sleeves. A, C, D: purchased belt.

I sewed view A.

Pattern Sizing:
I used BB: 8-10-12-14.
I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and neckline. For my second version,  I sewed a "12", instead of my usual "14" at the bust and sides. When Butterick meant "loose-fitting", it really meant very loose fitting!


Fabric Used:
Second version: Pre-laundered cotton woven with red and white leopard print.   First version: Remaining poly-satin from Le Wal Marche from my previous two projects. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, except my sleeves of my second version of this pattern ruffled "differently" due to my "little" upwards translation of the start of the armholes.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
I thought they were easy to the point that I was able to nearly get by with only the illustrations. I found it helpful to preview the entire set of instructions due to the pattern having 4 views.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Favorite Features
*Few pattern pieces (front, back, front facing, back facing, sleeve flounce (view A)

*The top sews more quickly, especially if you sew view "A" without the flounced sleeves.

First version (muslin).  This top was a very loose "sack".  Then now it's too fitted!  I should have stopped after taking the seams in for the second time.

*Bateau neckline



Not-so-favorite Features
*Although I like the bateau neckline, I am not fond of using the "outdated" interfaced neck facings. For my first version, I folded and topstitched the neckline, which somehow did not work, especially with the "slippery" fabric I was using. It would have probably worked if I ironed on a strip of interfacing to stabilize the neckline. However, for the second top, I used the front and neck facing. After careful understitching and some iron-pressing of the neck facing, I was able to get a sleeker neckline.

*The neckline tended to drape with a droop, which I attribute to my narrow shoulders. If I make this top again, I would do a slash and overlap below each shoulder.

*My usual 1" petite adjustment did not work for the back because of those extra wrinkles created by the additional length. It seemed that I needed to fold in an additional 1".

*I thought the location where the armholes started (designated by the marked squares which are lower for view A than the other views due to including the sleeve flounces) were quite low for me, landing below my bustline. After I raised it to the upper squares, I had to shorten the sleeve flounces to better encircle armscyes as I stitched. Now due to the placement, my flounces flared out "wildly"! For a moment, I thought I heard samba music playing!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I took in the sleeve flounces approximately 1 1/2".

*I took in the back an additional 5/8" (folded the pattern piece before cutting) because I foresaw "draping" in the upper back.

*I sewed the shoulders together and sides together using French seams.

*To prevent the hems of the sleeve flounce from showing, I cut another pair of flounce pieces to act as self-facings or linings for the other pair. I sewed each facing (right sides together) to the original flounce.

*Since I was not yet able to find a belt that would coordinate well with the flounced top, I sewed a makeshift belt from the remaining fabric and secured it with a red buckle from Lucy'sFabrics.com that I purchased a few years ago.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already sewn it twice and need to make a neckline adjustment and another petite adjustment at the back waistline. I recommend this top along with my observation that the top seems to run one or two sizes larger from my experience.

Without a belt:

Conclusion:
Even with my fuss with the sleeves and the fit, I was able to sew my top in nearly two hours!

Pre-Oscars Tribute: And The Oscars Sew To...

Due to busy networks, I was not able to transmit this yesterday. 

You can look red-carpet worthy from Burda, Butterick, McCall's, New Look, and Vogue patterns! Let's honor the ladies of motion pictures and film from past and present.

One of this year's host of the Oscar Award, "Anne Hathaway", wears an award-winning look from Burda Style, this month's issue.  Her credits include The Princess Diaries, The Devil Wears Prada, and 2010's "Love and Other Drugs". 

You don't have to wear Prada, if you can look SEW chic in McCall's!

McCall's 6243 is SEW hip and trendy!

Anne at the MTV awards in 2008.  Her dress looks wearable today.

Anne at this year Golden Globes.

Natalie Portman can wear red Vogue 1208 with panache.

Wearing a red Rodarte in 2009.

In a $50 H & M Dress at a Hollywood party

Black Swan's Natalie Portman, nominated for Best Actress is swimming in happiness.   Her entertainment career started with dance lessons at 4 years of age and theatrical roles.  This is her first Oscar nomination. Her credits include 1994's "Leon", Star Wars Episodes 1 (1999), 2 (2002) and 3(2005) as Queen Amidala, 2003's "Cold Mountain", and 2008's "The Other Bolelyn Girl".  

..


Oscar nominee for  1994's "What's Love Got to Do With It", Angela Bassett can deliver pure panache in a Butterick 5323.

I adore this 60's upswept hairdo on her also! I hope to see her more on the big screen. 

I can easily imagine "Blue Valentine's" Michelle Williams wearing a McCall's 6170 asymmetrical jacket.

She reminds me of Mia Farrow here.

I prefer her with longer hair as in her "Dawson Creek" days.

Selina star and seductive American Idol judge "Jennifer Lopez" in Vogue 8710. 

Displaying classic glamour at this year's Golden Globes.

Displaying eye-dolizing pizzazz at this year's Grammy's:

Dream Girl  Jennifer Hudson would look gorgeous in a shirtdress by McCall's 5547. I adored in her "American Idol" and even more so now.  I think she sings so more beautifully than the ones in the current mainstream of popular mainstream.

