You're on CBS!





Technical drawing of blouse:






First version:
"You Spin Me round, round, round like a record, baby!





Second version:
"You're on CBS!"




First version

Technical drawing of blouse

Anne Klein blouse with front tie and printed circles

Pattern Description
Tie front blouse with ruching in the center front by the tie and long sleeves

The "Duh" Burda Code
Hip, hip, hooray! I finally sewed my first official Burda WOF pattern! It was probably the easiest pattern from the September 2007 issue. I enjoyed reading the reviews and seeing the projects from the PRers who previously reviewed this pattern.

Although I sewed with Burda commercial patterns before, the Burda WOF patterns do not come with illustrations besides the technical drawings and layouts. The sparse directions can contribute to the "duh?" and then the "aha!" moments. I am at the start of my learning curve to master the Burda code!

Being E"spatial"y Patient
I was confused for the first time looking at the pattern layouts! Various types of lines (dotted, solid, alternating circles/dashes, etc) are overlapping each other all over the large sheet! The colored numbers at the top and bottom margins line up with the corresponding numbers that refer to the specific pattern pieces that are printed somewhere alongside them. This reminds me of an interesting form of mapreading without the gridlines!

I purchased three Burda Moden pattern magazines from the 60's and 70's and they are so much more convoluted (like colored pick up sticks strewn all over the place!!) than the current patterns! The vintage Burda magazine patterns layout have more pattern reference numbers on the margins, more color coded markings (beyond the dotted, solid, i.e. wavy) and so many patterns overlapping, enough to cause severe eyestrain!


Paper or Plastic?
For those desperately finding an alternative to tracing paper (I had some at one time at home). I finally figured out a use for those ever growing number of white plastic grocery/shopping bags (Vons, Ralphs, Target, etc) stashed in my kitchen somewhere. Yup, you guessed it, the cheap, but "green" alternative to tracing paper! Wow, I could easily see and trace the lines beneath a bag! I snipped the bags to have them lie flat, cutting across the creases and traced what I can with a black sharpie pen over the pattern outlines. Then if the tracing surpasses the piece of plastic, I tape on another piece, continuing where I left off. What's nice is that the plastic clings nicely to the fabric while cutting! I even used a huge K-B toystore bag to trace out a pattern piece for the front of a coat!

Sizing
Multi-sized 36-46. I sewed a 42, according to my measurements. Although I forgot to add the seam allowances, it blouse fits fine.

Fabric
Both versions are nice jersey knits from Gorgeous Fabrics. The "CBS network" looking fabric appears to be sold out.

Directions
They consisted of very brief and vague statements (i.e. Stitch shoulder seams...)I was perplexed by unclear directions on how to attach and finish the collar ties. A diagram would help immensely because I was not clear as to how Burda wanted the tie collar attached to the neck. Burda's verbage: "Stitch collar to the neck, leaving the tie bands free from tne marking. Fold collar lengthways, right side in, leaving the tie bands free from the marking. Stitch tie band edges together. Trim seam allowances, cut corners off. Turn and press ties. Press joining seam on the collar. Turn in inner collar edge and sew to the joining seam. " Questions that popped in my mind, "Tie bands, or the ends of the collar meant for tying or making a cute bow?....Sew to the joining seam?...." If Heather had her digital camera, she would have savored the opportunity to capture my "duh, what in the world?" expression! I had to ponder carefully what I was going to do next.

My interpretation:
After sewing the collar to the neckline while making sure that the collar tie's center seam aligned with the center back of the top, I folded each of the tie ends, right sides together and stitched the seam from the front center of the blouse (where the neckline ruching starts) to the ends of the ties and turned the ties inside out. Then I folded the collar inward, with the raw edge tucked underneath, and stitched close to the edge so that on the outside the stitching would appear very close to the seamline where the collar and neckline meet. I wonder if there is an existence of the phrase "instinctual sewing."

Likes, dislikes
*I like the style with the tie front, a modern day interpretation of secretarial blouse.
*Easy to construct
*Pattern consists of only four pattern pieces: front, back, sleeve, and tie collar!
*I forgot to add the side seam allowances and to lengthen the sleeves by 1" for my arms! But I was glad that I omitted the side seam allowances because the blouse is still somewhat roomy.
*The neckline came lower than expected. Fortunately I could bring the neckline up a little by pulling and tightening the ties. If I make this again, I'll raise the neckline another 1/2".

