Sunday, January 02, 2011

One Hit One-Ders and a Remake

Happy New Year!  I hope that all of you had a nice 1/1/11 day!

I have the 1999 McCall's pattern (upper left) that I recently purchased from e*ay.  I have seen this pattern years ago, and recently was particularly inspired by our KnitMachineQueen (her blog is Smoking Needles) to get it!  I sewed a few of the Jallie "sweetheart" tops (lower right) three years ago. I find these styles of tops flatter every figure.



The One-Fit, One-Derrrr?


What a surprise! I found a similar looking style in this month's issue of Burdastyle. To celebrate this day, and to start my New Year's Re-SEW-lution, I found the courage and time to trace, cut, and sew #129 from the January 2011 issue of Burda Style (formerly BWOF).  I experienced difficulty in finding all 3 pieces on the page. So I highlit in bold yellow what I wanted to trace, adding seam allowances later. It helped a little. Yet, it was easy to go "off-track" and trace lines that belonged to another pattern. Now, I am discouraged to trace patterns that require more pieces!

I did not see a design difference between 129A and 129B, except for the color and fabric choice.

 My description:
Knit top with square neckline, a curved front hem,  and a mock bolero/shrug.


from page 40 of the magazine:
"...Every woman will feel feminine and sensual in this hip-length, long-sleeved top with low square neckline and tulip collar...








First version:
The pattern came in misses' 38-44.  I sewed "40".   The fabric that I used was left-over poly knit from a previous project. I thought that this pattern would whip up instantly with no problems. In my case, I was wrong! I should have used other "remnants" before using this fabric.  Unlike my common experiences with Burda, the neckline was the extreme opposite of the usual "plunge". In fact, I achieved what I called an ultra conservative version due to what seems to be blunders on my part. Before tracing, I noticed that the back seemed to be longer than the front, taking into consideration that the extension from the back piece would occupy the front or the "bolero" portion. Most likely, I simply "misaligned" the pieces somewhere...





**** I just read Christa's very helpful review of this pattern. Upon comparing the necklines, I "mysteriously" traced my neckline, higher than what it should have been, and also placed the front bodice at the upper edge instead of along the mock shrug piece, oops! Her neckline was lower, but still elegant, and mine was higher and restrictive.  

She inspired me to give this pattern one more try after figuring out specifically what I did incorrectly.
Second version, after figuring out the placement of the front bodice and the faux shrug portion, thanks to a fellow PR's review.


As for the directions when sewing the top for the first time....

*At first, they seemed brief, but straightforward, but while actually sewing the top, I encountered moments of uncertainty and nearly "fits" (double entendre) of fury!!!  There even seems to be the vital steps missing, such as how and where to join the shrug/bolero portion (coming out from the back piece) to the front, despite matching the corresponding seam numbers.  It was easy for me to put it "backwards" or to get things "twisted".   Sometimes I feel like a dimwit when it comes to seemingly "easy peasy" projects.

*****ALERT for first version in red/white knit fabric:
  I did not align the bodice correctly with respect to the extension of the back piece (the mock shrug/bolero portion), which seemed to contribute to the restrictive neckline.  Refer to  Christa's review.

Maybe this picture (excuse my frighteningly unfinished seams) well help somewhat to visualize the pieces attached together, keeping in mind that I sewed the sleeves "flat" instead of setting them as per the Burda instructions.
 
To keep the edges of the shrug/bolero from "slipping" and/or "curling", I topstitched them to the front of the bodice. Unless my eyes deceived me, there was no mention of a way to secure the shrug to the bodice. But then my use of elastic (1/8" in width) necessitated the topstitching.





*It is definitely "hip-length" as described. Personally, I like the top a bit longer for my proportions. For taller ladies, I see the possibility of the top landing on the midriffs? However, I did not alter the length of my second version is past hip-length due to the "corrected" placement of the front to the upper back piece.



Other Observations
From the first version (red and white):
* Even after thinking that I matched the corresponding markings and seam numbers, somehow my front piece was shorter than the back piece by 1 1/4". I figured that this was how much lower the neckline should be. However, if I lowered the front by this amount, then it would not align with the lower part of the armscye that led to a side seam. So, after sewing the side seams, I snipped the length of the back to align with the length of the front (due to MY mistakes).
*After reading Christa's review, silly me, I did not properly place the upper edge on the shrug/bolero portion. 

* I did not like the bunching at the seams below the shoulder and front armscye and the restrictive look at the upper chest seams (or simply tight below the shoulders and at the upper chest, moving the upper armscye seams toward the center), which I all attribute to operator error. I traced either the wrong size or just got confused with the congestion of lines. I noticed that the similar tops in other patterns featured the shrug/bolero and arms as being continuous piece.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*For both versions, I did my usual petite adjustments at my usual upper back and waist/hip area.



