Collarly Pursuits

I hope you are all having a nice start of the new year.

After 5 months of an unintended sewing "hiatus", I sewed three tops (first from Simplicity 1280 and two from McCall's 6796) within 2 days.  I was inspired to return to my sewing machine after seeing Sherril Miller's gorgeous new wardrobe. My two tops came from McCall's 6796. That "sideswept" collar enabled me to purchase this.

 

 Last month, I just happen to find a sweater in Macys.com that closely resembles view "D":

Pattern Description:
"Misses' tops: Close-fitting, pullover tops have collar variations and narrow hem."

Pattern Sizing:6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12".

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, sans the buttons

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, especially if you have sewn basic knit tops with collars.


 

Likes/Dislikes
I like the overall fit, the draped collar and the sleeve options. It is very easy to sew. Although it is an "easy" pattern, it is also "easy" to reverse the location of the collar opening and points. Nothing to dislike with this pattern.

Fabric Used: 
Both tops: ITY jersey from fabricmartfabrics.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waist and removing 3/8" from the center back.

Usually for knit tops, I sewed in the sleeves "flat" instead of setting them in as directed.

For my second top, I cut the front and back along the bias (to look less like a sports referee). The stripes go vertical along the original grain. 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Since I already sewed two sleeveless tops in the same style, I might sew another top but with sleeves and including the buttons. I definitely recommend this pattern. Ideal for beginners and for some easy sewing gratification.

Conclusion:
It took approximately one evening to sew each top. :-)

Mc-Cowl's 6963 Tops and A Fair-y Good Day

Calvin Klein's Colorful Cowls

(Now say that more quickly)

McCall's 6963:  Close-fitting, pullover tops have draped front neckline variations (high or low cowl), narrow hem on back neckline and stitched hems. A: armhole bands.

Size: Misses: 8-10-12-14-16. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, neckline, and armscyes tapering to a 14 elsewhere.  

Fabric Previous versions: rayon jersey knit from fabric.com 

Third version: Polyester/lycra blend from a local Yardage Town.

The drape of the neckline varies with the fluidity of the knit.

 

Heather and I (wearing the third version of this McCall's pattern) at one of the exhibits at the Del Mar/San Diego County Fair. This year's theme is "The Fab Fair".

 

Full exhibit without human models displaying "prize-winning"  handmade clothing

Two of my favorite Beatles tribute quilts that we saw in the same exhibit hall:  

 

Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features of McCall's 6963:

  My favorite features are the options for the two levels of drape and sleeve lengths (sleeveless, short sleeve, long sleeve). My not-so-favorite feature is after my typical adjustments in my first version, the top required more adjustments. In other words, there was still extra fabric in the length that would work better with a longer torso.

Here is my second version after my disappointment with my original (in rayon jersey animal print which fits somebody I know perfectly in such a way that it complements her longer torso.) . The sleeves were borrowed from McCall's 6884's wrap dresses.  I wish I had used the short sleeves that came with this cowl neckline pattern instead.  They would have seemed to create an aesthetic balance with the rest of the top.  After I decreased the length another inch at the front and back, I was still not satisfied with the results. More fabric needed to accommodate my bust (my bust consists of two different size cups). Yup, I agree with this pattern being form-fitting per the description.

 

 Directions: The first 3 pages are devoted to tissue-fitting the pattern for the most common adjustments (at the marked alteration lines): broad back, high round back, low round back, full bust, full hips, sway/flat back, forward shoulder, and full arms. The sewing directions seem user- friendly like those found in a typical Kwik Sew pattern: each step is supplied with a diagram. For instance, in step #8, page 5, "Turn front self facing to outside along foldline (over back), matching notches. Stitch entire shoulder seam..." is made more clear with the diagram showing the placement of the front facing with respect to the shoulder seam and the back neckline.


Modifications/Alterations: For my third version, while keeping the draped neckline of this pattern intact, I redrafted the front and back pieces using my already altered Sewaholic Renfrew for below the armscyes.

Conclusion: I like the draft of the neckline, but more alterations need to be done to achieve my desired fit. The pattern is very helpful in terms of addressing and detailing common alterations. I did not want to reinvent something if I have something such as the Renfrew that already works for me.

