Sunday, July 26, 2009

Mint-Some and Clovers

After some disappoinment with Kwik Sew 3295
due to some gaping in the v-neck and surprisingly narrow shoulders, I decided to return to my nearly TNT pattern, Kwik Sew 3062 I recall liking the rounded and topstitched neckline, lower empire waist, the lower front cut on the bias, and the distinctive puffed sleeves.



Third version in cotton from EmmaOneSock.com.

First version made last fall

Third version, photographed by my 6-year old. My personal photographer received a Simplicity 2944 "Cheetah Girl" knit tunic as commission.


Size
XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed sewed a medium.

The changes I made were:
*100% cotton fabric from EmmaOneSock.com
* making a 3/4" petite adjustment at the marked line and adding the same amount to the bottom. The top tends to run short in length in my opinion, even though I am short-waisted.
* sewing French seams at the sides and shoulders.


Things I noticed in my third version:
* This and some other KS patterns seem to run one or even two sizes smaller than what I normally use in the Big 4 patterns.
* Although I am a "B" cup, I found the size medium's upper bodice roomy.
* I discovered that there is some looseness in the upper back (as in the Kwik Sew 3295 woven top that I just sewed), making it ideal for those with broader backs. I pinched temporary back shoulder darts which seemed to eliminate or reduce the problem.
* Maybe losing 4 lbs this month has something to do with above (so far I am having better success with my "back to the 80's" workout routine)

I'm not going to give up on Kwik Sew 3295...

************************************************

Original Review, Oct. 22, 2008
Kwik Sew 3062 has been on my wish list for some time. What prompted me to purchase this recently was the fact that it will be discontinued at PR (discontinued according to the Kwik Sew website).

Pattern Description
"Misses' pullover tops have sccop neckline finished with bias cut binding, gathers under bust and lower front is cut on bias. View A has slit on bodice at center front seam, and gathered sleeves have shirring with elastic. View B has short gathered sleees with elastic in casing in bottom edges. Pull-on bias cut skirt has elastic in casing at waist, and two ruffles at bottom edge." I sewed View B.

Size
Misses' XS -XL. I referred to my bust size and sewed a "M". I find that Kwik Sews have been generous in their sizing. I even find the "M" a tad roomy overall!


Fabric
What seems like a medium weight, mixed woven, "The Road to Sao Paolo", from Gorgeous Fabrics. It seems to be already sold out.


Favorite Features
*Very easy to construct

*Few pattern pieces involved: upper bodice, bias front skirt, bias neckline, sleeve, and back.

*I was hesitant to purchase this due to the empire chest which has in the past made me look as if I am expecting. Hopefully the bias front skirt below the bust coupled with the lower empire styling minimizes that.

*Puffed sleeves

*Scoop neck

*Bias finish at the neckline

*5/8" seam allowances included


Other Features
*Neckline scoop came lower than represented by the illustration on the envelope.
*Needs to be adjusted for sway back.
*The sleeves puffed out more (gathered quite a bit at the sleeve caps) than those featured on the envelope.
*Length of top appears shorter than expected


Directions
Clear and easy to read with very helpful illustration as what I typically expect from a Kwik Sew.

The finishing of the neckline is interesting in that the method described drifted from methods with which I am familiar. Instead of pinning the bias strip (sewn at the ends, forming a loop), right sides of fabric together along the neckline, I pinned it from the inside of the top or right side of the bias loop to the wrong side of the fabric along the neckline, ensuring that the notches align with the shoulder seams. I sewed the recommended 1/4" from the raw edges (could have sewn a little more to reduce the width of the binding) and turned the strip to the outside and press. Then I topstitched the binding, close to the encased edge.

Modifications
*To lower the empire seam, I extended the upper bodice by adding 1/4" along the lower edge and the bias skirt by adding 1/4" along its upper edge.

Conclusion
I highly recommend this pattern if you want to create something that does not require a lot of time and that is easy to sew with minimal adjustments. The Kwik Sew website states that this pattern is already discontinued and will soon be on PR! I wish I had purchased this pattern sooner! I plan to make a few more tops with sleeve variations.

Giraffic Park

Last fall/winter, I made Heather a "Cheetah Girls" tunic from this Simplicity pattern:



She's very happy about the style!


Twin-kie fun!

I just finished the second version this afternoon and Heather wore it to her grandparents' house.

Pattern Description
"Girls' jacket or vest, knit dress in two lengths and tunic. I sewed view "C" (with semi-detached gathered sleeves) in the tunic version

Size
Girls' 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. I made an estimated size smaller than an "8".

Fabric
Poly knit jersey (left over from our matching tops made last year) purchased over a year ago from Gorgeousfabrics.com.


Favorite features
*Trendy sleeve style
*Thick shoulder straps (also knows as the upper front yoke)
*Gathered center front in upper bodice
*Easy to construct.
*Comfortable

Not-so-favorite features
* Why does this pattern (and many others) draft patterns for girls assuming they are built like little football players?

* Maybe not so much in the first version, but in the second version, I noticed during my daughter's first fitting, the neckline was unacceptably low and just drooped. Since I made the first version 8 months ago, I do not remember clearly what modifications I made, if any.