Modifications
* I sewed the sleeves in flat. Why set in sleeves for knits?
* It seems as if there was a lot ease in the top of the sleeves. I trimmed 3/4" from the top edge, tapering to the sides.
* I added 1 1/2" to the length of the sleeves for the second version after forgetting to do it to the first version.


Conclusion
The gathering in the front is a nice feature of this blouse and overall this blouse would flatter all figure types! So far, I have been impressed with Burda commercial patterns due to that distinctive and flattering fit that I could not acquire from the Big 4 and it seems like Burda WOF would be no exception. If you can get ahold of this September 2007 issue (lots of great stuff!), I definitely recommend making this blouse as a first Burda WOF project or as a very versatile and trendy top!

The O's Have It!

Help! I am a bonafide sewing addict! I just could not stop making more projects during this past Presidents' holiday weekend. I believe I sewed more than what I sewed during my 3-week winter vacation last year! I felt the need to satisfy the urge to use the new fabrics I purchased from GF and EOS a month ago! I am surprised that I still had quality time to be with my family, watch TV, make and eat dinner...

Although I have been staying away from Joann's and other local fabric stores for nearly two months now (quite a feat for me)....online stores (GF, EOS, Lucy's) have not helped me curb my fabric purchases! Help! But at least I am motivated to sew with better quality fabric and get more projects done!

Help! I am a bonafide sewing addict! I just could not stop making more projects during this past Presidents' holiday weekend. I believe I sewed more than I did during my 3-week winter vacation last year! I felt the need to satisfy the urge to use the new fabrics that I purchased from GF and EOS a month ago! I am surprised that I still had quality time to be with my family, watch TV, make and eat dinner...




















Finished projects:

* 2 Jalie 2449 crossover tops (mommy/daughter versions)
I used about 1 3/4 yds of onionsilk type fabric purchased (2 yds) from Emma One Sock for about $16/yd.


* 1 Burda 7891 ruffled blouse (had already been cut out, but does not qualify yet to be a UFO). I used about 2 yds of poly/charmeuse from Walmart for $1/yd

* 3 Jalie Sweetheart tops (made my second and third this weekend)
I used leftover knit fabric from previous projects: about 1 1/4 yard altogether.


* 1 Burda WOF bow blouse (#101 from Septemter 2007 issue)
I used about 3/4 yd fabric purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics for $8/yd,

* 1 New Look 6697 faux wrap dress
I used about 2 1/4 yds of fabric (same one used for the blouse above). Yeah, I used all of the 3 yds of this fabric!


So this weekend, I made a total of seven new garments! I guess I'll have to wait for the next time off to sew, spring break?

Total yards: 8 yards
Approximate total cost of fabric (new, not leftovers): $58
Approximate total cost of patterns used (purchased from PR, Burda WOF from ebay, New Look from Wal Mart): $40.27+$21.50+$4=$65.77
Approximate total cost of my addiction this week:
$ 123.77 :wow:

Just for fun: approximate cost of on-line garments returned to Macy's and Kohl's just recently: $150 I returned nearly everything (too bad that many blouses/tops were under $8!) How could my current size of a Misses' medium/large fit like a size jr 5/6 that I was able to wear 20 years ago? I will not buy online again! :eek: Too many inconsistencies in sizing.


Also completed a week ago:
* two Jalie v-neck tops (mommy/daughter versions) I used about 2 yds of onionsilk type fabric purchased from Emma One Sock for about $16/yd.


I completed New Look 6697 (mock wrap dress with front overlay and elasticized waist)last night and Jalie 2449 (Cross over top)today. Imagine I was able to make Heather and myself matching tops in graphic circles onionsilk with the turquoise/brown/white color scheme (sold out)!


Fabric for Hew Look 6697 dress from GF
Named "Lucy in the...jersey reds/multi" a poly/lycra jersey. I remember seeing tops from INC Concepts in this material at Macy's.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pattern Review for Jalie 2449




Finally, I decided to purchase this pattern (along with my previously reviewed v-neck top and increasingly popular "sweetheart" top) and hop on the board the "Crossing Jalie" express already ridden by 53 PRers!








