Pip Pip Hooray for Halloween!

Heather was a "genie" on Halloween last year.  Her inspiration for Halloween this year is one of her favorite storybook characters, Pippi Longstocking, created by Astrid Lindgren,  a native of Vimmerby of Kalmar county, part of a province called Smaland in Sweden.  Heather's grandparents from her father's side also live in a small town that is about a 40-minute car drive from Vimmerby. 

Heather and Pippi at a little store in Kosta Boda, Sweden, summer of 2009

Kosta Boda glassware site

Heather liked the outfit on this Madame Alexander's 2000 version of Pippi doll that she wanted me to make a similar one for her.  Here's Pippi and her friend Mr. Nilsson .

 


Pippi and Mr. Nilsson, red-y for trick or treating

"Pippi" and Mr. Nilsson enjoying the sunshine on a Halloween afternoon.

For Heather's tunic, I used a girls' tunic/dress pattern from Burda.  Here is a girls' tunic/dress and pants in sizes 2-8. I enlarged the pattern to approximately a girl's size "10". The directions are better than typical Burda (from the magazine) due to helpful diagrams and clearer directions  Both were simple to sew.

For Heather's jumper, I used an easy McCall's pattern.   The pattern seems to run a size or two larger.  The straps need to be adjusted to raise the bodice for modesty.  Since this jumper was to be made as part of a costume, I decided to not adjust the straps further.  But maybe due to my fabric choice (fleece), the jumper seemed to "stretch".

Favorite Features of Burda 9627 tunic/dress
My daughter liked the overall style with in particular keyhole/lace tie neckline, the flared sleeves and loose tunic/dress style. My only dislike I attribute to my mistake for using a woven instead of a knit. Heather's only dislike was not related to her costume: it was some classmates that thought she was dressed as the "Wendy's" girl or Raggedy Ann.  The few students and an faculty member that recognized her as Pippi either read the book or watched the movie.

Heather dressed as Pippi just before going to school, Halloween morning

Fabric Used:
Linen-type woven, which was not one of the recommended fabrics (sweatshirt fabrics, jersey).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*Enlarged the pattern (additional seam allowance) to approximately a girl's size "10".

* Shortened the sleeve length

*Added a back zipper, so that my daughter can get her head through the neckline.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. For my daughter's next top or dress from this pattern, I will use a knit. I recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction which produces stylish basic coordinates for the young ladies. 

 Me, in Style Arc's "Franki" top and Heather as Pippi Longstocking, all "pipped" up for Halloween!

Conclusion:
My daughter plans to wear her Burda tunic/dress again after Halloween

Pink-A-Dilly

Revisiting a pattern two years later, out-of-print McCall's 5803, "Misses' tops and skirts: Fitted tops A, B have cut-in armholes, princess seams, front bands with ruffles, armhole facings and front button closure; top A has collar with collar band; top B has collar band..."

One that I found that closely resembles view "A" is an INC International Concepts top from 2 years ago.

"Think Pink" for Pinktober 2011. Three colleagues of mine have fought bravely against this disease and currently are survivors. I hope and pray for the cure.

I cut a "10" at the shoulders and a "12" elsewhere.   I used a printed cotton.

The Directions

They seemed much more understandable the second time around or two years after sewing my first top from this pattern.  I sewed view "A" which required 10 pieces: front, side front, back, side back, collar, collar band, front band, front ruffle, front armscye facing , and back armscye facing. 

What I learned from my first version was to: 
(1) cut 4 pieces of the front band (2 interfaced to attach to the front over the ruffle and 2 for the facings)

(2) cut two additional pieces of the ruffle to act as facings and hence, avoid the awkward and extensive hemming on large bias-cut pieces

(3) transfer all markings, cut out the notched triangles which help with aligning pieces together prior to sewing

(4) replace the armhole facings with bias binding made from the same fabric as the blouse.

(5) do lots of iron pressing for a smoother finish (especially at the front bands, collar/collar band and lower edge of the front ruffle)

First version, summer 2009

Heather and me at the county fair, summer of 2010

Favorite Features
I purchased this pattern two years ago for the sleeveless and ruffled front style.  The top is fairly simple to sew, especially if the front ruffles were omitted.  The top could also be made without the ruffles for a more casual look.

Modifications/Alterations:
*Facing the ruffles (instead of cutting 2 of the ruffle pieces, I cut 4) with the same fabric to avoid a narrow hem with "puffs and waves". However I needed to set my thread tension to "0" to be able to gather the top edge of each ruffle  that consisted of two layers of fabric due to it being self-faced.