Directions
They were fine and the illustrations helped further clarify certain steps such as placement of semi-detached sleeve onto the armscye by placing on the marked dots.


Modifications
*Instead of using loose, long machine stitches to gather the center of the upper bodice, I used a 1/4" wide piece of elastic, stretching while I sewed.

*I noticed even after the straps were taken in further, the upper front edge still drooped. After looking at the pieces to see what I can do, I moved (more like scooted over) what seemed like extra fabric in the upper edge of the upper bodice towards the strap so that it would further overlap the strap, thus becoming part of the larger seam allowance between the front strap and the upper bodice.

*Three baste and fit moments (someone almost became irate and impatient) resulted in an additional 2" in the seam between the front strap and the upper bodice.


Conclusion
Despite my challenges with raising the neckline of the upper bodice, I was able to complete my daughter's tunic within 3 1/2 hours (includes pinning the pattern and cutting the fabric). If I sew with this pattern again, I would sew the dress/tunic with the fully attached sleeves. If you have this pattern for a young lady you know, check for the fit of the front straps and bodice and adjust accordingly. Other than that fitting issue, it's simple to sew, and even better with a serger!

Monday, July 20, 2009

My Mini Hem-Fix Experience...

This is officially my first Burda WOF skirt. Also amongst my 158 (3 were inadvertently triplicated from an original) reviews, this is really my first review of a skirt.


I have not regularly worn short skirts or shorts in public since the mid 90's. This picture is from 1994.

Pattern Description
My description: Retro-looking aline skirt with faced waistline, button-down front and pockets.

I didn't know Burda signed up Jennifer Lopez to model.




Burda's description:
"Everything is true-to-style here: the nostalgic jacquard pattern, the romantic pale turquoise colour, the feminine a-line shape, small patch pockets as well as self-fabric covered buttons".


Size
Burda misses' 34-44. I sewed a "40" and it is really fitted at the waist and hips, and fortunately my fabric had enough stretch. Already I feel that below the waist, this particular a-line silhouette was somewhat overwhelming for my frame.

Fabric
Stretch cotton twill from EmmaOneSock.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Somewhat due to my fabric and buttons choice and not having a 22" waistline. My picture did not capture the actual a-line quality of my skirt. My fabric choice and buttons made my skirt more offbeat and whimsical. In the Burda magazine photo, there's a baby next to the model, seated on the floor. How RARELY realistic to have a mom wearing a skirt like this shortly after having a baby. When my daughter was that baby's age I could only wear (and continue to wear) pants with elastic waistbands.


Favorite Features
* Retro styling
* Easy to construct
* Well drafted. The pattern pieces aligned nicely, especially where the upper facing, waist edge and darts are concerned.


Not-so-favorite Features
*Between the first and second button, there was a ripple caused by my lower belly. After looking again at Burda's version, the thin model experienced this issue, but, of course much less pronounced. Christy S also provided a sleek and clever solution in her review of her inspiring and adorable skirt.

*Certain steps in the directions were not clear.


Directions
* Directions were adequate, especially if you are familiar with sewing pants with upper facings and shirts with front facings.

View from the inside.

* BEFORE folding to create the front self-facing and attaching the upper facing to finish the waist section, Burda does not mention to finish the edges of the front self-facings and the lower (unattached) edge of the upper facing prior to Bias binding leaves a flawless finish. Since I did not want to spend more time on supposedly a very easy garment, I simply folded and iron-pressed the raw edges under 1/4" and topstitched in place.

"Lay, lay, lay what you want, but don't play games with the directions..."
* The tricky part is step, "Lay self-facings on front edges outward and pin to upper edge." I had to "lay" on this one for just a moment. Then I got it. Just rewording that step to "turn outwards the front self-facing along the first fold line and pin self facing at upper edge" would have been more clear to me. Then the upper facing (consisting of each front facing attached to the back facing with a center back seam) is sewn to the upper edge of the skirt, right sides together, paying attention to sewing the ends of the front facing onto the upper part of the self-facing (turn outwards).

Then I read "Lay upper facing upward and stitch to seam allowance, close to seam...." Huh? I thought it was mentioned to sew the upper facing onto the upper edge of the skirt. I had to think about this a little longer. Burda could have simply wrote, "Understitch the upper facing to prevent it from flapping out."

*If I sewed with heavier material such as denim, I would have not cut each pocket on a fold (pocket piece would be folded in half and stitched right sides together, leaving a gap large enough to turn inside out), but instead as a single piece to avoid the extra bulk when I sew them onto the skirt fronts at the placement lines. I topstitched the pocket onto the skirt approximately 1/8" from the edge instead of hand-stitching as directed.


Modifications
*Shortened skirt by 2" to raise the skirt just above knee level.

*Cut pockets on the bias to slightly interrupt the busy print on the front of the skirt.

*Used four instead of five buttons. I wanted to preserve freedom of movement such as walking comfortably in normal strides, and being able to sit down I wish I had reduced the spacing buttons a tad to be able to sew a fifth button since I shortened the length.


