Cowl-Aesthetics with Sewaholic's Renfrew

Update: March 16, 2014, my fourth version in an ITY knit purchased from fashionfabricsclub.com:
 

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Original post:
A half dozen of "cowl-ympic" styles

 

I recently succumbed to the temptation of purchasing Sewaholic's Renfrew pattern at PR after reading many of  the currently available 105 reviews.

 

Pattern Description: Fitted knit top features banded hems with sleeve and neckline variations. View A has long sleeves and a scoop neckline. View B has short sleeves and a deep V neckline. View C has a dramatic cowl neckline and three-quarter length sleeves. Mix and match any of the sleeves with any of the neckline options for unlimited possibilities. I sewed "nearly" two versions of view C, the top with the cowl neckline due to the sleeve variations. For the first version, I used the short sleeves from view B, and for the second version, I used the long sleeves from view A. 

Size: Misses' 0-16. I sewed a "12".  

Fabric: 
Version #1: A stretch lycra remnant 

Version #2: An unconventional choice for a Renfrew cowl top, a rayon/cotton knit (EOS) in a bizarrely bold and busy geometric print (that may not be fancied by everyone) that has been in my stash since autumn 2012. 

"Cowl-aesthetics"

 

The amounts of fabric (view C) specified on the back of fabric needed were 2 1/4 yards (for 55"-60" width) and 3 yards (for a 44"-45" width) which were excessive.   I used well under the entire 1 1/2 yards of my fabric. 

                     Here are the remnants of my "quad-erratic" top:

Directions: I was able to rely mostly on the diagrams since there are no out of the ordinary methods presented. The directions and diagrams remind me of those from a typical Kwik Sew. I anticipate no problems if you are familiar with sewing basic tops or blouses.  


Favorite Features/Not-so Favorite Features:
The most salient feature is the very flattering fit. This top closely resembles the popular Kwik Sew 3740 due to the similar fit and styling, but I'm leaning more towards the Renfrew.  I like the way my second Renfrew top in the rayon jersey skims over my figure producing a "slenderizing" effect. 

Kwik Sew 3740 sewn nearly 2 years ago.  I am wearing it now as I type this.

 

The Renfrew seems to favor soft and stable knits. The depth and drape of the cowl is fine without adjustments. I found it somewhat higher and more flattering than Kwik Sew 3740.  The inner collar seam is well hidden (possibly due to the drafting of the collar not being a typical rectangle). 

 I wish I had this pattern when I sewed with knits for the first time. There is no need for a coverstitch or a serger because there are no hems to topstitch. Sleeve bands and a lower band are used to finish the edges taking away the worry about "wobbly" or "wavy" topstitching. 

Although I made a 1" petite adjustment at the waist, the top was longer on me especially with the lower band. Next time, I would remove 1" from the bottom before attaching the lower band.  

But maybe the longer length is what is trending as shown by this K Collins top:

Modifications/Alterations 
*Used sleeves from the other views for each version. 

 *Narrowed the upper back 3/8" from the center, tapering to 0" in line with the lower armscye. *Folded out a 1" petite adjustment at specified line on the pattern. 

 *Omitted the lower band for the long sleeves. Their lengths were fine without the bands. 

*For my second version, I shortened the sleeve cap by folding out 1/2" across due to the excess ease I encountered when sewing the sleeves in flat in my first version. 

*To juxtapose contrasting directions of the fabric print, I cut the lower band, against the cross grain of the fabric. Since the fabric had a two-way stretch, with less stretch in the vertical direction, I stretched the band a little to accommodate the circumference of the top's lower edge. 

*With the "busy" geometric print, I thought it would be fun to achieve symmetry at the sleeves.  

Recommendations/Conclusion:
This pattern is now my "go to" pattern for not only something quick and easy to sew but to use it as a "base pattern" to recreate my favorite RTW styles or to create a garment with personalized style features. The possibilities are endless. I am very glad that I purchased this pattern! With well over 100 reviews, I can see why this is a favorite in PR. 

High marks for Sewaholic's Renfrew!

The Renfrew cowl pattern has the potential to generate a variety of looks by fabric choice, the drape of the cowl, and sleeveless/sleeve lengths.

McCall of the Wild from 2001

 "Jungle January" hosted by Anne of  Pretty Grievances provided me the inspiration to use a leopard spotted crinkly poly woven that has been in my fabric stash for 9 months. This pattern has been in my stash for awhile (since 2001).  I purchased it due to view "A" in the animal print.

