McCall-ey Flowers

A month ago, I made a dress from McCall's 6069 and kept it in hiding until I wore it out of the house recently.

Pattern Description:

Pullover, above mid-knee, semi-fittted straight dresses A, B, C have elastic waist casing, stitched hem and bodice variations; dress A is sleeveless; dress B has three-quarter sleeves; dress c is leeveless with self sash; dresses A, B, C have optional back strap; optional purchase belt.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses 6-14. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and at the draped neckline. I sewed a "14" elsewhere.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Fabric Used:

Polyester knit.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Things to take careful note would be the pleated markings on the front and back bodice, the fold lines, and the triangle marks where the optional back strap would be placed. As I was cutting the fabric, I cut out little extra notches or protruding triangles to represent the start and end of a pleat.

Special thanks to the delightful Catbird for her helpful reference to a tutorial for making those itty-bitty spaghetti straps or button loops without those loop turners (which I never obtained proficiency in using) and a safety pin, whose name is one of the biggest paradoxes.  I used this blog tutorial to create the back strap. It really does work!


Favorite Features
*The front and back drape. Although the back is a bit low than what I am accustomed to, I like its "daring-but-still-modest" style.

*The dress is not boxy or sack-like due to the elasticated or elasticized waistline at the junction of the bodice and skirt pieces.

* The slightly fitted style reminiscent of certain early 1960's sheath dresses. It seems to flatter any shape and size, especially one as not well proportioned as myself.

Questionable Features

There is nothing much to dislike, except for watching ...

(a) the length of the bodice, especially if you have a short torso. But the style is "forgiving" especially after adding the elastic to bring up the seam between the bodice and skirt portion.

(b) the low back revealing the back of your bra, which could easily be remedied by occasionally pulling down the back of your bra and pulling the front of the bodice a little forward, or simply using adhesive cups. Very long hair pushed to the back a la 70's Cher could help.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

My usual:

*One-inch petite adjustment at the length adjustment lines

* To shorten the upper back, I folded out an inch in alignment with the lower armscye.

*Instead of making an elastic casing, I sewed elastic directly to the seam allowance using the stretch and stitch method, since nobody would be able to see the non-encased elastic from the outside. I recall doing this for a New Look knit dress years ago. Also without a belt or sash, there would be less conspicious "bunching" than from using the casing method.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! Now that I sewed it once, it will be much easier. I highly recommend this pattern especially for beginners and/or as a "first" dress project.

Conclusion:

I became convinced to appreciate this dress after wearing it out of the house for the first time.  Although the sewing time for dress took longer than an hour for me, it is one of the "easiest" dresses to put together. For me, the cutting took longer than the sewing!

Photo taken by my 7 year old daughter

Calculus by the "C"

Coincidentally, what I like to currently wear are what I have sewn recentlly, especially at a conference that I recently attended at the University of San Diego (a private university).   Since mathematics is my subject area, I totally went "geometric". 

Here is a view from a top of a hill on the University of San Diego.  Although I have lived in San Diego for more than 3 decades,  I have not from this angle seen this lovely panaoramic view of the bay and other notable landmarks of the city such as the Coronado Bridge and the mission.  Photo taken by me.

I wore this Vogue 845 1(already out of print) knit top on Monday, the first day of the conference.  I also wore this at our most recent visit to the San Diego Wild Animal Park in Escondido, California.

I just recently completed a week-long conference called "AP (Advanced Placement) By the Sea" at the University of San Diego.   I took the initiative to sign up for the AP Calculus section, pay the $705 upfront (on-line registration), and fill out a request for a leave of absence form because I would be absent from my classroom for a week (school for our district had recently started).   Yup, budget cuts. For most conference goers from out of town or even out of state or out of country (i.e. Canada), their registration fees, lodging and travel expenses were already taken care of.  My main reason to sign up was to be able to justify to teach a high level course next year, after years of given at my current school  " imbalanced" teaching schedules especially this year with 4 sections of senior math (the equivalent of consumer math or the I-need-to-pass-this-math-class to graduate high school) and one section of Formal Geometry (my only good class).  On my course preference sheet, I have always offered to teach  high level math classes (i.e. pre-calculus and/or calculus) with the basic math classes.  But of course, those sheets have been ignored in my case.   As the second senior teacher in our department and after teaching for 20 years, I don't understand.  I think politics override teacher performance and longetivity. I will investigate further if the "men", one of them being a "buddy" of our principal are given special treatment.