Conclusion
I am not sure as to whether I would sew it again. Although I like the style, I don't think it is a style that flatters my proportions (short torso, long legs, rounded tummy). If I did sew it again, I would sew it in a nectarine color and use either big white or black buttons for a dramatic effect.

Despite the directions, I still would recommend this pattern as a first time Burda WOF-er, especially for those like myself who have not made (let alone worn) skirts for some time.

After making this skirt, I have more incentive to wear skirts, and thus make more...

BTW: I still have those Levi's shorts... in a box somewhere.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Made in Sweden

Desperate Housewife, Bree Hodge?



I saw this in Boston Proper and immediately thought that this reminded me of Burda 7647 sans the front band.



Pattern Description and Some Background...
This top or dress has a gathered or twisted bust section and matching shoulder straps. Both versions are chic and uncomplicated, so they are ideal for packing in a suitcase.
Recommended fabric:
Jersey




Yes, I agree that my top was ideal for packing in a suitcase, because of the seemingly easy care knit that I used. However, this top did not get packed in my suitcase for our trip to Sweden to visit my in-laws. It got packed on our way home to Southern California. How did that happen?

Standing near my in-laws' guest house. My in-laws so kindly gave up their own room to accommodate the three of us (there's only one bathroom and it's inside the main house). They ended up sleeping in the guest house.


So when youre near me, darling can't you hear me
S. O. S.
The love you gave me, nothing else can save me
S. O. S.


I purchased this pattern at a little shop in Oskarshamn, Sweden (popl 17,143). We stayed with my husband's parents in Hogsby (popl 1,965) for nearly 3 weeks after visting Stockholm for four days. Somewhere in between sight-seeing, eating great food, and visiting and being visited by my husband's relatives, I was going through some rare form of S.O.S. (Sewing Over Seas or Sewing Obsession Syndrome). My mother-in-law was very kind to let me use her 20-year-old Pfaff (Uh oh... that is enough to trigger my condition). My husband told me it had been collecting dust for some time now.

There was no local shop in Hogsby that we knew of that carried sewing supplies and my father-in-law drove (approximately 40 minutes) us to Oskarshamn. We took a mini-tour of this cute and quaint coastal town and visited the town's al fresco shopping mall. The textile shop that we entered carried only home deco fabric. Across from this shop, I spotted a little shop that specialized in selling Husqvarna sewing machines. When we entered this shop, bingo! It also contained a limited selection of fabric and sewing notions. The shop seemed no larger than my living room. Fortunately my husband was able to speak Swedish to the friendly saleslady who spoke very limited English. The only patterns she carried were Burda and Butterick. This is not a Jo-Ann's so I was not expecting any pattern sales. I perused the Burda catalog and Heather the Burda for Kids catalog. I liked the look of Burda 7647 due to the sweetheart neckline and that it was geared for knits. Heather selected a pattern that carried a knit top with a gathered front finished with a bow and a pair of shorts. My husband told the saleslady the pattern numbers that Heather and I liked. We also included the fabric, a pack of sewing needles, ribbon trims, and Pfaff bobbins, thread (Guterman). Altogether, my husband paid $899.50 kronor, roughly $120 U.S.D. No special discounts for foreigners. I remember watching on Nightline a few evenings ago about being charged hidden extra fees from ATM use to hotel accommodations. You could even be charged more if you are not a local resident while shopping.

Size
Misses' 34-44. I sewed a 38. I went down a size due to my anticipation that it would be voluminous.


I know there's something sewing on...
Fabric
A floral printed knit from the shop mentioned earlier in Oskarshamn, Sweden. I believe my husband paid extra taxes on this fabric.

Heather also liked the fabric and style. To make a top more age-appropriate for her, I drafted the top from one of her RTW shirts, gathered the center front and added a little band.



Favorite Features
*Gathered center front held by a thick loop or band

*Sweetheart neckline

*Entire bodice is self-faced

*Wide shoulder straps

*Pleats below the bust


Not-so-favorite Features
*This type of empire styling has a tendency to look maternity on certain body types like mine

*Seam allowances are not included. It looks like I forgot to add seam allowances to the center band and to the lower edge of the upper front and back bodice pieces.

*To prevent the straps from sliding off the shoulders, I would need to position the straps a tad towards the center.

*I forgot to include the seam allowance above the front skirt and the back skirt which would have prevented some "riding" up one side of my bust.

*The neckline does run somewhat low for my preference


Sewing me, sewing you, it's the best we can do...
Directions
When I opened the pattern at my in-laws' home, surprise! There were no directions in English. Included were 8 languages: Italian, French, Spanish, Dutch, Danish, German, Pyckynn, Swedish. Swedish is to be expected. The English directions were downloadable from the Burda website, however, my in-laws did not have internet at the time. So, I relied on my quasi-fluency in Spanish and French, along with the more than decent illustrations. I admit that my sewing terminology is limited in the two languages, so at times I referred to the illustrations and the words in context. I discovered that 1.5 cm seam allowances were not included. Later I was able to download the English directions. From my perspective, the directions in the other languages seemed more detailed than the English ones.

