It's Number 3 for Pattern #123 and Hello Kitty Cat-ture

After sewing two tops from this month's Burda Style  #123, I decided to sew the dress version .

 

I used the same pattern after my modifications, except adding 14" to the length to transform the top into a dress.  Original blog post: http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/easy-as-1-2-3.html

The dress (viscose jersey from EOS) cinched a macrame-type belt, temporary for now.

  

Without the belt and a slightly chilly brush of air:

Back view, with still excess ease  

Three versions of pattern #123, side by side:

Make that four...

Heather and I were thrilled to receive this goody that arrived yesterday.

 I gave Heather the honors for the first "stitches"

 

Geez, it took awhile for me to get acquainted with the "front-load" vertical bobbin.  The instruction manual was not very clear.  I thought I nearly damaged the machine when I became "over-eager" and unintentionally removed a large "o"-ring  and a crescent-shaped ring.  My mechanically-inclined husband experienced no difficulty placing them back to their original locations and positions, without referring to the manual.  After some trial and error and quite a bit of patience, I figured out how to thread the bobbin in its little metal case and how to align the metal case when returning it to the machine.

My Hello Kitty fan "practicing" on some scraps of fabric. She is looking forward to her next sewing projects. 

 

BTW: I sewed my new dress on this machine and I truly like this machine!
Next on the agenda: Figuring out and trying the automatic buttonhole feature.

Easy as 1-2-3

I agree that this top is "everything easy" as in its description in the January 2013 issue of Burda Style magazine.  I have already sewn two tops from this very simple pattern. 

 

From Burda Style magazine, "From sewing machine to night life. The casual shirt with draped neckline is a real last-minute piece, perfect for beginners..."

I like the overall simplicity sewing construction (only 2 pieces if you omit the binding strip for the back neckline) and the amount of drape of the cowl, being neither too low nor too high, just "right".  I have no dislikes.

Burda Style schematic sketch of top (123 A) and dress (123 B)

Sizes:  Misses' 34-36-38-40-42.  I sewed a "38" at the shoulders and a "40" elsewhere.  I discovered that the top is somewhat baggy and from the magazine is meant to be belted.

I plan to reduce my stash of fabric remnants from previous projects, Two-piece "easy" patterns such as this pattern #123A is ideal for 1 to 1 1/8 yards of those remnants.

It was silly to create second versions that look "similar" to the original in the same fabric. But I thought it would be wise to "practice" with familiar fabric and make adjustments before delving into new fabric.

For the first version, I used a rayon woven which was a remnant of Butterick 5645. The braided belt I wore here was purchased at Kohl's.

Butterick 5645, June 2012 at the Del Mar Fairgrounds

Due to fabric constraints, I cut the front into an upper piece and a lower piece (the seam that joins the pieces landed between my waistline and bust.  Also, I cut the back into pieces, joined at a center seam.

For the first version, I used a rayon jersey knit which was a remnant of a 1970's Butterick See & Sew 5782 turtleneck

1970's Butterick See & Sew 5782 turtleneck

Since I was not able to cut the back as one complete piece on the fold, I cut the back into an upper and lower piece. Working with certain prints such as zig-zags and stripes are tricky, especially while trying to achieve continuity and/or symmetry of design. So, I tried the best what I can with what I had. The upper piece is a 180 degree rotation of the lower piece. 

 Alterations/Modifications

* I omitted the bias finding for the back of the neckline.  I folded a 3/8" hem to the inside, tucking under the raw edge and top-stitched.  Before pinning and stitching the shoulder seams,  I made sure while turning the front facing to the back, I "catch" the end of the back neckline. 

*My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waist

* Narrowed the upper center back by making taking in the center seam at the upper back by 3/8", reducing the width of the upper back by 3/4".

*Raised the lower edge of the armscyes 3/4" for modesty.

*Shortened the cap sleeves by 1/2".

*I took in the side seams 1/4" to reduce "sack" look.