 I wished the conference was at an earlier time frame, before the start of a new school year for our district, because I do not like missing even a day of work potentially putting the students behind in the curriculum. Hence, I rarely am absent from work (i.e. I did not take a day off the previous school year).  I recalled an email addressed to our math department sent by a substitute teacher with impressive qualifications. I called this gentleman ahead of time to request his availability for a teaching assignment for early August which consisted of 4 sections of Math 12 (many "challenging" students) and 1 section of Formal Geometry (my "sweet" class).  Without hesitation, he accepted the assignment.

 Before I drove to the conference each day this past week, I left specific lesson plans for the substitute teacher such as pre-written or typed notes on the transparencies, and copies of assignments for the students to work on.   He obviously followed the lesson plans and  left detailed reports of students' behavior and wrote referrals to those who were defiant and talked back to him. I could tell he had a rough time.  However, I am relieved to have found a substitute teacher that seemed to do what he can to get the students to be on task.

A view from the balcony of the Shiley Center for Science and Technology in USD, where the conference for the AP Calculus was situated.  Photo taken by me.

The entire week at USD seemed like taking a semester or maybe a year of high school Calculus compacted in a week.  The presenter was an energetic and enthusiastic lady who has been teaching for 32 years.  There were stacks of handouts that she went over.  She did not have time to go over the specifics on how to solve all problems, but touched upon key problems or exercises that would benefit the students who will take the AP Calculus AB exam in May. 

On Wednesday, I wore this top which was  based on a 1970's Butterick knit wrap dress pattern, that I transformed into a non-wrap top.

The AP exam in Calculus consists of multiple choice questions and "free-response" questions or what I call a "multi-step" problem given a set of conditions (i.e. a graph, equations, specific values of an a variable substituted into an integral equation....) followed by three, four, or five questions. It has been technically 20 years the last time I worked on problems that pertained to Calculus when I was in college. So, just like many of my students, I was somewhat perplexed or mystified on certain concepts the presenter covered. Maybe after teaching a Calculus class, I would feel more at ease. The "free-response" questions required students not only to show their calculations, but also to justify or explain their solutions or to interpret what the solution meant in words using appropriate vocabulary in Calculus. In a set of problems the presenter handed out for us to work on before returning the next day, I was able to solve one or two independently. For those that we were uncertain about, we were able to ask her to go over them in more detail. The presenter encouraged us to ask questions for clarification. I can see why her students earned top scores in the AP exams. Her upbeat personality with her extensive knowledge and helpfulness definitely would have a positive effect on her students.

Donald Shiley Center for Science and Technology Building.  Photo courtesy of USD

We had an hour of lunch each day already paid for with a USD "gift card" worth $40.  There were several places to choose from.   The Pavillion Dining at the student center was the main place to eat that offered a salad bar, Mexican, Asian, Mediterranean, All-American (hamburgers...), Italian, cuisine and more.  The ordering/catering area was crowded to the point I could not walk freely to look at what was being offered and make a selection.   The place was packed with visitors such as conference goers as myself, high school cheerleaders (most likely attending a form of cheerleading camp situated somewhere on this campus), foreigners (I heard French and other languages), and even families with children.  On Monday, I had two slices of pizza and a side order of salad for $5.  On Tuesday at a deli/market above the the Pavilion Dining, I had a Turkey club sandwich for about $7 and ate by a water fountain at a plaza area.  On Wednesday at the student center, I had  carnitas quesadilla with rice and beansfor about $7.  On Thursday, 8 (including myself) of the 24 conference attendees and the instructor ate at the classy La Gran Terraza restaurant that has a nice view overlooking the bay and city.   I had a salmon club sandwich for about $7.  On Friday, the last day of the conference, I had about $5.60 remaining and purchased a roast beef sandwich and paid aMinute Maid drink with my own cash.   The food overall was fine, although it does not beat my favorites:  Subway and Super Sergio's Mexican food. I was very satisfied with the conference,  although I don't think it was worth $700.  However  the experience and knowledge that I gained is priceless and will be very helpful for my current and future students.

