Lighting McSheen






It's amazing how together light and angle can affect the appearance of a subject! Despite wearing a black knit shirt underneath, this top now looks a bit risque and naughty for my taste and possibly looks like something a good mommy and a woman past her 30's wear should not wear. I guess I am becoming conservative as time goes on. Now I know I how fabric and style can appear differently in front of a camera under various lighting and taken from certain angles!

Pattern Description:
Knit tops with gathered front and sleeve variations.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-16


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except for the fabric and fit.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, assuming that you are familiar with methods such as gathering and stabilizing shoulder seams. They were brief and easy to follow.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the pattern because it is very easy to sew (top of front bodice, bottom of front bodice, back of bodice, and sleeve pieces) and has a timeless style. The neckline came down to an appropriate depth for me. The only thing I did not like was the given method to finish the neckline.


Fabric
Checkered printed spandex-type knit for my first version. I would achieve a different fit with a drapier knit.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

*Sizing
I sewed a "10" at the shoulders, sleeveheads, and armholes, tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips. A "12" would have been for me at the shoulders.

*Finishing the neckline
According to the instructions, a band of the same fabric was sewn at the raw edge and turned inward to make a narrow seam. Instead, I used a piece of 1/4" elastic at the neckline for my sister's top (first version) which kept the neckline intact. For my top, I used 3 strips (3/4" wide) of mesh cut on the bias: one for the left front, the second for the right front, and the third for the back of the neckline. I cut each mesh strip about 1 1/4" shorter than the length of each section of the neckline. Then I slightly stretched, pinned and sewed each mesh strip 1/4" from the raw edge (visible or right side of fabric) and folded inward to sew a narrow seam.

*V-Shaped neckline
This is something I first did to my sister's top (the true first version of this top, in a smaller size)to further stabilize the neckline at the "v" point and to reduce the bunching made by the elastic. In desperation to save my sister's top, I snipped about 1 1/2" past the "v" point and join the edges together to make a little vertical seam at the center of the bust. Wow! The top looked much better! Then I noticed that one of my RTW knit tops had the same detail, except that the vertical seam was much smaller, about 3/8" !

So for my top, I snipped about 1/2" past the "v" point. I saw a little sweetheart neckline formed as a result of this, but that was fine with me.

*Sleeves
I sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of setting them in as instructed. Then I sewed the sleeve seams tapering off to the side seams of the top.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, but in a drapier knit, for a more modest and palatable look. If I wear my current top in public, I would wear it underneath a blazer.

I definitely recommend this pattern not only because it is quick and easy to sew but it is very versatile! Making a muslin would help to figure out if the neckline is at the preferred depth. You could get an entire set of unique looking tops by changing the fabric, style of sleeves, and adding decorative trim!

Conclusion
This is a definitely a very easy pattern and sews up quickly! I like the "arched" empire waist which makes the top more interesting!

Criss Cross Applesauce

I purchased this pattern because of the attractive red criss cross top!





Pattern Description:
New Look did not provide one. The pattern consisted of 5 versions of a knit mock wrap top with long or short sleeves, wrap tie options, and a criss-cross front I sewed version "A", the long sleeved top with the criss cross front and wrap tie.

** Note: There are actually 6 pattern pieces, not 7 as printed on the back of the envelope.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' multi-size 6-16. I sewed a "14".


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for my fabric choice.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes! Sharon M describes and shows the process of the criss cross of the upper bodice very well!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that version "A" consisted of 4 pattern pieces (upper front bodice with front sleeve, lower front bodice, back with back of sleeve and the tie.

I could have gotten away with the center back seam and instead opt for cutting the back as one entire piece.

The criss-cross sections of the bodice took less time to construct than the wrap-around ties! They were one-sided and required hemming at the edges (a serger would be very handy and save so much time!). It would have been easy to cut the ties wider so that they could be folded in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitched along the side and one tie end and turned inside out at the other end!

I was happy that the neckline did not come low and gape as expected.


Fabric Used:
A mystery type of thin knit that is slightly sheer, somewhat slippery and tricky to handle, but hugs figure contours well and also gives a slenderizing effect!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
For my first version, I did not make any alterations. If I make any version of the top again, I would slightly lower the seam under the bustline while raising the neckline, maybe 3/8".

In making the narrow hems for the neckline and bottom edge, I sewed 1/4" from the raw edge, folded a narrow hem, tucking underneath the 1/4" allowance. I found that this method probably coupled with the type of fabric kept the neckline intact.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! This top would be ideal for sergers! If you enjoy sewing twist and wrap tops, then I highly recommend this pattern!

Conclusion
These tops are easy to construct and flatters all figures! After sewing this once, the next ones will be a breeze to whip up!

