Spool On Rouge with Vogue 8915

I used lots of red thread on a Vogue 8914 top and a dress.
"Misses' top, dress, belt, and pants: Pullover top or dress has self belt. Tapered pants have elasticized waist.   The pattern comes in Xsm-Sml-Med and Lrg-XL-XXL.   I sewed a medium and realized that this pattern has excessive ease. I sewed a small for my second version in a dress and it became more fitted, especially after increasing the side seams. I am not quite sure about it. 




The instructions were sufficient, especially if you have sewn garments that require only two main pattern pieces, the front and the back.

This is a dress by Akiko (found on myhabit.com) whose style is close to the pattern sketches:

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that the top was easy to sew and that the top required approximately 3/4 of a yard of fabric. My dislikes are that I experienced "gaposis" at the neckline (front and back) and the belt is needed to cinch the top or dress due to the "sack"-like silhouette. I sized down to a "S" for my second version (dress). 


Fabric Used:
For my first version, 3/4 of a yard of fabric remnant of a previous project (three years?), a cotton woven with slight stretch. 

 

For my second version, a silk/charmeuse. I feel like some 1960's flight attendant. Fabric print placement was tricky due to the random configurations of red blocks.  I should have made something else with this fabric.

Modifications:

*For modesty, I raised the armscye, by stitching 1" above the marked circle (I could have gone a tad higher) or the start of the side seam.

Still the lower portion of the armhole is low :

*For the first version, made two small darts at the neckline to address the gaping or "draping" neckline. Otherwise, any more ease, and I could wear it in an updated "flashdance" style as in this Krizia dress:

*Used a bias strip in the same fabric to finish the neckline, instead of turning under the raw edges and top-stitching a narrow hem as directed.

*Made my typical petite adjustment at the waistline

* Narrowed the upper back 1/2" from the center (total 1" across) tapering to 0" above the waistline

*For my first version (the top), I created a "split" sleeve by not sewing the shoulder seam in its entirety. I made a narrow hem at the edges before hemming the lower edges of the sleeves. 

*Due to the fraying nature of the silk (dress version), I sewed the sides in French seams.

Future Plans/Recommendations
I plan to sew another top (not a dress) from this pattern.  This pattern is ideal to showcase fabric prints and for beginners. I recommend using fabric remnants just under a yard to determine if the pattern needs to be altered to your fitting preferences.

Conclusion:
I prefer this pattern as a top. 

Alternative look:
Instead of a belt, an elastized waistline is an option, as in this Michael Kors top. The contrasting fabric at the neckline and sleeve hems looks sleek.

 

Double Twist with Vogue 1327

             A RTW Anne Klein with the twisted upper bodice (already sold out)

                                               
                                   My pattern envelope of Vogue 1327.

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has bias, pleated, twisted upper front bodice, semi-fitted bodice, front pleated skirt, invisible back zipper and vent.

I was misled by "easy" label on this pattern. This would be "easy" if the dress consisted of two or three pieces and with much fewer and less elaborate instructions. I hope you benefit from my "learn by doing" experience. Maybe my shortcuts and "goofs" are your gain as well.

I sewed a "12".

Fabric Used:
Marc Jacobs houndstooth jersey that seemed to be lined with a lightweight and had a tendency to fray a little at the edges.
 
I am not certain about my dress looking like the one depicted on the pattern envelope because I used a printed fabric, and being not built like typical Vogue pattern models, I "fill" out the dress quite differently...

Instructions
I seemed to only use 20 of the 49 steps because I used a knit. For an "easy" pattern, this one seems quite extensive, in regards to lining the upper and lower bodice, lining the upper back and skirt portions, inserting a zipper, making the 13 little pleats below the waistline at the skirt front, binding the seams, finishing portions of the lining and hems by slip-stitching or hand-stitching, and making the lower back pleat at their skirt in conjunction with its lining. Steps 45-49 involve inserting a "lingerie strap" or "hanger strap". Although I followed less than half of the lengthy set of instructions, it is still not one of those "instant" or "quick gratification" projects.