Jennifer in this year's Grammy Awards.

Hilary Swank would loo like a Milliondollar Babe and not one of the boys in a Kwik Sew 3474.

At this years Screen Actors' Guild (SAG) in Versace

Fashion-model turned actress Cicely Tyson still looking fabulous in a Butterick dress.  I recall my mom adoring her back in the 1970's. Her credits include the soap opera The Guiding Light (1966), "A Man Called Adam" (also from 1966, with Sammy Davis, Jr), The Autobiography of Miss Jane Pittman (1974), and a 1994-1995 TV series called "Sweet Justice" in which she played a feisty lawyer. In 1972, she was nominated for her performance in "Sounder".

Ms. Tyson is looking still looking fashion-model fabulous at 77.

Former supermarket employee, a Grease 2 star, and a three-time Oscar nominated Michelle Pfeiffer can charm more than those fabulous baker boys wearing a wrap dress from Butterick.

Here's "The Tourist" in red, Mrs Angelina Pitt, Vogue 8706

Angelina in Versace at this year's Golden Globe.

Jennifer Lawrence is currently nominated for "Winter's Bone" and she is a vision of spring in Vogue 1199.

Eagle Eye's and Men in Black's stunning Rosario Dawson in Vogue 8771.

Pretty Lady Julia Roberts can deliver and not just some "Mystic Pizza" in Vogue 1222 by Anne Klein

or in a Vogue 1169 by Rebecca Taylor

In a Stella McCartney suit promoting Eat, Pray, Love:

At the Golden Globes in 2010:

Here's Legally Blonde Reese Witherspoon "Walking the Line" and seams for New Look.

Reese Witherspoon in Atlanta to help celebrate Avon’s 125th Anniversary during the 2011 Avon Global Believe Tour, January.

From "Star Trek: The Next Generation in 1991",  "Kiss the Girls" in 1996,   "Crossing Over" in 2009 and "Tooth Fairy" with the Rock in 2010, Ashley Judd can just be casual in a Burda knit top from February 2010.

At a charity event in 2003.

Avatar's  and Pirates of the Caribbean's Zoe Saldana at the center making ruffles very chic!

Butterick 5320's ruffled dresses

Zoe was also named “Face of the Future” by MaxMara and she did not have to be in Avatar blue!

Sanda Bullock can definitely wear a sheath dress like McCall's 5927.

With her "winning" look in last year's Oscar's for her performance in "The Blind Side". 

McCall's 5929 seems like a lovely shirt pattern. Bangs look fine on this model.

It's a "no" from me for the bangs on Sandra, especially on the red carpet.  She looks like Chrissy Hyndes from the rock/pop group "The Pretenders".

A vanilla creme colored sheath can focus on a woman's best features.

200(Nine) was the year for Penelope, with her movie "Nine". This gown can reach to the vanilla sky.

Sporting "big" hair in 2006.

Redheads like Nicole Kidman and Julianne Moore can wear a Vogue 1218 creme-colored dress. The ruffled neckline makes this dress distinctive.

Nicole Kidman, nominated for her Best Actress performance in "Rabbit Hole" attired in ruffles.

Oscar winner Halle Berry can wear something as daring as Vogue 1047 by Guy Laroche

or as demure as a dress by Bellville-Sassoon, Vogue 2880

She is more suited to attend a queen's ball, not a monster's ball when she won the Oscar in 2002.

Halle won lots of rave reviews in an Elle Saab gown this week.

Former beauty queen contestant, Halle can wear anything, even offbeat as this indescribable outfit at this year's Golden Globes and still look stunning. 

2010

Fashion flashback, a 1970's halter dress

Was this style inspired by Cher?

McCall's 6075 evening dresses.  With enough sparkling beads, jewels and other accessories, you can Mackie-ize your gown and channel your inner diva.  Viva La Diva!

Before Lady Gaga and Madonna, there was Cher.  Already what I call the "Cher Flair" was there.

Cher during a magazine photo sessions in the late 1960's and/or early 1970's??

1987 was a magical year for Cher.  She made a comeback with the hit "I Found Someone" and she won an Oscar for her performance in "Moonstruck".   She's one of the few singers who made a successful transition to the big screen.

February 2011's Burda is chanelling the glamourous Sophia Loren

Sophia won the best actress for "Two Women" in 1960.  Amy Winehouse was not quite successful with Sophia's coiffure.

This lady still looks sensational 5 decades later!

Simple Hollywood glamour inspired by starlets as Audrey Hepburn,

Grace Kelly, and Elizabeth Taylor.

 

Audrey won Best Actress for 1953's "Roman Holiday".  She was also nominated for Sabrina (1954), A Nun's Story (1959), Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961), and Wait Until Dark (1967).   She is definitely one of fashion's major style icons.

Grace with her award for Best Actress for "The Country Girl", 1954.  She was also nominated for Best Supporting Actress in 1953 for "Mogambo".

Liz" Taylor won Best Actress for her performances in "Butterfield 8" (1961) and "Who's Afraid of Virgina Woolf" (1966). She just turned 79 on the day of the Oscars.

No matter what style you prefer: dressy,

business-like

or casual,

You are a "star" in whatever you create!