A New Ten-sation

Being on a summer hiatus, what better time it is for a sew-cation!  Using a previously used Jalie, Kwik Sew, and a Butterick, and a new Vogue and Simplicity, I created 10 more garments (8 of which are pictured).

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Some current fashion trends and combinations of them: "cold-shoulder", batwings, cowl necks, scoop necks, mock wrap tops, maxi dresses, stripes, zig zag prints, ikat prints,

From Michael Kors, a "batwing" striped cold-shoulder top for $69.50 at Macys.com.

 From INC International Concepts, an "embellished" floral print top for $69.50 at Macys.com

Cold shoulder sweater top from Boston Proper, $69. Zig zag prints are getting more commonplace.

DKNYC Cold-shoulder top with cowl neck, $129

Melissa Knowles of "Trending Now", herself trending a red cold-shoulder top

Project #1, #2, and #3
"Thread and Shoulders"
I sewed 2 tops and a dress from Butterick 5645, view "D". I like the "cold shoulder" style.  The only changes beyond my typical petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing of the upper back, was increasing the shoulder width another inch (to prevent more slippage and to reduce the chance of a bra strap peeping out) and to stitch the two ends of the sleeve together to prevent the sleeve hems from showing.

 

I used a cotton knit from Fashionista Fabrics (same fabric as the Vogue mock wrap top when you scroll down a tad) that has been in my fabric stash for some time.  I was not too thrilled about the very droopy and drapy results that  decided to use a woven for my second version.

At the S.D. County Fair where my daughter had a performance at one of the little stages.  For my second top from this pattern, I used a rayon woven instead of a knit as recommended.  The "split-sleeve" is not visible from this photo.   The cowl style worked out fine in this fabric and better than my third version in a dress in a cotton woven (stiffer fabric causes lack of drape).

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Project #4
"Charlotte Ruched"

A Josie Natori mock wrap jersey top with gathered shoulders, originally for $295 at SaksFifthAvenue.com

Using a remnant of the first top I sewed from Butterick 5645, I sewed the long sleeve version Vogue 8390.  I did not face the left and right bodice (or cut two of each).  Following my "sew-tuition", I raised the neckline 1 1/4" tapering to 0" at the shoulders.   I used the "gift tissue" technique that I discovered from a sewing blog.  It adds more stability to the hem, but my only reservation is after detaching the tissue is picking off the residue left  in the stitches.  I still had the "wavy hem" with this cotton knit.  It is time for a coverstitch machine and/or a serger. Vogue 8390 is overall simple to sew, but not one of my favorite knit top patterns.
 

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Project #5:
"Cowl-ifornia Girl"
My "newly reliable" pattern Kwik Sew 3740.  My two earlier versions that I made nearly two months ago were short sleeved versions of the cowl neck. My third version is the long sleeved version in a Chico's knit from EmmaOneSock.com.

 

Although this was from Fall 2010, this cowl style is here to stay. From Nightcap Clothing, an 80% rayon/20% silk top, originally for $165, SaksFifthAvenue.com.

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Project #6:
"Getting E-ven"

I sewed two more tops from Butterick 5386.  Nearly a month ago,  I sewed the mock wrap top with the long sleeves and a scoop neck top, both using a Calvin Klein knit.  Recently,  I sewed a short sleeve version and a sleeveless version.

 For the short sleeve version I used a Chico's rayon/lycra knit, purchased from EmmaOneSock.com,

In addition to my typical adjustments, I shortened the sleeves an additional 1/2" and lowered the neckline 1/2" and slash and spread below the shoulders at most 1/2".

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Project #7:
"Gather Round Now"

Turning the beat around and back in time to what most likely seems like the mid 1970's.  I sewed a version closest to view "A", without the ruffles.

Oops! My right arm lifted a portion of the lower hem.

More details about this top:
http://groovy60ssewing.blogspot.com/2012/06/drawstring-and-big-sleeve-delight.html

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Project #8: "Sealed with a Twist"
There was a Simplicity $1.99 sale.  I purchased two girls' patterns from the SUEDE says collection and a few for yours truly. One that caught my eye on the display rack one of the pattern cabinets was Simplicity 1804 due to the zig zag dress with a twisted waist belt in the same fabric. My pattern envelope is the one on the left that I picked up from a promotional display rack.  The one on the right is from the website and is what I call the "pattern drawer" version.