Favorite and Not-So Favorite Features
I liked the twist front style with the "keyhole" or peek-a-boo front bodice. I had to really revert several times to the illustration showing the "double twist" of one side of the upper bodice. The lining of the upper bodice (in the same fabric) was done the same way. The upper bodice and its lining are stitched right sides together along the neckline (stopping at the "triangles" near the shoulder seams) and at the lower edge "between two marked circles" which designate what I call the "boundary points" or the start and stop of the upper part of the keyhole opening.

Pinning the lower bodice to the upper bodice that had already been lined in the same fabric was tricky because the "twist" had a tendency to revert to its original position! To "hold" the twist or prevent it from unraveling, I pinned the shoulders together, and took my time to pin the upper and lower bodices together as well as the upper and lower bodices of the lining.

What I thought would be a "piece of cake" were forming those 13 front pleats at the skirt! During cutting, I cut out narrow triangles to designate the width of each pleat. This helped somewhat to avoid the "vanishing chalk marks" that occurs with fabric manipulation. Because they were very close together, it was easy to miss the upcoming or consecutive basted pleat during stitching. I had to stitch, stop, push the fabric forward, so as not to "miss" the next pinned pleat. I wanted the pleats to be secured prior to attaching it to the bodice. 

It was somewhat of a challenge for my fabric of the skirt portion of my dress to pleat according to these line segments and circles. The pleats are very close together and it would have been wiser to "gather" from one point to another.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*My typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and my upper narrow back adjustment. Next time, I plan to omit this petite adjustment. The bodice would have worked out fine without it, especially in a woven.

*I omitted the back and skirt lining.

*I hemmed and top-stitched the back neckline and back armholes.

*I left the lower hem of the lining of the lower bodice detached from the front skirt.

 

* Since I was using a knit, I omitted the invisible zipper.

*I omitted the back pleat, which I would keep I were using a woven.

 

Future Plans/Recommendations
I would not sew this again in my immediate future. Although I recommend this pattern, is helpful to make a muslin or a "run-though" version to work out fitting and construction issues.

Lining the back in the same fabric would have made the dress look more polished. The flattering style and the fit precluded me from giving this pattern a "mediocre"rating. "Easy" is a misnomer for the sewing level of this pattern. Considering the labor intensity, "Average" would be more appropriate.

Day-To-Night

Pattern Description/Sizing 
 "This sleeveless top has a drape front neckline which drapes elegantly at the front, making this top perfect for a dinner out or for clubbing all night long! But as well as being great for night time, this top is elegant and great for daytime at the office...

... Make it in a soft rayon jersey in a color that suits you well for an elegant look or make it in a fun print or a shiny fabric for a night on the town. The back neckline and armholes can either be finished with Fold Over Elastic or invisible elastic." The pattern ranges from a XS to a 4XL. I sewed a "M" at the shoulders and arms, tapering to a "L" at the hips. The pattern does not include seam allowances.  I purchased this pattern download at patternreview.com


Fabric Used: First version (dress): Soft (rayon?) jersey with red/aqua animal print from emmaonesock.com.   I was able to extract a dress from this pattern and a sleeveless top (from a "retro" pattern) using 2 yards of this fabric. 

Animal prints or safari inspired prints seem to continue trending. Speaking of multi-colored animal prints, here's a dress from designer Faviana.

Second version (top): Silk twill from gorgeousfabrics.com.  Because I cut the top on the bias grain, it is roomier than the photo suggests. Also, I noticed that the shoulder area behaves differently than that on the knit.  I actually prefer the "cutaway" shoulder style on me.

A JS Boutique "cutaway shoulder"dress from Nordstrom:

 



 On the topic of "polygons": 

From Dillards, a draped front top with smaller hexagons.

 I recently tried on a knit mock wrap dress in an octagonal print.  The wrap portion was higher than usual, which did not work out well on my short-waisted torso.

 

(More)

 Now "back" to the main topic of discussion, Maria's pattern:

 

Pattern Instructions 
They were written well accompanied by helpful photos, especially those for (1) pattern cutting and assembling the pieces, for (2) attaching the fold-over and the invisible elastic to finish the neckline and armscyes and (3) sewing the shoulder seams showing the placement of the front facing folded "behind" the back piece. I like Maria's use of photos of the actual construction of the top.


