Cowl-i-FOUR-nia Dreaming on Route Burda 123B

A sample of two-toned dresses. There were some interesting results for two-toned cowl neckline dresses.

I chose a conservative route with Burda Style 123 B.  This was the fourth dress I made with this pattern (sixth if I included the two tops).  I used fabric remnants from previous projects.

 

 

The upper portion  came from a remnant of a Burda rayon jersey turtleneck and the lower or skirt portion from  a remnant of my second dress of the same pattern.  I fused the contrasting pieces to get this dress. The only modifications from the original pattern that I had traced and cut were removing 1 1/2" from the upper edge of the sleeves, tapering to 0" at the lower armscyes.  For a "non-warped" skirt edge, I hand-stitched a 3/4" hem after ease-stitching 1/4" from the raw edge.

Previous posts of  the same pattern:

Third version of dress:  http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-flag-sew-lute.html

Second version of dress :  http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/oops-i-stitched-it-again.html

First version of dress: http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/its-numberr-3-for-pattern-123-and-hello.html

Tops from the same pattern http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/easy-as-1-2-3.html

 My updated "cowl-lection" of Burda Style #123B for the "one pattern many looks" contest.  I really had fun experimenting with the basic pattern.  My favorite is my most recent addition, the dual toned dress.

A Flag Sew-lute?

My third dress with Burda Style 123B for my entry to the "One Pattern, Many Looks" contest.  These contests provide a wonderful avenue to try something out of the ordinary and/or to try new techniques.

 

Again, this is from the pattern for the  "light cowl dress" from this month's Burda Style magazine.

Some inspiration:

Anne Klein's two-tone dress

L'Agence's Aline colorblock dress.  That certainly gives one illusion of a "bare" midsection from afar...

 

I was on a "stripe-hype" when I purchased this and have not figured out what to use it for. Then out of the blue or more suitably, out with some blue fabric, the colorblock trend gave me some incentive.

Front piece of the dress, not yet sewn to the back piece, view from the inside.  The solid is a blue lightweight polyester jacquard and the striped is a cotton woven.  I think I purchased both from fabric.com some time ago.

 

After taking in the side seams at the midriff band, it still is "sack-ish", but not not as "sack-ish" when I tried it on for the first time. Now, come to think of it, I feel like I am patriotic to a country whose flag has red, blue, and yellow  (i.e. Venezuela, Ecuador, Chad, Romania, The Netherlands...)

This is not a flattering piece on me, especially with those as myself with short torsos. In the spirit of Pattern Review's "one, pattern many looks" contest, I wanted to try something out of the ordinary such as using striped fabric to spruce up a mono-tone dress. 

A "Cowl-age" of dresses from pattern 123B

previous reviews of this top/dress pattern in blog posts:

http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/oops-i-stitched-it-again.html

http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/its-numberr-3-for-pattern-123-and-hello.html

http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/easy-as-1-2-3.html

Next on the agenda, Butterick 5185 with  tape measures and a taste of New Orleans

Getting Some Z-Z-Z-Z-Z's with Vogue 8634

From the back of Vogue 8634's pattern envelope:
"Misses' Top:  Close-fitting, pullover tops A, B, C, in two lengths, have collar and stitched hems.  A: short sleeves.  B: three-quarter length sleeves.  C: long sleeves."
 
I sewed a medium and used the three-quarter sleeves from view "B" and the tunic length of view "C".

"Cowl-ifornia Girls"

Fabric Used
Some wild and funky Michael Miller cotton jersey from the "Heaven and Helsinki" series by Patty Young.  I had 1.5 yards of this fabric and used nearly all of it with scraps to spare.

 

I feel a resurgence of the gaudy 1970's wearing this fabric, all in good fun.

Instructions
They were straightforward with helpful diagrams.

