Foxes and Apples

There's something about wrap-style tops and dresses: they flatter any figure and add a distinctive verve to an outfit. I just found the opportunity to sew this McCall's pattern not just once, but twice after being in my stash for a year. It is described as "close-fitting" with a neckband, sleeve and hem length variation forms draped knot through opening

Pattern Sizing: XS- XXL. I sewed between a small and a medium, yielding a different fit for the 2 tops I sewed due to the knits used.

First version is in a viscose knit (purchased from emmaonesock.com) printed with white foxes on a black background  Second version in a rayon lycra knit (also from emmaonesock.com) with apples print.

The first top is looser fitting due to the viscose knit being softer and "airier" than the rayon lycra.


Instructions
After I scanned the instructions for an overview of the steps, I was at first intimidated by the construction of the front "twist" below the waist. The diagrams helped along with matching the notches. when connecting the bodice to the "peplum" piece If you have sewn tops with a twist front at the bust, it is the same concept where one end is passed through a small opening of the other end and looped back. The tricky part, as mentioned in other reviews is stitching the hem at the lower edge of the front and around the slit, prior to the stitching the seam between the bodice and the front peplum.

Here is the front piece. On top of a tape dispenser, canned goods, I also used bottles of spaghetti sauce and containers of vitamins as pattern weights instead of pins galore to cut the fabric! It worked well! Below the left can and tape dispenser, you could see the two circles I marked gently onto the fabric. After a few "reinforcement" stitches at those points, I clipped a slit below each point and stitched a narrow hem between each pair of them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

*The asymmetric waist and draping below the waist flatters any figure, camouflaging my physical waves as well as my stitching imperfections at the hem around the "slit".

*Once I sewed my first version, I was able to sew my second one more easily, with a change in the construction of the front hem.

*The pattern was adaptable to create a sleeveless version by using customized width and length of strips to finish the armholes.

*The challenge is construction of the hem around the "slit" (the "U"). I followed a method explain by another reviewer for my second version.

*Even after sewing the two tops, the front hem has a tendency to curl under due to the fabric bunching at the hole, which does not bother me, attributing this as a "design feature".


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Both versions, lowered the neckline 1/2" from the center performed my adjustments to reduce width from the center back and length at the waistline

For the first (short sleeved) version:

*omitted the neckband and due to the workable nature of the knit, turned in narrow hem, hiding the raw edge, and stitched close to the edge
*sewed sleeves flat before stitching side seams

For the second (sleeveless) version

*Special thanks to fellow PR-er KarenMuse on how to finish the front hem, especially at the "U" portion around the slit.

*Stitched a strip of fabric alongside the edge, right sides together, turn strip to inside, fold tucking raw edge underneath, press and stitch.

*I used Megan Nielsen's Neck Binding Method for the neckline and armholes, in which I stitched a strip of fabric alongside the edge the right side of the strip to the inside of the edge together, turn strip to the outside, fold tucking raw edge underneath, press and stitch.  

*Tacked the edge of the "faux" knot just outside the hole to keep the bunched edge of the fabric from turning upwards.

*Lined the edges of the armholes with strips of fabrics

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes sometime soon, I plan to sew a top with longer sleeves as the cooler weather approaches. I recommend this pattern, keeping in mind the stretch of the fabric affects the overall fit and drape as noted in my two versions. Once you sew one, you might want to sew another!



Conclusion:
The draped and twist style below the waist is flattering. Once you sew one, you might want to sew another!