Some Peppy-Lum With Vogue 9084

Peplums continue to trend (it seems that they are here to stay) and here is a rare find on the web, a top with a curved front seam from Anthropologie.  This also has an asymmetrical ("high-low" or "mullet") hem which has made a comeback and has not quite disappeared. 

When I was not able to find a particular Vogue since my local JoAnn's has not been quick in replenishing their pattern drawers with the latest McCall's (i.e. beyond the 7200's) and Vogue envelopes (i.e. beyond the 9100's) for the past month now, I discovered this Vogue (9084) and decided to sew view "A".  It has been awhile since I sewed a sleeveless top with a jewel neckline and especially one with a peplum.  What appealed to me was the "drop waist", reminiscent of the late 1980's and early 1990's dresses that I wore.

Pattern Description:  
"MISSES' TOP: Top (fitted through bust) has flounce variations, back zipper and narrow hem. C: stitched hem on sleeves. B and C: wrong side shows on shaped hemline. Purchased bias tape to finish necklines, and armholes A. FABRICS: Broadcloth, Crepe, Ponte Knit, Lightweight Denim." Views B and C have the asymmetrical flounced peplum. All views have the "drop-waist". I sewed view "A", the sleeveless version,

Pattern Sizing: Misses' 8-10-12-14-16 I sewed a "12".  

 

Fabric Used: Rayon/lycra knit from EOS in a vibrant "triangles" print.  The split colors of the shapes make the white triangles to appear as "right-click" arrows.  

 

Instructions
They were adequate and easy to follow, along with the diagrams. As for such  procedures as to apply a zipper (depending on the type you use such as invisible or standard) or to hem a circular skirt, I recommend referring to any of the plethora of useful tutorials available online or in reference books. 

Favorite/Not-So Favorite Features
I like the front and back darts for shaping. Since I am not completely sold on asymmetrical peplums or in the case of views B and C the "mullet-style" or "high-low" hems, I opted for view "A". The front and back hems of the peplum skirt are level. The back portion of the skirt is shorter, landing well below the waist, where the front portion of the skirt is longer due to the curved and higher front seam. The "high-low" seam of the bodice and the skirt along with the differing lengths of the front and back skirts with the level hem, especially seen at a side view adds an interesting dimension to the peplum. Stitching a circular hem requires patience. At times, as I experienced here, it can feel like watching paint dry.

Alterations/Modifications
*Made my typical 1" petite adjustment at the marked line. 

 *Omitted the zipper due to using a knit. 

*Instead of using bias tape as directed, I cut 1 1/2" wide strips of fabric to finish the neckline and armscyes.

 *To stabilize the lower hem, I applied some gluestick on the edges before turning in a scant hem and turning in and stitching a 5/8" hem. I also iron-pressed the edges for a smoother finish.  

 

Recommendations/Conclusion
For now, one from this pattern is sufficient. If you like this variation of a peplum, give it a try.  

I asked my very young fashion consultant (my 12 y.o. daughter, of course) if the style was "o.k." on me because I was not sure about the flounced front being suitable with my figure. She told me that I looked "hip" for a change and the skirt actually camouflaged whatever I wanted to hide. Just recently, she photographed me wearing my new top in front of one of her favorite novelty stores in downtown San Diego. 

Bow-hemian

It is about time to sew a woven top after looking at my fabric stash. This pattern has beckoned me for weeks now.
 

 

From Patternreview.com's description (New Look's description was vague): This easy to sew pattern includes a three-quarter, long sleeves or sleeveless tunic/top with split neck and optional shirttail hem and front pockets. The pants are elastic waist pull-on with tie front. I sewed view "C" that included the "laced-up" front consisting of tie made from the same fabric threaded through 6 loops. Instead of letting the tie "suspend" as shown on the model, I tied it in a bow.  

The directions are written in a logical fashion. The diagrams helped especially in constructing the front facing and the hoops through which the long nearly spaghetti thin ties were threaded.


Size: U.S. size 10-22. I sewed a "12" at a top tapering to a "14" 

Fabric Used: From fashionfabricsclub.com, "Peach beige, dusty orange, aqua blue, aqua green, magenta purple, black and white modern floral print. This very lightweight, soft cotton/polyester fabric has faint woven pinstripe. " I wore a camisole beneath my top due to it being semi-sheer. 