Pattern Description:
From 2001 (out of print): Pullover or wrap front top, with front darts, sleeveless, long or three-quarter length sleeve variations, neck and sleeve flounce options.  I sewed view "A" in a medium.


Instructions
They were satisfactory for view "A".  It was mentioned by Debbie Cook and Skye  (in their pattern reviews in patternreview.com) of the horrible directions for the view with the neckline ruffle.   As for view "A", I was able to sew it minimal guidance after a quick glance of the diagrams and skimming the directions.

Fabric Used:
Crinkled polyester (acetate/poly blend) from gorgeousfabrics.com.

Favorite Features
 I like view "A" due do its simplicity in construction, the front tie detail and ruffled sleeve flounces.

Not-so Favorite Features
The only thing I dislikes are excessive ease of the sleevehead,and the neckline finished with an interfaced facing.  I wish I had reduced the diameter of the circular sleeve flounces to reduce the "flare".  The hole to be cut at the center of the flounce piece would need to be cut wider to accommodate larger hands and wrists.  If my hands and wrists were any larger, I would have struggled slipping them past the lower edges of the sleeves that lead into the ruffled sleeve cuffs.


Alterations/Modifications

* Performed my typical narrowing of the upper back and a 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist.

 

* Trimmed the neckline facing (back facing flanked by two fronts) and converted them to strip 1 1/4" wide to encircle the neckline.  I stitched it 3/8" to the inner edge, turned it to the outside, pressed under a tiny hem and topstitched.  I added a center seam at the "v" point after topstitching the trim to the neckline.  I basted the front ties to the inner edge instead of the outer edge (per McCall's) before attaching the strip trim. 

* Instead of hemming the circular hem of each sleeve flounce, I cut an additional pair of the sleeve flounce circles in the same fabric to "self-face" each flounce.

* I took in the side seams an additional 1/4"

* Had to machine gather the lower edge of the sleeves to ease the sleeve flounce (the center hole of the flounce piece) onto the sleeves.

Future Plans/Conclusion:
I plan to sew another top from the same view . Despite the mediocre directions, I still recommend the pattern due to its fairly simple construction and the styles still being on trend. I spent more time with the neckline than expected due to drifting from the directions regarding the neckline and fiddling with the sleeve flounces.


Current tops with the front tie detail.  The Pucci top at the lower right has the flounced sleeve cuffs.

 

Making Waves with a McCall's 6844 Cardigan

Shawl collared cardigans........



It has been about 3 months since I worked on the sewing machine. Due to the many positive reviews of McCall's 6844, I was confident to try it.

Here is the peplum version with a slight "high-low" hem, that I did not sew. It is lovely, but peplums are unpredictable on me.
 

 Description: Misses/Miss Petite Cardigans: Close fitting cardigans (do not meet at center front) have collar extending int front band and narrow hem; A, C: Shaped hemline, wrong side shows. I sewed view "B".

 Size: XSm-Sml-Med, L-XL-XXL. I sewed a medium.

Fabric: Approximately 1 5/8 yards of "yarn-dyed serpentine-striped" from EOS that was in my stash for 21 months. Thank goodness it does not fray, which makes sewing with this lightweight knit a breeze.  I did the best I could with the continuity of the waves along the seams.

 

Likes:
(1) I agree with the "EASY" label, especially with view "B" not having the peplum.

(2) The flattering slight "flare" along the sides and the fit, neither snug or nor loose. The ease for me was sufficient for me not to wear a belt.

 (3) Instant chic: The style allows the cardigan to be casual, dramatic or elegant depending on the fabric you choose, and/or the accessories you wear.


Dislikes: I cannot think of any dislikes except for the back came which out looser than I had anticipated, and possibly due to the draping nature of the knit that I used, or the drafting.

 

 Directions:
They were easy to follow, with minor changes in the sequencing to further simplify the construction.

Summarizing the steps that were all printed on one two-sided sheet:
(1) Stitch the shoulder seams

(2) Attach the sleeves flat (instead of the side seams first and setting in the sleeves per the instructions) and hem the sleeves

(3) Stitch as one continuous seam the sleeve seam and side seam on both sides.

