Foxes and Apples

There's something about wrap-style tops and dresses: they flatter any figure and add a distinctive verve to an outfit. I just found the opportunity to sew this McCall's pattern not just once, but twice after being in my stash for a year. It is described as "close-fitting" with a neckband, sleeve and hem length variation forms draped knot through opening

Pattern Sizing: XS- XXL. I sewed between a small and a medium, yielding a different fit for the 2 tops I sewed due to the knits used.

First version is in a viscose knit (purchased from emmaonesock.com) printed with white foxes on a black background  Second version in a rayon lycra knit (also from emmaonesock.com) with apples print.

The first top is looser fitting due to the viscose knit being softer and "airier" than the rayon lycra.


Instructions
After I scanned the instructions for an overview of the steps, I was at first intimidated by the construction of the front "twist" below the waist. The diagrams helped along with matching the notches. when connecting the bodice to the "peplum" piece If you have sewn tops with a twist front at the bust, it is the same concept where one end is passed through a small opening of the other end and looped back. The tricky part, as mentioned in other reviews is stitching the hem at the lower edge of the front and around the slit, prior to the stitching the seam between the bodice and the front peplum.

Here is the front piece. On top of a tape dispenser, canned goods, I also used bottles of spaghetti sauce and containers of vitamins as pattern weights instead of pins galore to cut the fabric! It worked well! Below the left can and tape dispenser, you could see the two circles I marked gently onto the fabric. After a few "reinforcement" stitches at those points, I clipped a slit below each point and stitched a narrow hem between each pair of them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

*The asymmetric waist and draping below the waist flatters any figure, camouflaging my physical waves as well as my stitching imperfections at the hem around the "slit".

*Once I sewed my first version, I was able to sew my second one more easily, with a change in the construction of the front hem.

*The pattern was adaptable to create a sleeveless version by using customized width and length of strips to finish the armholes.

*The challenge is construction of the hem around the "slit" (the "U"). I followed a method explain by another reviewer for my second version.

*Even after sewing the two tops, the front hem has a tendency to curl under due to the fabric bunching at the hole, which does not bother me, attributing this as a "design feature".


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Both versions, lowered the neckline 1/2" from the center performed my adjustments to reduce width from the center back and length at the waistline

For the first (short sleeved) version:

*omitted the neckband and due to the workable nature of the knit, turned in narrow hem, hiding the raw edge, and stitched close to the edge
*sewed sleeves flat before stitching side seams

For the second (sleeveless) version

*Special thanks to fellow PR-er KarenMuse on how to finish the front hem, especially at the "U" portion around the slit.

*Stitched a strip of fabric alongside the edge, right sides together, turn strip to inside, fold tucking raw edge underneath, press and stitch.

*I used Megan Nielsen's Neck Binding Method for the neckline and armholes, in which I stitched a strip of fabric alongside the edge the right side of the strip to the inside of the edge together, turn strip to the outside, fold tucking raw edge underneath, press and stitch.  

*Tacked the edge of the "faux" knot just outside the hole to keep the bunched edge of the fabric from turning upwards.

*Lined the edges of the armholes with strips of fabrics

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes sometime soon, I plan to sew a top with longer sleeves as the cooler weather approaches. I recommend this pattern, keeping in mind the stretch of the fabric affects the overall fit and drape as noted in my two versions. Once you sew one, you might want to sew another!



Conclusion:
The draped and twist style below the waist is flattering. Once you sew one, you might want to sew another!

Maskin' Robins

Out for a little drive today (guess who did all of the driving) for a change of scenery. As we were walking towards our local JoAnn Fabrics and Crafts shop, wearing our new masks that I sewed last night, we were surprised to see the "social distance" line and decided to first visit Daiso with only 3 persons ahead of us.

"Cover Girls"

When I showed my daughter her a retro Toucan Sam on the lightweight flannel after requesting me to make her a "new" mask, her face lit up. Nothing like "Froot Loops" to brighten a 17-year-old's day.


Pattern Description:
Face mask with option for filter pocket.

Pattern Sizing:
For reference, the distance from the base of my nose to my chin is 6.2 cm or approximately 2.44 inches.

"I've Just Sewn A Face Mask"

Photo of the pattern piece I used shows the dimensions
widest part of pattern: 4 7/8" or 12.5 cm
longest part of pattern: 6 1/4" or 15.5 cm
vertical edge closest to ears: 7 cm
lowest edge: 4 1/8" or 10.5 cm


The mask in fabric printed with Hello Kitty (Paul Stanley) KISS band themed was sewn from the "trace around a dish plate" pattern (the fit was odd for us)

"Here Comes The Sewn"

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I drew a template from a face mask given to my husband by his friend at work that his wife sewed.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. After watching several face mask how to's on youtube of the similar shape, I prefer the construction of the one with a pocket (3rd layer) for inserting a "filter'. I use a dryer sheet for that "fresh" scent.

This video depicts the procedures that I closely followed:
You Tube Facemask Tutorial by Priyanka Art Craft

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My daughter and I liked the fit (neither too large nor small). Just like any pattern, the dimensions can be customized.

