Purple Reigns Again

The minute I saw this jacket from the January issue, I wanted to sew it immediately! Now that I have a 4 week vacation from work, I found the opportunity to sew this.

If I had to summarize my experience with this pattern it would be, "One step forward, then one step back". I humbly confess that I probably made every mistake imaginable that warranted constant use of my handy-dandy seam ripper.

Pattern Description
Rating: Three Dots

"Let the sunshine in! The yellow luxury fabric highlights the clean cut of the double-breasted jacket with cuffed 3/4-length sleeves, rounded collar, and self-fabric belt. A knee-length pencil skirt of the same fabric joins the jacket for a sporty-feminine costume/ suit." My version is more like "I Heard It Through the Grapevine."


Size
I traced and cut a Burda "40".




Fabric
For my first/muslin version, I used a rayon linen from Fashionista Fabrics. This was left over from a New Look shirt.


Favorite Features
*Pleated sleeve caps
*Double breasted style


Not-so-favorite Features
*Really roomy bodice which necessitated a belt to cinch the waist. I probably would have gotten away with a "38", but still a 40 at the shoulders. This time, I found the shoulder width a little narrow for me. Possible cause: tracer's error.

* If only I was able to fully understand the ambiguous directions! I almost gave up on this jacket due to my many misinterpretations (which caused my dependance upon the seam ripper).


Pattern Pieces
Come on, come on, come on trace it!
Trace another little piece of my Burda WOF

There was extensive fabric cutting which I had anticipated after tracing the pieces a month ago. As mentioned in the "cutting layout" section, there were pattern pieces that were embedded in the main front portion of the jacket. For instance, I traced (with seam allowances) and cut the front facing, front lining and pocket pieces that were drawn in the front piece.

To make the cutting task more motivational and fun, I put on some background music: 1982's "Success Has Not Spoiled Me Yet" by Australian-American rocker Rick Springfield (still lookin' good and touring at 59). His website has some good-length samples to listen from his current (reminiscent of 70's rock) album while you are reading this. My favorite new song is "She" which is very Beatles'-Sgt Pepper's sounding. From Amazon.com (wow...free shipping), I purchased some CD's to replace some worn-out vinyls, cassettes, and 8-track tapes in my collection. The 80's has never sounded this good in a long time. Precautionary note: rocking out can cause some cutting errors...


Directions
Burda WOF is two-faced. It can be sparse and cryptic and it can be verbose and still be cryptic. Despite being lengthy and detailed for a Burda WOF (4 columns worth of directions with technical drawings and cutting layout), I was baffled and frustrated by certain steps (i.e. welt pockets) due to the lack of illustrations.

The WELT-To-Do
It would have been delightful if Burda assigned this "exclusive design" as the "sewing course" of the month! I spent the most time deciphering the construction for the welts with the built-in belt-carriers which reminds me of two "cell phone" cases sewn onto the front of the jacket. I experienced major difficulty in situating the welt and fabric pocket piece before stitching along the marked stitch lines on the top. I did not see a mention (unless my eyes deceived me) of where the pocket lining was to be situated prior to stitching, so I assumed that it was to be sewn over the welt.


Welt with error: I forgot to sew the bottom seam. So I had to remove the basting stitches on the lower side edge, turn the outside in and stitch the bottom edge.

Placement of welt and pocket piece:

Placement of lining piece over welt:

Sewing the pocket lining piece from the inside of the jacket (as directed by Burda):


Just as I had done with Heather's peacoat-styled jacket, I should have used Kenneth King's method for single welt-pockets that he fully described in his Cool Couture book. I persisted in using the method described in Burda WOF and came to the conclusion that Kenneth's method is sleeker in minimizing the bulk in the corners (and elsewhere) after slashing between the two stitched rows formed by the welt and pocket piece.