The center loop or band (after sewing one side right sides together and turning inside out) is basted on the right side of the center front of the bodice before the self-facing is attached. I don't know how I skipped this step. Maybe I had just admired the lovely landscape outside the window to my left and skipped the step where I left off when I returned to sewing.

To prevent the straps from sliding from my shoulders, I wished I placed the straps another cm towards the center. Otherwise, it is not a major issue as is.

As instructed, I handstitched or slip-stitched the folded edge of the facing onto the seam of the upper bodice and skirt (front and back). I then handstitched the other end of the center loop or band along the inside seam over the front self-facing.



Mamma-Mi-odifications

* Shortened straps each by 1"

* Skipped the lengthwise topstitching on the shoulder straps

* Omitted lengthening the top by the recommended 4 cm.



Yes, if I had to do the seams again
I would, my friend, Fernan-Sew...

Conclusion
Although this pattern is marked 3 dots, the overall construction is fairly simple. I was able to get by without the English set of directions!

If I sew this top again, I would
*raise the neckline by a little longer loop to decrease the gathering (although I like the gathering the way it is) or adding the possible missing seam allowance below the bodice

*add the missing seam allowance above the front and back skirts, which I hope would reduce the "expecting" effect.

*transfer the strap positions to prevent the straps from sliding off the shoulders

I still would recommend this top because it has a super potential to be a lovely and versatile summer piece.

My S.O.S. lasted for only 3 days...

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Hej, Hej, Hej, We're Back!

We returned from our 3 week Swedish vacation at around 10 p.m., July 10, California time. It's good to be back home!
Three weeks later, Heather, ready to fly over the Atlantic Ocean



We missed our original flight (3:15 p.m., Chicago time) home when we were scheduled to arrive at 5:20 p.m. due to a computer glitch that delayed checking in at customs. Heather and I waited for Jorgen who was still in line, for over an hour by the baggage claim carousel. He did not need to stand in the line checking in non-US citizens when he could have stood in the line with us for returning US citizens since he is married to me (found that out after a family ahead of us was able to check in when one spouse had Swedish citizenship and confirmed it from one of the airport employees dressed in a dark suit and sporting an official looking badge from a lanyard). Heather started crying, face red and eyes watering. I thought she bumped herself on the cart or something. She said that she was afraid that we would not be able to go home. I reassured her that we will be able to go home, no matter what. Finally, Jorgen came though the doors, but it was around 2:30 p.m. So we rushed (with four luggages on two carts) passing the final customs clerk to turn in our customs declarations forms and after a nod of approval, headed to the United Airline counter to check in our baggages. Jorgen feared losing our luggages, since they were not re-tagged. I glimpsed at the tags just after a guy who worked at the check-in area placed the luggages on the moving belt. I told him that in Stockholm, SAS had already tagged it to San Diego, although we were stopping at Chicago first.


It was nearing 3:00 p.m. and we finally made it to terminal 1, but there were long lines at the security checkpoint (the familiar routine where you remove your shoes, jacket and place these and other belongings in a basket). Jorgen was ready to remove his laptop and video camera from his backpack. There a very, very, very slim chance that we would make it to gate C24 amidst the commotion. One rude security woman threw away our 2 water bottles, my Lancome body lotion, and Heather's sun-block. Yup, I forgot to take them out of carry-on and place them in one of the big luggages. Fortunately Heather's Barbie perfume that we purchased from a duty-free store in the Stockholm airport was in a large sealed transparent bag. The security clerk was eyeing this suspiciously and did not confiscate it. I would have made a fit if she took it from me. I would have screamed "This will make CNN international, and local headline news, with your faces plastered and the caption, O'Hare security heartlessly takes little girl's perfume with store receipt that had already with sealed in a transparent bag." I would even go far as to claim that I am going undercover as a passenger to see what extent security would go through. I forgot this is O'Hare and not the Arlanda Airport in Stockholm.

It was already 3:15 p.m. when we exited the checkpoint and rushed to the gate. Oh well. Then my husband was able to secure a 5:44 p.m. flight, but we would not be able to sit together. In the meantime, we took it easy and ate some yummy kung pao chicken and fried rice (after abandoning McDonald's and Quiznos).

I was able to have Heather trade seats with a passenger so that he would still be sitting by the window and that she would be sitting next to me having the "B" seat (Heather switched her "F" seat with the gentleman's "A" seat on the same row). It just feels good to back home. We had a lovely time in my in-laws Allgunnen, Hogsby home, Sweden for nearly three weeks. We spent four days in Stockholm prior to that, sight-seeing. I could tell that Heather enjoyed spending time with her grandparents, their relatives, and in general, enjoying life in the country, It's a wonderful experience for her to live life out of Southern California. Not too many children have this opportunity. It's good for her to experience and appreciate life from another culture, a culture that is part of her heritage.

Going Back in Time...
June 17, 2009, arriving in Stockholm. We spent four days there before staying with our in-laws in Hogsby (We took a train from Stockholm and bus during the last leg. My in-laws picked us up from the bus station in Hogsby)
Note that Heather still has her two front teeth.