Immaculata Catholic Church with the notable blue dome.  Photo courtesy of USD

An aerial view of  USD, and in particular the Immaculata Church (has the blue dome at the back) and closer to the front "The Garden of the Sea" with the Joan Kroc Institute for Peach and Justice building (brick colored little dome), a reflective pool,  and a nice lookout point of the San Diego bay (by the shaded trees at the south central portion shown in the photo) where I had lunch.  Photo courtesy of USD.

On Friday, the last day of the conference, enjoying lunch with a view at a patio area by the bluffs by a building called the Joan Kroc Institute for Peace and Justice.  Photo taken by me.

After a  pleasant lunch at the bluffs overlooking a nice view of the city.  The weather was wonderful!  Top courtesy of New Look 6145.  Photo taken by a very kind gardener using my camera.

Square Deal

Here is a "new look" of math books, bigger and thicker, but not necessarily better for our students.   I prefer the "older" textbooks that contain essential information without the fluff, gimmicks, and glitz.  Textbooks are big business nowadays. 

My daughter is wearing a Jalie 2788 twist top that I recently made. 

Here is misses' New Look 6415 (out of print), a pattern I had for more than six years.  I could not find the copyright date on the envelope in on the instruction sheets.  You could get a lot of "new looks" from this pattern. Something this little can give you so much.

Pattern Description:

New Look's ambiguous description: "11 pieces" and "six pieces in one".

My desciption: 5 views of a sleeveless top with 3 neckline options: ruched with bias binding, mock turtleneck with the ruching, and a cowl neck. There are two views with a banded tie bottom for a blouson style.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses' 8 - 18. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, and a "14" everywhere else. For this strange knit, a "12" everywhere else would have been more suitable.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

It was close enough.

Suggested Fabrics
Silks and silk types, crepe, jacquards, laundered silks/rayons. I would not recommend using a knit as I did. Maybe a more stable knit would have provided much better results.


Fabric Used:
Clearance rib-knit from Joann's. The eyecatching print lured me. But, sewing with it is another story. It's one of those knits that do not recover well after stitching. It is fine for making wearable muslins

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, they were more clear with the diagrams, considering that there were 2 main pattern pieces and the facings. Due to the simplicity of the pattern, I did not use them much.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the simplicity and versatility of this pattern. You could achieve countless looks by this pattern alone. I would not recommend sleeves unless you alter the depth of the armscye. A-hem, I know this after temporaily adding short sleeves cut from another pattern, and the top looked odd.

Most likely due to my unconventional fabric choice, I should have had gathered the back neckline as suggested by Eli.  There was some unexpected draping.  Taking in the back with some gathering and applying the bias neckband after shortening its length a little would have hopefully solved the problem.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

 *My usual petite adjustment at the waistline and upper back.

*Due to fabric constraints, instead of cutting the back as two pieces to form a center back seam, I cut it on a fold, taking into account the center back seam allowance.

*I reduced the ruching at the front and potential droop of the neckline by translating the center front fold past the lengthwise fold (approximately 3/8') of the fabric.

*After shortening the bias binding due to my neckline width adjustment, I sewed the binding to wrong side of the fabric and turned it over to the outside and topstitched with a narrow raw side tucked under. I wish I had done this with the armhole bindings. I highly recommend Linda L's method for this that she used for her version of this top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Definitely! This is a very simple top and I recommend it with a suitable fabric.

Conclusion:

I plan to make another and maybe another...

Den-im-Might

Denim is not just for jeans and jackets, but also for dresses! There are denim shirtdresses, denim sheath dresses, denim bandeau dresses, denim corset dresses, denim bustier dresses, ruffled denim dresses, denim tank dresses, denim zipper front dresses, and the list goes on.  My favorite dress back in the 1990's was a zip-front dress in a light weight denim that I purchased in the junior's department.  I wish I could wear one now, like I did back then. 