After stitching the front under bust seam, I stitched the front of the raglan sleeve to each front of the top and then to the back (matching the notches). Then I stitched a sleeve seam and side seam as one continuous seam and repeated this process to the other sleeve seam and side seam. The basted collar end, having a center back seam, is attached to the stay-stitched neckline. Hemming and top-stitching the sleeves and lower edge of the top completed the construction. Very easy.

Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that this top is very easy to sew and I like cowl-necked styles.

The only things I do not like is the 2" excess ease, or what I call "bulk", that I encountered from the collar behind my neck and the upper back.   Although the depth of the neckline is modest,  I would have preferred it to be 1" higher.

Modifications
My usual petite adjustment at the waistline and narrowing the upper back from the center back.

I took in the side seams an additional 1/4".

Removed 2" from the lower edge before hemming and top-stitching.


Tried to keep the continuity of the print while cutting the fabric pieces, especially at the under bust seam.

Omitted top-stitching the under bust seam and the neckline seam.


Other Thoughts
After more adjustments in the upper back and accordingly to the collar, I would sew this top again. I still would recommend this top, with my only reservation of it being loose instead of "close-fitted" as described by Vogue Patterns.  Being in my stash for quite a bit of time, this is one of those "why-had-I not-sewn-this-sooner" types of patterns.   

Oops, I Stitched It Again!

This two-pieced pattern got me "hooked".  I already made four versions of this pattern, two dresses and two tops.

First blog post of pattern 123: first two versions
Second blog post of pattern 123: third version

 

I wanted to try something out of my comfort zone and create a unique color-block dress while the color-block/silhouette trend is still going strong.   An upcoming concert of one of my favorite cover bands in March gave me an incentive to work on this dress.  For my fourth version, I used a medium weight knit and I cut out 4 "protractor" shapes of themed fabric on the bias.

 Some inspiration for the "cutouts", Cynthia Steffe, her "Rory" color-block shift dress.

I sewed each pair at the ends, wrong sides together and clipped the curves to reduce "bunching" before stitching them to each of the two cutout portions of the dress that started two inches below the lower armscye.  The cutouts of the dress have the same shape as the themed fabric but each edge taken in 1" to accommodate the 1/2" seam.   Stitching the fabric cutouts to the dress was unexpectedly quite a fiddle-some task and occupied the most time in the process.  The cut-outs came out 2" lower than intended on my figure, but maybe it was better that it turned out way than the cutouts affecting the chest/bust area.

After stitching in my "noir-wear" land,

Other Modifications

The dress needed further tweaking to go from "frumpy" to "dinner-and-dancing" ready.

*Removed 3" from the length that I used for the previous dress from the same pattern (third version)

*Also removed 2" from the sleeve length (past the shoulders), tapering to 0" at the lower armscye (under the arm).

Call it avant-garde, bizarre, straying from the norm, or a fashion risk when I look at  my original design.   After seeing some "interesting" designs making the headlines, I put aside more of my own personal doubts. Now I "feel fine" that I have a "little black dress" with my first attempt at color-blocking with unconventional fabric.  I am still not sure about it, I will take a fashion risk and wear it at least for one evening out...

For the "one pattern, many looks" PR contest:

 

It's Number 3 for Pattern #123 and Hello Kitty Cat-ture

After sewing two tops from this month's Burda Style  #123, I decided to sew the dress version .

 

I used the same pattern after my modifications, except adding 14" to the length to transform the top into a dress.  Original blog post: http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/01/easy-as-1-2-3.html

The dress (viscose jersey from EOS) cinched a macrame-type belt, temporary for now.

  

Without the belt and a slightly chilly brush of air:

Back view, with still excess ease  

Three versions of pattern #123, side by side:

Make that four...

Heather and I were thrilled to receive this goody that arrived yesterday.

 I gave Heather the honors for the first "stitches"

 

Geez, it took awhile for me to get acquainted with the "front-load" vertical bobbin.  The instruction manual was not very clear.  I thought I nearly damaged the machine when I became "over-eager" and unintentionally removed a large "o"-ring  and a crescent-shaped ring.  My mechanically-inclined husband experienced no difficulty placing them back to their original locations and positions, without referring to the manual.  After some trial and error and quite a bit of patience, I figured out how to thread the bobbin in its little metal case and how to align the metal case when returning it to the machine.