Here are two of those rare moments when my husband poses for the camera.  He really is camera-shy.  What is really cool is that he does not mind my sewing addiction.  He encouraged (more like prodded) me to take a look at the SEWING machines available at a vendor's booth.

 

It's a Wrap with McCall's 6884

Three dresses in wrap-tivity

Two styles of wrap dresses, both by Maggy London

 

Include dress and sleeve length options, we have McCall's 6884

Pattern Description:
Close-fitting, pullover, mock wrap dresses have right front variations, tie ends and narrow hems.  I sewed view "B", the dress with the "wrap-around" tie.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses; 6-8-10-12-14.  I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, and a "14" elsewhere.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except I made my dress a true instead of a faux wrap dress.


Fabric Used:
ITY knit from fabric.com

 

Instructions
They were separated by the two pairs of views, A/B, and C/D, and there was no need to muddle through the steps to see what are common to all views.

The ones for views "A" and "B" were satisfactory, paying attention to basting the front sides after the "crossover" (right front over left front) while not getting the back piece involved (the diagram adequately shows this step.   After reinforcing and stitching the shoulder seams, stitching a 5/8" narrow hem along the front edges (below a "square"), and forming the two tie belts,  I digressed from the directions to create a true wrap dress.  Hence, I avoided basting the fronts (right front over left front while both are facing upwards) together at the seam allowances and stitching them onto the back piece, right sides of the fabric together.


Likes/Dislikes
I was originally drawn to the side wrap view, but ended up making a true wrap dress, with the ties encircling the waist and meeting at the front.  Wrap dresses seem to flatter every figure type. I agree with other fellow PR'ers of this pattern that the waist tie placement markings are high, even for me being short-waisted.  I plan to place the markings additional inch below the original ones for my next dress.

The neckline seemed somewhat wide and low for me which prompted me to make adjustments.

 

Alterations/Modifications
*My typical narrowing of the upper back, 3/8" from the center back and my 1" petite adjustment at the waist.

*Instead of sewing the waist ties at the marked dots as specified on the pattern piece along the sides of the right and left fronts, I sewed a tie end, after turning in the raw ends, to each front, just above the narrow hem or the skirt of the dress. 

*On the right side seam, 1" below the lowest marking originally designated for the raw end of the tie belt, left a 1" opening to allow the end of the tie belt left front to pass through and encircle the back and then meet the tie end of the right front before securing a knot or bow.

*Raised the neckline 1" from the lower edge to 0" at the shoulders.

*To prevent gaposis, I bound the neckline with a bias strip cut in the same fabric 1 1/4" wide.  Starting from one end of the fabric,  I slightly stretched the strip as I pinned it to the neckline, right fabric side of strip to inside of dress. After cutting to an appropriate length, I turned the strip to the outside, folded the raw edge under over the seam allowance, pinned, and topstitched at the edge. I might have stretched the fabric strip a little more than I should, but at least I have the reassurance of modesty. 

Conclusion:
Although I did not adhere to the directions of views A/B,  I still recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction, the style options, and has a potential to be a "go-to" wrap dress pattern.

Going Jacquard-i with a 1967 Butterick

Current dresses that closely resemble the styles of a 1967 pattern  that I will review are these from Ralph Lauren's spring 2014 collection.

Fashion inspiration:
Who could forget from the 1960's this magical and mod-tastic  "genie"?

Yup, it is Barbara Eden, who is now 82 years young!

From 1967, a sheath dress

Pattern description: 
Sleeveless, slightly A-line dress with funnel collar has squared armholes and button and top-stitch trim.  Front and back of dress are top-stitched to side panels.

Size: 
Misses', bust 34

Fabric:
Ace Jacquard Knit Tile Blue/White

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0340751/ace-jacquard-knit-tile-black-white

Likes/Dislikes 
I purchased this pattern on-line due to the  slightly-A-line style and funnel collar.  The design features that give this dress distinctiveness are the side panels bridging the front and back and with top hemmed edges rest below the armpits.   The dress seemed to be easy to sew, although I anticipated it would take more time than other sheath style dresses due to the front and back to be basted to the side pieces and topstitched along those edges.

I "shuddered" at the thought of having to face the front and back.  Because I was not able to think of a way to forgo the facings, I went ahead and cut them from the fabric. 

The faced edges (turned to the inside) of the front and back to the side panel will be basted and topstitched onto the edges of the side panels.