Favorite Features 
I can only rave about the ease of construction (only two main pattern pieces, front with draped facing and back formed by only 8 sheets (2 x 4) of the printed pattern taped together) and the "instant" chic of this top. Draped necklines are here to stay. In terms of the fit, it is one of the most figure flattering tops that I have made. 


Modifications/alterations:
First version:

 

*I lengthened the top to a dress. 

*The back was narrow enough for me to omit my usual modification in the upper back.

 *Instead of using foldover or invisible elastic, I cut a rectangular strip of the same fabric that is 1 1/2" wide and 9 1/4" long to bind the armscyes. The length might change depending on the type of knit you use. For the back of the neckline, I was able to top-stitch a 3/8" wide hem. 

 Second version: 

 

 * I cut the fabric along the bias. I attached a band along the lower edge (after removing 1 1/2" from the edge of the blouse) 

 *I used bias strips cut from the same fabric to bind the neck and armscyes. The method I used is identical to the one used in a review (just before this one) of three tops from another downloadable pattern. 




*I also sewed the sides in French seams

For both versions: *I made my usual petite adjustment of 3/4" at the waistline. 


Future Plans/Recommendations  
I don't think I will "retire" this pattern yet.  This pattern fits the bill for a quick gratification project and ideal for fabric remnants.  I highly recommend it all levels of sewists, especially to those who are new with knits.

Update: July 8:
I made version #3 in a Just Cavalli silk charmeuse from EOS.

 

I searched the web and found a $660 valued skirt in identical fabric on ebay.

I cut the two pieces on the bias.

Three Tops from a Freebie Two-Piece Pattern

Here is a free, downloadable pattern for a two-piece sleeveless top (can be easily converted to a dress by adding length) with a "keyhole" front opening. I would describe the top/dress having more of an "elliptical cutout" above the bust.

It comes in a misses' 6-8-10-12. 

No instructions are included, just the 12 pattern sheets in a PDF format to be taped together. 1/2" seam allowances are included.  The "keyhole" front opening can be left unfinished or finished with either a tiny hem or zig-zag.

In order for the pattern sheets to print out, instead of a miniature version of the pattern on one 8 1/2" by 11" sheet, I selected the "poster" option.

www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/clothing/cute-top-with-key...

 

It was simple to sew and fun to experiment with different looks.  I made three tops from this pattern!  It provides a nice silhouette that flares out gradually at the sides. However, I had to take in the lower portion, below my hips, to reduce the sideways extension.

The first (right) and third versions (left) of this top were sewn with fabric remnants of previous projects. 

First version (right and my least favorite): matte jersey from a knit dress in my previous review.
 
Second version (center, fabric cut on the bias): A colorful charmeuse or satiny type of polyester designed by "Suede Says" 

Third version (left, fabric cut on the bias to strategically get the pattern pieces to fit): A stretch cotton that was used in a Simplicity cropped jacket and a Vogue peplum top. 



On my first version, I cut the "ellipse" or "oval" exactly as marked by the size "12".  The size of the cutout was not flattering on me, emphasizing my bust. The keyhole "cutout" came out surprisingly larger using the given cutting lines.  After my efforts in stitching a tiny top-stitched hem, I obtained what I call a lopsided and "wavy" ellipse. One tug below the bust can be quite a revelation... I did not like the way it came out after a tiny top-stitched hem, resulting in what I call a lopsided and flimsy ellipse. One tug below the bust can be quite a revelation...

I  felt "hopeful" after seeing a Helmut Lang dress on Ellen Page. It has an "asymmetrical" opening.

A 2013 Tony Ward gown with a somewhat "crescent" cutout.

I omitted the keyhole front on my second version.

Just like for my first version, I lowered the neckline 1/4" and realized later that I would have to deduct from the width as well to prevent the neckline from drooping forward. I decided to keep the neckline intact as I did in my third or "botanically printed" version, which worked fine.