*My usual 1" petite adjustment at the waist
*Instead of using the armhole facings, I cut two rectangular strips on the bias (approximately 20" in length, 1 3/4" width, stitched a seam joining the ends, right sides together, attached it from the inside and turned to the outside of the armscye and topstitched close to the edge.

*Topstitched the edges of the front bands instead of "slip-stitching" or handstitching the hem of the front facing to the front band on the "wrong" side of the blouse.


Recommendations
I plan to sew another top sans the ruffles.  Although it has been out of print, I recommend it.  This style seems to suit any figure type. 

Twisty Business

I have had this Simplicity pattern by Cynthia Rowley in my stash for months.  Once I found a suitable fabric, I took this pattern out of hiding.  I used the remaining Liberty of London Tana cotton lawn from my "Suede says" dress.  I sewed view "A" with the "twist" neckline. I sewed an "8" at the shoulders (should have used a "10" instead) and a "12" elsewhere. I still had to take in the sides to reduce the billowy effect.

 My neckline had a "cowl" effect after attaching that tricky twist band to the neckline. 

The Directions
The directions were satisfactory except for those that pertain to the twist band for the neckline.  I probably made the top more difficult that what it really is.  I sewed the shoulder and side seams and attached the bias bindings to the neckline and shoulders (sewn to the inside and topstitched on the outside of the top). When I arrived at the steps of the "twist" neckline, somebody encountered some "twists" of fury...

I spent more time fiddling with the "twist" neckline than sewing the entire top with the bias binding. The twist band is created from two rectangular pieces cut on the bias (front and back) joined at a seam along its width, stitched together lengthwise (right sides together), stopping 3" from each end. However, I cut the back piece on the cross-grain due to a fabric deficit. After turning the wide "tube" inside out, I experienced some uncertainty about the extent and the number of "twists". "Twist band four times" seemed straightforward until I actually started the twisting. Hmmm, either it was 4 half turns or 4 full turns. Fellow PR'ers Buttonfaith and Birdie suggested 4 turns and obtained lovely results. Despite how many and what type of turns I make: 4 half turns or 4 full turns, my neckband looked strange. I  have a suspicion that the incongruities of my neck band was due to not being able to cut its back piece on the bias.

Once I settled on 4 half turns (because it looked more manageable than the "twisted rope" look from the 4 "full" turns), I "opened out" the ends of the neckband and sewed the inner seam (right sides together) to close the "loop". The part that took the most time while sewing this top was attaching the neck band to obtain an "eye-pleasing" cascade of twists.

I nearly gave up on the neckline until I did a PR search on this pattern to read the earlier reviews of the gorgeous tops made by fellow PR sewists. I noticed that the twists vary among the tops, which add to the uniqueness of each top. With that in mind, I became inspired to try again, fiddling with fabric placement while maintaining a "twist" effect here and there, and adding a little fold to compensate for the longer length of my band. Although I was not completely satisfied with the final placement of the twist neckline due to not achieving an aesthetically pleasing result, I felt fortunate to at least be able to get the band to somehow "fit" onto the neckline. So I accepted the premise that there is no clear method to place the band on the neckline to obtain the desired results. Maybe some other "random" placement might work. Disney's show "So Random" (seems like a "younger" version of Saturday Night Live) now has its "twisted sister", "Sew Random." Enough of random thoughts!

Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features
* The top with bias finished armscyces and neckline is simple to sew.
* Versatile pattern with neckline and sleeve options

* Unclear directions on creation of twist neckline band and its placement along the neckline.

* My placement and attachment of the twist neckline band affected the "center ruching" of the neckline.  Hence, I experienced a "tug of wear" at my upper bust

* Even though the neckline took time for me to complete, it adds to the unique styling of the top.

Alternations/Modifications
*1" petite fold at waist

*Took in the side seams an additional 1/4"

*Shortened the bias strips for the armscyes to reduce positive ease.
*Created a tie belt in the same fabric

Recommendations
The top makes a nice camisole/tank sans the twist neck band. Even though I had some issues with the twist neck band, I still would recommend this pattern based on the sleeveless/round neck top that potentially provides many styling options.

If you have this pattern in your stash, give it a try.

Frock-sy Lady

Pattern Description:
Misses dress, jumpsuit and tunic top sewing pattern from the SUEDEsays Collection. I sewed the dress with the elasticized neckline and waist.   Its primary model number on the Simplicity website and catalog is #2179.

My pattern envelope showing the dress that I sewed

other pattern envelope showing the jumpsuit from the same pattern

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 4-6-8-10-12. I sewed a 10 at the shoulders and neckline, and a 14 elsewhere. I encountered some some extra ease in the bodice and skirt.