More Thoughts

A nice pattern that is easy to personalize for fit and has the potential to be a reliable base pattern to create a variety of looks.

At times, the neckline in this fabric can somewhat "slide" to one side.  

It was time for Heather and me to get some warm treats at Starbucks.

Getting Catty with Vogue 8827

I have had this dress in my UFO stash for several months. After cutting the fabric pieces which took more time than expected, I did not feel the "spark" to start sewing the dress immediately. One of my new year's resolution is to finish what I started. To start my sewing in 2013, I resolved to complete Vogue 8827

 

Pattern Description:
"Very loose-fitting, wrap dress has front extending into collar with draped front variations, self-lined yoke back, inside ties and belt. I sewed view "A" with the draped front, but replaced the long sleeves with the short sleeves from another view.

Before attaching the lengthy front facings, I was nearly discouraged to continue when my daughter Heather asked, "Mom, are you making a nightgown?"

The pattern comes in misses' sizes 6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a "10" instead of my usual "12" and am glad that I did.

Fabric Used:
I have had this fabric for awhile, purchased from EOS. It feels like a poly-lycra knit. If I am incorrect, please let me know. 

About the Instructions
The instructions were satisfactory, being wary of the different views. Although this is labeled "easy", I would not recommend this for beginners, nor as a "first dress" project. The diagrams (except for the collar, front, and back yoke facings) helped especially in distinguishing where, for instance, to stitch and cut close to the "pivot points", and where to stitch the center back seam of the collar. For me, it was easy to confuse the shoulder and collar sections on an extremely large front piece with the flounced front. It was easy to get lost in a "sea of fabric" before positioning and pinning the back yoke to the collar and the shoulders. 


The two large front pieces were faced in the same fabric (I would not recommend facing knits due to their drape which would make iron pressing a chore). The back yoke and its facing were somewhat tricky to position, pin, and stitch beneath the collar (whose center back seam is joined by extensions of the the left and front pieces).

I was hoping to use the "sausage" or "burrito" method for the back yoke and its facing to encase the lower back of the dress. With the bulk of the fabric, it would seem to be a challenge. I had to resort to "slip-stitching" the back yoke facing to the seam of the back yoke and the lower back piece.

I'll swallow my pride and show you the inside of my dress ("scary"), with emphasis on the collar, front and back yoke facings. I had difficulty interpreting Vogue Patterns' 2-dimensional diagram to a 3-dimensional space.

DISCLAIMER: I cannot guarantee that my results aligned 100% with what VOGUE patterns had in mind.

Collar and Yoke Facings. I was even ambitious enough to hem and topstitch the front facings.
 (I have not yet "tacked" the facing to the shoulders).

 

Likes/Dislikes:
I adore wrap dresses. However as I read through the instructions, this dress was not a "true" wrap dress as the ones I have made in the past. Hence, I would classify this as a faux or mock wrap dress. I noticed that the fabric ties are not attached to the front edges and no side aperture or a slit at a side seam for the ties to pass through to achieve the "wrap-around" effect. "Ribbon" ties are used to secure the fronts for the wrap look. I totally ignored this method and used an alternative and easier way (described later) without fussing further with the instructions.

The only thing I like is the flounced front, but NOT having to face the two fronts. Facing the front was necessary due to working with a non-reversible type of fabric. With the front and back yoke facings, it seemed as if I were sewing one large dress and one little dress. The facing added to the weight of the dress, making me feel like the back of the dress will "ride up". 

Here is an "interesting" dress with unfaced front edges.  I saw the "hemmed edges" when I zoomed in at the photo at asos.com.  This dress still is overpriced at its current sale price of $90 reduced from the original retail at $274

Alterations/Modifications of Vogue 8827:
I made my typical 1"petite adjustment at the waistline and transferred that to the front facings.

I also narrowed the upper center back by making taking in the center seam at the upper back by 3/8", reducing the width of the upper back by 3/4".

Removed a maximum of 1 1/2" from the sleeve heads.