*For the first version due  to being really totally clueless, I sewed the shrug and the bodice at the incorrect position. As a result the lower part of the shrug bypassed the upper edge front facing at the armscye  (where they should have been joined to form  seam), thus bringing up the neckline and the upper back pulling forward.  You can compare the two knit tops from the inside view, and see the difference. 

*For both versions, to prevent the edge of the back of the neckline leading to the front bodice from being "floppy", I sewed elastic (1/8" in width).   For the first version, I elasticized the  entire lower edge of the faux shrug/bolero transitioning to the rest of the neckline.  For the second version,  I only elasicized the neckline formed by the back piece: from one upper corner of the front, passing the shoulders and back of the neck, then to then to the other upper corner of the front.  In both tops, the elastic used was about 2" less the actual length of the length involved.  





















*As mentioned earlier, I sewed the sleeves to the armscye, instead of setting them in.

*For the second version, anticipating the familiar depths of Burda decolletege as confirmed by Christa, I raised the neckline 1" by a  quick  "cut and spread" method: I cut the front pattern piece along the "fold" line for the front facing and spread the detached pieces 2" apart on the fabric. 


Second (corrected) version, thanks to Christa's review!
* Lower edge of mock shrug/bolero is sewn to the armscye part of the front bodice (both marked seam number "1") unlike previously where I sewed the armscye to the upper edge of the shrug. Notice that the each seam of the armscye part of the front facing "transitions" to the neckline that encircle the upper chest, the shoulders, and the back of the neck. 

*For the second version,  I shortened the sleeves 3/4" by a horizontal fold below the elbow after noticing that the sleeves run longer than usual in my first version.  Even the models have to "push back" their sleeves.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I'm not sure. I still would recommend it. Maybe it is just me that I had some little challenges with this easy pattern due to my "goofs". Otherwise it could have easily been a 1.5 instead of 2 dotted pattern.




Somebody sneaked into the picture!


Conclusion:
I will try my McCall's 2254 from 1999 and compare.

I did not want to have my efforts go to waste and decided to wear it to the city's annual international car show (now one of our traditional family outings). Being a slightly chilly Saturday night, I  wore a sweater (the flash makes it more transparent).

Heather "test driving" Hyundai's Veracruz.


Some highlights:

Dog "Chase".  Heather is proudly wearing her first pair of leggings that she made mostly by herself! She used McCall's 6275, a "2011" pattern.

 This pattern is sew new that as of this moment, it is not on the McCall's patterns website.




Honey, what do you think about this for our next car?

But, honey, check this out.  There's a camera by the license plate.  Come on....


My response: now, look at the price display.  Hmmmmm.....It's nearly $70,000!  Let's move on....


Ca-daddy Ca-dillac


Mom, I can give you the weather forecast from this Lexus!

Without paying $78,555, my child, I can get that info from our tv, newspaper, or the internet!!!


For $4,669, it would be practical to get a Vespa, just to get to and fro from work (technically a 2-minute drive to the high school where I teach, with no traffic)


What I call the "Shamu Mobile"

Probably one of the more "affordable" passenger cars, a Mini Cooper, with a base price of $21,800.  It was popular with the look-i-loos.  Lately, I have not been too much into "smaller" cars, but I do like this cute car. 

Cool retro looking gauges:

Additional features, with not-so-cute prices...

 I liked the color of the new Nissan murano.  If only our 2004 Toyota Highlander came in that color...

Got Milk?
(and a Mrs. Field's Chocolate Chip Cookie, for $2.50 a cookie
 :-( ...  ) 



New Year's Re-SEW-lutions
(1) SEW more
(2) Minimize pattern and fabric buying
What a way to kick-off the new by buying NEW patterns?  I have to stop reading those Jo-Ann flyers where I discover those pattern sales. 

Earlier in December, I purchased some new Buttericks.


Yesterday's date was 1/1/11. In nine days, 1/11/11! That's what I call one-der-full!  What are your new year's resolutions, or re-SEW-lutions?

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Caped Cru-SEW-ders

I hope that you all had a lovely Christmas day.
Plaid-ly Speaking

A few days before Christmas, I was on the quest for a pattern that is suitable for fleece.  I found these nearly forgotten patterns in my stash. 
Simplicity 4026 




I thought it would be fun to sew a "Charger" football fan jacket for my daughter's godmother in printed fleece.   She, her husband, and her children are ardent fans of the team. I sewed Simplicity 4029's short or bolero looking jacket.  I hope that the size 8 will fit Heather's godmother nicely whose petite frame seems to qualify for junior sizes less than a "5".  After cutting and interfacing the front and back facings, I decided to topstitch a narrow hem along the front and neck edges which was somewhat more tricky than what I anticipated.  Attaching the facings would have seemed easier, but I did not want my recipient to have to fuss with them.  