Dancing Princesses
Here are three ballerinas awaiting their winter dance recital (Heather's first!):





Heather, Sabrina, Aaliyah


Heather had the opportunity to get to know Sabrina better. Aaliyah is also 4 years old.

Naomi arrived at the chorus room (dressing room for the female dancers) cuing them to get set for their numbers. There seemed to be more action at the wings than on stage and in the audience! The curtains were closed behind the singers while they performed (what seemed to be an endless string of songs while the little dancers waited patiently and eagerly for their turn). The preteen/teen dancers were "trying" to cram some last-minute moves and lifts amidst the hushes and whispers.

Then "it's showtime"! The preteen/teen ballerinas performed the first version of Vivaldi's "Spring" and then the male dancers arrived onstage to dance with the ballerinas. As they left the stage, the darling dancing princesses arrived with their version of "Spring" (3:40 pm?) I was so elated and relieved to see my precious Heather perform her official first dance recital (technically her second one). She was dancing her heart away with her innocent face glowing with those expressive big and beautiful brown eyes looking somewhere, probably unaware of the audience in front of her. Little Sabrina probably panicked and bawled, running off the stage. She returned probably after mustering up more courage.

I was in my own little corner of a section in the wings, capturing a moment on film, near the floor to avoid being in the way of the other dancers and other stage "mothers" and also absorbing the effects of the spotlight which made the dancers appear pinkish. At least I had a fine view of Heather, despite certain circumstances, enjoying the spotlight and being a dancing princes for a brief instant. It seemed as if the little ladies were crammed altogether, which made it difficult for them to move freely and confidently. This was Heather's only dance which seemed to be an intense and uplifting experience. I felt that her father, grandma, and grandpa were tresuring this moment. As Jorgen asked Heather after the show, "Did you have fun?" The fun overrides any dance misteps and goofs that occur. What else can you expect from a child?

A description of Dec. 9, 2007. Just one of many "fun" and interesting days for us but most importantly, for Heatherina, the ballerina!

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Spring into Winter

My Vivaldi Ballerina fresh as springtime!




First impression: Easy to make!
Second impression: Not easy to make!
Last impression: Finally made!

I thought this would be an easy project to take on. I tried my best to copy a ballerina gown loaned to me by Heather's lead dance teacher: a gown that consisted of a velour spandex/stretch/knit leotard bodice and an attached semi-sheer nylon skirt adorned with strips of fabric flowers.

I admit it's my fault for procrastination, but I did what I can with time available after work and other responsibilities and duties. I waited three days prior to Heather's first ballet recital to create what I thought would be a quick and easy gown, which ended up being what I call a "creative challenge with certain constraints (time and materials)", but still a worthwhile experience.

Process
(1) I had a difficult time finding the material for the top and skirt! Maybe I was searching in the wrong places! At Joann's, Heather saw a ready-made "fairy" light purple leotard. I was originally resistant to buy it, thinking that I would find the material to sew the leotard. After my tireless search in Joann's and a nearby Yardage Town, we returned to Joann's and without hesitation, reservation, and regret, I purchased the RTW leotard, with the belief that it might fit Heather.

(2) Sew-on fabric flowers? Easy to find? No!!!!!!!!!!! It seems that when there is a purpose to shop, it seems that the shopping becomes purpose-less! We tried searching Michael's (finally found the pink holiday tree we wanted!), Yardage Town, and a shop that specializes in fabric flowers for special occasions for some little fabric flowers. Again...zilch! I could not find any pink, blue, purple flowers with each having a diameter of 1". If I did find little flowers with potential, they had stems. I told Heather that we give it one more try at Michael's. We went to the bridal/special occasion section at Michaels and spent about $20 in the little pink and light lavendar fabric flowers with stems, including Heather's $3 book of great illustrated classics for children. I cut off the flowers from the stems and hand-sewed them (one by one) onto the organdy ribbon strips. I made 6 strips (2 side, 1 back, 3 front) of flowers and one long one to tie around her hair bun at the back of her head.


While clearing the living room, I found one of Heather's artificial leis on the ground. If only this incident arrived before making her gown! Then
**light bulb **(that turned on a little too late!) I could have gone to a party supplies store and purchased several leis to take them apart for the vibrantly colorful fabric flowers (99 cents a lei!)!!

(3) Skirt: I was not able to find a semi sheer nylon mesh (probably used for the underlinings of window curtains) and opted for the closest I could find - a more delicate sheer mesh, more suitable for tutus. I hand gathered nearly 8 feet wide of the mesh using running stitches, being careful not to pull the thread and redoing the entire process. I took my time in pinning, hand basting. and machine stitching the skirt to the leotard. I hope that the skirt survives through one dance recital!