Fabric Used:
Liberty of London Tana cotton lawn, part of the "Liberty Rocks" collection, inspired by musical artists. The print of this fabric is inspired by international pop singer Emelia de Poret is really more vibrant than what it appears in the pictures of me wearing the dress. Ms. de Poret's sketch of "microphone heads" was transformed into this boldly colored fabric design in collaboration with a team of Liberty of London's designers.

This is closer to the actual vibrancy of the print

Fabric swatch and description on LOL website
LOL blog with a video clip showing behind-the-scenes collaboration of Emilia and textile design team



Instructions
They were fine with helpful illustrations.

There is a discrepancy between the cutting layout specified on the instruction sheet and the marked fabric grain (bias or cross-grain) on the skirt piece.  The layout shows the skirt pieces cut as two full pieces, one for the front and the same piece for the back. However, the directions on the piece is to cut four along the bias (at a 45 degree from the vertical grain) in order to create the center front and center back seams.  If I followed the bias, then I would not be able to fit the piece for my fabric with width 54".   So I followed the cutting layout and cut the front and back of the skirt each as one full piece to eliminate the center seams.

. 


Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features
Although I like the flutter sleeves, elasticized neck, elasticized waist, hooped buttoned front, and circle skirt, I feel that it is a style more suited for the younger.  But then it is nice to occasionally deviate from my current comfort zone and be fashionably fearless and adventurous.

Walking against the wind, making my skirt cling weirdly!

I regret not performing my usual petite adjusment at the waist, because the waistline fell an inch lower than I preferred.  Also, there was something odd about the way the dress draped along my sides and back, when I pulled the elasticized waistline, just above my hips: it emphasized my short waist and high hips, making me look more "matronly" which prompted me to use a belt.

"Back drape"

It is a fairly dress to construct (i.e. no zippers, lining, set-in sleeves). My main gripe is that pinning and stitching the circle skirt seemed like riding an eternal carousel.  Just when I thought I was nearly done stitching the hem, I was not even halfway done!  But the result is worth it: the fabric's drape coupled with the skirt's shape provide a dash of dramatic fluidity, adding to the dress's personality .

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*Lined each sleeve in the same fabric to avoid the visibility of the inside of topstitched hems.

*Omitted the bias finish at the armscye. I turned in a 3/8" hem to the inside and topstitched.

*Trimmed 1" from the length of the skirt


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Most likely I will not, due to its distinctive style and a growing queue of patterns that I intend to sew. I still recommend the dress because it is comfortable and feminine, without being too frilly.

Conclusion:
A dress suitable for many occasions.


I was able to adjust the pattern to create a dress for my 8 y.o. daughter.

Petallica

From the Simplicity website: "Misses' faux fur, fitted  and loose cut jackets sewing pattern." I sewed view "B" with a draped shawl-collar in a "10" at the shoulders, "12" at the armscye, and a "14" elsewhere.

Draped shawl collared jackets:

Tommy Bahama, leather jacket, $498

 

Vero ModaVery Washed Jacket, $143

Pencey V Blazer on Kim Kardashian , Singer22.com, $419

 

Design History, Zip front in merinowwool, $148

Rocky Monda by Mink Pink in 65% Cotton, 35% Polyester

threadsence.com, $69

Kimberly Ovitz Rikard Open Front Jacket

Karen Kane in spandex/jersey, $43

Directions
The instructions and diagrams were satisfactory, with occasional tangents to view "A", the shawl-collared jacket for common steps.


The two front of the jacket (largest piece) are connected via a center back seam. The directions state and show clearly in the diagrams and attached to the back section of the jacket at the neckline with pivot points (clipped and reinforced) center back seam and

Fabric Used:
A cotton in a funky print with a slight stretch from .ahem  from JoAnn's. I thought I play it safe and use less expensive fabric.


Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features
* I like the "draped shawl collar" or "shawl-collared draped front" and several other ways to describe this jacket as I discovered on the internet. I agree with the previous reviewer of this pattern in regards to how the front should drape. After letting my jacket "hang" or stay on a hanger overnight, I let the front "crease and drape" below a shawl collar/lapel (formed after some fiddling in front of the mirror).

* Princess-seams for a more flattering fit.

*The jacket overall is fairly simple, but somewhat time consuming to construct.

* The part that I thought was odd was after turning in the large front facing to the inside is how it is attached to the back of the neckline to the shoulder seams. After not being able to decipher Simplicity's instructions on how to handle this situation, I turned in the raw edges of the front facing about 5/8" (in the form of an upper half of a rectangle)and "slipstitched" or secured the hem with hand stitches, which seemed safer than "stitching in the ditches".