After my success in sewing a dress with a halter-style criss-cross back with  a 1966 Simplicity pattern, I thought I would sew a dress in a "style that I also have not worn in while", such a dress with a bandeau upper bodice and thin shoulder straps.

One of my favorite singers, adorable Carrie Underwood in a Jay Godfrey "Colorblock" denim dress with exposed zipper for an unbelievable $315 at TheTrendBoutique.com. 

Although I am not a fan of Kim Kardashian, here she is looking chic in a VOOM pinstriped denim dress by Joy Han.  Dress can be found at TheHipChick.com.

I just sewed a "knock-off" or "copy-cat" version of a bandeau denim dress.  The dress that inspired me was DKNYC's denim fitted dress sheath found in Macy's.com.

Betsey Johnson's denim jacquard dress with straps has a similar style.

I used McCall's 5881 view C for my inspiration dress, which consisted of four pattern pieces: the front bodice, the back bodice, the lower front, and lower back.  I cut two of the front bodice on a fold (one for the facing) and two pairs of the back bodice, one pair of which will form the back facing.  I used chalk and red pen to mark the bust darts and the darts on the front and back skirt pieces. 

Although I like the style of this dress, two drawbacks for me are that this dress displays my asymmetrical curves and emphasizes my vertically challenged torso, characteristics which I prefer to camouflage with print and/or unfitted styles! For now, one of this type of dress will do. However, I find that the bust runs a tad large, especially at the front.




But then, vivacious Niecy Nash, is an inspiration for women of all shapes and sizes.  I became an instant fan of hers after her appearance on Dancing With the Stars.

This is the entire upper bodice with the front facing and upper back facings, before turning inside out and understitching the edges. The white chalk marks signify the positions of the shoulder straps. I cut two strips, each being 1 1/2" in width and 16" in length. I folded each strip in half, right sides together and sewed a 1/4" seam. I performed the arduous task of turning the strips inside out, with a safety pin. I was nearly tempted to ditch this method in favor of just stitching lengthwise along the edge of an iron-pressed folded strip.

After some initial fittings, I changed the placement of the front ends and back ends of the straps. I also shortened each strap about an inch.

My experience with denim as often "frayed' my nerves. So I used some strips of fabric remnants to finish the seams. I did the best I can to hand-stitch or slip-stitch the folded edge of the facing to the inside seam. It was a challenge to deal with the puckers as I stitched.

I machine finished the edge,turned up and iron pressed a 1" hem instead of a 2" hem as directed.  I previously shortened the pattern by 3"

Conclusion.

Just a change in fabric and embellishments make this a versatile pattern to create "daytime" dresses and dramatic evening or formal attire.

The Blue Jean-ies

I promised Heather that she would get a new pair of jeans from Old Navy once her cast was removed.  She liked the fit of the Old Navy jeans she recently outgrew and could not wait to get a new pair.  It has been two weeks that she has been freed from the cast on June 23. 

Finding a pair of nice fitting jeans is not an easy task.  In Heather's case, jeans are usually very loose due to her slender build, with varying lengths.  Seven months ago, I sewed Jalie 2908.  However, she only wore them twice because at that time they were loose and long.  After being recently "discovered", they fit her better now after some "growing up".  This pattern is the closest to fit and style of her once favorite Old Navy Jeans.  I plan to sew her a new pair with "peace-heart" symbols on the back pockets.


Review of Jalie 2908 jeans pattern

Last winter:

I nearly purchased a pair of the ladies "Sweetheart" style closest to my size with the $19 price tag, but did not because I was not fully satisfied with the fit- the waistband situated a tad lower than what I preferred, and the legs- did not have the sleekness I was looking for in a "boot cut".   Now I plan to sew a pair of Jalie 2908 jeans for myself and another for my daughter!




Today, after we purchased a new pair of Old Navy jeans,  an argyle sweater, a pair of slippers, and three thermos-style sippers on clearance, Heather asked to be photographed by some "Old Navy kids", the "talking" mannequins that she sees in the commercials.  She is wearing a Jalie 2788 twist top and the Jalie 2908 jeans that fit her better now.

Heather poses by a "low maintenance" pup at the store.