Conclusion
Heather was very excited to witness the process of sewing the gown and see the result! She became somewhat frustrated and disheartened when I experienced some difficulty in attaching the skirt to the bodice and in figuring how to make the bodice fit once I finally sewed the skirt. She saw my growing frustration with what seemed an impossible task to gather and re-gather the skirt with challenging fabric to work with and the bodice being somewhat tight below the torso and fitting lower on chest area after putting velcro ends together.

Simple solutions (ironically, after some thought):
For the tight bodice:
I sewed a 2" velour knit extension (made from remnants) to the velcro ends of the crotch of the leotard.

For the bodice that comes low:
I discovered this during the dress rehearsal. I kept Heather's pink spandex leotard underneath. She also would not have to worry about the gown's upper bodice edge gaping.

It's very valuable for children to see our frustrations and perseverence in what we do!

Yeah! Heather's dress survived after her first dance recital!

Have It Your Way!

It's time to build-a-jacket consisting of the following elements:

Collar and buttons:
Michael Kors Satin Swing Jacket from Macy's for 179.50


Gathered effect
Ella Moss' Charleston cropped jacket from SFA for $183:


Bell sleeves:
Kensie Girl's cropped jacket from Nordy's for $74:


Frenchi's bell sleeved jacket from Nordy's for $68:


and voila we get a jacket from Simplcity's 3538:


My pattern envelope:


My first version:


Finally, got it done by 3pm today (one evening and morning-afternoon!) This was more time extensive than I anticipated!


If you like the concept of building your own burger or building-a-bear, and so forth, then you probably will enjoy to have it your way and build your own jacket! It's like given a menu of 20 pieces and telling oneself, "I'll have a long, not cropped, high collar jacket with a gathered front, bell sleeves on the side, topped with two buttons and do not forget the lining!"


Pattern Description

Misses' jacket in two lengths with yoke, collar and sleeve variations. Originally upon looking at the pattern collection advertised on the Simplicity website, I was led to believe that the outfits were either inspired by Project Runway designs or featured on the famous tv show. Oops, I was duped! "Project Runway inspired" was far from my expectations, and the jackets pictured on the envelope look like reinvented styles of previous and current patterns. That sneaky Simplicity!

The "sketch and stitch from concepts to design to reality" page contains a croquis (from the French word meaning a rough draft: sketch) kit and some design tips, workroom tips, and a paragraph about acquiring and using inspiration to create an outfit or an entire wardrobe. The croquis skit is simply a printed template or layout of the design elements (low/high collar, types of sleeves, gathered or flat front) on which you can use tracing paper to sketch and slide from one element to another. There's even a sketch of a nude, bald and faceless paper doll to "try on" an outfit and sport a hairstyle of your choice! Another alternative would be to xerox several copies of the template and cut and paste. This sure reminds me of playing paper dolls and "fashion plates" ! I have not really watched an episode of Project Runway to safely conclude that Simplicity's croquis kit or the printed pattern elements comes close to playing Project Runway in the comfort and convenience of your home!

It was straightforward to figure out pieces I needed for the view that I wanted without spending the time to draw, paste cutouts of each design element, and color pictures. This would be definitely great for creating a storyboard or a bulletin board of inspirations and favorite designs to create a "dream" wardrobe.

Size
12-20. I sewed a "14".

Fabric Used
Mystery pinstripe rayon/polyester from Joann's clearance section for $2.50 yard. Total cost of jacket: well under $10!

Modifications/alterations
Nothing major. I sewed a small silver bead to each button's center to add a little spark. Each button had nice cutout design of a five-petaled flower which could be easily seen on lighter colored fabric.

My collar came out not as huge as pictured on the model.


Directions

This is the first pattern I used that did not have the full cutting layout shown for each view along with the list of the pieces by their labeled numbers. The cutting layout was shown for each "design element": collar (low, high), ), yoke (for low or high collar), gathered or flat front bodice below the yoke, sleeve (short puffy, long puffy, long with slit, belled past the elbow. In fact, I referred to the sketch of all 20 pieces and analyzed the pattern pieces after cutting to determine what I needed for the bell-sleeved view featured on the pattern envelope. Then I listed the pattern piece numbers next to the technical sketch.

The directions and illustrations were overall fine. I found it helpful to pencil mark the sections I needed for a particular style, paying attention to the references to the type of collar (low, high), front bodice style (gathered or flat), sleeve style (short puffy, long puffy, long with slit, belled past the elbow), and the type of yoke (for low or high collar).


What did you like/dislike about the pattern

I liked the overall jacket's silhouette and the slightly flared sleeves

The lining was sewn the same way as the jacket, but sans the collar. All of the lining pieces were cut from the same pieces used for the bodice, yoke and back. I noticed that the front interfaced facings were attached to the lining differently from the last time I sewed jacket/blazer with pieces specifically designed for the lining.