 Bolts of Fabric


I used Simplicity 4026's hat pattern and a long rectangle for the scarf, that was sewed into a tube and turned inside out via a small aperture. Heather assisted me enthusiastically in this project.

Bolts of Fabric

With the remaining fabric, I sewed Heather (she pleaded to make her one after seeing my cape) and myself matching Charger capelets using Simplicity 4026. It took only 2 pattern pieces (I omitted the flounces).  For my cape,  I  added approximately 6" to the lower edge.   For Heather's cape, I kept the same length.   I lined the capelets with cheetah lining fabric that I used recently for a Vogue ruffled blouse. To secure the neckline, I sewed a large snap at the top corners.   

It is a very easy piece to make in which each front piece is sewn to the back piece along the shoulders and upper arms.  So this is an ideal project for beginners, especially those lining a garment for the first time.
Caped Cru-sew-ders

With one flick of our blue cloaks, we transformed from "Charger" to "Cheetah", like magic!
Caped Cru-sew-ders


I know this is irrelevant or just bizarre, but HOWL-Y Batman or Catman, this is definitely one "caped blunder"! This is not cute at all.  Goodbye, Kitty to this one!



Heather gave me this card on Chrsitmas morning.  Gifts from the heart are ones I treasure the most.  

For My Mom







Friday, December 24, 2010

Christmas Wishes

One more day before the birthday of our Savior.



Heather's official first sewing project (with a little help from me). Poor kitty...



Voila, Heather's completed scarf. She and I were very proud.




Christmas 2003.  Heather at 9 months. Her first picture with Santa.  We kept this tradition for five years. 



Heather, getting ready for this year's holiday ballet recital.


The ballerinas just before the performance.


Heather and a snowman decked out in football fan attire on October.   Christmas decorations or simply "going commercial" just before Halloween?  The message is clear: buy, buy, buy.... 


(If is any consolation, we did not buy the hat and the snowman at our local K-Mart.  We found the opportunity for a "Kodak" moment).


We hope that you have more time in the upcoming year to be SEW happy. 




The best gift is that from the heart: love....

Merry Christmas, Feliz Navidad, Maligayang Pasko, Joyeux Noel, God Jul. 



The message of love, peace, and joy is universal in any language.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Tangerine Seams

Two weeks ago...

Pattern Description: "Girl's jumpsuit in two lengths, dress and shrug.  I was set to make a jumper/shorts dress for Heather that she kindly asked me to make.  However,  I made first a shrug or bolero, view "D"  to complement Heather's dress that she would wear at an upcoming yearly church event.
Fabric:
Milly eyelet from EmmaOneSock.com  for the outer portion and a stretch charmeuse from fabric.com as lining.


I traced a size "8" of the front and back of the shrug/bolero onto gift-wrap tissue paper, extending the fronts to bypass the use of a front band.  I also created a matching ponytail hair accessory of the same fabric and three flowers. 



I omitted the center seam for the back in order to not interrupt the petals.


Here's the bolero with the RTW dress. I attached a transaparent "flower" button at the center front.



Showing the lining:


Heather wearing her dress at a yearly church event on a Saturday afternoon (with the odd makeup she had on during a  little ballet performance).  She could not wait to get into her sweater and jeans after the festivities. 

Heather and me (in my Butterick 5454 wrap dress). She looks taller than me!

I started working on Heather's jumpsuit (view B in Liberty of London fabric) the next day. I was able to complete the entire bodice.  In the picture below, I had completed sewing the bias finish/shoulder ties onto one of the armholes. 

Wednesday, December 08, 2010

The INC Spots

While shopping at our local Macys,  I "spotted" a dress with a familiar looking fabric.  The first thing that I said aloud to myself was " Hey, I have that fabric! " I had purchased the same fabric from Gorgeousfabrics.com and immediately made Heather another Jalie twist top and myself a Vogue 8451 top and a New Look 6940 top.  Next to the mannequin is Heather, being silly with her "dozed" expression.

Excuse my fuzzy camera pics from my "time-to-update-my-camera" phone.





Here is another view of the cheetah spotted shirt dress.  I like the ruched front and the  button tabs at the sleeves.
From Macys.com, the INC shirt dress with an original price of $79.99.