Pattern Description
"Easy to make stretch top with crossover neckline and choice of short or 3/4 sleeves." The word in French for crossover top or something similar is "cache-coeur." Hidden heart, cross your heart were my first interpretations!

Size
Multi-size pattern consisting of 22 sizes from a toddler's size to misses' US size 22. My first version was Heather's top (size "J", age 6).




From previous reviews, the top might be a little snug fitting if you went by your exact measurements. I sewed for myself a "W" instead of a "V" for my second version.

Fabric
From EmmaOneSock, "A fabric similar to onionskin, which I am calling "onionsilk" because of its more buttery, soft hand. Very drapey, with the papyrus-like texture of onionskin, very smooth, a little sheer, very lightweight, stretch in the width, stable in the length." This fabric was so easy to work with!

Likes/dislikes
*Definitely a very comfortable and flattering cross-over top!
*Very easy to make and not time consuming
*The neckband feature was easy to attach and there is little or no need to adjust for gaposis. It could be shortened a little depending on the stretch of the fabric.
*I encountered some gaping or a little extra ease at the back neckline. Fellow PRer DrSue encountered the same. I could take in the back a little more.
*I did not like the method to finish the back neckline which was just folded over and stitched (possibly contributing to the extra ease). The front bands could be extended to finish the back neckline.


Modifications
* I raised the neckline 1/2"
* I added about 1/2" to the width of the neckband. From my experience with my first version (Heather's top), the neckband seemed to be less wide than I conceived from the front of the pattern envelope.
* I took in each hip side seams by about 1/4" due to the nature of the fabric.
* I lengthened the short (paradox?) sleeves.
* I lettuced edged the sleeves for a change of scenery.

Directions
Brief with helpful illustrations unlike Burda WOF. Immediately after cutting, the neckbands are folded lengthwise and sewn along both front sections, right sides together. One of the illustrations shows the wearer's front right portion of the top overlapping the left. However, the subsequent diagram showing the back and front being sewn at the shoulders somewhat puzzled me. From the wrong side, the diagram showed the wearer's front left section beneath the front right section which I think should be the other way around since the right section crosses over the left section on the outside. Maybe I reading too much into this!

Despite the inside of my top not matching up with the diagram, I proceeded to sew the shoulder seams, being careful not to stretch the fabric as directed. There was an excess of about 1 cm from the neckband that I folder over the front shoulder. I did this in Heather's version and it looked somewhat peculiar. In my second version, I tucked it beneath the back neckline's "free edge" inward and stitched, overlapping the little folded piece neckband at the shoulder and it looked more polished.

The rest of the top was easy to figure out - sewing the sleeves in flat and sewing the sides seams, being careful to "catch" the seams where the right and left fronts were joined.

Conclusion
I wish I had purchased this pattern earlier! This is definitely a super wardrobe builder! I highly recommend this pattern because you could easily alter it to create endless styling possibilities (the Project Runway concept comes to mind) in addition to being very flattering for all figure types and such a breeze to make. It helps to make a muslin or test version to work with sizing and fitting issues. I could see why this top is reviewed so many times and can easily become a TNT pattern for anybody, even a former skeptic (now a Jalie 2449 convert!) as myself!

Ruffle-Y Speaking

I like the look of this very feminine, yet very alluring top!
(Saksy's Just Cavalli Ruffled Blouse for $625!)







Likes/Dislikes
* I liked the overall style and fit!
* The ruffles draped the neckline nicely. Since they did not flare out, they would not overwhelm those with petite frames.

*Ruffle took longer than expected. It would have been easier to make a "rolled" hem.
*Need to wear a modesty camisole because the neckline came lower than expected.
*I encountered a little problem aligning the front facing with the bottom edge of the ruffle. Even though I snipped the corner prior to folding the facing inward, I had to do some pressing so that the ruffle's bottom corner remains intact.
*The construction is straightforward but is time-consuming, especially making it for the first time.

Modifications
*Decreased the width of the front and back darts

*Changed the orientation of how the sleeve cuff was attached to the edge. I am accustomed to placing and stitching the cuff on the outside (right side of the sleeve). Then I folded the cuff lengthwise right sides together, stitched at the edge and turned the cuff to the outside.

Conclusion
I would definitely make this blouse again by raising the neckline, slightly lowering the armscye and adjusting the sleeve heads accordingly (for a little more freedom in arm movement.