Fabric Used:
Licensed cottons from my stash and remnants from previous projects. The originally uncut "Froot Loops" fabric is a lightweight flannel and the black and white fox fabric that I'm wearing appears to be an ITY knit.

"Abbey Sewed" and "Foxy Lady"

Purr-sonal Purr-tection: "These Cool Cats"

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
With the scarcity of elastic at JoAnn's and other stores, I created the "ear loops" in the same fabric as the mask. I cut a pair of strips on the bias each being 9" in length and 1.25" in width. I sewed straps 3/8" in width, stitching wrong sides together and turning them inside out with a safety pin. The "ear fabric loops" are more comfortable than elastic.

Before stitching the ear loops permanently to ends of the mask, my daughter or I would them on, with the ear straps to the ends secured temporarily with safety pins, adjusting as needed.

"Magical Mouse-tery Contour"

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. I might try sewing a pleated one again and there are a few with youtube videos that look interesting.

Conclusion:
Never thought we would wear them on simple trips to the store to buy essentials, but it's better to be safe.

"I Get By With A Little Help From My FRIENDS"

"Face" the Music: One of those catchy Beatle songs that is now stuck on my mind!
I've Just Seen A Face from 1965

Feast of Burdas

Hello Sewing Friends,

Wow! It has been 1 year and 6 months since I blogged? 

Before I share the most recent Burda tops I sewed, my daughter just turned 17 just this past March! 

  
I thought it was so appropriate that she was born on "Pi Day".  Albert Einstein was also born on Pi day as well which I found out later from a colleague. 

My first review on Patternreview.com in 2006 was on a New Look child's dress pattern that featured her when she was only 3 years old.  As she entered her pre-teen years, I was sewing less for her.  I really missed sewing for her and having matching outfits when she was in grade school, but at least I can treasure the memories of the outfits she adored (especially those favorites that she wore often) such as her Jalie twist top and this when she was in first grade. 




Now back to the present:

After my husband and daughter asked me to sew them face masks due to the current situation, I thought this was a wonderful way to get back my "sewing mojo" and start sewing more.  It was also an opportunity to re-visit my fabric stash, not only for sewing "creative" face masks, but also what I can do to update my wardrobe.   There were also patterns purchased from JoAnn's for months that I have forgotten about.  I have done quite a bit of on-line shopping within March and April due to being "quarantined" (I'm sure Macy's, JCPenney's, NY and Co, and Venus.com were glad that I helped them boost their sales) and was uninspired to return to my sewing machine due to fear of a few pounds that I know I put on from working at home (I would rather work at my classroom and interacting with my students).  But once I started sewing more, I realized I missed the gratification of creating something on my own. 


Just a few days ago, I sewed technically my first update to my wardrobe from this Burda pattern. This pattern constains sleeve variations and option for waist band with tie.  I sewed the version with the split sleeve with the tie at the end sans the band at the lower edge.




I sewed a "10". I'm surprised that it fit the way it did. I used lycra knit from le Wal Marche at only $2 a yard!  I did not count on buying fabric that day, but I had to see what fabrics were available in the sewing/crafts section and it was to my dismay, desolate! 




For the most part, my sleeves looked the way I expected it too, but not sure how the entire top looked in comparison to the one on the model because hers was "tucked in." 

The directions were brief and direct with decent diagrams. Somehow, I think my envelope was missing maybe another page of instructions. I had to figure out on my own the sleeve placement along the armscye (set-in instead of flat due to the sleeves being self-faced).  I nearly sewed it on upside down after pinning and felt that I was making it difficult than it should have been maybe from feeling feeling rusty after not sewing a garment for months.  Eventually, I solved the mystery after constantly looking at the model's version on the envelope.  The sleeve's top un-joined ends (opposite the end ties) are strategically aligned with end of the shoulder seam and below that, the "slit sleeve" style secured by the ties at the ends.

The tie band at the lower edge struck my attention when I purchased this pattern nearly a year ago.   I decided to try the slit-sleeved version as an alternative to the "cold-shoulder" style.  The neckline could be scooped lower to be more flattering.  Performed my typical petite alterations across at 1" at the waist and 1/2" at the upper center back 




Maybe in the near future, I will give this pattern another try.  Surprisingly unlike my Burda tops from past experience, this top is "roomier" than form-fitting.   I highly recommend this top, especially for beginners.

Here were my other Burda tops i sewed late 2018 and in early 2019.  It seemed like yesterday. 

From January 2019, a knit top from Burda 6722.  I like the "bolero" style above the bodice. 

From November 2018, a faux wrap top from Burda 




Being a San Diego Padres Fan, 
I could not help but make my most recent face mask from licensed fabric.
 

The last baseball event we attended on September of last year at Petco Park to see the San Diego Padres

Cowl-i-Flowers and Birds!

I haven't sewn a garment since last May due to pursuing a major lifestyle change after being diagnosed with diabetes last May and also as overweight (I really was). 