* Creating a lining with the back and side front/back pieces would seem to simplify the construction eliminating the need to slipstitch or handstitch the lower hem and to slipstitch the front/neck facing to the neckline and to the side seams.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*I performed my usual petite alterations above the waist (shortening by 1")

*I made a button front closure.

*I skipped the back rectangular tab. Although it looks like a sleek style feature, something similar to it did not work for me in the past.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, but not immediatlely, in a lightweight corduroy or denim. I recommend this pattern if you like princess-seamed jackets with an added detail and/or the other styles shown on the pattern envelope.

Conclusion:
Although I like the fit of this jacket, I still am uncertain about it. I'll see how it fares in another type of fabric.

The OWL-ter Limits

I purchased this pattern last month during a Simplicity sale at JoAnn's.  The ruffled front was endearing!  It is rare to come across appealing styles for the " 'tween " aged girls.  This is a Little Lisette Sew Your Style pattern for girls' blouses and skirts.   I sewed the view A top in a "10" out of the 7-8-10-12-14 for my 8 y.o. daughter.

Heather liked her first Lisette top with the "owls" print very much that she "requested" me to make another top in another bird themed fabric. The fabric is a "Tana" cotton lawn fabric from Liberty of London fabrics.  I ordered this and other fabric from the Liberty of  London UK website and paid nearly 35 USD a meter.  Also I had to reluctantly pay DHL (separate invoice) 17.2% of the declared value of the fabric order and a $6 disbursement fee.  This discourages me to purchase from overseas again due to high customs fees.

More information about this fabric and its artist.
http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/product/Liberty/Inspired-by-Musicians/Ornithology-C-Tana-Lawn-by-Edwyn-Collins-Liberty-Art-Fabrics/63656



Original post:

Hooooo-La-La!   Owls can be cute.

Keeping it Owl-in-the-Family

A Pair of "Tap Zoo" Owls

FOWL-lowing a trend, for Heather's top, I used an owl-printed 21-wale corduroy fabric from fabric.com

Directions
They are logical, clear, and nicely written, suitable for beginning sewists. The diagrams were sufficiently detailed to rely upon with minimal reading of the instructions.

If you are interested in knowing more about Lisette patterns such as for instance fit comparisons with other Simplicity patterns:
http://www.sewlisette.com/blog/2011/02/how-lisette-sewing-patterns-are-developed 


Favorite Features
* The three little tiers (upper, middle, lower) of ruffles at the center front of the top.

* Simple to make

* Sleeve options: flared or elasticized sleeves at the hems.

* Very age-appropriate

* Notches and other markings aligned nicely (i.e. attaching the bias neck binding to the neckline)

* "Lisette" tips  or clarification of a technique strategically placed after certain steps that could be helpful to beginning sewists (i.e. staystitching, gathering stitches, finishing a raw edge)

Other
*The flared sleeves came out inconveniently long (up to the knuckles). When I was about to shorten them, my daughter changed her mind, and is satisfied the way they are.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* Attached bias neck band from the inside, turning outwards and topstitching to the neckline. Because I self-faced all the strips to be used ruffles, I encoutered slightly extra "bulk" when finishing the front neckline where the upper ruffle was.

*To avoid narrowly hemming the edges of each ruffle, I cut a pair of strips for each level of ruffles (upper, middle, lower), so that one acts as a self-facing of each pair. I sewed each pair of strips right sides together, leaving an opening at the top edge. Then I turned each pair of strips inside out, lowered the machine tension, sewed the long and loose stitches along the top edge's seam allowance, pulled the ends to "gather", and adjusted accordingly while sewing each ruffle along the corresponding stitch markings to the center front of the blouse. 

* "Finish seams" are mentioned throughout the directions. I used topstitched seams for the sides and the center back. From the inside, I pressed each seam allowance to one side and sewed 1/8" from each raw edge of the seam.

* Closure at the center back: Instead of a "thread loop", I cut a 2" piece of 1/4" width elastic, folded it in half, stitched the ends together to form a "loop", inserting it to the left end of the bias "encased" neckline, and securing it with a few double stitches that also enclose the end of the neckline. 
*I used a button featuring a Beatrix Potter cat.

Recommendations
I plan to use this pattern again not only for the top but also for a new skirt for Heather. Also the top could be made without the ruffled front.  This pattern also seems like a "user-friendly" pattern suitable for beginning sewists introducing them to seemingly more advanced techniques (i.e. bias finish neckline, ruffles) in a non-intimidating manner.

I hope that Lisette produces more patterns for girls in the more 'tween age. It would be nice to have patterns for children in the elementary to middle school age bracket that are fun to wear for school and elsewhere and yet still be age appropriate.