Heather and I at Skansen zoo/park in Stockholm.

Not too far from the Royal Castle in Stockholm.

Jorgen won this huge box full of 25 generous sized bars at Grona Lund amusement park also in Stockholm.

Here's the familiar cliche, I just don't know where to begin.

This was my second trip to Sweden. I would describe both visits as a beautiful change of scenery and lifestyle, comparing them to the seemingly hectic life in Southern California suburbia, where there is a stop sign and soon a traffic light after driving out of our street. My last visit was ten years ago during the Christmas holidays at my in-laws' home in a small town near Gothenberg where my husband lived during his childhood. They moved to Hogsby a few years ago so that my mother-in-law would be closer to her sisters. My in-laws last visit to our home was nearly five years ago, when Heather was a year and a half. She does not, of course remember her grandparents from her father's side vividly from their last visit, but is constantly reminded of them of a picture of the three of them displayed intentionally in a curio in our living room. She remembers her grandfather saying "yo-yo-yo", one his trademark expressions that he still says today and I told her on occasion that when her grandmother was trying to feed her, she said "Heather, you must eat". Then five years later, her grandmother at the kitchen table said the same thing on occasion, but this time deliberately repeating the past with a twist of humor and a big smile. Both the English of my in-laws are limited. However, my mother-in-law speaks better English than my father-in-law and got even more better when she spoke more with Heather during our stay in Sweden.

This time, I kept a little diary of a day by day recollection of people (the relatives we visited or who visited us when we were at my in-laws), places (sightseeing, shopping malls, local grocery stores, Heather's experiences such as her pony rides, cherry picking at her grand-aunt's yard, and her splashing at the neighborhood lake), and things (such as my in-laws finally being connected to the internet, yummy Swedish food at restaurants and at my in-laws house, and Daim ice cream, now one of my new favorites, that I ate at Grona Lund amusement park in Stockholm, at Oland Animal and Amusement Park located on an island off the coast that is part of the city of Borgholm, and during a drive back to my in-laws' home in Hogsby). For the most part the weather was very pleasant. We encountered consistent sunshine and heat during our first week and durig the next two seeks sporadic sprinkles and rains with intermittent sunshine.

Heather's first pony ride (assisted by her grandma) near the home of the sister of my mother-in-law. She was so proud and ecstatic!

View from atop a lookout point in Aborda Klint, Hogsby. This area is also a ski resort during the winter. There is also a restaurant with buffets on certain days.


Heather, grandpa, and grandma enjoying Lake Allgunnen, Aborda Klint. Earlier, grandma took a swim. Heather after drying up and having a snack, returned to the lake, a second time.




Heather, Grandpa, Grandma, Jorgen enjoying the sunshine



Jorgen, Heather and I had a wonderful experience in Hogsby, a town part of the Smaland province in Sweden. It was nice to briefly (3 weeks) get away from our suburban lifestyle in Southern California and to appreciate what life offers on the other side of the planet. Sometimes we take for granted the conveniences such as the nearby Vons' market and shopping malls, the internet, and other things and it was nice to slow down the pace and literally smell the flowers, or in our case taste the wildberries, blueberries, cherries which abound just by walking in the vicinity of my in-laws' yard. I mean they own a real yard surrounding a home in all directions, what I would describe a country yard, where children can play, or in this case where Heather was able to run around and feel unencumbered by our typical suburban yard with no privacy. My in-laws' home is not really isolated for the closest human neighbor is about 50 feet up a hill and the other neighbors are many tall trees and vegetation. My mother-in-laws' sister, Ingalil, owns two ponies and some chickens lives a 15-minute walk (along a nice walkable trail that is ample for a pony with a carriage) away.

The house of Aunt Ingalill, Jorgen's aunt.

She lives in a house that my mother-in-law lived in during her childhood and also with a yard that does not compare to that owned by in-laws. I would qualify Ingalill's yard (front, side, back) and house as an estate. She does not have hired help, she herself maintains the property very well. When my mother-in-law asked Heather if she would like to visit the ponies at grand-aunt Ingalill's, she immediately would put her shoes on before she could say "Yes!" Heather enjoys going to Ingalill's not only for visiting and/or riding one of the ponies via saddle or carriage, picking cherries off the huge cherry tree, or playing on the grass, but I could tell she likes grand-aunt Ingalill for her sweet and cheerful disposition.

Our three-week stay (June 21 through July 10) did not seem quick nor long. Hogsby is approximately a 5 hour drive from Stockholm. Instead of taking the train to Stockholm Arlanda airport, my father-in-law and mother-in-law were very kind to drive us there. We left my in-laws' home around 2:30 a.m. I took a 3-hour nap and woke up Heather which was quite a challenge for her because she turned in at around 10 that evening. Jorgen drove on our way to the airport. i intermittently woke up to admire the landscape or cityscape along the highway. It was quite a change of scenery after getting accustomed to the forestry along the country roads in Hogsby and the surrounding towns. After bidding us "see you later" (which is actually true, because we use "Skype" and our computer to communicate with them now that they have a laptop and internet), Jorgen's father drove him and his wife to their Hogsby home. I hope that they do well on that "long" drive back. I wonder how they will react returning home after getting used to Heather's giggles and energy. My husband just spoke to them via "Skype" and they became so elated when Heather appeared on their web cam screen. My in-laws finally got connected to the internet days (my husband spoke with a local provider to get them connected) before we left Sweden. Now Heather's grandparents from a little town in Sweden seem just like they are right in front us! Hej hej!