I sewed each of the interfaced front facing pieces (bias tape binding on the the free edges) to the front edge of the lining so that the wrong side of the front facing is on the correct side of the lining. Then to secure the front facing, I sewed along edges of the bias binding.

I like the fact the lining was easy to attach to the jacket. I sewed it to the edges of the jacket, right sides together. Then I turned the jacket right side out through one of the armholes. I was pleasantly surprised that the front facing stayed nice and flat beneath the front edges of the jacket!

I was not really too "jazzed" up about Simplicity's croquis kit concept, which seemed like a marketing ploy to me. I would have like the pattern better without it!


Would you recommend this pattern?

Yes because it provides the potential to create endless styling options! The jacket is somewhat boxy. I like princess seamed jackets due to their flattering fit, but it is sometimes fun to try something else for a change. The slightly gathered front adds some shaping in the bust area. I would caution about the length. Even the "long" version seemed like a slightly cropped-style jacket on me without adjustments!

But if you want an easy jacket to be done in less time, I would recommend the very easy Vogue jackets. Variations in style could contribute to increased sewing time. My bell ruffle sleeves and collar might be the culprits for time investment. But on a positive note, I was glad that the pinstripes of the top part of the sleeve lined up with the ruffle and that the pinstripes came out at an angle and symmetrical at the collar (that's too make up how the yoke stripes and bottom did not align due to the gathers)!


Conclustion

The jacket was easy to put together, but somewhat time-consuming than I thought for a simple design! It seemed as if I were making nearly two jackets with the addition of the lining for back and front yoke pieces, the front and back below the yoke pieces, and the sleeve portion above the bell ruffle. I have not used lining in awhile. But it does give the jacket some shape and needed layering, especially for chilly days!

I honestly did not care for the sketching and coloring page. Simplicity could have done away with this concept and replace it with the actual designs of what was featured on Project Runway!

Draping with Paisleys and Flowers

This is my second version of Simplicity 3682.


I recently purchased this wild fabric from Lucy's Fabrics (lucysfabric.com). Despite the vibrant colors and overwhelming print, it really is very comfortable and flattering. I don't think there's fabric like this in local stores! Burda WOF June 2007 issue featured this as the fabric of an alluring top.

"The back with a deeply plunging neckline in a mock wrap-over look is definitely the attention-grabber on this colourful jersey top with cutaway shoulders. The front is plain and high-necked. Team it with the matching skirt at left for a trendy, two-piece summer dress!"


I sewed the sleeves flat instead of setting in the sleeves per Simplicity's directions. Then I sewed the sleeve seams and the side side seams as one continuous seam.



Simplicity 3682:


Sleeveless drape top by Semantiks





Reader Comments
Seamingly Simple 9/16/07 It sure did work! Your top looks great.
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Em's Summer 9/16/07 Now this is a really cute blouse! Thanks for pointing out this pattern!
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Vonnevo 9/16/07 Lovely top and fabric ! !
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bunz 9/16/07 Oh, this is a definite winner!
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mikkim 9/17/07 Your top is adorable. Thanks for the review--I hadn't noticed this pattern before but it looks like a good one.
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ryan's mom 9/17/07 Fabric is terrific and it's a lovely style on you! This is a winner!!
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HeathersMom 9/17/07 Thanks for the sweet comments!
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Lisa Merry 10/13/07 Wow, that is such a cool fabric and the style looks great on you!
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Seamingly Simple 10/13/07 That fabric is so YOU! What a neat detail the built-in camisole is. I can see that this pattern will become a favourite. BTW, I like your new name but thought it was HeatherRisque when I first read it!
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cindy-lou 10/13/07 Heatherrique, I love your new name-- tres francaise, and very fashionable! I also LOVE your new top-- a real winner! I agree about knits-- occasionally you have to kiss a frog with them, but when they're good, they are really really good (like this time)! Great work!
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EveS 10/14/07 Umm, you got that at JOANNS?! I need to shop in your neighborhood!! I have that very same fabric aging nicely in stash...I bought it from a fellow PR member...only after it had been sold out @ Lucy's Fabrics!! (Burda used it in one of their mags, too.) Wow. Anyway, great top as always and great use of a fabric I absolutely love! I like the cami, too. (shelving my JoAnn's jealousy now) :)
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Em's Summer 10/14/07 Great fabric and great top! I saw the pic in the gallery and thought, huh? That looks like Heather's Mom. And when I looked at the review, I thought...that IS Heather's Mom. Great new name!
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Round and Round We Go!

Stuff from Duff and More-a from Dora!




Lighting changes the mood!