Front and back finished with front and back facing

Directions:   
Sufficient or bare-bone  directions  with detailed diagrams. The notches at the front and back facings (joined at the shoulder seams) align nicely with the corresponding notches at the front and back.

The dress took me nearly 16 hours to construct. The steps such as the  attaching the facings, overlaying and basting the front to the sides and
the back to the sides, and topstitching the edges are more involved
than suggested by the diagrams. 




I used the continuity of the fabric print design to assist me in aligning and basting the front and back to the corresponding seam allowances on the side panels.   As for the directions to attaching the zipper,  I was told to refer to those that came with the zipper.  However my zipper did not with any directions, due to being  purchased by the bulk from e*ay.   I find that the Colette tutorial to inserting an invisible zipper a very useful reference.

 I also handstitched the hems and the edges of the collar from the inside.

 Modifications:

My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

Narrowed the upper back 3/8" at the center seam 

Shortened the pattern 4" from the lower edge and hemmed an additional 2" using handstitching, making it a knee-length dress, appears longer in the photos. Mini-dresses are cool, but as I near 50 in about 2 years, I don't feel like taking my dresses to a "higher level". 

Omitted the side buttons.  They would not seem to work with the look of my dress.

Conclusion: 
If you have the patience for projects that require a lengthy time commitment, the  experience with sewing a zippered dress,  and a passionfor this style of a dress, then I recommend this pattern.  I would not recommend this as a "first dress" pattern due to the plethora of time to be invested in fabric placement, basting and topstitching. The time factor has precluded me from trying this pattern again, but I like the sense of accomplishment from adhering to a project that provided  a worthwhile challenge until its completion.  Contests such as my all-time favorite, the vintage sewing pattern contest,  give me that nice and
needed nudge to sew a theme-inspired garment.

Going Knot-ical with Style Arc's Abby Cardi

Trend: Cardigans with front ties.

I purchased the Abby Cardi with another Style Arc pattern last February and received the "Izzy" as a free pattern of the mongth.

 From StyleArc: "Great jersey cardi to have for all occasions, wear it over your cami or dress, knot it at the front or leave it casually hanging down casually. Optional 2 sleeve lengths." Available sizes are misses' 2-30.  I ordered a "12".

Fabric Used:
First version (green and black): ITY jersey knit from fashionfabricclub.com, on sale for $4.95/yard 

Second version (gray with waves): thin sweater knit from emmaonesock.com

 My first Abby cardi untied.  I prefer the "knotted" look

 

Instructions
I consider them satisfactory and sufficient. They consist of a list of steps assuming that you have experience in sewing basic garments.  They are not "user-friendly" and detailed with helpful diagrams found in Kwik Sew.   I used Thornberry's method for a clean and neat finish for the collars and folded front facing (using the "burrito" or "sausage" method) per Clothing Engineer's review of this pattern.

Likes/Dislikes
I have sewn Style Arc patterns in the past  and have been impressed with the available on-trend and classic styles that are wonderful additions to anybody's wardrobe.  It was easy to cut out and handle the pattern pieces that were printed on sturdy paper.  After use, they can be easily stored in the clear resealable envelope that the pattern illustration/directions and folded pattern sheet originally arrived in.

Nothing to dislike here.


Pattern alterations/Modifications
* 1" petite adjustment at the waist.

* For my green/black cardi, I lengthened the sleeves 1".  I did not do this to my gray cardi, due to paucity of fabric.


*Sewed a strip of interfacing to the shoulders of the back.


* Used the instructions for the a neat finish of the inside collar and placement of front facing with respect to the shoulder seams with the "burrito method" as described in Thornberry's blog I would not use this method for heavier knits.


 View of the collar and upper portion of the front facings from the inside. It was tricky to stitch at the inner corners:

*Turned in a narrow hem and topstitch along the fronts (reinforcing a little triangle turned in at each corner of the front ties)  and the lower edges of the sleeves and the entire cardi.  Using a serger would facilitate the construction.

Future Plans/RecommendationsI became "hooked" on this pattern after my first attempt and was able to make my second version on the same day (part of my spring vacation from work).

I plan to make my third cardi when I have some "free time" in the next month or so.