To secure the dress prior to cinching its waist with the self-fabric tie belt, I sewed a button to each front end and an elastic loop for the inside at the right side seam (to secure the left front as it wrapped under the right front) and another elastic loop at the left side seam on the visible side, to secure the right front as it wraps over the left front. The "button and elastic loop" is not the sleekest method, but it serves it function, and at least I do not have to worry about inner ribbon ties coming "undone".

Wearer's Left front button and elastic loop at inside of right side seam:

 

Wearer's right front button and elastic loop at left side seam:

 

I hand-stitched the hem for a couture finish, which took 45 minutes.


Other Thoughts:
If I ever plan to sew this dress again, I would use a fabric that would not require front to be faced. Although I would still recommend this pattern due to its classic style, it was, for me, time consuming for a pattern rated "easy".

Conclusion
I am glad that this is done! Yeah!

 

Stripe Up the Bands and Welcoming 2013

Here is a Burda Style pattern I made a few months ago. My construction details are somewhat "cloudy".  I would describe it as a cowl top with long sleeves and side-ruching.  

I made this top three months ago and was not too thrilled about it that I left it literally and technically "unfinished" (at the sleeve and lower hems).  The type of fabric, fit, and my job with the neckline made me hide it in my "not certain" section of my wardrobe.  I found a "scrap" of this top's fabric in my sewing area which prompted me to "rediscover" this top and wear it today.


The pattern came in a ,isses' 34-36-38-40-42.  I traced and sewed a 38 at the shoulders and a 40 elsewhere.

The fabric I used seems like a sheer cotton/poly blend knit, purchased from EOS.

If I recall correctly, I did not experience too much difficulty with the directions and the overall construction.  The back of the neckline was questionably clear, and I used what I felt was the most convenient method at the time.

I sewed a strip of store-bought bias binding to the back edge of the neckline and turned it to the inside with the front facing.  For the side ruching, I stretched and stitched and  a 7" long of 1/4" wide elastic along the lower right side.

Likes/Dislikes
I like the modest depth of the cowl neckline and that there were only three main pattern pieces to work with, the front, back, and sleeve.

But less relevant to the pattern was I was not satisfied with my questionable results.  I was not impressed with my quality of sewing with this top.  But I will give myself an excuse that this was my first attempt with the pattern.


Alterations/Modifiations
I performed my typical 1" petite adjustment above the waist and narrowing of the upper center back (3/8" taken out from the upper center back, tapering to 0" just past the lower armscye.).

I did not "ruch" the sleeves and instead stitched a tiny hem at their ends. I might have shortened their lengths before stitching (my memory is hazy).

I did not hem the lower edge (which I usually do as a force of habit), which had a tendency to "curl" anyway (just like one the Burda Style model wore), and accept it as a "style feature".

Other Thoughts
I am not sure if I will sew another top from this pattern, however,  I still would recommend this pattern for Burda Style magazine "newbies" or as a simple gratification project.  It would be helpful to make a muslin or first-time version with "cheaper" fabric to get an idea how the top fits.   It also is an ideal pattern to showcase a distinctive print of a knit.

Thank you for visiting, have a happy new year and happy sewing!

 "Test driving" a 2013 Mazda convertible

Heather on a BMW scooter and her father nearby

Peace from the KIA Hamster and Heather at the San Diego Auto Car Show for 2013
 

Some Sewing, Sympathies, and Sunshine

I purchased this Burda pattern (#7742) last week after seeing it on the Burda fashion  website:

 

No description was provided on the pattern envelope. Here's my translation from the French website of Burda Style: "A form fitting top ideal for skirts and slacks. The top comes in a choice of long sleeves with gathered sleeve heads or sleeveless. The sleeveless has an option for back enclosures. For the neckline, you have a choice of a turtleneck or a round neckline..." The patterns calls for the use of 2-way stretch knits.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 36 38 40 42 44 46. I sewed a "40".