 I wore this just recently at our annual local county fair.  It was a very bright and warm Tuesday at the Del Mar Fairgrounds.

Other Pattern Alterations/Modifications 

*For all three tops, I used my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waistline. 

* I bound the edges with 3 bias strips (bands) that were cut from the same fabric with a 1 1/2" in width, so that one that will be long enough to encircle the neckline, and two will be long enough to encircle each of the armscyes. While stretching the bias strip a little, I pinned the "right" or visible side of each strip to the inside along the corresponding edge.

* After the stitching the right side of one strip to the inside, approximately 1/8" from the edge of the neckline or an armscye, stopping a few stitches before and after a reference point (such as the center back of the neckline and the upper part of the side seam for the armscye), I stitched the seam of the "band", trimmed the excess length, and resumed stitching the rest of the "band" to the edge of the neckline or the armscye.

*I turned the strip to the outside, tucked under the raw edge just above the seam allowance, folded and pressed down to the desired width of the "band" so that it covers the seam stitches. Then I top-stitched near the edge of the folded edge of the "band".


Here is my third version (my favorite) from this free pattern, made from a fabric remnant of two previous projects (a Simplicity jacket and a Vogue peplum top).
The keyhole had a tendency to stretch out (as evident in my first top in the leopard print). So for the third version, I cut a much smaller "ellipse" or "oval" because I was not thrilled about the original size (less flattering on me) on the leopard printed knit. Top-stitching is not enough, there should be a better way to "bind" the edges to prevent gaposis.

Conclusion:
Convenient pattern to use with fabric remnants that are at least 3/4 yard. You could even squeeze a top from slightly less material depending on your pattern placement. 

At one of the fair indoor exhibits, my daughter Heather being cool in this "Monopoly" race car (there is no "GO" for this vehicle) before having our yearly fried kool-aid indulgence at the fair.

Having some Fun-opoly 

Jersey Girls and Double Knit

From 1969, Misses' Dress in Three Versions for Knits and Jersey Only: A-line dress, with long or short set-in sleeves, has center back zipper. Long sleeved dress has collar included in neck facing seam and faced front opening turned back. Dress, with square neckline in front, has faced and interfaced neck and faced sleeves. High neck dress has faced neck and sleeves.  

 

Also from 1969, wearing Ringo, Paul, George, and John wearing some funky collars in front of a Rolls

Fabric Used: First version in a zig-zag printed rayon jersey and second version in a leopard printed matte jersey, both purchased from fabricmart.com

If you are interested, more photos and information in my "retro" blog:
Retro Specs

Missed the Twist

I sewed a top from this pattern before my "lipstick tubes-printed" top from Kwik Sew 2694.

 

Sizing:  Misses XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a "M" at the shoulders, tapering to a "L" at the hips.  

Fabric : A  French soft "stylized knit" from EOS.  As a quick fix for a very low neckline, I tacked the center 2" above the "twist".

Instructions They are understandable as typical of a Kwik Sew pattern.  As usual the diagrams nicely supplement already the straightforward instructions.  



Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that it was simple to sew and that the twist top style seems to be here to stay. The things that I am not fond of are the truly low depth of the neckline and the potential of the neckline hem showing at the "twist" (which can be resolved by self-facing the upper or bodice portion of the fronts. I was hoping that the neckline would be at an appropriate level to obviate the need for a tank or camisole underneath. To avoid indecent exposure, I had to tack the neckline 2 inches above the "twist", which also resulted in bringing upper sleeve seams "inward", thus narrowing the upper front.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
I performed my typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and narrowing the upper back by taking out 3/8' from the center back seam tapering to 0" above the waist.

Future Plans/Recommendations
I am not sure if I will sew this pattern again. 

I prefer Butterick 5283 (already OOP)

 

 

  and Jalie 2788 twist tops.

 

However, this Kwik Sew top makes a nice quick gratification project and can easily be a TNT after making any necessary customized alterations.  

Conclusion: I wish I had read Margaret's review (from patternreview.com) that nicely detailed raising the neckline and the under bust.