I definitely recommend this pattern due to the simplicity of construction, working with only five fabric pieces (two front, one back, two sleeves). A change of fabric produces an entirely different look and feel.

Cowl-Aesthetics with Sewaholic's Renfrew

Update: March 16, 2014, my fourth version in an ITY knit purchased from fashionfabricsclub.com:
 

Back:



Original post:
A half dozen of "cowl-ympic" styles

 

I recently succumbed to the temptation of purchasing Sewaholic's Renfrew pattern at PR after reading many of  the currently available 105 reviews.

 

Pattern Description: Fitted knit top features banded hems with sleeve and neckline variations. View A has long sleeves and a scoop neckline. View B has short sleeves and a deep V neckline. View C has a dramatic cowl neckline and three-quarter length sleeves. Mix and match any of the sleeves with any of the neckline options for unlimited possibilities. I sewed "nearly" two versions of view C, the top with the cowl neckline due to the sleeve variations. For the first version, I used the short sleeves from view B, and for the second version, I used the long sleeves from view A. 

Size: Misses' 0-16. I sewed a "12".  

Fabric: 
Version #1: A stretch lycra remnant 

Version #2: An unconventional choice for a Renfrew cowl top, a rayon/cotton knit (EOS) in a bizarrely bold and busy geometric print (that may not be fancied by everyone) that has been in my stash since autumn 2012. 

"Cowl-aesthetics"

 

The amounts of fabric (view C) specified on the back of fabric needed were 2 1/4 yards (for 55"-60" width) and 3 yards (for a 44"-45" width) which were excessive.   I used well under the entire 1 1/2 yards of my fabric. 

                     Here are the remnants of my "quad-erratic" top:

Directions: I was able to rely mostly on the diagrams since there are no out of the ordinary methods presented. The directions and diagrams remind me of those from a typical Kwik Sew. I anticipate no problems if you are familiar with sewing basic tops or blouses.  


Favorite Features/Not-so Favorite Features:
The most salient feature is the very flattering fit. This top closely resembles the popular Kwik Sew 3740 due to the similar fit and styling, but I'm leaning more towards the Renfrew.  I like the way my second Renfrew top in the rayon jersey skims over my figure producing a "slenderizing" effect. 

Kwik Sew 3740 sewn nearly 2 years ago.  I am wearing it now as I type this.

 

The Renfrew seems to favor soft and stable knits. The depth and drape of the cowl is fine without adjustments. I found it somewhat higher and more flattering than Kwik Sew 3740.  The inner collar seam is well hidden (possibly due to the drafting of the collar not being a typical rectangle). 

 I wish I had this pattern when I sewed with knits for the first time. There is no need for a coverstitch or a serger because there are no hems to topstitch. Sleeve bands and a lower band are used to finish the edges taking away the worry about "wobbly" or "wavy" topstitching. 

Although I made a 1" petite adjustment at the waist, the top was longer on me especially with the lower band. Next time, I would remove 1" from the bottom before attaching the lower band.  

But maybe the longer length is what is trending as shown by this K Collins top:

Modifications/Alterations 
*Used sleeves from the other views for each version. 

 *Narrowed the upper back 3/8" from the center, tapering to 0" in line with the lower armscye. *Folded out a 1" petite adjustment at specified line on the pattern. 

 *Omitted the lower band for the long sleeves. Their lengths were fine without the bands. 

*For my second version, I shortened the sleeve cap by folding out 1/2" across due to the excess ease I encountered when sewing the sleeves in flat in my first version. 

*To juxtapose contrasting directions of the fabric print, I cut the lower band, against the cross grain of the fabric. Since the fabric had a two-way stretch, with less stretch in the vertical direction, I stretched the band a little to accommodate the circumference of the top's lower edge. 

*With the "busy" geometric print, I thought it would be fun to achieve symmetry at the sleeves.  

Recommendations/Conclusion:
This pattern is now my "go to" pattern for not only something quick and easy to sew but to use it as a "base pattern" to recreate my favorite RTW styles or to create a garment with personalized style features. The possibilities are endless. I am very glad that I purchased this pattern! With well over 100 reviews, I can see why this is a favorite in PR. 

High marks for Sewaholic's Renfrew!

The Renfrew cowl pattern has the potential to generate a variety of looks by fabric choice, the drape of the cowl, and sleeveless/sleeve lengths.