Tool time and Pattern Wish Time

From page 35 of the September 2011 issue of Burda Style: "The lovely blouse with dirndl-style neckline and long puffed sleeves..."    This pattern comes in Burda misses' 44-52.

 

Pattern schematic drawing

Fabric Used:

Printed cotton from fabric.com.

 

Pattern Instructions

Rebellious me, barely referred to them, and relied on my experience from making tops with gathered necklines and tops with front facings and buttonholes. At first glance, my initial reaction was "Huh?" because the instructions seemed overwhelming. After reading all of them once, they are really logically sequenced and are adequate for advanced beginners and beyond.


Before tracing the pattern pieces, I outlined each piece with my handy-dandy highlighter making it so much easier for my eyes to delineate among the convoluted roadmap of curves! I used a transparent type of gift wrap tissue paper (i.e. Michael's craft store), taping sheets together for tracing "longer" pattern pieces.


Favorite Features
*Fairly simple to sew

* I like the drawstring neckline which I replaced with an elasticized neckline, which raises the intimidatingly low neckline.

*I like the fit of the top at the waist and hips due to the contours at the sides, and the front and back darts. I just need to take in sides just above the lower hem, because they flared out slightly more than I wanted.

*I was relieved to not encounter "extra fabric" below the
 back of my neck or at my upper back.

* After being a faithful Burda subscriber for several years, I am seeing blends of past or familiar styles in a new issue. This top echoes the style elements favorite tops that I have sewn from previous Burda WOF and/or Burda Style issues.


Not-so-favorite Features
*Because I did not seem to add enough seam allowance to the armscye, my top was narrow at my shoulders.  I have often experienced blouses/tops being wide at the shoulders and/or upper back.

*Also I did not anticipate the sleeves to still be slightly short, especially after adding 1" while I traced the sleeve pattern.


Pattern alterations/modifications
*Since I usually sew a "40" at the waist hips, I did not add a seam allowance to the "44" that I traced.

*Lowered shoulder seams, to approximate my usual "38" at the shoulders.

* Performed my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waistline.

*Used the back darts to reduce the "puffiness" at my waist and hips.
*Because I did not have enough fabric for a bias binding to encase the neckline, I turned in a 3/8" hem (with the raw edge turned under) and topstitched the edge to create a casing for 1/4" elastic instead of a pair of drawstrings (from the same fabric) to be inserted. 

*Replaced the sleeve bands with elasticized casings (3/8" topstitched hem, elastic with 1/4" width).

*Omitted the sleeve vents and sleeve ties.

My daughter captured me in one of my embarrassing "Huh?" moments

Recommendations
After a few more "tweaks, I'll give this pattern another try, hoping to make this my "new favorite" pattern.  I still recommend this pattern, mainly due to the ease of construction if you modify the neckline and sleeve details. I advise making a muslin or trial version and make any necessary adjustments.

Wow!
Just three pattern pieces to cut: front, back, and sleeve!

I really like this issue of Burda Style! 

It has been awhile that I can honestly say that Burda magazine packed with fun and fashion! Here are the ones I hope to make, if I have the time.

The neckline of this dress is definitely eye-catching!

 

I like the simplicity and color-blocking of this tunic.

Something forceful, yet still feminine with the flounces

Something for my daughter

Two luscious colors and two classics that coordinate nicely together.

 

Preppy appeal with a stripe knit top and a mini

 

I am not sure about Burda's title of this ensemble.

A cape would be fun to make.  I would skip the embroidery and the fringes to keep it simple.

 

This will be my next Burda Style project when the time arises.  I like the details and silhouette of this jacket, but with some added length to keep things in proportion.

Meow-valous