Collar, Are You There?
Since the big collar pieces had a unique C-curve to them, I was somewhat uncertain as to how to attach the nearly "elliptical" collar stands to them. From what I saw, each collar piece would have to "surround" the collar stand. So, I took a leap of faith and matched up the curves, taking into account how the collar will appear on the neckline. I did not recall (unless my eyes deceived me again) seeing on the pattern sheet additonal symbols where the pieces would align.

I had to use my seam ripper because I stitched beyond the lapel (curved portion next to the collar band). Other than that the collar construction and application was straightforward. Even though I am familiar with collars and facings, I was still confused by the verbosity of the directions. It would have been better if Burda mentioned, "Place entire collar with stand on the neckline with facing over it." Up to this point, the back facing had been unattached to the neckline of the jacket and the front facing nearly fully attached (sewed the neckline up to a certain point that I somehow missed to mark on my pattern piece!).

I "sandwiched" the entire collar between the neckline of the jacket and the facing (= little back facing and two large front facings). The under collar with its stand was sewn directly on the neckline of the jacket and the top collar with its stand (over the under collar) was beneath the facing.


Liner Notes
I made sure that I cut the front lining piece sans the front facing and the back lining piece sans the back facing, but with the ease pleat (additional 2 cm). Since the sleeve lining pieces did not have the upper pleats, I cut the sleeve lining pieces from the sleeve pattern pieces with the pleats pinned pinned in place (per Burda directions) to avoid the pleats in the sleeve lining. Since I already spent quite a bit of time on this jacket that, I decided to to use my swift and familiar "bagging" technique. One of my next goals to take my sewing to the next level is to use a couture technique for lining construction. Just a note to myself: not to sew when you are tired. I realized later that after sewing the lining to the jacket, right sides together and turning the jacket inside out, the wrong side of the lining (back pleats showing) stared at me. I was too tired to reach for the seam ripper...


Modifications
* Redrafted my own belt from left over fabric (4 1/2 width). I added a temporary "D" ring for decorative purposes.

*Omitted the sleeve vents and cuffs. I like the look of the sleeves the way they are.


Conclusion
I most likely will not use this pattern again, since I have more to try in my stash. I would have to redraft it if I want to eliminate the belt.

You might be able to breeze through this pattern and not encounter any ambiguous sections while reading the directions. I would recommend this pattern due to its classic styling and if you are up to the challenge.

March 14, 2003, 12:15 a.m.

After enumerating the months, days, minutes
And seconds to the infinitesimal mind-swirl..
The time has arrived for a little soul and being
To make her offical debut to the world...







A vivacious and lovable being
A little flower, a precious jewel...
God's loving creation
For the first time, I felt an abundance of
Love and joy, a spiritual renewal...





From the moment I saw and held you,
I immediately recognized two features
That can captivate, delight,
And mesmerize...
They also reveal so much about how you view
And how you can influence the world,
They are are your eyes...




Distinctively large as to be perceptive and inquisitive,



Instinctively large as to be receptive and sensitive...



Intellect and compassion
They fully display

They remain the same
To this very special day....










We are very blessed to have you in our lives,
Happy 6th Birthday, Heather Marie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






Love,
Mommy and Daddy.....

Plaid to Meet You!

The mad for plaid trend is arriving full bloom for spring 2009!



Burda website





Heather eagerly chose this jacket from the children's section in Burda WOF, January 2009.

For the little ladies from Juicy Couture:


From Nordy's, a plaid wool jacket for $358.

From Neiman Marcus, a cropped jacket for $148.




P-P-P-P-Plaid to the Bone!



Since Heather is working with rhyming words in kindergarten. I associated "plaid" with "mad" pointing to a popular 80's song that came to mind, "I'm Plaid (Mad) About You...."


I just completed sewing Heather's new peacoat. She adores it!

I'm Mad About Plaid! Plaid About You!!!!!!!!!!!!


Pattern Description
"Her favourite new jacket is not only comfortable and easy to mix and match – its decorative jeans-style topstitching and the double-breasted front also look great."

Size
Height in cm: 104, 110, 116, 122. I sewed a 116 based on her height. In terms of fit, the jacket seemed two sizes larger for her. After looking again at the Burda models, the jacket seemd drafted to be unstructured and slouchy.