I like Burda overall for providing patterns that yield cutting edge but still classy styles and that indescribable distinctively flattering fit. I highly recommend this blouse if you are familiar with basic shirt construction and if you like to wear a top that combines the look of a classic shirt with a touch of feminine and frilly flair!

Jolie, Jolly, et Jalie!


I like the flattering style of this INC V-neck top:


Here's a nice substitute, Jalie 2682!





I am #17 (pattern reviewer) hopping aboard the Jalie bandwagon
Here are the events leading to making this top (the pattern pieces had been traced several days ago):
(1) I received two boxes of goodies (on-line purchases) from Macys.com, one day after the other. The prices were great! For instance you cannot go wrong with an $80 top selling for $12.99! But I did...
(2) I tried on all the goodies and was disappointed that only four (better than none at least!) of the fourteen items the fit nicely! Some items looked better on the online pics than in reality; one blouse was too large and others definitely would fit my sister with the supermodel figure. For instance, a cute misses' size 12 shirt fit like a 5/6 in juniors! Maybe that's why it was so cheap! I immediately returned the items to my neigborhood Macy's.
(3) I should have learned this lesson from previous on-line purchases to "Try before I buy" or
(4) Sew my own clothes

Pattern Description
"Stylish V-neck top, raised neckline at back, with or without sleeves. View A has a zipper at front neckline for more coverage. I sewed the non-zippered V-neck front, view B.

Size
Multi-sized, 27 sizes, from child to adult! I thought I would not use a pattern sized for children and adults. I made my daughter a dress version of the child's v-neck top two weeks ago. For mommy's version, I sewed a "Y" equivalent to US size "12". With the fabric I was using I could have sewn a "W".

Likes/dislikes
* I liked the overall style and fit of this top!
* The top is very easy to sew. My second version took only 2 hours to sew (sans tracing and cutting time)
* I like the polished look of the v-neckline. I did not have to fiddle with the neckline to prevent gaposis as in other tops!
* I sewed the sleeves in flat, with no problem.
* I savored the opportunity to read French and increase my French couture vocabulary. Sewing now looks and sounds so romantic. Oui, oui, oui!
* I liked the convenience of 27 sizes in one pattern!
* I got over my initial dislikes of the pattern (tracing the pattern, vague directions) once I sewed it once and knew what to expect.

Directions
Whoa! When I sewed this for the first time (Heather's version), I was quick to jump into the first step of sewing the front bodice pieces together (self-facing and visible portion) at the center line, up to the marked circle. Then I kept referring to the illustration after turning the front bodice, so that the line of stitching became the center seam of the v-neck and the top seam of the two pieces became the neck's back center seam.

Wait....Something seemed very wrong! I had to remove the stitches because I was sewing on "right" side of the fabric instead of the "wrong" side! Then I discovered that Jalie referred to the shaded side of the fabric as the "wrong" side whereas in other familiar-maker patterns the shaded is the "right" side of the fabric. Oops! Once I got beyond that first hurdle, things started coming together, so to speak!

Overall the directions were brief and to the point (i.e. sew back to bodice back....huh?). The illustrations helped, even though there might be a discontinuity from one step to another due to steps that were common to view A and B.

Fabric used
Nice knit with groovy "Erte-esque" looking print, dotted with small sequins, from Gorgeous Fabrics. Heather's dress has the same fabric.

Modifications
* Eliminated the back center seam for a continuous flow of the print and design of the fabric.
* Shortened the length by 1". The top is still a little long, but I prefer wearing my tops that way.
* Shortened the sleeves to give the top another dimension.

Conclusion
I would rate my first experience with Jalie not so bad after all! It was a matter of getting acclimated to the experience of tracing the patterns and deciphering the instructions. Hmmmm...maybe this will prepare me for the journey to Burda WOF (waiting for 6 weeks to receive my first official issue!)

I plan to use this pattern again and again! It's now one of my favorites! I purchased two other Jalie patterns and also am looking forward to using them!

I definitely recommend this pattern if you want something tres chic that sews quickly and easily after being familiar with Jalie instructions.

Flower Puff

I revisited Burda 7942 as my "tried and true" shirt pattern:



Lepore's Harry's Bar Jacket from SFA for $430 from last year. The sleeves are still "in" now!