Something to be aware of are the 2" hem at the lower edge of the top and at the lower edge of the sleeves. After my typical petite adjustments and the 2" hem, I found the top still exorbitantly long, which did not work well with its form-fitting or body hugging style on me. I used a belt to interrupt the length or to add some aesthetic balance.

This is the first time that I tried a Burda "Young Fashion". I should have gone up a size from my typical Burda "40" to a "42" at the bust and sides for this pattern due to it being more fitted. I did not decrease to a "38" at the neck and shoulders as I usually do with standard Burda Style magazine patterns.


I used a foxes-print rayon jersey from emmaonesock.com

Pattern Directions

Although I did not use them after sewing a Burda Style turtleneck from the September 2012 issue, the directions of Burda patterns from the envelopes are usually better than the very brief or less explicit directions encountered in the Burda Style magazines.


Favorite and Not-So Favorite Features

I liked the simplicity of construction with only 4 pattern pieces: the front, back, sleeve, and turtleneck piece (rectangular). I also liked the depth of the turtleneck, neither constrictive nor low enough to qualify to be a "cowl". MNBarb's description in her review is much better: "It's somewhere between chokey and cowl." The neckline would seem simple to adjust to make it look more like a standard turtleneck.

The only thing that I least liked is the sizing does not seem to correlate with misses' Burda. Going up a size or two would have seemed to work better for me.

Modifications/Alterations:
*My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline.

*Due to a fabric deficit, I shortened the sleeves 5 1/2", which landed nearly an inch above my wrists. To give you an idea of the sleeve length, if I had used the original length of the sleeves and the 2" inch hem, I estimate that the resulting length would surpass my wrists by an inch.

*I sewed in the sleeve heads to armscyes flat (before stitching side seams) instead of "setting them in".

I plan sew this again due to its comfort, versatility of style, and its simple construction. I definitely recommend this pattern for the same reasons.

This pattern is a nice staple of any wardrobe. Maybe that is one reason why it has been around for several years.


More thoughts
My heartfelt sympathies and prayers to the departed children and adults, the survivors, and their families of Newtown, Connecticut. It hurts to think of what happened to our innocent brothers and sisters.  I hope and pray for peace, harmony, safety, and love in today's world. 

Yesterday, we watched our community of young dancers/performers participate in their dance company's yearly holiday recital.  The children again delighted us with a wonderful show.  Their presence not only lights up the stage, but all of our lives.  They represent not only our hope, but also the hope of families of Newtown and those all over the world for a promising future.

More T-Time: T Necks, Textual Reading, Technology, Trees, Thanksgiving

Some inspiration:

From the September 2012 issue of Burda Style magazine, a very simple turtleneck pattern:  

 My previous post with my original version:

http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2012/09/mare-all-streeped-with-burda-styles.html

My second version in a viscose knit, also from EOS.  Here I am posing with some of my "plan-to-read" books that I purchased from the closing of a local Border's bookstore last year, and from another bookstore, one of Heather's all-time favorites, "The Lorax", which is so relevant today.   The rapid advancement of technology has, for instance, facilitated the access and submission of information, but stalled human sensitivity and personalization (i.e. writing letters from the heart).    Downloading books and music and sending information via e-mail "save the trees" which would make "The Lorax" happy.  However, advancing technology requires the consumption of more human and material energy and resources with increasing demand and supply, which would make "The Lorax" not happy.  Appreciating and understanding the "simple things" is getting lost in translation with each passing day.   I hope that our Barnes and Noble bookstores continue to stay in business for a long time.

Before cutting:

I re-used the pattern pieces that I traced from the magazine, along with my minor adjustments (making a petite adjustment at the waistline, narrowing the upper back, and lowering the neckline 1/2" tapering to 0" before attaching the cowl neck).  This top was drafted to be a more fitted style than the Simplicity 1716 I recently sewed.