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Jiff I Could Turn Back Time

Jiff I Could Turn Back Time

Current dresses with retro flair and with the distinctive keyhole neckline



Lilly Pulitzer's Jubilee Kelby dress with a keyhole neckline and 3/4 sleeves in silk twill, Saks' Fifth Avenue, $378



A paisley mini dress from the Pyramid Collection for $49.95. Hmmmm. Note the subtitle of the website in which this dress appears. The subtitle should read "The Ultimate Source for Personal Dress Shortening..."


Fads of the "me" generation. My mom got upset when I begged her to buy me a mood ring when I was 9. I could have asked her wear one to see if it really worked.

Once I saw this pattern on-line, I had to get it!



Pattern Description
From 1970: "Simple-to-sew* Misses' Jiffy* Dress in Three Lengths: The dress with back zipper, set-in sleeves and slightly lowered round neckline features "keyhole" opening fastened with loop and button. Maxi-length V. 1 has nevlty braid trim. V. 1, 3 * 4 have short sleeves. Midi-length V. 2 has long sleeves. V. 2, 3 & 4 may be worn with self fabric tie belt or with puchased belt. Mini-length V. 3 & 4 have optional button trim." The pattern is suitable for wovens and jersey knits.

After sewing my first "jiffy", a tie top, I became hooked on sewing more jiffies.

Some music for you to get you into the 70's 'mood':

Starting with a little montage of his youth and the span of his career, performing his 1970 classic covered by Ray Charles, The Carpenters, Donnie Hathaway, and even Cher, to name a few, A Song For You, live in 1981. Leon's vocals are pure and gritty (more raw in a 1971 footage) and he's a master at the piano. This guy is still going strong 40 years later. His other hits include "This Masquerade" covered by George Benson and "Superstar" covered by Karen Carpenter.

Getting funky with
a 1970's Funkadelic (Parliament) groove.
They don't make funk like that anymore! I remember from middle school/jr. high the popular "One Nation Under a Groove" from 1978. American Idol's soft pop version from 2005.



Size
Misses' 12, bust 34.



Fabric
A poly/lycra/knit called "Bubbles on the Waves Jersey" from GorgeousFabrics.com that I purchased exactly this month last year. After I sewed Heather's kindergarten graduation dress in this fabric, I used the remaining fabric for my dress.


Favorite Features
* Keyhole opening below the neckline

* Mini, midi, or maxi lengths

* Short or long sleeve options

* I liked the longer, more angled bust darts

* Darts below the shoulders at the back help eliminate or minimize the puffiness in the upper back area

* 'Jiffy' pattern with two main pieces (front and back), sleeves, front and back facings.


* Seam dotted lines are conveniently printed on the pattern pieces

* Pattern worked nicely with the knit

* There is nothing or nothing much to dislike about this pattern, except for a tad extra ease at the sleeve caps. I chose to set-in the sleeves and had to undo a few stitches and re-stitch to remove the little 'bunchin' in the front. The short sleeves came out longer than I had originally anticipated. Maybe they were drafted that way.


Directions
The directions are sufficiently clear in an easy-to-read format, with reliable and detailed illustrations.

*I changed the order of construction by adding fusible interfacing to the front and back facing, before stay-stitching the neckline and sewing the front and back darts. I transferred the keyhole marking onto the interfaced side of the facing piece. I sewed the front facing to the back facing at the shoulders and finished the lower edge with a tiny 1/4" seam.

*The keyhole neckline was very easy to create. After I stitched facing along the neckline from one front end to the other, I followed the stitching line on the front facing(in the shape of a teardrop), ending to the point where I started sewing along the edge of the neckline. I trimmed the seams at the neckline and along the curves that form the keyhole opening. I pressed the facing to the inside.


Modifications
* Omitted the zipper and the vertical back darts

* Shortened the given mini-length 2"

* The directions "make a thread loop" was not clear to me. I did it my own way by creating several horse shoe-looking loops over each other large enough to accommodate the size of my button. To reinforce the loops as one solid loop, I sewed a thread in a coil-like or helix-style fashion.

Conclusion
I really like this pattern and plan to sew another one in a knit and another in a woven. This pattern could easily be shortened to a top, thus increasing its versatility.

I recommend Simplicity's JIFFY classics for being not only being really simple to sew (unlike current patterns labeled easy), but still very fashionable in a "no-frills" sort of way.

For you Cher fans as myself, here's her version of A Song for You

Saturday, June 06, 2009

The Big Ten

Wow! Jorgen and I have been married for 10 years! It just seemed like yesterday when we started dating. Heather seemed to be more ecstatic than both of us combined! After one mention of the date of our anniversary and she engraved it to memory. Before the end of last month, she kept hinting at our anniversary. This sure means a lot to her as it does to us. Children just have a way of expressing their happiness very freely and have a good sense what is very meaningful in our lives.