Going blue/green with reusable shopping Old Navy tote bags.

A Fair-y Tale

Ruffles: little and big, are appearing not only on the center front,  on necklines, in tiers, but also asymmetrically on the sides, and...

 First column:upper top from Boston Proper top  for $89 and second top also from Boston Proper.

Second column: upper ($34) and center ($34) from ELLE from Kohls and lower picture from INC international Concepts for $49 from Macy's.


Third column; all from the Chaps ($36, $45, $35) collection from Kohl's.


Fourth column: upper picture, Milly's $245 top from Saks Fifth Avenue, center picture: Carolina Herrera's $1,190 ruffle top ffrom Neiman Marcus, and bottom pic at the lowest right: Aquilano Rimondi top from Neiman Marcus for $770.

...even on a pair of Marc Jacobs' bloomer/shorts, which seems to be suitable and adorable for little girls...

Although I am not introducing a new garment, I just want to share a recent experience with a top that I sewed a year ago from McCall's 5803.

Have you ever had the experience of sewing something in the past and not wearing it or wearing it only once, only to wear it a year or more later (after letting it be in hiding) and appreciating it more? Is this common?

Here is the link of my original blog entry about this pattern:

Ruffle-ly Speaking

This photo was taken on July of last year.

It's been two years since we visited our annual local county fair. Of course, my daughter was more thrilled than my husband and me combined.

Here's Heather and I "planting" ourselves in front of an exhibit at the Plant/Flower/Jacuzzi section.

I originally intended to wear a knit top, but this time, I wanted to wear something that would be in alignment with the ruffles trend this season. Even ruffled shower curtains are "in". The sleeveless or "cutaway" armhole style and the voile-type fabric seemed to be ideal for the arrival of warm and sunny weather after today's early morning overcast as mentioned by my husband. After a tad of shrinkage from the wash, I was surprised that the top fits me decently.

I plan to sew this top (one with and another without the ruffles) again very soon with the summer season still here. I also noticed that I did not need to perform the petite adjustment and it would be better to add 2" to the length to camouflage my short torso. I have had similar experiences with a few other McCall's tops or jackets.



Life is a Carousel, oh chum

My daughter and I rode the "Wave Swinger", a carousel supposedly identical (we are here somehwere...) to Michael J's version at his well known estate. I recommend this if you are into "flying" and "pendulum" motion rides with surprising speed. "Never" land on this type of ride especially if you have vertigo and/or fear of flights. My tolerance for "thrill'-ing rides is waning a bit. I was still disoriented for minutes well after disembarking from the swing.

I hope very soon to hop back on the sewing "carousel", after my completing my list of other projects. Although this pattern is now out-of-print just as the entire Hilary Duff line, I still recommend this pattern, but with a caution on sizing, especially for taller women. It seemed that Ms. Duff's patterns contain styles that are trendy now and potentially very wearable in future seasons.

It seems now I am seeing more variations of the recognizable Burda Style's JJ ruffled top in the fashion scene than when I initally saw the pattern two years ago. Using MJ's Wave Swinger pendulum ride as a metaphor, fashion styles travel to a sky-high upswing for a certain period and taper off to a momentary low and a stop. Then the fashion "wave cycle" repeats, beckoning more to take a ride.

Runway ruffle trend 2010

More Fun at the Fair

Before the Wave Swinger

A lady, upon exiting this ride, recommended to not get on this ride, especially directed at my daughter. She was nearly sick to her stomach. My husband and daughter are somehere here "riding the Storm". Heather cheated by closing her eyes most of the time during the ride. My husband also felt sorry for a man turning red after the middle of the ride. Fortunately, I originally opted to avoid this one, and take this video.

Night Owls
Father and daughter at a little Toyota exhibit. Heather is "test driving" a brand new Highlander. Approximate cost:  $30,000.

Eager Evening Rider
 I remember riding with Heather in a similar ride two years ago here and a "larger" version of this last year at Oland Amusement Park in Sweden. I reminded Heather to keep her neck firm and be bold.

View from a "ski-lift" overlooking a section of the fairgrounds.

Before Ten before ten in the evening, the fair's closing time. We are all tired, but still happy.