Hilary Duff's outfits are fashion forward and retro at the same time!


Size-zipper pants from New Look


I want to give my deepest appreciation and thanks to Annette1 for encouraging me to make another of the ring collar style that she liked on me from a previous review.

My daughter spotted this pattern on McCallpattern.com and mentioned that her friend Hilary has patterns for ladies just like the girls. That did not make sense to me. I don't think I can dress like a tween or teen. But her designs seem geared for the "older" girls!

Pattern Description
MISSES’ LINED DRESS AND LEGGINGS: Lined, loose fitting, A-line dress, 5" above mid-knee, has gathered neckline, back opening and bias turned down collar with button and fabric loops; dress A has cut-in shoulders; dress B has above elbow sleeves with turned back cuffs; leggings, below mid-calf, have elasticized waist and no side seams. The best description I would give the collar is that it has a mini-cowl quality to it. After it is sewn to the neck, it is turned outward.

I shortened the dress to create a top and sewed pants (same material as top) with slightly lowered wide waist band and side-zipper made from
Sizing
Misses' 10-12-14-16. I sewed a "14" which turned out bigger than expected (tentlike for my taste). I could have gotten away with a "12" for this pattern.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. The dress consisted of only the front, back, collar and button loops. Attaching the collar was not a problem (lining up the notches and markings along the neckline and sewing the seam). The directions and even the picture on button placement were not clear on where to place the two buttons.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The dress is definitely very easy that a beginner would find little or no difficulty in creating it. It is definitely a very comfortable dress/top. However, the back closure of the collar which consisted of two buttons and their loops along with the folded collar could be reworked to reduce some bulk. After one day, the neck collar was not overwhelming as before because it was cut on the bias and had time to expand on its own.

I did not think that the gathered back flattered my back that well or possibly I was accustomed to a more fitted back. I think that this is part of the trapeze style of the dress.

Fabric Used:
Mystery woven fabric from Joann's clearance section for $2.50 yard

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I skipped the lining. If I made the dress, I would add the lining so that the arms would have a more natural finish. You don't have to worry about fitting issues for a trapeze dress.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. I made the top version in one afternoon and I would be able to sew the lined dress version in the same amount of time or maybe less once I was familiar with the steps.

What took me longer was fiddling with the back closure to minimize the puffiness at the back of the neck. I will make the dress in its sleeve and sleeveless versions.

Conclusion
An easy dress to make which surprised me considering this is quite the opposite from the first Duff pattern I sewed.

From October 6, in reference to the 60's green ring collared dress on PR from a very sweet lady:
Hi there. I'm always admiring your creations on PR, and today I saw a pattern in the Vogue book that I thought would look really cute on you. (Vogues were on sale at Joann's for $3.99 apiece through October 8. I couldn't believe it. I didn't even know they were having a sale ... just happened to wander in, because I never pass up a fabric store.)

Anyway, I thought I'd pass on the number, just in case you're in the market for another pattern that has that circle/halter style neckline, or whatever you call it, like your green dress you made. That style is so flattering on you, because you have good shoulders ... which is more than can be said for those of us with no shoulders whatsoever. :o) Anyway, the pattern number is Vogue 8229, and this is a link where you can see the picture: http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8229.htm?tab=very_easy_vogue_dresses_br_includes_koko_beall_designer&page=3. You know, just in case you don't have enough patterns already!

Happy sewing, Annette.

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Hi Annette!

Thanks for the recommendation! Although I liked the style, I did not find the ring collar dress the most flattering on me as on another. Maybe I should stop comparing myself to a drawing or those toothpick and expressionless models. I just have more luck with the fit of those outfits made from 60's/70's patterns. One PR member told me that the 70's was the last era to create fashions for "real" figures! Sometimes I cannot fit into a misses' large. My mom thinks that today's large seemed to be equivalent to a S/M back in the good old days. Huh?

But it is nice to have another person see things from a different perspective! I really appreciate the sincere compliments and encouraging feedback that you post! I also enjoy admiring your work and reading your reviews , which I find very informative. You have given me much inspiration. I could also tell that not you are very kind and generous, but witty and fun (you seem that you could liven up a party or girls' night out! Whoo hoo!

You gotta goofy friend in San Diego!
_____________ _______________

P.S. If you ever feel the need to visit beautiful and traffic-congested San Diego, feel free to give me a buzz.

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_________a:

I LOVE your name. :o) I kept thinking of you as Heather, and then I'd think, no, that's her daughter ... both beautiful names. :o)

Well, if patterns from the '70s are made for "real" people, THEN I'D BETTER MOVE TO THE '70s! In fact, I just bought a couple of patterns from Lanetz Living that (I think) are '70s vintage. I'm always on the look-out for wide-legged pants patterns, and these look in the drawings to have a nice cut to them.