Fabric
Tahari glen plaid from Fashionista Fabrics.
a Tahari Glen Plaid dress from Overstock.com



Favorite Features
*Well-drafted. The pieces went together nicely.
*Peacoat style
*Raglan styled sleeves (two-piece sleeve)
*Back yoke with pleat just below it.


Not-so-favorite features
*Confusing directions for the welt pockets. Used Kenneth King's method for "Foolproof Single-Welt Pockets" from his "Cool Couture" book.

*Aligning the plaids.

Directions
Directions were easy to follow (except the convoluted ones for welt pocket for another pattern in the same issue), especially if you are familiar sewing a raglan shirt or jacket.

I paced myself, setting a goal for each day I have available to sew. I have a habit of wanting to finish everything in one day!

Day One
* Traced and cut all pattern pieces including the pieces to be measured such as the back loop and the welt and pockets.
* Interfaced the two center fronts and one collar piece.

Day Two
* Cut the fabric and lining pieces (side front, back, front sleeve, back sleeve.
* Prepared and attached the welt pockets to the side fronts, using Kenneth King's method described in "Modifications" section below.




Day Three
* Basted the back pleat and prepared the back loop and basted it to the center back.
* Sewed the back yoke to the the lower back portion containing the pleat and the loop.
* Sewed the front sleeve to the upper curved portion of the side front and the back sleeves to the upper curved portion of the back.
* Joined each front section to the corresponding back section at the seam underneath the sleeves and the at the sides as one continuous seam.
* Sewed the interfaced center front to the sides front.
* Prepared the collar and basted it to the neckline.

Day Four
* Prepared the lining in the same way as the visible jacket, sans the yoke.
* Attached the lining along the front edges, neckline, and lower edges. Instead of leaving an opening on the bottom to turn the jacket inside out, I left a 4" opening at the side through which to gently pull the garment through. Then I carefully slip-stitched the opening.
* Stitched the 6 buttonholes and attached the buttons.
* Finished the sleeve lining edge with a 1/8" seam allowance, tucked under an additional 3/8" seam allowance, and handstitched it to the sleeve's finished edge.


Modifications
* Instead of at the beginning of construction (just after cutting the fabric pieces), stitched the center fronts to the side fronts just before attaching the collar.

From Olliebollen, a Catimini wool manteau for $149 The welt/pocket flaps are downward.


*Used Kenneth King's method for "Foolproof Single-Welt Pockets" from his "Cool Couture" book. I situated my welts upward instead of downward on the markings so that the pocket flaps will face downward after stitching, slashing, sewing the pockets and turning them to the underside of the side fronts. After scrolling down a little, here are more information and pictures that provide an overview of Kenneth's nicely detailed method that started on page 89. I highly recommend this book!

*Omitted all topstitching.

*I was remiss in omitting the lower hem allowance for the center front and front facings. So the jacket ended up being about an inch shorter in length.


Conclusion
Can you sew them, sew right through them....It doesn't matter what they say, even if the fabric frays, hey, hey, hey... Our Seams are Sealed

I made one final press of the collar and the center front to maintaing the crease for the lapels.

My first impression of Heather's new jacket was "That seems to be 2 sizes large for her!" However, it did pass the "grandma" test. Grandma (my mom) adored the style and asked me to make another one for Heather! Now I appreciate that the jacket really had that retro "swing" style. I later noticed its cape-like style which makes it more endearing.

I am not sure if I will sew this again, but if I do, I would probably use a lightweight denim for a casual look. It really is simple to sew, although time consuming due to details such as welt pockets, collar, and lining. Nevertheless, I highly recommend this as a first time Burda WOF lined jacket because it is very well drafted and the directions are concise and clear (except for the welt pockets borrowed from another pattern) in comparison to other BWOF patterns.

More "affordable" RTW from Nine West:


From Macy's for $129:



From a high-end online store for $149:

Sisterly Love!

