Thursday, June 07, 2012

Charlotte Ruched via Vogue 8790

To prevent me from purchasing more patterns, I sifted again through my "newer" pattern stash and decided to try Vogue 8790.  I sewed the long sleeve version, view "C".

Pattern Description:
"Close-fitting, pullover, mock wrap top has front extending into standing back collar and stitched hems.  A and B: narrow hem armholes and sleeves B."  I sewed a "12" instead of my usual "14" at the sides.







The RTW top closest in style that I found on SaksFifthAvenue.com was Lafayette 148 New York's draped top in a viscose jersey, that is currently on sale for $178, reduced from $298 (wow, what a deal...).  This top also has the ruched back seam at the collar  as Vogue 8790 does.



I used what seems like a cotton/rayon jersey.  The top is truly form-fitting, especially after I went down a size.  


Directions:
They were brief and supplemented with helpful diagrams. I relied on those diagrams to ensure the proper placement of fabric prior to stitching.

 I was particularly attentive to the...

*procedure for creating the ruched center back seam of the collar, attaching it to the back neckline and to the shoulders at the "pivot" points.  I was not able to precisely ease the collar (facing folded to the inside) onto the neckline/shoulder seam juncture  due to encountering a tad of "excess" fabric from the collar. 

*procedure for placing the left and front bodice before stitching the side seams with the back portion.  Working with three layers of fabric provides an added challenge to distributing evenly the side gathers and aligning them between the marked circles. 


Favorite Features and Not-So Favorite Features:
I am a fan of faux and true wrap tops and dresses.  I discover that after working with some patterns, there are particular style features when put together that do not seem to work harmoniously as I had hoped for.  For instance, I am not sure about the pairing of a folded front facing (starting from the collar) with side ruching or gathers.   This notion comes after spending some  time fiddling with the lower end of the front facing at each side and fiddling with the side gathers to make them aesthetically appealing on a short torso or a short-waisted figure.   The specified sewing level of "Very Easy" just changed to "Very Fussy"...



Modifications/Alterations
*Narrowed the upper back 1/2" at the center back (1" total width)  tapering to 0" at the center back.

*Even after my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waist, I removed 1 1/2" from the lower edge, which resulted in adjusting the side gathers and moving them upward prior to pinning the front bodice pieces to the back and stitching the side seams.  I could not wear the side drape low as pictured on the pattern envelope or as low as the Lafayette top.

*To reduce the looseness of the front facing at the waistline/sides, I trimmed 1/2" from each end  before stitching the side seams.  

*Unless I missed this step in the directions, I machine basted the left and front bodice at the lower edge before hemming the entire top. 


Recommendations
Although the pattern did not work for me as drafted or "straight out of the envelope", it is a fairly simple top to sew.  Beware the length of the top, especially if you are like me who does not possess a long torso.  Since I have several patterns for surplice tops (new and previously used),  I am not certain if I will sew this one again. If you have this pattern in your stash, give it a try and see if it works for you or, make it work for you.




4 comments:

  1. All of your fiddling and alterations certainly worked - looks great on you. Love the happy fabric.

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  2. I love it! Actually, I like anything with happy colors.

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  3. Thank you so much for your detailed reviews. You just found another follower! :))

    ReplyDelete
  4. Pretty top-I love the colors. All your fussing worked:)

    ReplyDelete

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