I replaced the cuffs with lantern or tulip sleeves which are so "in" right now!




Fabric Used
Lightweight corduroy with floral print

Modifications
* Shortened the upper part of the sleeve to the cutting line for the short sleeve version.
* Replaced the cuffs (used in my first version) with lantern or tulip sleeves which I drafted. My original draft seemed too long and overpowering that I folded each in half, gathered the bottom and slipstitched it to the inside seam.
* I took in the top center back seam (just below the neck) another 1/2" to eliminate the bagginess.

Conclusion
This is definitely one of my all-time favorite shirt patterns! This version took a little longer due to adjusting the center back and fussing with the sleeves so that it balances well with the rest of the shirt. I enjoyed trying to do something different for the third time around.



Very feminine and chic!


(Saksy's Just Cavalli Ruflled Blouse for $625!)

Here's Burda 7891. I just received this (finally) from PR


I cannot wait to sew this one!

Chained, Tied and Checkered

Some blouses with neck ties:
Lepore's Classical Charmeuse at Nordy's for $325:



French Connection's 'Celebrate' Tie blouse from Nordy's for $118



DKNY Jeans' Printed Chiffon Blouse with Tie


Style and Co's charmeuse from Macy's for originally $49

and those ruffled sleeves
O Oscar's silk pleated ruffle top for originally $109!

Combine some of those elements to get:
HP's 1002 Metro Tie Me Down Blouse!






Finally, my two hot patterns arrived just short of two weeks (11 days after I placed my order)! I worked on it shortly after receiving it in the mail! It was worth the wait!

Pattern Description:
Blouses with front tie, shirred shoulders, shirred center back and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: Multi-sized. I used a "14"

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, but in a boldly printed fabric! I thought I would take one more pic by Heather's pink holiday tree before we put it away.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes and the accompanying illustrations were helpful. A first time sewist might need an additional illustration to see how to place the tie on the neckline. Overall, I like the new user-friendly format!

What did you particularly notice about the pattern?
* I liked the overall style with the ruched shoulders which give the blouse a nice drape and the gathered bell sleeves.

* The blouse was very easy to construct (no buttonholes!) and took me only a few hours!

* The blouse consisted of the front, back, tie, sleeve and the front and back facing pieces. I started getting somewhat cross eyed from looking at the grooves on the pattern pieces as I was cutting each to a size "14"!

* As mentioned by previous reviewers, the notches are so lightly printed that I also overlooked them as I was cutting the fabric!

* I found the top to be somewhat loose fitting than what was described and pictured on the envelope. This could be attibuted to the drape of the fabric I was using.

Fabric Used:
Chain link printed knit from GF

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Since I do not have elastic thread available for the shirring at the shoulders and the center back, I stretched sewed 1/4" elastic on the wrong side of the fabric. I skipped the third row of ruching at each shoulder to not further add more bulk.

Instead of starting 2" from the sleeve hem with the first row of ruching, I gathered one instead of three rows 6" from the sleeve hem due to personal preference.

I discovered that the entire neckline facing (v-neck facing attached to the back facing) was a bit large as I was pinning it to the neckline. To adjust the neckline facing, I cut out an excess of a little over an inch from the combined shoulder seams and restitched the seams.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I plan to make another one or two in another month or so, but using elastic thread. I might go down a size and/or include front darts for more shaping, I definitely recommend it and agree with the rating "Advanced Beginner" specified on the envelope.

Conclusion
I like this blouse's distinctive details: the gathered/shirred shoulders and sleeves and the tie below the neck and that can be worn over a skirt, pants, or jeans.

This is the second HP pattern that I worked with and have discovered that HP patterns seem to run a lilittle larger. Either that or the outfit was not drafted as it appears on the pattern envelope. Anyway, after making the first version, you could easily customize to fit.






******************************************************************************
I think I finished this just before the New Year!






This is absolutely a very easy dress to sew! I made this after my "Cars" gathered front knit top.

Features:
* One size, 14
* Slight aline style
* Bust darts
* Front center seam
* Omitted the zipper and replaced with a back seam due to the knit.
* Long vertical darts at the back.
* Facings for the neckline (front, back) and armholes
* Hand sewed the hem.
* Retro chic, but so "in" right now!