(4) Stitch the collar/front band at the center seam , stitch its facing in the same fabric along the un-notched edges and lower edges, right sides together, and turn the entire piece inside.

(5) Attach the front band to the front, right sides together, and hem the entire cardigan. I am not sure if would have been better to hem the fronts and back before attaching the front facing as instructed.



Alterations/Modifications 
I performed my typical narrowing at the upper back and 1" petite adjustment at the waist (using the marked petite adjustment line on the pattern),.

Stabilized the shoulder seams with a strip of interfacing prior to stitching.

Omitted interfacing the collar/front band.

Stitched the sleeves flat to the armholes. I did not encounter any problems easing the sleeve onto the edges of the armholes. I trimmed at most 3/8" from the sleeve cap's height after machine basting.

 Omitted the topstitching of the collar due to the "airy" nature of the knit. I just let the front drape "naturally" on its own.


Conclusion:
Without interruptions, this cardigan took me approximately 3 1/2 hours of sewing time (no serger), or simply one full evening.

McCall's 6844, already a popular pattern in Pattern Review and I can understand why. Not only that it is easy to sew and flattering, it has the potential to be addictive. I highly recommend this pattern for all levels of sewers/sewists.

Already my sewing mojo is returning. Of course, another cardigan is on my sewing queue.

I like Missoni, in general, but  I would have to spend a little over $700 to get these "lurex waves".

http://www.luisaviaroma.com/index.aspx#ItemSrv.ashx|SeasonId=59I&CollectionId=AGS&ItemId=15&SeasonMemoCode=actual&GenderMemoCode=women&CategoryId=&SubLineId=clothing&utm_source=Lyst&utm_medium=Datafeed&utm_campaign=Lyst-US

 

Happy New Year and Some Re-Sew-lutions

Time just flies! It has been 5 months since my last post. Maybe sometime soon, my sewing mojo will return.

I hope I am able to sew at least four items from my new year's wish-to-sew list (re-sew-lutions). 

 A new wrap dress, McCall's 6884,




Appealing styles from Burda Style magazine, such as these options from the December 2013 issue::

and/or these options from the October 2013 issue:
 


Also from the October 2013 issue:

 With attractively embossed fabric, Butterick 5995 would  put me in a festive mood!




But in the meantime, we wish you all a promising, prosperous,

 

 a cheerful, 

and a sweet new year!

Spool On Rouge with Vogue 8915

I used lots of red thread on a Vogue 8914 top and a dress.
"Misses' top, dress, belt, and pants: Pullover top or dress has self belt. Tapered pants have elasticized waist.   The pattern comes in Xsm-Sml-Med and Lrg-XL-XXL.   I sewed a medium and realized that this pattern has excessive ease. I sewed a small for my second version in a dress and it became more fitted, especially after increasing the side seams. I am not quite sure about it. 




The instructions were sufficient, especially if you have sewn garments that require only two main pattern pieces, the front and the back.

This is a dress by Akiko (found on myhabit.com) whose style is close to the pattern sketches:

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Features
I like that the top was easy to sew and that the top required approximately 3/4 of a yard of fabric. My dislikes are that I experienced "gaposis" at the neckline (front and back) and the belt is needed to cinch the top or dress due to the "sack"-like silhouette. I sized down to a "S" for my second version (dress). 


Fabric Used:
For my first version, 3/4 of a yard of fabric remnant of a previous project (three years?), a cotton woven with slight stretch. 

 

For my second version, a silk/charmeuse. I feel like some 1960's flight attendant. Fabric print placement was tricky due to the random configurations of red blocks.  I should have made something else with this fabric.

Modifications:

*For modesty, I raised the armscye, by stitching 1" above the marked circle (I could have gone a tad higher) or the start of the side seam.

Still the lower portion of the armhole is low :

*For the first version, made two small darts at the neckline to address the gaping or "draping" neckline. Otherwise, any more ease, and I could wear it in an updated "flashdance" style as in this Krizia dress:

*Used a bias strip in the same fabric to finish the neckline, instead of turning under the raw edges and top-stitching a narrow hem as directed.

*Made my typical petite adjustment at the waistline

* Narrowed the upper back 1/2" from the center (total 1" across) tapering to 0" above the waistline

*For my first version (the top), I created a "split" sleeve by not sewing the shoulder seam in its entirety. I made a narrow hem at the edges before hemming the lower edges of the sleeves. 