It took me only 2 hours to sew the top. I am looking forward to an upcoming event to wear the dress.  I just found more material in my fabric stash to start my third version. In the meantime, Heather and I plan to bake some goodies to bring to my parents for Thanksgiving tomorrow. We have many things to be thankful for.  With the world in its current chaotic state,  I pray for peace, harmony, and recovery especially for our brothers and sisters who experienced much and pain and misfortune in their lives. The power of prayer and wishing well are very much needed at this time for our world to move forward.

I hope you have a safe and happy Thanksgiving and happy sewing. :-)

Simplicity 1617 On the 18th

I purchased this pattern last week at JoAnn's, reinforcing my addiction to another cowl front top/dress. What better way to jump-start my return to sewing.

Pattern Description:
"Misses; knit mini-dress, tunic and top, with front variations." I sewed view "F", the top with the cowl front.

 Sizes:  Misses' 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. I sewed a "10" at the shoulders and a "12" elsewhere.

 

The drape and the "extended" shoulders of the magenta top worn by the model remind me of Etro's $850 top from Saks Fifth Avenue:

 

Fabric Used:
A soft rayon/spandex knit, "Yigal Azr0uel tribal emblem montage knit" from emmaonesock.com.


Instructions
They were easy to follow.  I am singing a song of praise to Simplicity for the diagrams! I did not experience any challenges with reinforcing the shoulders (I sewed a piece of bias tape at the back shoulder seam), making the two pairs of pleats at the shoulders, adding and positioning the back facing with regards to the front facing at the neckline, or the overall construction of the top. 

 

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Features
I like this top mostly due to the cowl which drapes at a proper depth, while still exuding style. The drape of my cowl neck more closely resembles that of the model wearing the magenta top than the illustration which drapes downward.  My shoulders like hers also tend to "slide back". The sleeves were not as "fitted" as they appeared on the model, which I would have preferred, but then I appreciate the comfort of them being slightly loose or their relaxed fit. The rectangular back facing, with its negative ease, is simple and convenient (for non-owners of sergers) to use thus reducing the tendency for "gaposis" below the neck. Although I like the shoulder pleats, I plan to adjust them to narrow the shoulder width. I do agree with previous reviewers of this pattern that the length of the top might be a propos for the taller ladies whereas petite ladies such as myself would need to perform our usual petite adjustments at the waistline. 


Pattern Modifications
*Took in the center seam at the upper back in 3/8"

*Shortened the top 1" at the petite adjustment line at the front and back

*Skipped the elasticized ruching at the sides to opt for a tunic style.

*For a tunic look, I added 1 1/4" at the lower edge before hemming. My braided belt that I purchased at Kohl's two weeks ago seems to coordinate nicely with the fabric and style.

*For bell-style inspired sleeves I lengthened each sleeve 1".


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I recently added this pattern to my list of "reliable" patterns. I definitely recommend this pattern for its style and simplicity in construction. It is one of those "sew-in-the-morning-and-wear-in-the-afternoon" type of projects!


Conclusion
The cowl or draped front trend is here to stay...

A 10-11-12 Greeting From Us to You

Wishing my fellow sewists and bloggers a good 10-11-12 day. I just noticed the consecutive numbers today. If it is your birthday or another special day/event, I hope it is a wonderful one.

Also, I just discovered that 10-11-12 is officially the first "Day of the Girl".  But everyday to us is a day of the girl. I am grateful for the liberties we have. In  other countries, ladies are treated as inferior to men.

 From the Day of the Girl website,

"The Day of the Girl is about highlighting, celebrating, discussing, and advancing girls lives and opportunities across the globe." 

This also applies to us "more mature" girls as well.

My daughter Heather and I standing here, minutes after a Beatles theatrical performance, just before the Beatles cover band met fans at the autograph table.  Heather wore a pink satiny dress and I wore a dress that I sewed from a 1967's McCall pattern.

More fab fun and fashion in my retro blog:
http://groovy60ssewing.blogspot.com/2012/10/abbey-rhodes-pinky-lane-and-fine-fab.html

11-12-13 is waiting in the wings...