My Hello Kitty fan "practicing" on some scraps of fabric. She is looking forward to her next sewing projects. 

 

BTW: I sewed my new dress on this machine and I truly like this machine!
Next on the agenda: Figuring out and trying the automatic buttonhole feature.

Easy as 1-2-3

I agree that this top is "everything easy" as in its description in the January 2013 issue of Burda Style magazine.  I have already sewn two tops from this very simple pattern. 

 

From Burda Style magazine, "From sewing machine to night life. The casual shirt with draped neckline is a real last-minute piece, perfect for beginners..."

I like the overall simplicity sewing construction (only 2 pieces if you omit the binding strip for the back neckline) and the amount of drape of the cowl, being neither too low nor too high, just "right".  I have no dislikes.

Burda Style schematic sketch of top (123 A) and dress (123 B)

Sizes:  Misses' 34-36-38-40-42.  I sewed a "38" at the shoulders and a "40" elsewhere.  I discovered that the top is somewhat baggy and from the magazine is meant to be belted.

I plan to reduce my stash of fabric remnants from previous projects, Two-piece "easy" patterns such as this pattern #123A is ideal for 1 to 1 1/8 yards of those remnants.

It was silly to create second versions that look "similar" to the original in the same fabric. But I thought it would be wise to "practice" with familiar fabric and make adjustments before delving into new fabric.

For the first version, I used a rayon woven which was a remnant of Butterick 5645. The braided belt I wore here was purchased at Kohl's.

Butterick 5645, June 2012 at the Del Mar Fairgrounds

Due to fabric constraints, I cut the front into an upper piece and a lower piece (the seam that joins the pieces landed between my waistline and bust.  Also, I cut the back into pieces, joined at a center seam.

For the first version, I used a rayon jersey knit which was a remnant of a 1970's Butterick See & Sew 5782 turtleneck

1970's Butterick See & Sew 5782 turtleneck

Since I was not able to cut the back as one complete piece on the fold, I cut the back into an upper and lower piece. Working with certain prints such as zig-zags and stripes are tricky, especially while trying to achieve continuity and/or symmetry of design. So, I tried the best what I can with what I had. The upper piece is a 180 degree rotation of the lower piece. 

 Alterations/Modifications

* I omitted the bias finding for the back of the neckline.  I folded a 3/8" hem to the inside, tucking under the raw edge and top-stitched.  Before pinning and stitching the shoulder seams,  I made sure while turning the front facing to the back, I "catch" the end of the back neckline. 

*My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waist

* Narrowed the upper center back by making taking in the center seam at the upper back by 3/8", reducing the width of the upper back by 3/4".

*Raised the lower edge of the armscyes 3/4" for modesty.

*Shortened the cap sleeves by 1/2".

*I took in the side seams 1/4" to reduce "sack" look.

More Thoughts

A nice pattern that is easy to personalize for fit and has the potential to be a reliable base pattern to create a variety of looks.

At times, the neckline in this fabric can somewhat "slide" to one side.  

It was time for Heather and me to get some warm treats at Starbucks.

Getting Catty with Vogue 8827

I have had this dress in my UFO stash for several months. After cutting the fabric pieces which took more time than expected, I did not feel the "spark" to start sewing the dress immediately. One of my new year's resolution is to finish what I started. To start my sewing in 2013, I resolved to complete Vogue 8827

 

Pattern Description:
"Very loose-fitting, wrap dress has front extending into collar with draped front variations, self-lined yoke back, inside ties and belt. I sewed view "A" with the draped front, but replaced the long sleeves with the short sleeves from another view.

Before attaching the lengthy front facings, I was nearly discouraged to continue when my daughter Heather asked, "Mom, are you making a nightgown?"