*Due to the fraying nature of the silk (dress version), I sewed the sides in French seams.

Future Plans/Recommendations
I plan to sew another top (not a dress) from this pattern.  This pattern is ideal to showcase fabric prints and for beginners. I recommend using fabric remnants just under a yard to determine if the pattern needs to be altered to your fitting preferences.

Conclusion:
I prefer this pattern as a top. 

Alternative look:
Instead of a belt, an elastized waistline is an option, as in this Michael Kors top. The contrasting fabric at the neckline and sleeve hems looks sleek.

 

Double Twist with Vogue 1327

             A RTW Anne Klein with the twisted upper bodice (already sold out)

                                               
                                   My pattern envelope of Vogue 1327.

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has bias, pleated, twisted upper front bodice, semi-fitted bodice, front pleated skirt, invisible back zipper and vent.

I was misled by "easy" label on this pattern. This would be "easy" if the dress consisted of two or three pieces and with much fewer and less elaborate instructions. I hope you benefit from my "learn by doing" experience. Maybe my shortcuts and "goofs" are your gain as well.

I sewed a "12".

Fabric Used:
Marc Jacobs houndstooth jersey that seemed to be lined with a lightweight and had a tendency to fray a little at the edges.
 
I am not certain about my dress looking like the one depicted on the pattern envelope because I used a printed fabric, and being not built like typical Vogue pattern models, I "fill" out the dress quite differently...

Instructions
I seemed to only use 20 of the 49 steps because I used a knit. For an "easy" pattern, this one seems quite extensive, in regards to lining the upper and lower bodice, lining the upper back and skirt portions, inserting a zipper, making the 13 little pleats below the waistline at the skirt front, binding the seams, finishing portions of the lining and hems by slip-stitching or hand-stitching, and making the lower back pleat at their skirt in conjunction with its lining. Steps 45-49 involve inserting a "lingerie strap" or "hanger strap". Although I followed less than half of the lengthy set of instructions, it is still not one of those "instant" or "quick gratification" projects.


Favorite and Not-So Favorite Features
I liked the twist front style with the "keyhole" or peek-a-boo front bodice. I had to really revert several times to the illustration showing the "double twist" of one side of the upper bodice. The lining of the upper bodice (in the same fabric) was done the same way. The upper bodice and its lining are stitched right sides together along the neckline (stopping at the "triangles" near the shoulder seams) and at the lower edge "between two marked circles" which designate what I call the "boundary points" or the start and stop of the upper part of the keyhole opening.

Pinning the lower bodice to the upper bodice that had already been lined in the same fabric was tricky because the "twist" had a tendency to revert to its original position! To "hold" the twist or prevent it from unraveling, I pinned the shoulders together, and took my time to pin the upper and lower bodices together as well as the upper and lower bodices of the lining.

What I thought would be a "piece of cake" were forming those 13 front pleats at the skirt! During cutting, I cut out narrow triangles to designate the width of each pleat. This helped somewhat to avoid the "vanishing chalk marks" that occurs with fabric manipulation. Because they were very close together, it was easy to miss the upcoming or consecutive basted pleat during stitching. I had to stitch, stop, push the fabric forward, so as not to "miss" the next pinned pleat. I wanted the pleats to be secured prior to attaching it to the bodice. 

It was somewhat of a challenge for my fabric of the skirt portion of my dress to pleat according to these line segments and circles. The pleats are very close together and it would have been wiser to "gather" from one point to another.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*My typical 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist and my upper narrow back adjustment. Next time, I plan to omit this petite adjustment. The bodice would have worked out fine without it, especially in a woven.

*I omitted the back and skirt lining.

*I hemmed and top-stitched the back neckline and back armholes.

*I left the lower hem of the lining of the lower bodice detached from the front skirt.

 

* Since I was using a knit, I omitted the invisible zipper.

*I omitted the back pleat, which I would keep I were using a woven.

 

Future Plans/Recommendations
I would not sew this again in my immediate future. Although I recommend this pattern, is helpful to make a muslin or a "run-though" version to work out fitting and construction issues.

Lining the back in the same fabric would have made the dress look more polished. The flattering style and the fit precluded me from giving this pattern a "mediocre"rating. "Easy" is a misnomer for the sewing level of this pattern. Considering the labor intensity, "Average" would be more appropriate.