Another nice top that I would like to copy!
BCBG Silk Charmeuse from Macys' originally $178
Built by Wendy Bodice + Simplicity's Very easy kimono sleeves ?

What's Your Pleather or Paisley?

Juicy Couture's red pleather jacket from Saksy's for $328!!! What in the world?!




Vogue 2958



I made two versions of this freebie pattern.

The first was from "pleather" (total cost under $10!). As I can see from the puckers, I had difficulty working with this fabric.


The second from a lightweight corduroy. It actually looks better up close and personal.


Rating: Average

I got this as my freebie pattern from Vogue Patterns. I was lured by the stylish jacket!

Pattern Description:
Misses'/Misses' Petite Jacket, Bustier, Dress, Skirt and Pants. I made Jacket A which "is fitted, lined to edge with shaped front and back princess seams, collar, back has darts with slit, full length sleeves with elbow darts and shoulder pads."

Pattern Sizing:
10-12-14. I made the "14"


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? In my opinion, the collar only!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. They were easy to follow and sufficient enough for an advanced beginner. The jacket overall was straightforward to construct, but time-consuming.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the overall style of the jacket (especially the unusual collar!) but it ended up being too form fitted for my taste, emphasizing my hips and my tush! The neckline came lower than what I expected and which could be remedied by wearing a camisole. The jacket consists of only six pieces, but I had to take into account cutting front facings made from the same fabric and the lining pieces (for the back, the side front, side back, and the sleeves).

Oh no! This jacket requires so much fusible interfacing. The first step was to interface the front, back, side front, side back and the collar. That's quite extensive because I usually interface only the collar and front facings. It would make sense to do, especially if I were working with fabric that frays easily. With the fabric I was using, I did not think it was necessary to interface the back and the sides. But I did so, anyway.


The side fronts and side backs did not ease well into the "L"-shaped curve of the front and backs of the jacket! It seemed as if the side front and back pieces belonged to another jacket! I had difficulty matching up the notches and pinning the seams together! I ease-stitched the side fronts and side backs (similar to ease-stitching sleeve heads).

The width of the shoulder section of the front came about 1/2" wider than the back shoulder (after the dart). I was wondering if the back darts were not taken into consideration when Vogue drafted the front. I ease-stitched the front shoulders. I adjusted the front shoulder seam to fit the back shoulder seam as I pinned the seams together.

Fabric Used:
Printed lightweight corduroy.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Shortened the sleeves by 1 3/4" By looking at the pattern envelope, the sleeves were a little past the model's wrist. The instructions were not clear on how to finish the hems of the sleeves after turning them up 2" (5 cm). I stitched a 1/4" baby hem from the raw edge, folded a 2" as instructed from the inside of the sleeve witht the baby hem tucked under, and slipstitched or hand sewed the new hem in place.

I drafted and sewed my own semi-circular shaped shoulder pads using the same fabric filled with some fleece remnants. I cut 4 pieces, two for each shoulder pad. I sewed two pieces, rights together at the curved edges, leaving the straight side to turn the pad pocket inside out. Then I filled the pad pocket with the fleece remnants. Then I sealed the filled pocket by sewing the edge with the raw edges tucked in and voila, an instant home-made shoulder pad!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'll give this pattern a rest for now I spent two full evenings working on the jacket. If I have a lot of time, I would sew this jacket again after redrafting the pieces. I would recommend it if you want to give yourself a challenge and you might have better luck than I did! I discovered after making the jacket according to my usual size, that it is more fitted than what is represented on the envelope! It seems like the size "14" fits like a "10" (a 10 petite?) in pattern sizing!

Conclusion
This is probably the first time that I have sewn an "Average" rated Vogue. I was disappointed in the outcome, but I might know a good friend who might like this and fit into this! So my efforts are not in vain! Now I am ready to sew a DKNY jacket (I already have the pattern pieces cut!)

Lighting McSheen






It's amazing how together light and angle can affect the appearance of a subject! Despite wearing a black knit shirt underneath, this top now looks a bit risque and naughty for my taste and possibly looks like something a good mommy and a woman past her 30's wear should not wear. I guess I am becoming conservative as time goes on. Now I know I how fabric and style can appear differently in front of a camera under various lighting and taken from certain angles!