The pattern comes in misses' sizes 6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a "10" instead of my usual "12" and am glad that I did.

Fabric Used:
I have had this fabric for awhile, purchased from EOS. It feels like a poly-lycra knit. If I am incorrect, please let me know. 

About the Instructions
The instructions were satisfactory, being wary of the different views. Although this is labeled "easy", I would not recommend this for beginners, nor as a "first dress" project. The diagrams (except for the collar, front, and back yoke facings) helped especially in distinguishing where, for instance, to stitch and cut close to the "pivot points", and where to stitch the center back seam of the collar. For me, it was easy to confuse the shoulder and collar sections on an extremely large front piece with the flounced front. It was easy to get lost in a "sea of fabric" before positioning and pinning the back yoke to the collar and the shoulders. 


The two large front pieces were faced in the same fabric (I would not recommend facing knits due to their drape which would make iron pressing a chore). The back yoke and its facing were somewhat tricky to position, pin, and stitch beneath the collar (whose center back seam is joined by extensions of the the left and front pieces).

I was hoping to use the "sausage" or "burrito" method for the back yoke and its facing to encase the lower back of the dress. With the bulk of the fabric, it would seem to be a challenge. I had to resort to "slip-stitching" the back yoke facing to the seam of the back yoke and the lower back piece.

I'll swallow my pride and show you the inside of my dress ("scary"), with emphasis on the collar, front and back yoke facings. I had difficulty interpreting Vogue Patterns' 2-dimensional diagram to a 3-dimensional space.

DISCLAIMER: I cannot guarantee that my results aligned 100% with what VOGUE patterns had in mind.

Collar and Yoke Facings. I was even ambitious enough to hem and topstitch the front facings.
 (I have not yet "tacked" the facing to the shoulders).

 

Likes/Dislikes:
I adore wrap dresses. However as I read through the instructions, this dress was not a "true" wrap dress as the ones I have made in the past. Hence, I would classify this as a faux or mock wrap dress. I noticed that the fabric ties are not attached to the front edges and no side aperture or a slit at a side seam for the ties to pass through to achieve the "wrap-around" effect. "Ribbon" ties are used to secure the fronts for the wrap look. I totally ignored this method and used an alternative and easier way (described later) without fussing further with the instructions.

The only thing I like is the flounced front, but NOT having to face the two fronts. Facing the front was necessary due to working with a non-reversible type of fabric. With the front and back yoke facings, it seemed as if I were sewing one large dress and one little dress. The facing added to the weight of the dress, making me feel like the back of the dress will "ride up". 

Here is an "interesting" dress with unfaced front edges.  I saw the "hemmed edges" when I zoomed in at the photo at asos.com.  This dress still is overpriced at its current sale price of $90 reduced from the original retail at $274

Alterations/Modifications of Vogue 8827:
I made my typical 1"petite adjustment at the waistline and transferred that to the front facings.

I also narrowed the upper center back by making taking in the center seam at the upper back by 3/8", reducing the width of the upper back by 3/4".

Removed a maximum of 1 1/2" from the sleeve heads.

To secure the dress prior to cinching its waist with the self-fabric tie belt, I sewed a button to each front end and an elastic loop for the inside at the right side seam (to secure the left front as it wrapped under the right front) and another elastic loop at the left side seam on the visible side, to secure the right front as it wraps over the left front. The "button and elastic loop" is not the sleekest method, but it serves it function, and at least I do not have to worry about inner ribbon ties coming "undone".

Wearer's Left front button and elastic loop at inside of right side seam:

 

Wearer's right front button and elastic loop at left side seam:

 

I hand-stitched the hem for a couture finish, which took 45 minutes.


Other Thoughts:
If I ever plan to sew this dress again, I would use a fabric that would not require front to be faced. Although I would still recommend this pattern due to its classic style, it was, for me, time consuming for a pattern rated "easy".

Conclusion
I am glad that this is done! Yeah!