Eleven years ago at Splash Mountain, DisneyWorld, Orlando



Eleven years later at Splash Mountain, Disneyland, Anaheim (can you spot Heather?)

Jorgen and I certainly wore our same "eeeeeee" expressions in both situations!

We had a quiet dinner at home and Heather asked very politely, "Can I sing you and Dad a song?" She acted as if this meant not only so much for us, but for her.

She stood between Jorgen and I and sung from her heart, "Happy Anniversary to you. Happy Anniversary to you...I'm singing this song for you..." I nearly cried because I have never heard her sing this way before from the heart and in a melody that seemed to be well-rehearsed, reminiscent of Elton's "Your Song", one of my all-time favorites. I held back the tears, otherwise I would not be able to stop if I started.

I asked her if she wrote the song herself and she proudly said "Yes".

This was the most memorable and BEST anniversary present that my husband and I received. Heather, WE LOVE YOU!

Thursday, June 04, 2009

One Lovely Blog Award



Many thanks to BConky from Cats and Calico. Here are the rules: 1) Accept the award, post it on your blog together with the name of the person who has granted the award, and his or her blog link.2) Pass the award on to 5 other blogs that you’ve newly discovered. Remember to contact the bloggers to let them know they have been chosen for this award.Here are my newly discovered blogs..check em' out!

The key word is newly discovered. I decided to list more than five. Drum roll.....

1. Lulu's Vintage. This is such a fun website with not only current and retro fashion trends, but other bits of nostalgic items.

2. Lisa at the Hem Line Lisa is a fabulous craftser! She also has free pattern giveaways.

3. _Sewn by Alviana. Alviana's beautiful smile, charm, and prolific talent is evident in her website. She knows how to entertain! Check out her wedding featured on Bridal Guide Magazine.

4. Ms Cookie's Math Teacher Mambo. I started reading Ms Cookie's website and got hooked. She's not only a wonderful resource, but she's inspirational and insightful. What a coincidence... I thought I was the only math teacher that experienced eccentricities in the classroom.

5. Something About Merry. Isn't that a cute title? Lisa just started her blog on sewing and other interests. I just got to try her Chocolate Bread pudding recipe which looks yummmy.

6. Annette's Needles and Nails. The title says it all and then some. I have been a secret lurker of her website since I started reading her stunning fashions on Pattern Review. She creates wonderful outfits for her and her daughter and I confess that I ENVY her gorgeous nails (such a cool feature: 'nails of the day')!

7. Richy's Blog: CharlieandDottie. I thought it was very cool that his grandfather taught him to sew and extra cool that he named his blog in honor of his grandparents. This very talented young man creates the sleekest shirts of supreme quality and and his tutorials are very helpful. I hope he soon comes out with his designs because I definitely will be one of the first ones to buy the "Richy" name!

8. Akazukin's Blog Once I started reading her blog, wow, she has more than the chic outfits that she sewed! Where would you find out about a bag in the shape of a large denim bow, a Pickachu sponge cake, Stawberry Milk Tea, and Hello Kitty toilet paper?

Saturday, May 30, 2009

That 70's Pattern


I remember watching re-runs of the popular 60's-early 70's popular tv show, "That Girl", series when I was in grade school. I thought Ann-Marie wore the coolest clothes!

One source mentions that "That Girl" was "the groundbreaking series to realistically portray the life of a single, independent young woman" which led me to think of classic tv shows such as Mary Tyler Moore, Julia (Diahann Carroll), Alice (Linda Lavin) Profiler (Ally Walker who played Dr. Sam Waters, the psychic detective), SATC (with Jessica Parker). I cannot think of current tv shows that portray a strong woman with positive qualities. Maybe you can. TV is inundated with many 'reality' shows without substance. Do we need to see more of Tori Spelling or the Kardashian sisters, to name a few?


This 1975 pattern is the Marlo's Corner series for McCall's.

Here's some optional background music to get you into the mid-70's mood while you continue reading. One of my all-time favorites!. Check out E.J.'s lapels and sleeve caps!



Pattern Description
Set of knit coordinates: tops, skirt, and pants.

Before Lauren Hutton, Christie Brinkley, Shari Belafonte, Marie Osmond, and Brooke Shields, Marlo came out with her collection of patterns. Do you know if if there are other celebrities, if any, who preceded Marlo?

Although I am aware that not everybody sews with vintage patterns, it's fun to compare vintage and current patterns and see that most if not all current styles contain design elements from the past. The layout and presentation of the methods have changed, but the methods of constructions have not so much. Often, in working with vintage patterns, I like to adhere to the methods described. However in some instances, I prefer to use current sources to facilitate the construction.



Fabric
Poly knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. It was very nice to sew with!