I could not find a similar style as Simplicity's zig zag dress, but I found this zig zag maxi dress from Macys.com for originally $109.

I sewed the view with the zig-zag dress, except I shortened mine to knee-level.  Although I like the look of maxi dresses, I know it would not agree with me.  Due to the anticipated ease, I sewed a "12" instead of my typical "14" at the bust, waist, and hips. My shoulders fluctuate from an 8 to a 12.  I raised the neckline 2 inches, tapering to 0 inches at the shoulders.  I am glad that I made that alteration.  Otherwise, there would have been some unintentionally extensive exposure!  The neckline is still low, but modestly low.

I used a poly knit purchased from GorgeousFabrics.com.

 Trina Turk, 'Pebble' Chevron Striped Jersey Dress, Nordstrom.com, $368

I thought my hair was "unkempt" until I saw this model in a Miss Sixty dress at ASOS.com for $250.21

With my zig zag dress, I wore a pair of simulated turquoise earrings that I purchased with other goodies just recently at the county fair.  With Heather's "macrame" friendship bracelet, I paid $5.99 and tax.

Modifications
*As mentioned earlier raising the neckline 2" from the center tapering to 0" at the shoulders
*My typical petite and narrow back adjustments
*Shortened the dress approximately 4" above the cutting line.
*By personal preference so as not to compromise comfort, I omitted the elastic to be attached to the empire seam from the inside. The dress was already comfortable with the gathers above and below the empire seam and I did not want any more "bunching" to be formed by adding elastic.

Observations
*I should have cut a "14" for the twist belt, because it was somewhat constrictive. Now, that is some incentive to exercise more.
*I prefer waistline seam over an empire seam, which emphasizes my short torso and at times can elicit a question from my 9 year old that would pertain whether or not she will be having a sibling in the near future.

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Project #9
More "Ex-zag-geration"

Butterick 5386 has become another of my "newly reliable" tops.  This is my fourth top from this pattern.

Another top, but a sleeveless version of the scoop neck view.  I used the remaining fabric from Project #8, the zig-zag dress. I added a waistband at the lower edge for length and finished the neckline and armscyes strips from the same fabric, each with a width of 1 1/4". I sewed the seam of each strip, stitched its "right" side to the "wrong" side of each edge (neckline, armscye), turned the strip to the outside, folded in its raw edge tucked so that the visible folded was aligned close enough to the seam stitching so that it hides it from view, and top-stitched. 

Taking a cue from the zig zag trend,

 INC International Concepts in a "batik chevron" print for $49.50 at Macys.com

I wish I made the waistband a tad longer to better encircle the lower hem. However, the top would be more flattering at a longer length and without the banded bottom.

What remained of the zig zag fabric, not much...

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Project #10
"La Femme Petale"

Similar style from RTW:

Boston Proper top, $79

Simplicity 1805: Knit tops with dolman and raglan sleeve variations:

Using a remnant from a Jalie scarf collar top, I sewed view "A" with a sleeve modification.  I originally intended to sew the black top, but I decided to use leftovers from previous projects before delving into new fabric. If I had a tad more of this leftover floral fabric (from a Jalie scarf collar top) lengthwise, the top would have been an inch longer, which was what I preferred.

 

The final bust measurements show quite a bit of excess ease. 

Printed on the front and sleeve piece (#1):


Finished garment measurement, bust:
XXS: 34"
XS 36 1/2"
S 39"
M 43"

Comparing the dolman and raglan front pieces:

Due to fabric constraints, I cut an "XS" at the shoulders and sleeves instead of a "M" and was able to cut a "M" for the bust and sides.  However,  I encountered the air balloon effect after stitching the sleeve and side seams.  I took in an additional 3/4" seam from under the arms to the sides, or what was nearly equivalent to stitching the small size.  Due to the fabric,  I could have used the "XS".

I had made one of the tops with the raglan sleeves, I would have encountered an unflattering and shapeless top, or a true "box top"!

I sewed view "A", with a sleeve modification.  I sewed approximately a 2 inches seam joining the front and back at the shoulder and 2 inches from the lower edge of the sleeve.  Lengthwise between the two points at the upper arm, I folded approximately a 3/8" hem at each edge and topstitched, pivoting and stitching at the junctions of the front and back shoulder hems.   Then I topstitched a 5/8" hem at the lower edge of the sleeve. Voila, an instant split sleeve!

Now, I'll take a hiatus from sewing and enjoy the rest of the summer sight seeing and tidying up the home...