Thank you Meg of the Closet Seamstress and Ann of Gorgeous Things for nominating me for the sisterhood award! You are too kind!



The rules of this award are:

1. Put the logo on your blog or post.
2. Nominate at least 10 blogs which show great Attitude and/or Gratitude!
3. Be sure to link to your nominees within your post.
4. Let them know that they have received this award by commenting on their blog.
5. Share the love and link to the person from whom you received your award.

There are so many super ladies out there! They exhibit style, fun, and lots of heart! These 10 might have already picked up a sisterhood award. But I hope they feel further honored by another one!
In no particular order, here they are....

1. Kathy
2. Michelle.
3. Kym
4. Bonnie
5. Lesalicious
6. Trena
8. Sherril
9. Melissa
10. Michelle L.
11. Silje's Fashion

Stop Zagging My Heart Around

I can fly like an eagle with these sleeves!





Am I chanelling the Queen of Boho Chic, Stevie Nicks?




Or could it be Galadriel from the lord of the rings? It must be those butterfly sleeves!



My pattern envelope, purchased from le Wal Marche has the human model wearing the tunic.
My New Look envelope




Tory Burch's Stephanie style tunic with those flare sleeves

The tunic shirts are in for spring!
Come on, $395 for a tunic you can easily create? I can understand $39.50, but $395?



Tory Burch's V-necked Ksenia



Tory Burch's Embroidered Stephanie


You just have to see this one! :
Mary Kate's and Ashley's missing sister in a pullover from Nordy's



Pattern Description
There was no actual description, except "misses 7 sizes in one."
My description is long-sleeved or sleeveless tunic with optional front trim and a sleeveless dress. The neckline is finished with a front and back facing.

Sizes
Misses' 10-22. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips.

Fabric
Printed rayon from Fashionista Fabrics. Another nice fabric to work with! Melody has the coolest fabrics!

Favorite Features
* 70's tunic style. Since I was going for this style, I did not shorten it.
* Flattering silhouette
* Bust darts
* Pattern pieces consited of the front, back, sleeve, front facing, and back facing.
* Very easy to sew

Less Favorite Features
* Long sleeves that resembled big butterfly wings! I found them overpowering!

* The front split tended to droop and possibly called for a heavier interfacing for more stability.

* The front facing needed to be shortened to reduce bulk.

* Side zipper would be needed due to the tunic really being form fitted, not loose and billowy.

* I could have omitted the front center seam by cutting the front piece as one single piece at the center fold. With the center seam, I sewed up to the marked dot (or in my case, above the dot to modify the length of the front center split or the "V"). If I had omitted the center seam, I could have snipped from the top center of the front neckine to the desired length of the split or opening and reinforce stitch the vertex.

* Boo hoo....I was not able to match the chevron pattern at the front center seams. I could have worked with a solid fabric to simplify things!


Directions
Although I glanced at them, they seemed sufficiently clear with good illustrations with no surprises.

Summary of steps:
* Used fusible interfacing for the the front and back facing
* Staystiched the front and back necklines
* Sewed the bust darts. I omitted the back vertical darts.
* Sewed the front center seam up to a point designating the vertex of the "V" or the start of the center split.
* Sewed the front to the back at the shoulders.
* Sewed the side seams
* Sewed the front and back facing at the shoulders and finished the edges.
* Sewed the entire facing over the neckline, right sides together while matching the edges of the "V" to front facing.
* Tacked the facing to the shoulder seams.
* Set-in the sleeves
* Finished the lower hem.


Modifications
*Omitted the back darts and the side zipper. I was able to pull the top over my head.

*Since the neckline split ran low, I raised it about 1 1/2" by stitching the front center seam beyond the dot.


Conclusion
This is really an easy-to-sew basic top that has a lot of potential. If you do intend to sew the tops or the dress, be wary of the depth of the center front split or "V" and the flare of the sleeves. I could have added elastic to cinch the lower edges of the sleeves.

Since I found that this top was fitted on me, I easily could envision this top in a knit.