Features
* Very easy to sew
* For the knit top, there were only 5 pieces to work with: front, back, sleeve, front facing, and back facing.
* Top is close fitting.
* High armscye
* There is quite a bit of ease at the sleeve caps. They seemed to drafted that way.
* Neckline is self-faced. It would be simpler to bind the neckline using a bias facing made from the same fabric or stabilize the neckline with serged finish or invisible elastic.


Directions





Directions in an easy-to-read and compact format. I like the fact that all views are easily accessible, without having to flip through several pages.



Modifications
*Omitted the back zipper. Was it possible that it was needed for the less stretchy type of knits that was used back then?

*My usual, decreasing the length from the bust to waist by 3/4". I used the printed alteration line and folded in that amount.

*Added 1" to the length, added 1/4" to the side seams.

*I sewed the sleeves flat, instead of setting them in as directed.

*I cut and sewed my own tie belt, without using the given pattern piece due to fabric constraints.


Results
I really like the pattern for the top! I like the flattering fit and plan to make more by varying the shape, width, and depth of the neckline.


I recently wore this top at work.



1975 time capsule

Now I am in the mood to sew a 70's plaid jacket!

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Petals to the Metal


The pattern that I am reviewing shares the same number with an older NL pattern.

I just purchased this pattern recently with several Simplicities from JA's.



I liked the retro/classic style of the gathered front and raglan sleeves. I thought the simple style would nicely showcase the stunning embroidered eyelet flowers on off-white linen purchased from EmmaOneSock.com.


The pants come from New Look pattern 6733 made in a soft double knit fabric from FashionFabrics.com

Floral prints welcoming summer:

Generra's Eggshell Tunic for $195 from the Fashion Chateau website

Alfani blouse with multi-petaled flowers

Tory Burch's Stephanie tunic with large embroidered flowers for $395


Update May 31, 2009

After I sewed my first top, I thought I give this pattern another try! I used "A Surfeit of Suns" from Gorgeous Fabrics in a lightweight and nearly sheer 100% cotton and noticed that the top did not billow out as much as the first one. The only modification I made was lengthening the upper 3/4 sleeve by one inch and making an elastic casing, thus omitting the flounced cuffs.

Heather, Jorgen, and I will be visiting Sweden in a week and half (Heather's grandparents have not seen her in 5 years) so what better way to honor this beautiful country by wearing yellow and blue!

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Original Review

Pattern Description
There were none, although I found "9 pieces" above the technical drawings and "misses' six sizes in one.

...why don't you turn me LOOSE, turn me loose, turn me loose, I gotta SEW it my way, or no way at all..

Here's my description: loose-fitting tops with neckline options: gathered with an elastic or ruffled, and sleeve options: long with elasticized cuffs, 3/4 with flounced cuffs, short sleeves with gathered hems, and sleeveless with ties at shoulder.


Size
Misses' size 6-16. I sewed a "12".


Time After Time
Does this top live up to its name, the 2 hour top?
Yes, it probably would have had taken 2 hours or less if I had not finished the seams, added a flounced cuff, created and attached a little bow, and fuss with fitting.


Fabric
Embroidered linen from Emma One Sock.


Features
*Gathered, rounded neckline

*Simple to sew

*Raglan sleeves, a diversion from setting in sleeves.
After creating the sleeve, I turned it inside out per directions, and attached the lower half of the armscye to that of the bodice, right sides together.

*Neckline and sleeve variations for a variety of looks

*Still loose-fitting after going down a size. I usually sew a "12" in the shoulders and "14" below the shoulders, but for this pattern I went down a size. The model of View A cinched her waist with a belt. Maybe the tops are meant to be billowy with the option to wear a belt.

*The upper sleeve was a bit wide to have a flounced cuff. The top would seem to look more proportionally balanced with the upper sleeve with the gathered bottom hem, without the flounced cuff.


Directions
If you can sew straight seams, hem, and gather, then you should encounter no problems following the steps and relying on the illustrations.

Safety Dance
I used a small safety pin to carefully insert the 1/4" wide elastic (length measured from a printed elastic guide, according to size). Silly me, before folding and stitching the neckline casing, forgot to trim the seams where each sleeve and neckline intersect to reduce the bulk and to facilitate threading the elastic. I undid the stitching at two corners, resume the threading of the safety pin with elastic, and restitched the corners.

Modifications
* Omtted the bias tape at the neckline. Instead, I turned 1/8" under and sewed a nearly 1/2" hem (7/16")

* Took out 3/4" in length between the bust and waist

* I shortened the elastic by about 3" to tighten the neckline, enough to prevent it from slipping off my shoulders.

* Instead of using a ready-made ribbon, I cut a strip of fabric, sewed lengthwise along the edge, right sides together, tied it into a bow and tacked it to the center front.

* I prefer to wear a belt to cinch the waist because the top is still somewhat loose. The one I am wearing in the photo is temporary. I am in search of a belt that has a flattering width and coordinates well with this top.



Conclusion
If I plan to sew this pattern again, I would add more contour to the side seams to reduce the billowy or tent-like look and make one in a drapier fabric and another in a solid, with different sleeve lengths.

I highly recommend this top if you like the gathered neckline style and have the patience to thread elastic through the neckline casing.