I just now finished the third of the five smocks I'm making for the humane society volunteers. I can't WAIT till they're done. :o( It's really boring sewing the SAME thing over and over. The only difference is the fabrics used, which all have some sort of cats or dogs on them. Once I get them done (and two more toiletry kits), then I can sew for ME-ME-ME! :o) I got some fabric from Fabric Mart Fabrics that is a brocade (I think). I get brocades and jacquards mixed up. At any rate, I like the wrong side almost better than the right side, but the right side is so pretty (fancier), that it would be a shame not to use it, so I'm thinking maybe a loose-fitting reversible jacket. That's the BIG PLAN anyway.

San Diego! I'd be lost for sure. Living here in PO DUNK (aka David City, Nebraska), we're in the BOONIES, I'm telling you. I've moved around much of my life, so I know boonies when I see them. It took me a while to get used to it, but now I really like it.

It looks like it's FINALLY going to cool down, so I can't wait! (Tonight it's cool and rainy.)

Every little girl should be so lucky to have a mom like you, that's all I can say. :o)

Happy sewing, Annette.

Crazy Eights

From 1965:





Pattern Description
From 1965: "Misses' Dress in Three Versions. Long waisted dress, with double-breasted bodice and five section skirt, may be sleeveless or have above-elbow length set-in sleeves. Notched shawl collar, cut in one with bodice fronts, is faced and interfaced. Skirt has pleat at left front in wrap-around effect. Dress with sleeves may have contrast skirt. I made the sleeveless version.

Size
Size 16, Bust 36"

Fabric
Cotton printed with rows and columns of ittle splattered stars. I spent $6 for 3 yds of fabric at W - M.

Directions
* The instructions and diagrams were overall good for advanced beginners and beyond. Only two or three diagrams needed more specific verbal directions so that a step would not be missed or misinterpreted.
* I was able to construct some parts with little or no instruction.
* Pieces have extensive markings: 5/8" seamlines, bodice darts (bust, two long ones in the front, under collar area, two long ones in the upper back), slash marks and reinforced stitching for the lapels
* The constuction of the front bodice along with the collar is similar to current shawl collar construction of tops or jackets.
- The left and right front pieces are sewn together, creating a center seam
- Below the center seam, the neck corners are reinforced before getting clipped or shashed. The edges formed are then sewn at the back shoulders of the back bodice piece.
* The slash marking at the front edge of the bodice are for creating the notches of the lapel.

Likes
* The overall style: the double breasted bodice, low waist, notched collar
* The bodice is also secured by eyes/hooks and snaps in addition to the buttons.
* The flattering elongated back darts


Dislikes
* The actual construction was more time consuming than I had anticipated. Those design sketches of what seemed like basic coat dresses on the pattern envelope were misleading!
* * The actual construction was more time consuming than I had anticipated. Those design sketches of what seemed like basic coat dresses on the pattern envelope were misleading!

* I was careless in following the instructions to attach the
back facing to the front facing (nearly skipped it!). Because I was doing my own thing, I attached the front facing to the neckline of the bodice and the rest of the facing to the right side of the dress. However, I was supposed to sew the back facing below the center seam and neckline of the front facing and its left and right edges to the seam shoulders of the front facing (before turning the entire front facing to the inside of the dress, and hence the right side of the back facing would land just below the neckline). Instead of ripping out stitches, I attached the back facing to the front facing after it was turned to the inside of the dress. I handstitched the bottom edge of the collar facing over the back facing.



Modifications
* Eliminated the front darts
* Used eight instead of six buttons (Aligning and adjusting the buttons to fit is easier said than done!)
* Although the instructions for bound buttonholes are useful, I used my machine's buttonhole feature.
* Larger lapels (I used a seam allowance smaller than 5/8")
* Eliminated the interfacing (fabric was firm enough)
* Maybe because I decreased the width of the back darts by 1/8", I discovered that the back panel of the skirt did not line up with the bottom edge of the back bodice because there was extra fabric. I cut the back panel of the skirt through the middle and added a center back seam at the back panel of the skirt. Actually the center back seam looked nice on the skirt!
* Shortened the length of the skirt by 4".


Conclusion
This dress would also look great in light woolens or a soft corduroy.

If I do make this again, I would skip making the skirt and convert the dress to a top.

I would not say that this 60's pattern is easy, but of moderate difficulty that requires a lot of time and attention to detail!

Paisley and Wine Puff

The drip droop sleeves with billowing sleeves are here!

From Newport News


I thought that was a nicer color than the "grape" I purchased. It wrinkles so easily!