 

Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I like the style of this top reminiscent of 1970's peasant tops. It is comfortable, a tad loose-fitting, but not sack shaped. The keyhole neckline with each tie end threaded through 3 of the 6 hoops (left edge, right edge) is a distinctive style feature. I was not certain if what I see as a "slight sweetheart shape" of the front of the neckline was intended after binding it with a bias strip (cut from the same fabric). As I compared my blouse with that worn by the model, I noticed our necklines look similar. The interfaced fabric facing went over the a portion of the bound edge at the front of the neckline, hence, producing the same type of curvature. But the "lattice effect" on the keyhole front looked elegant on the diagrams, but not so on my top. The number and width of the hoops do not work well with a lightweight and semi-sheer fabric. So, instead of leaving the ties suspended loosely as shown on the model, I tied them into a bow. 

 

Modifications/Alterations
* 1" petite alteration at the waist 

*Added 4 colorful beads at each end of the tie (and then knotted each to end) for embellishment and as an alternative to stitching those itty bitty ends of the narrow ties. *Omitted the side slits. I am not a fan of them.

*Omitted the side slits.

*French seams


 Conclusion: The style works well to showcase the print of the fabric. I recommend this pattern due to its ease of construction and classic style. This is an on-trend piece and works well with slacks, jeans, and skirts. The top was comfortable that I wore it all day to work and back-to-school shopping with my daughter in the early evening (took the photo with shelves of containers).

Return of the Mock with New Look 6301

 This week I added three garments to my wardrobe.  I sewed two sleeveless tops (this time with the mock turtleneck) from McCall's 6796 and a faux wrap dress from New Look 6301.

Pattern Description:
Mock wrap dresses, with sleeve options

Pattern Sizing:
U.S. 8-20.  I sewed a "12".  After sewing the dress, it seemed that a "10" at the shoulders would have been better with this pattern.

 It is a fairly simple pattern to sew.  The cutting and sewing with my slight modifications altogether took nearly 7 hours (with a few little intermittent breaks).  I barely glanced at the directions  and just looked at the accompanying diagrams as cues.  Previous reviews of this pattern provided me with lots of inspiration.

Fabric Used:
ITY jersey from fashionfabricsclub.com

 
Favorite/Not-So-Favorite Features
I have always liked wrap dresses.  Maybe because I omitted the neckband and opted to topstitch a narrow hem, my neckline was uncomfortably low prompting me to wear a camisole underneath.   In my case,  I don't think the narrow neckband would make a significant difference.  The skirt for views "A" and "B" flared out more than expected due to being deceived by the model wearing view "A" shown on the envelope.  It seemed that she was wearing the skirt from views "C" and "D". 

Also it has been a while that I sewed a top or dress where there are separate pieces for the left (with the large pleat)  and right front bodice with the two pleats at the end, or simply my "sewing sense" has been misplaced after not sewing for awhile.  Instead of cutting one of each, I made the unintentional "goof" of cutting the left bodice twice (double layer of fabric).  So I omitted cutting the right bodice, replacing the right bodice with the "extra" left bodice piece.



Alterations/Modifications
*As previously mentioned above,  I omitted the neckband and did not use the right bodice piece due to my silly "goof". 

 

* Omitted my typical petite adjustment at the bodice fronts from my past experience sewing wrap dresses.  If I had a longer torso, I can easily imagine the waistline being not too far below my bust.

*Narrow back adjustment (remove 3/8" from the upper center back seam)

*Stitched the sleeves "flat" instead of setting them in. 

*Omitted the elastic.

*Took in the sides of the skirt, (from a size "12" to an "8")

*Shortened the skirt 3 1/2" to get the dress to knee length.

*Omitted the attached belt.  I did sew a long "detached" belt in the same fabric.  But I also like the option to use other belts.  I found a narrow red belt that complemented with the dress even more nicely than this wide brown belt I "borrowed" from a RTW top.


Conclusion:
I most likely would use this pattern once again, but using the more fitted skirt pieces and raising the neckline.  However, I still recommend this pattern.  It is fairly easy to sew.   You really cannot go wrong with a wrap dress.  It can flatter any figure.  

 


From Nine West: 

Two of a Twisted Kind from Burda WOF

From Macy's, a pair of keyhole necklined tops with a "twist"

 

Pattern Description
From Burda Style, page 19 of the February 2014 issue:
MANAGER CHIC, Jersey Shirt 130 B/C
This figure hugging shirt has something special: a cleverly intertwined neckline.

My description:  a knit top with a teardrop-shaped keyhole neckline, through which a gathered strap of fabric passes through and encloses this piece with a gathered center front seam. 

View A is made from double layer of fabric for the front and back (self-lined) and views B and C, a single layer for the front and back.