Pattern Description:
Knit tops with gathered front and sleeve variations.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-16


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except for the fabric and fit.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, assuming that you are familiar with methods such as gathering and stabilizing shoulder seams. They were brief and easy to follow.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the pattern because it is very easy to sew (top of front bodice, bottom of front bodice, back of bodice, and sleeve pieces) and has a timeless style. The neckline came down to an appropriate depth for me. The only thing I did not like was the given method to finish the neckline.


Fabric
Checkered printed spandex-type knit for my first version. I would achieve a different fit with a drapier knit.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

*Sizing
I sewed a "10" at the shoulders, sleeveheads, and armholes, tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips. A "12" would have been for me at the shoulders.

*Finishing the neckline
According to the instructions, a band of the same fabric was sewn at the raw edge and turned inward to make a narrow seam. Instead, I used a piece of 1/4" elastic at the neckline for my sister's top (first version) which kept the neckline intact. For my top, I used 3 strips (3/4" wide) of mesh cut on the bias: one for the left front, the second for the right front, and the third for the back of the neckline. I cut each mesh strip about 1 1/4" shorter than the length of each section of the neckline. Then I slightly stretched, pinned and sewed each mesh strip 1/4" from the raw edge (visible or right side of fabric) and folded inward to sew a narrow seam.

*V-Shaped neckline
This is something I first did to my sister's top (the true first version of this top, in a smaller size)to further stabilize the neckline at the "v" point and to reduce the bunching made by the elastic. In desperation to save my sister's top, I snipped about 1 1/2" past the "v" point and join the edges together to make a little vertical seam at the center of the bust. Wow! The top looked much better! Then I noticed that one of my RTW knit tops had the same detail, except that the vertical seam was much smaller, about 3/8" !

So for my top, I snipped about 1/2" past the "v" point. I saw a little sweetheart neckline formed as a result of this, but that was fine with me.

*Sleeves
I sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of setting them in as instructed. Then I sewed the sleeve seams tapering off to the side seams of the top.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, but in a drapier knit, for a more modest and palatable look. If I wear my current top in public, I would wear it underneath a blazer.

I definitely recommend this pattern not only because it is quick and easy to sew but it is very versatile! Making a muslin would help to figure out if the neckline is at the preferred depth. You could get an entire set of unique looking tops by changing the fabric, style of sleeves, and adding decorative trim!

Conclusion
This is a definitely a very easy pattern and sews up quickly! I like the "arched" empire waist which makes the top more interesting!

Criss Cross Applesauce

I purchased this pattern because of the attractive red criss cross top!





Pattern Description:
New Look did not provide one. The pattern consisted of 5 versions of a knit mock wrap top with long or short sleeves, wrap tie options, and a criss-cross front I sewed version "A", the long sleeved top with the criss cross front and wrap tie.

** Note: There are actually 6 pattern pieces, not 7 as printed on the back of the envelope.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' multi-size 6-16. I sewed a "14".


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for my fabric choice.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes! Sharon M describes and shows the process of the criss cross of the upper bodice very well!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that version "A" consisted of 4 pattern pieces (upper front bodice with front sleeve, lower front bodice, back with back of sleeve and the tie.

I could have gotten away with the center back seam and instead opt for cutting the back as one entire piece.

The criss-cross sections of the bodice took less time to construct than the wrap-around ties! They were one-sided and required hemming at the edges (a serger would be very handy and save so much time!). It would have been easy to cut the ties wider so that they could be folded in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitched along the side and one tie end and turned inside out at the other end!

I was happy that the neckline did not come low and gape as expected.


Fabric Used:
A mystery type of thin knit that is slightly sheer, somewhat slippery and tricky to handle, but hugs figure contours well and also gives a slenderizing effect!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
For my first version, I did not make any alterations. If I make any version of the top again, I would slightly lower the seam under the bustline while raising the neckline, maybe 3/8".

In making the narrow hems for the neckline and bottom edge, I sewed 1/4" from the raw edge, folded a narrow hem, tucking underneath the 1/4" allowance. I found that this method probably coupled with the type of fabric kept the neckline intact.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! This top would be ideal for sergers! If you enjoy sewing twist and wrap tops, then I highly recommend this pattern!

Conclusion
These tops are easy to construct and flatters all figures! After sewing this once, the next ones will be a breeze to whip up!