McCall's haute couture version:



Update: Sept 27, 2007
Look at those puffy sleeves with banded bottoms:


Here's my second version:


First version:







Pattern Description
"Misses'/Miss Petite Shirts: Fitted shirt with front button closure has topstitched seams and sleeve variations." I sewed view B with the self fabric ties at the sleeve ends.

Pattern Sizing:
6-8-10-12-14 with McCall's "Made for You" bust cup measurements A/B, C, and D.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
* They were adequate.

* I noticed that the cutting layout was for the "D" size. I wrote the A/B numbered patterns next to the corresponding to the front and side front. I read the entire set of directions for view B and highlighted the ones that belonged to "B" to ensure that I would not skip anything. There were steps common to all views that seemed to belong to a particular view due to the format.

* The side front and side back are first sewn together.

* The sleeves are gathered at the top and bottom edges, seams are sewn and the bands are sewn to the gathered edges.

* The sleeves are attached to the side fronts and side backs (forming the bottom edge of the armscye), right sides together, matching notches.

* The front of the shirt is sewn to the side front and the back to the side back. The top gathered edge of the sleeves are set in to the upper armscyes.

* I found that hand basting (I used to believe that pin basting is adequate) the seams together before machine stitching really helps to keep the sleeve gathers together.

* This time I had an easier time in putting together the collar. The written directions were a little more specific (compared to those I encountered in previous patterns I worked with) in how the collar band and the collar are sewn together. I found that for me the front facings were a little tricky in positioning and sewing onto the outer seams of the collar before turning them to the inside of the top. When I turned the front facings to the inside, they did not exactly match the original fold lines.

*Topstitching the upper seams of the shoulders and the princess seams really pulls the look together.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the princess seams! The pieces even lined up nicely at the princess seams! The blouse was really "fitted" for my own taste! I could have decreased each seam by 1/4". I also liked the fact the front bodice pattern accommodates the 4 cup sizes.

Fabric Used:
Paisley printed cotton from W-M for $2 per yard. I was able to make this blouse and a sundress for my daughter. What a deal!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I used fewer buttons for the first version. The length of the blouse was fine without any adjustments. Since that was the case, the blouse on the envelope's model should have been higher on her due to her proportions!

For View B (the sleeves with ties)
I was surprised that the ties barely tied around my upper arms which are smaller for my proportions. I would add 2" to their length if I make this top the next time.

For View C (the banded sleeves)
The sleeves came out longer and a little larger than expected. But I ended up liking them anyway.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, in another fabric! Yes, I would recommend this pattern because of its timeless style, versatile sizing and that it is easy to work with!

Conclusion
This is absolutely a nice shirt pattern that can easily be a TNT pattern!


(Updated Sept. 23)

Knit Fit for Knit Wit....It's also Emmy Night!!!!

I find drape tops very flattering!










flickr link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/83461746@N00/1389641686/in/set-72157600382180795/

Simplicity View Finder:
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=3682

Close up

Drape top from Neiman Marcus

Pattern Description:
Misses' knit tunic and tops. (That's all mentioned by Simplicity!)
There were six views. Views A and B are gathered at the top edge and have short gathered sleeves. Views C and D are also gathered at the top edge, have empire styling and long sleeves, with sleeves gathered at the top. When I first saw View C and D, images of the Gibson Girl and 1890's fashion come to mind! Views E and F have built in camisoles, draped fronts, and either 3/4 sleeves or long sleeves with elasticized wrists. I sewed View F which was shorter in length than View E.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-8-10-12-14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except the top seemed to have more drape in the illustrations.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were sufficient. This is definitely an easy pattern, but also easy enough for simple errors to happen (when rushing)! I had to make sure that I sewed the overlay's incorrect side to the right side of the fabric and aligned the points where the folded upper edge of the front overlay and the built-in tank top meet. I was somewhat surprised that I was a bit puzzled by the somewhat vague directions and illustration to attach the back to the front of the top, right sides together. It would have been helpful to show that the back was really placed over the front overlay (before sewing the side seams), especially for somebody who has never sewn with overlays!

I used the method described to finish the neck and bottom by folding along a 5/8" stitch from the edge (making sure the stitching is not visible from the outside),tucking the raw edge under, and stitching. Finishing the neck edges and the hem probably would have been easier with a serger!


Pattern Description:
Misses' knit tunic and tops. (That's all mentioned by Simplicity!)
There were six views. Views A and B are gathered at the upper edge and have short gathered sleeves. Views C and D are also gathered at the upper edge, have empire styling and long sleeves, with sleeves gathered at the top. When I first saw View C and D, images of the Gibson Girl and 1890's fashion come to mind! Views E and F have built in camisoles, draped fronts, and either 3/4 sleeves or long sleeves with elasticized wrists. I sewed View F which was shorter in length than View E.

Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-8-10-12-14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except the top seemed to have more drape in the illustrations.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were sufficient. This is definitely an easy pattern, but also easy enough for simple errors to happen (when rushing)! I had to make sure that I sewed the overlay's incorrect side to the right side of the fabric and aligned the points where the folded upper edge of the front overlay and the built-in tank top meet. I was somewhat surprised that I was a bit puzzled by the somewhat vague directions and illustration to attach the back to the front of the top, right sides together. It would have been helpful to show that the back was really placed over the front overlay (before sewing the side seams), especially for somebody who has never sewn with overlays!

I used the method described to finish the neck and bottom by folding along a 5/8" stitch from the edge (making sure the stitching is not visible from the outside),tucking the raw edge under, and stitching. Finishing the neck edges and the hem probably would have been easier with a serger!


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I finally found a pattern that looked like one of my favorite RTW top that I purchased months ago. I liked the drape front and the built-in tank underneath and the fact the blouse is simple to make. The view I sewed consisted of only four pieces (the front, back, front overlay, and sleeve).


Fabric Used:
Mystery stretch/lycra/spandex fabric from Joann's clearance section.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I zigzagged the upper edge of the front overlay before folding it along the fold line. Other than that, I left the pattern as is. I did not encounter major fitting issues. If I were longer in the torso, I would definitely lengthen the entire blouse a little. I also found the armscye a little high. For those who have different proportions (I'm only 5'1" , short in the torso, arms and legs made for a woman who is 5'6", average weight), you might have to adjust accordingly. If I had broader shoulders and more muscle in the upper arms, I would have to alter the pattern so that I have would have more freedom of movement. The nature of the fabric would also have to be taken into account.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I might make a short sleeve version similar to my RTW top. The other views are also worth trying and are so "in" now. I sewed my version in one evening! I really recommend this pattern for those who want something stylish that is fuss-free, self-gratifying, and is easy to put together!

Working with this pattern is definitely a welcoming change after completing more challenging projects such as my recent labor of love, the 30 piece Simplicity 5376!


Conclusion
I usually avoid sewing with knits due to past experiences with finished products that looked unflattering and revealed more than what I wanted to show. But this pattern convinced me that knits coupled with certain styles can work!

Bohemian Wrap-sody"

Tops with Boho flair:


Here's my take on these empire waist tops:




Bohemian "Unwrap"sody


What? A belt instead of an empire waist casing?

Alternatives to the empire waist style!

Spiegel's Silk Blouson


LaBelle


Laundry by Sagal


Lepore


Have you tried something that looked enticing from the cover or packaging and discover along the way, that you were misled?

Pattern Description
"Misses' Tops nad Tunics: Tops and tunics have raglan sleeves, waistline elastic casings and ribbon bow. I sewed View B whose sleeves contain elastic casings at the wrists. The artwork on the envelope pattern enticed me to purchase at a Joann's sale some time ago.

The last time I wore an empire waist top was when I was pregnant five years ago. I sewed several maternity McCall's empire waist tops that had the back ties. They were very trendy looking for mommies-to-be! Although I really like the boho look of this top, I wish I could confidently wear the empire waist as I did before and during pregnancy. Being honest with myself, I decided to skip the empire waist look and pursue an alternative look.

I found some ideas
Shelli Sagal's Printed Jersey Dress at Nordy's (check out that retro hair!)

La Belle's Floral Charmeuse Dress at Macy's

Sizing
Misses' XS-S-MED. I sewed a medium. The top billowed out (tent style) without the empire waist elastic.

Fabric Used
A shiny and silky polyester from Joann's. Not quite charmeuse? Although it easy to work with, it can slightly fray (some thin threads protruding wildly!) I sewed 1/4" hems before turning 1/2" under to sew the neck and wrist casings.

What did you like or dislike about the pattern?

Likes
*Ease of construction
*Pieces for View B consited of the front, back and sleeve.
*The directions were easy to follow, although I somewhere switched the order of construction.
*Could be easily be adjusted to be a dress

Wishes
* Wish I could wear the empire style as well as the models.

Pattern alterations/modifications
* Omitted the empire waist casing.
* Created threaded belt hoops and a tie belt
* Cut neckline elastic to size XS on the elastic guide
* Sewed the sleeves to the fronts and back before sewing the sleeve and side seams as instructed
* Sewed the sleeves together and continued with the side seams

Conclusion
This pattern is definitely a very easy top to sew and is a wonderful and gratifying diversion from more complex projects!

This is a top that could be made up easily in one evening. Just a change of sleeves, embellishments and fabric creates endless daytime and evening styles!

* As I was surfing the Simplicity website, I found Simplicity's basic boho top, 4177 which probably would have worked better for me!