Fabric:
Most recent version:  a 4-way stretch rayon/lycra knit (20% in the width, 10% in the length), opaque yet lightweight with wonderful drape and a "dry" (not slippery) hand. The print is a wonderful "birds aflight" design in soft white on a black background  from EOS.

 


Original version:
Betsey Johnson's tangerine/indigo emblem unit, a soft, semi-opaque polyester nylon knit from EOS.

Favorite Features of  the Pattern:
There were only 3 pattern pieces to trace and 1 rectangular piece cut with given dimensions.  I used a different color highlighter for each pattern piece for easier tracing.  I used large white gift tissue paper, purchased from a party supplies store, as an alternative for tracing paper.

I like the dramatic keyhole neckline with a gathered strap or band, cut from a  rectangular piece of fabric (42 cm length, 24 cm width per the directions) whose both gathered ends (10 cm width) are first attached to the back of the neckline prior to being enclosed with the center front seam that forms the keyhole at the front of the neckline.

Not-So Favorite or Questionable Features of the Pattern:
The typical Burda Style directions and the construction methods, especially for the front, gathered strap for the neckline.  The gathered ends (from 24 cm to 10 cm) are stitched to the back of the neckline at two placement markings, before stitching the shoulder seams and turning in and top-stitching the upper edge of the entire neckline.  I wonder if it would have been better to just fold the rectangular piece, right sides together, sew a side seam, and turn the entire piece inside out, forming a strap with only the visible side of fabric showing. But the strap would most likely lose the "scrunched" look of the neck band which was the intended look.

Update with recent version: I made a strap (side seam and turned inside out) and did not worry about the "wrong" side of the fabric showing at my neckline.  This worked fine for this version.

Without adding length allowance , the sleeves are long, and probably meant to be "pushed back" as shown on the model.  Another thing I noted were that sleeves are really fitted despite my arms and legs disproportionally slender with respect to the rest of me. 




 






























Directions:
Typical, cryptic Burda Style directions.  I had to reread them twice to translate them from "Burda Speak".

There were 2 placement markings (vertical slashes)  on the back of the neckline for the neckband.  I was somewhat confused precisely where to place the gathered ends.  It would have been clearer  if there were two pairs of placement markings in which each pair shows the width of the gathered end of the band.  I should have basted (instead of immediately stitch) the ends while checking whether or not the "loop" will pass over my head and fit comfortably encircle my neck.  Burda does not mention doing this, probably with the assumption that we automatically check for fit. I had to place the ends of the neckband further apart  to accommodate the circumference of my head, which surprised me because I am not megacephalic.  Burda recommends cutting the strap with dimensions 39.5-50-50.5-41-41.5-42 cm corresponding to sizes 34-44.  I see this as only a guideline and adjust accordingly depend on the stretchiness of the knit and the wearer's measurements.  


Modifications/Adjustments to the Pattern:
It seems that Burda Style patterns are designed for a well-proportioned woman who is at least 5'6".  One petite adjustment is not enough in the bodice.   From experience in addition to my typical 1" adjustment at the waistline mark, I shortened the pattern 1", 7 cm below the armscye. This reduces the  fabric bunching, wrinkling, and folding at the back.
*Instead of finishing the keyhole by folding under and top-stitching, I stitched from the inside of the garment while stretching slightly, a strip of fabric cut on the bias (1¼" width) A ¼" from the raw edge of the keyhole.  Then I turned the strip  to the outside, tucking under its raw edge strip, pressed it and top-stitched near its edge.

Recent version: shortened the sleeves.


At a local bookstore for a photo and a copy of his new book:  Heather, Shane Dawson (You Tube star and author of "I Hate My Selfie"), and me.  Heather and other tween and teen-aged girls were just so thrilled to see and meet this cute young man.  In my day, it was pop/rock star RICK SPRINGFIELD, and for these young ladies, it is now "You-Tube sensations" such as Shane.  I still do not get what it is about screaming girls and You-Tubers. It is just the sign of the times.


Conclusion:
Hopefully after spending the worthwhile time altering the pattern and fiddling with the neckline, things will go smoothly for my next version.

After noting the quirks I experienced,  I still agree with the rating that this is a one dot or easy pattern .  The dramatic neckline makes this top a standout in this issue.  

True-ly Wrapped Up in the Moment

 Two months ago on a Saturday, January 25, 2015, I was so excited to see and hear 1980's pop sensation Spandau Ballet (of 1983's "True" hit single) live at The Wiltern in Los Angeles  (after waiting for nearly 30 years ago).  I wanted to wear something comfortable, fun and yet stylish. I wanted to figure out what to sew from the remaining striped fabric from a sleeveless top I made recently with a McCall's pattern. Then after sifting through my "to be sewn next" pattern stash, I found this Burda mock wrap top.