I plan not to sew this top again because it is quite distinctive. I have more patterns to try!

I found out that Fleetwood Mac is on their "Unleashed" tour this year. At least I have something to wear for their May concert....

Prince in Purple and the King in an Eagle Jumpsuit

Kathy, if you are reading this, thank you for nominating me for the Creative Blogger Award! You are too kind! Me, creative? I cannot even draw stick people! Even Heather draws better than me!

I was seamin' when I wrote this. Forgive me if it goes astray...




Pattern Description
Misses Shirts - with collar, sleeve and cuff variations. I made View A. I noticed that just as pictured on the envelope, the shoulders are slightly dropped. It seems to be an intended style feature. So I sewed a "12" at the shoulders which resulted to be adequate for my liking, but still a little roomy for my shoulders.


Size
Misses' 10-22. I made a "12" at the shoulders and sleeves, tapering to a "14" at the hips.


Fabric
Rayon linen from Fashionista Fabrics




Favorite Features
*Vertical darts in the front and back
*Bust darts. I notice a strong correlation between bust darts and no drag lines and no bust darts and drag lines. My Hot Patterns shirt that I recently reviewed had no bust darts and drag lines...hmmmm....


Not-so-favorite Features
*As mentioned by fellow PR'ers, I did not care for certain pattern pieces printed with sizes in strange subgroups(i.e. 8,12 or 10, 14, etc). What a waste of extra tissue paper! It would have been convenient to include all or certain consecutive sizes on each piece, such as a 10-12-14 combination.

*Since I cut an estimated "12" at the shoulders and sleeves, I assumed that it was fine to cut a "12" for the front facing and the cuffs. Uh-oh. It ended up not being a wonderful idea. In stitching the front facing along the front edge and the neckline, the top edge the front facing (folded at the seam allowance), missed the shoulder seam by a tad! Also each cuff after encircling the lower edge of the sleeve did not intersect its starting point to form a "V", missing the vertex by 1 cm, thereby forming some sort of "U". I could have decreased the seam allowances of the cuff before turning them inside out.

*I find the collar to be unflattering for me due to its overall design. It has a tendency to stand upright and to creep along the back of my neck. Oh well, I did not inherit my mom's long and slender neck.


Directions
They are fine with good illustrations. I did not encounter problems in deciphering each step.




Modifications
* Since the shirt is really form fitting, I decreased the width of the front and back vertical darts which resulted in a little more ease. I was able to button the front with no problem.

*Omitted the topstitching in the front due to a personal style preference.

*Placed the top buttonhole slightly higher than originally for modesty. The neckline did not come as low as anticipated. It is wise to make a wearable muslin and adjust if necessary.

*I used 5 gold-colored buttons each embossed with a coat of arms emblem which look suitable on a uniform. I purchased these along with other fancy looking buttons that came in a ziploc bag from a Michael's craft store.


Conclusion
I can see why this pattern has many reviews! The shirt provides a flattering silhouette once you figure out fitting issues. Next time, I'll abandon the collar.



For some reason, I am having a vision of the King in his iconic eagle jumpsuit! It must be the upright collar, huge cuffs, and v-neck.



Maybe I'm paying a subliminal tribute to his 70's style along with Prince in all his purple glory. Strange.

Although the pattern envelope is marked "easy", it is easy to sew, but not quick. I spent the same amount with this "easy" pattern (maybe even more) as with those that have no rating! I still recommend this patten.

Heather's Burdie Peacoat, Part Deux

January 2009's Girl's Peacoat

I returned to work on Heather's new glen plaid peacoat several days later. Beyond the welt pocket construction, it seemed easy to construct!

* I basted the pleat of the lower back section and the back loop to the pleat.
* I attached the back yoke to the lower back section.
* I stitched the front sleeves to the upper front and the back sleeves to the upper back of the coat. Then I stitched each of the lower portions of the sleeves together, right sides together, and the side seams as one continuous seam.
* I basted the collar to the neckline.



The front and back of the coat in progress: