Going Jacquard-i with a 1967 Butterick

Current dresses that closely resemble the styles of a 1967 pattern  that I will review are these from Ralph Lauren's spring 2014 collection.

Fashion inspiration:
Who could forget from the 1960's this magical and mod-tastic  "genie"?

Yup, it is Barbara Eden, who is now 82 years young!

From 1967, a sheath dress

Pattern description: 
Sleeveless, slightly A-line dress with funnel collar has squared armholes and button and top-stitch trim.  Front and back of dress are top-stitched to side panels.

Size: 
Misses', bust 34

Fabric:
Ace Jacquard Knit Tile Blue/White

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0340751/ace-jacquard-knit-tile-black-white

Likes/Dislikes 
I purchased this pattern on-line due to the  slightly-A-line style and funnel collar.  The design features that give this dress distinctiveness are the side panels bridging the front and back and with top hemmed edges rest below the armpits.   The dress seemed to be easy to sew, although I anticipated it would take more time than other sheath style dresses due to the front and back to be basted to the side pieces and topstitched along those edges.

I "shuddered" at the thought of having to face the front and back.  Because I was not able to think of a way to forgo the facings, I went ahead and cut them from the fabric. 

The faced edges (turned to the inside) of the front and back to the side panel will be basted and topstitched onto the edges of the side panels.

Front and back finished with front and back facing

Directions:   
Sufficient or bare-bone  directions  with detailed diagrams. The notches at the front and back facings (joined at the shoulder seams) align nicely with the corresponding notches at the front and back.

The dress took me nearly 16 hours to construct. The steps such as the  attaching the facings, overlaying and basting the front to the sides and
the back to the sides, and topstitching the edges are more involved
than suggested by the diagrams. 




I used the continuity of the fabric print design to assist me in aligning and basting the front and back to the corresponding seam allowances on the side panels.   As for the directions to attaching the zipper,  I was told to refer to those that came with the zipper.  However my zipper did not with any directions, due to being  purchased by the bulk from e*ay.   I find that the Colette tutorial to inserting an invisible zipper a very useful reference.

 I also handstitched the hems and the edges of the collar from the inside.

 Modifications:

My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

Narrowed the upper back 3/8" at the center seam 

Shortened the pattern 4" from the lower edge and hemmed an additional 2" using handstitching, making it a knee-length dress, appears longer in the photos. Mini-dresses are cool, but as I near 50 in about 2 years, I don't feel like taking my dresses to a "higher level". 

Omitted the side buttons.  They would not seem to work with the look of my dress.

Conclusion: 
If you have the patience for projects that require a lengthy time commitment, the  experience with sewing a zippered dress,  and a passionfor this style of a dress, then I recommend this pattern.  I would not recommend this as a "first dress" pattern due to the plethora of time to be invested in fabric placement, basting and topstitching. The time factor has precluded me from trying this pattern again, but I like the sense of accomplishment from adhering to a project that provided  a worthwhile challenge until its completion.  Contests such as my all-time favorite, the vintage sewing pattern contest,  give me that nice and
needed nudge to sew a theme-inspired garment.

Going Knot-ical with Style Arc's Abby Cardi

Trend: Cardigans with front ties.

I purchased the Abby Cardi with another Style Arc pattern last February and received the "Izzy" as a free pattern of the mongth.

 From StyleArc: "Great jersey cardi to have for all occasions, wear it over your cami or dress, knot it at the front or leave it casually hanging down casually. Optional 2 sleeve lengths." Available sizes are misses' 2-30.  I ordered a "12".

Fabric Used:
First version (green and black): ITY jersey knit from fashionfabricclub.com, on sale for $4.95/yard 

Second version (gray with waves): thin sweater knit from emmaonesock.com

 My first Abby cardi untied.  I prefer the "knotted" look

 

Instructions
I consider them satisfactory and sufficient. They consist of a list of steps assuming that you have experience in sewing basic garments.  They are not "user-friendly" and detailed with helpful diagrams found in Kwik Sew.   I used Thornberry's method for a clean and neat finish for the collars and folded front facing (using the "burrito" or "sausage" method) per Clothing Engineer's review of this pattern.

Likes/Dislikes
I have sewn Style Arc patterns in the past  and have been impressed with the available on-trend and classic styles that are wonderful additions to anybody's wardrobe.  It was easy to cut out and handle the pattern pieces that were printed on sturdy paper.  After use, they can be easily stored in the clear resealable envelope that the pattern illustration/directions and folded pattern sheet originally arrived in.

Nothing to dislike here.


Pattern alterations/Modifications
* 1" petite adjustment at the waist.

* For my green/black cardi, I lengthened the sleeves 1".  I did not do this to my gray cardi, due to paucity of fabric.


*Sewed a strip of interfacing to the shoulders of the back.


* Used the instructions for the a neat finish of the inside collar and placement of front facing with respect to the shoulder seams with the "burrito method" as described in Thornberry's blog I would not use this method for heavier knits.


 View of the collar and upper portion of the front facings from the inside. It was tricky to stitch at the inner corners:

*Turned in a narrow hem and topstitch along the fronts (reinforcing a little triangle turned in at each corner of the front ties)  and the lower edges of the sleeves and the entire cardi.  Using a serger would facilitate the construction.

Future Plans/RecommendationsI became "hooked" on this pattern after my first attempt and was able to make my second version on the same day (part of my spring vacation from work).

I plan to make my third cardi when I have some "free time" in the next month or so.

I definitely recommend this pattern due to the simplicity of construction, working with only five fabric pieces (two front, one back, two sleeves). A change of fabric produces an entirely different look and feel.

Cowl-Aesthetics with Sewaholic's Renfrew

Update: March 16, 2014, my fourth version in an ITY knit purchased from fashionfabricsclub.com:
 

Back:



Original post:
A half dozen of "cowl-ympic" styles

 

I recently succumbed to the temptation of purchasing Sewaholic's Renfrew pattern at PR after reading many of  the currently available 105 reviews.

 

Pattern Description: Fitted knit top features banded hems with sleeve and neckline variations. View A has long sleeves and a scoop neckline. View B has short sleeves and a deep V neckline. View C has a dramatic cowl neckline and three-quarter length sleeves. Mix and match any of the sleeves with any of the neckline options for unlimited possibilities. I sewed "nearly" two versions of view C, the top with the cowl neckline due to the sleeve variations. For the first version, I used the short sleeves from view B, and for the second version, I used the long sleeves from view A. 

Size: Misses' 0-16. I sewed a "12".  

Fabric: 
Version #1: A stretch lycra remnant 

Version #2: An unconventional choice for a Renfrew cowl top, a rayon/cotton knit (EOS) in a bizarrely bold and busy geometric print (that may not be fancied by everyone) that has been in my stash since autumn 2012. 

"Cowl-aesthetics"

 

The amounts of fabric (view C) specified on the back of fabric needed were 2 1/4 yards (for 55"-60" width) and 3 yards (for a 44"-45" width) which were excessive.   I used well under the entire 1 1/2 yards of my fabric. 

                     Here are the remnants of my "quad-erratic" top:

Directions: I was able to rely mostly on the diagrams since there are no out of the ordinary methods presented. The directions and diagrams remind me of those from a typical Kwik Sew. I anticipate no problems if you are familiar with sewing basic tops or blouses.  


Favorite Features/Not-so Favorite Features:
The most salient feature is the very flattering fit. This top closely resembles the popular Kwik Sew 3740 due to the similar fit and styling, but I'm leaning more towards the Renfrew.  I like the way my second Renfrew top in the rayon jersey skims over my figure producing a "slenderizing" effect. 

Kwik Sew 3740 sewn nearly 2 years ago.  I am wearing it now as I type this.

 

The Renfrew seems to favor soft and stable knits. The depth and drape of the cowl is fine without adjustments. I found it somewhat higher and more flattering than Kwik Sew 3740.  The inner collar seam is well hidden (possibly due to the drafting of the collar not being a typical rectangle). 

 I wish I had this pattern when I sewed with knits for the first time. There is no need for a coverstitch or a serger because there are no hems to topstitch. Sleeve bands and a lower band are used to finish the edges taking away the worry about "wobbly" or "wavy" topstitching. 

Although I made a 1" petite adjustment at the waist, the top was longer on me especially with the lower band. Next time, I would remove 1" from the bottom before attaching the lower band.  

But maybe the longer length is what is trending as shown by this K Collins top:

Modifications/Alterations 
*Used sleeves from the other views for each version. 

 *Narrowed the upper back 3/8" from the center, tapering to 0" in line with the lower armscye. *Folded out a 1" petite adjustment at specified line on the pattern. 

 *Omitted the lower band for the long sleeves. Their lengths were fine without the bands. 

*For my second version, I shortened the sleeve cap by folding out 1/2" across due to the excess ease I encountered when sewing the sleeves in flat in my first version. 

*To juxtapose contrasting directions of the fabric print, I cut the lower band, against the cross grain of the fabric. Since the fabric had a two-way stretch, with less stretch in the vertical direction, I stretched the band a little to accommodate the circumference of the top's lower edge. 

*With the "busy" geometric print, I thought it would be fun to achieve symmetry at the sleeves.  

Recommendations/Conclusion:
This pattern is now my "go to" pattern for not only something quick and easy to sew but to use it as a "base pattern" to recreate my favorite RTW styles or to create a garment with personalized style features. The possibilities are endless. I am very glad that I purchased this pattern! With well over 100 reviews, I can see why this is a favorite in PR. 

High marks for Sewaholic's Renfrew!

The Renfrew cowl pattern has the potential to generate a variety of looks by fabric choice, the drape of the cowl, and sleeveless/sleeve lengths.

McCall of the Wild from 2001

 "Jungle January" hosted by Anne of  Pretty Grievances provided me the inspiration to use a leopard spotted crinkly poly woven that has been in my fabric stash for 9 months. This pattern has been in my stash for awhile (since 2001).  I purchased it due to view "A" in the animal print.

Pattern Description:
From 2001 (out of print): Pullover or wrap front top, with front darts, sleeveless, long or three-quarter length sleeve variations, neck and sleeve flounce options.  I sewed view "A" in a medium.


Instructions
They were satisfactory for view "A".  It was mentioned by Debbie Cook and Skye  (in their pattern reviews in patternreview.com) of the horrible directions for the view with the neckline ruffle.   As for view "A", I was able to sew it minimal guidance after a quick glance of the diagrams and skimming the directions.

Fabric Used:
Crinkled polyester (acetate/poly blend) from gorgeousfabrics.com.

Favorite Features
 I like view "A" due do its simplicity in construction, the front tie detail and ruffled sleeve flounces.

Not-so Favorite Features
The only thing I dislikes are excessive ease of the sleevehead,and the neckline finished with an interfaced facing.  I wish I had reduced the diameter of the circular sleeve flounces to reduce the "flare".  The hole to be cut at the center of the flounce piece would need to be cut wider to accommodate larger hands and wrists.  If my hands and wrists were any larger, I would have struggled slipping them past the lower edges of the sleeves that lead into the ruffled sleeve cuffs.


Alterations/Modifications

* Performed my typical narrowing of the upper back and a 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist.

 

* Trimmed the neckline facing (back facing flanked by two fronts) and converted them to strip 1 1/4" wide to encircle the neckline.  I stitched it 3/8" to the inner edge, turned it to the outside, pressed under a tiny hem and topstitched.  I added a center seam at the "v" point after topstitching the trim to the neckline.  I basted the front ties to the inner edge instead of the outer edge (per McCall's) before attaching the strip trim. 

* Instead of hemming the circular hem of each sleeve flounce, I cut an additional pair of the sleeve flounce circles in the same fabric to "self-face" each flounce.

* I took in the side seams an additional 1/4"

* Had to machine gather the lower edge of the sleeves to ease the sleeve flounce (the center hole of the flounce piece) onto the sleeves.

Future Plans/Conclusion:
I plan to sew another top from the same view . Despite the mediocre directions, I still recommend the pattern due to its fairly simple construction and the styles still being on trend. I spent more time with the neckline than expected due to drifting from the directions regarding the neckline and fiddling with the sleeve flounces.


Current tops with the front tie detail.  The Pucci top at the lower right has the flounced sleeve cuffs.

 

Making Waves with a McCall's 6844 Cardigan

Shawl collared cardigans........



It has been about 3 months since I worked on the sewing machine. Due to the many positive reviews of McCall's 6844, I was confident to try it.

Here is the peplum version with a slight "high-low" hem, that I did not sew. It is lovely, but peplums are unpredictable on me.
 

 Description: Misses/Miss Petite Cardigans: Close fitting cardigans (do not meet at center front) have collar extending int front band and narrow hem; A, C: Shaped hemline, wrong side shows. I sewed view "B".

 Size: XSm-Sml-Med, L-XL-XXL. I sewed a medium.

Fabric: Approximately 1 5/8 yards of "yarn-dyed serpentine-striped" from EOS that was in my stash for 21 months. Thank goodness it does not fray, which makes sewing with this lightweight knit a breeze.  I did the best I could with the continuity of the waves along the seams.

 

Likes:
(1) I agree with the "EASY" label, especially with view "B" not having the peplum.

(2) The flattering slight "flare" along the sides and the fit, neither snug or nor loose. The ease for me was sufficient for me not to wear a belt.

 (3) Instant chic: The style allows the cardigan to be casual, dramatic or elegant depending on the fabric you choose, and/or the accessories you wear.


Dislikes: I cannot think of any dislikes except for the back came which out looser than I had anticipated, and possibly due to the draping nature of the knit that I used, or the drafting.

 

 Directions:
They were easy to follow, with minor changes in the sequencing to further simplify the construction.

Summarizing the steps that were all printed on one two-sided sheet:
(1) Stitch the shoulder seams

(2) Attach the sleeves flat (instead of the side seams first and setting in the sleeves per the instructions) and hem the sleeves

(3) Stitch as one continuous seam the sleeve seam and side seam on both sides.

(4) Stitch the collar/front band at the center seam , stitch its facing in the same fabric along the un-notched edges and lower edges, right sides together, and turn the entire piece inside.

(5) Attach the front band to the front, right sides together, and hem the entire cardigan. I am not sure if would have been better to hem the fronts and back before attaching the front facing as instructed.



Alterations/Modifications 
I performed my typical narrowing at the upper back and 1" petite adjustment at the waist (using the marked petite adjustment line on the pattern),.

Stabilized the shoulder seams with a strip of interfacing prior to stitching.

Omitted interfacing the collar/front band.

Stitched the sleeves flat to the armholes. I did not encounter any problems easing the sleeve onto the edges of the armholes. I trimmed at most 3/8" from the sleeve cap's height after machine basting.

 Omitted the topstitching of the collar due to the "airy" nature of the knit. I just let the front drape "naturally" on its own.


Conclusion:
Without interruptions, this cardigan took me approximately 3 1/2 hours of sewing time (no serger), or simply one full evening.

McCall's 6844, already a popular pattern in Pattern Review and I can understand why. Not only that it is easy to sew and flattering, it has the potential to be addictive. I highly recommend this pattern for all levels of sewers/sewists.

Already my sewing mojo is returning. Of course, another cardigan is on my sewing queue.

I like Missoni, in general, but  I would have to spend a little over $700 to get these "lurex waves".

http://www.luisaviaroma.com/index.aspx#ItemSrv.ashx|SeasonId=59I&CollectionId=AGS&ItemId=15&SeasonMemoCode=actual&GenderMemoCode=women&CategoryId=&SubLineId=clothing&utm_source=Lyst&utm_medium=Datafeed&utm_campaign=Lyst-US

 

Happy New Year and Some Re-Sew-lutions

Time just flies! It has been 5 months since my last post. Maybe sometime soon, my sewing mojo will return.

I hope I am able to sew at least four items from my new year's wish-to-sew list (re-sew-lutions). 

 A new wrap dress, McCall's 6884,




Appealing styles from Burda Style magazine, such as these options from the December 2013 issue::

and/or these options from the October 2013 issue:
 


Also from the October 2013 issue:

 With attractively embossed fabric, Butterick 5995 would  put me in a festive mood!




But in the meantime, we wish you all a promising, prosperous,

 

 a cheerful, 

and a sweet new year!