Pattern Description (Burda Style simply used "shirt") 

Cross-over wrap top with "folded-in" self-facing, front "inner" hem, back section's seam folded-in to align with the front, and long sleeves.  

 

I sewed a view "B", the longer version well past the hips.

Directions
The directions with the diagrams are satisfactory.  It is easy to "mix-up" the cross-over part, especially when I nearly forgot to turn the fronts so that the basted/stitched raw edge is turned in, so the seam is seen at the bottom for a smooth finish and the wearer's visible right front is over the left front.  Pressing the lower edge will reduce the wrong side of the fabric from showing, especially when the front section rides up the torso, for instance, while raising the arms.    
The second one I plan to make will hopefully go smoother.  Overall it is simple to make.

The wrap is 6 1/2" above the seam

Nearly 2 1/2 months later, second version: Due to the lapse of time from my first to the second top, I had to revisit the directions, especially for how to sew the side seams, being careful not to catch the right front's "turned-in" facing (at a marked line for a particular size), above the start of the angled slit in order to avoid "bunching" from a triple layer of fabric.





Sizes:  Eur 36-46, US 10-20
I sewed a 38 at the shoulders and a 40 elsewhere. The top is "fitted" on me.

Fabric: ITY jersey

Maybe I was going for this look in stripes, but with my wider stripes, I feel like a "referee".

 

"Honey, are you now their referee?

I also found the opportunity to wear this "referee" look of a top to the Spandau Ballet concert.   I also seized the opportunity to hug lead vocalist Tony Hadley (after telling woe me drove nearly 3 hours to Los Angeles to see them!) and drummer John Keeble, shake hands with Martin Kemp and take a group photo with the band during the sound-check/mini-rehearsal/meet and greet session prior to the fantastic concert.

 

Pattern Alterations/Modifications
I sewed the sleeves in "flat" instead of "setting them in" per the directions.

My 1" adjustment at the petite adjustment line above the waist mark.

Second version which I wore April 7,  a day after returning from our Spring hiatus:

Four ladies who had fun at the concert!

Recommendations/Conclusion:
It is a fairly simple top to sew once you sew the first version.  I like the overall fit, although the sleeves are a tad snug (first version due to fabric).  The neckline is undeniably conservative, but is balanced by a flattering and sleek silhouette.  I have another one to sew that I cut out (2 months ago, right after sewing the striped top)....already done ;-)

 

Triangular Keyhole Neckline in a Square Patterned Fabric with Simplicity 1280

Some tops with a triangular keyhole at the neckline and a crossover "draped" front:

More tops with similar details and sleeve variations

Simplicity 1280 is on-trend  

Pattern Description:
Top with banded keyhole neckline, elasticized waist and sleeve hems. (Simplicity's: "Misses's leggings, tunic in two lengths and tops")

Pattern Sizing: XS-XL.
I sewed a "M".

I wore my version to work today, Monday (staff meetings and classroom prep time) after the three week winter vacation.  The students officially start school tomorrow.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? 

Yes, even to a somewhat strange puff below the left hip.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, especially if you have sewn various types of tops. It was much easier to sew the sleeves in flat instead of setting them per the instructions. Moreover, there seemed to be not mention to baste or stitch together the two fronts (wearer's right overlapping the left) at the lower edges before turning under for the hem (casing for the elastic), making sure the hem accommodates the width of the elastic.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the keyhole neckline. I am still not sure certain about this blouson style with the crossover front. It is somewhat billowy below the hip and not quite the flattering and slightly fitted style that I favor. Being short-waisted, I tend to avoid extra fabric below the bust.

Fabric Used: ITY knit

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My usual narrowing of 3/8" at the center back, 1" petite adjustment at the waist. I also lengthened the sleeves another inch.

Instead of sewing the band onto the outer portion of the neckline, I sewed it onto the neckline from the inside of the top (right side of the band's edge to the wrong side of the neckline), turned it to the outside with the raw edge tucked underneath, and top-stitched close to the edge.

 I also adjusted the elastic after inserting it through the casing (at the sleeve and lower hem of the blouse), snipping/removing some extra length before sewing the ends of the elastic 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe one of these will do for now. I recommend the pattern if this style (and/or shorter sleeved top that I did not sew) appeals to you.

Just this past weekend at the Grammy Museum in Los Angeles, CA, witnessing "The Taylor Swift Experience" exhibit.

  

My Taylor Swift fan:

Listening to a sample of Miss Swift's music accompanied with a video of a performance.

Collarly Pursuits

I hope you are all having a nice start of the new year.

After 5 months of an unintended sewing "hiatus", I sewed three tops (first from Simplicity 1280 and two from McCall's 6796) within 2 days.  I was inspired to return to my sewing machine after seeing Sherril Miller's gorgeous new wardrobe. My two tops came from McCall's 6796. That "sideswept" collar enabled me to purchase this.

 

 Last month, I just happen to find a sweater in Macys.com that closely resembles view "D":

Pattern Description:
"Misses' tops: Close-fitting, pullover tops have collar variations and narrow hem."

Pattern Sizing:6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12".

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, sans the buttons

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, especially if you have sewn basic knit tops with collars.


 

Likes/Dislikes
I like the overall fit, the draped collar and the sleeve options. It is very easy to sew. Although it is an "easy" pattern, it is also "easy" to reverse the location of the collar opening and points. Nothing to dislike with this pattern.

Fabric Used: 
Both tops: ITY jersey from fabricmartfabrics.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waist and removing 3/8" from the center back.

Usually for knit tops, I sewed in the sleeves "flat" instead of setting them in as directed.

For my second top, I cut the front and back along the bias (to look less like a sports referee). The stripes go vertical along the original grain. 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Since I already sewed two sleeveless tops in the same style, I might sew another top but with sleeves and including the buttons. I definitely recommend this pattern. Ideal for beginners and for some easy sewing gratification.

Conclusion:
It took approximately one evening to sew each top. :-)

Mc-Cowl's 6963 Tops and A Fair-y Good Day

Calvin Klein's Colorful Cowls

(Now say that more quickly)

McCall's 6963:  Close-fitting, pullover tops have draped front neckline variations (high or low cowl), narrow hem on back neckline and stitched hems. A: armhole bands.

Size: Misses: 8-10-12-14-16. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, neckline, and armscyes tapering to a 14 elsewhere.  

Fabric Previous versions: rayon jersey knit from fabric.com 

Third version: Polyester/lycra blend from a local Yardage Town.

The drape of the neckline varies with the fluidity of the knit.

 

Heather and I (wearing the third version of this McCall's pattern) at one of the exhibits at the Del Mar/San Diego County Fair. This year's theme is "The Fab Fair".

 

Full exhibit without human models displaying "prize-winning"  handmade clothing

Two of my favorite Beatles tribute quilts that we saw in the same exhibit hall:  

 

Favorite/Not-so Favorite Features of McCall's 6963:

  My favorite features are the options for the two levels of drape and sleeve lengths (sleeveless, short sleeve, long sleeve). My not-so-favorite feature is after my typical adjustments in my first version, the top required more adjustments. In other words, there was still extra fabric in the length that would work better with a longer torso.

Here is my second version after my disappointment with my original (in rayon jersey animal print which fits somebody I know perfectly in such a way that it complements her longer torso.) . The sleeves were borrowed from McCall's 6884's wrap dresses.  I wish I had used the short sleeves that came with this cowl neckline pattern instead.  They would have seemed to create an aesthetic balance with the rest of the top.  After I decreased the length another inch at the front and back, I was still not satisfied with the results. More fabric needed to accommodate my bust (my bust consists of two different size cups). Yup, I agree with this pattern being form-fitting per the description.

 

 Directions: The first 3 pages are devoted to tissue-fitting the pattern for the most common adjustments (at the marked alteration lines): broad back, high round back, low round back, full bust, full hips, sway/flat back, forward shoulder, and full arms. The sewing directions seem user- friendly like those found in a typical Kwik Sew pattern: each step is supplied with a diagram. For instance, in step #8, page 5, "Turn front self facing to outside along foldline (over back), matching notches. Stitch entire shoulder seam..." is made more clear with the diagram showing the placement of the front facing with respect to the shoulder seam and the back neckline.


Modifications/Alterations: For my third version, while keeping the draped neckline of this pattern intact, I redrafted the front and back pieces using my already altered Sewaholic Renfrew for below the armscyes.

Conclusion: I like the draft of the neckline, but more alterations need to be done to achieve my desired fit. The pattern is very helpful in terms of addressing and detailing common alterations. I did not want to reinvent something if I have something such as the Renfrew that already works for me.

Here are two of those rare moments when my husband poses for the camera.  He really is camera-shy.  What is really cool is that he does not mind my sewing addiction.  He encouraged (more like prodded) me to take a look at the SEWING machines available at a vendor's booth.