After losing 22 lbs and 2 dress sizes, here I am, without holding my stomach in and wearing one of my "new" favorite tops, purchased at Kohl's.  I like the overall style with the "draped" neck, that I wanted to replicate it with McCall's 6963.  

 

I purchased this pattern again due to liking the draft of the cowl neck and thought I would it another try with a new size.  

McCall's 6963 is a “Close-fitting, pullover tops have draped front neckline variations (high or low cowl), narrow hem on back neckline and stitched hems.  A: armhole bands”.  I used a Misses: 8-10-12-14-16.  I sewed a "10" everywhere.  Originally I sewed a “12” at the shoulders, neckline, and armscyes tapering to a “14” elsewhere. 

Favorite, Not-So-Favorite :
My favorite features are the options for the two levels of drape and sleeve lengths (sleeveless, short sleeve, long sleeve).  My not-so-favorite feature is after my typical adjustments in my earlier version,  the top required more adjustments.  In other words, there was still extra fabric in the length that would work better with a longer torso.

Previous version from 2014:

At Radio City Music Hall, October 1, 2018.  Yes, my daughter is actually taller than me (less evident in the photo taken by my husband). 

This was staged....

Now, for my "birds and flowers" inspirations for the fabric I used in my new top.

From The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Wish we had more time to stay a few hours longer to see more of the interesting exhibits!)

"Mada Primavesi" by Gustav Klimt, 1912.

   

"Women with a Parrot" by Gustave Corbet (1866), "modesty" version.  

Fabric
I purchased this stretch cotton fabric from Hobby Lobby, being the first time I purchased fabric there.  I usually purchase on-line and on occasion at Yardage Town or JoAnn's.  It's very cheerful.  I guess my mind has been on "birds and flowers".  Maybe I was inspired by that famous Woodstock photo with the dove and the guitar or the photos of paintings that I just looked from our recent visit to New York City. 

Back of my top:

Directions:
The first 3 pages are devoted to  tissue-fitting  the pattern for the most common adjustments (at the marked alteration lines):  broad back, high round back, low round back, full bust, full hips, sway/flat back, forward shoulder, and full arms.  The sewing directions seem user- friendly like those found in a typical Kwik Sew pattern:  each step is supplied with a diagram.  For instance, in step #8, page 5,  “turn front self facing to outside along foldline (over back), matching notches.  Stitch entire shoulder seam…”,  is made more clear with the diagram showing the placement of the front facing with respect to the shoulder seam and the back neckline.


Modifications/Alterations :
For my new version, I performed my typical  1" petite adjustment at the waist and taking from the 1/2" center back.

For my second and third version,  while keeping  the draped neckline of this pattern intact, I redrafted the front and back pieces  using my already altered Sewaholic Renfrew for below the armscyes.

Conclusion:
Previous version: I like the draft of the neckline, but more alterations need to be done to achieve my desired fit.  The pattern is very helpful in terms of addressing and detailing common alterations.  I did not want to reinvent something if I have something that already works for me. 

Update November 11, 2018 : I wonder if McCall's redrafted the pattern.  I did not have to make a major overhaul as I did 4 years ago. 

By the way, we finally got the chance to visit Mood's Fabric in New York City a month ago.  If only we had more time.  But at least we were there!   Maybe next time...

 

Stripe Out with Kwik Sew 4189

I cut and sewed a top that took an entire evening last night.


Up until then the most recent garment I sewed, was my daughter's pants from Butterick 3460 (I added a lining beneath the slightly transparent woven) this past August.




 After her pants, I did not get a chance to complete my "summer sewing" wish list.  Now that I have this Thanksgiving week off,  I decided to squeeze in some sewing, starting with a top from Kwik Sew 4189.

"Fitted, pullover tops have angled waist seams on front and back with shaped bottom edges and full-length sleeves. A: narrow hemmed scooped neckline. B: Cowl neck collar. I sewed view "B", the one with the cowl neck" in a medium.

Instructions
The clear instructions accompanied with clear illustrated diagrams, being typical for a Kwik Sew pattern. The instructions for view "B" borrows heavily from view "A", except for the finish of the neckline.

Responses to Pattern
The "angled" or what I call "diagonal" waist seam was flattering and seemed to produce a "slimming" effect.

This was one easy gratification project. I was able to cut and sew this top in one entire evening. 

Fabric: A cotton knit jersey from Le Wal Marche or what my husband refers to as "Wally's" for $3.74 a yard.
 
Alterations/Modificatons
* Since I was working with a knit, I sewed ths sleeves in "flat", before sewing the sleeve and side seams. The instructions ask for the sewing the side seams and easing the sleeve into the armscyes.

*Performed my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waist

* Narrowed the upper center back 3/4" as well as the cowl neck piece from the fold line at the center. 

Pattern Revisitation/Recommendation:                                                      With the cooler temperatures approaching, I have another cowl neck planned with a more stable knit from my stash.

I definitely recommend not only for the simplicity of construction, but also for the distinctive flair added by the "angled" waist seam and the asymmetrical hem of the lower front and back. 

 

A VENUS dot com sweater with a cowl neck, but with no angled front and back seams

Armed and Thready with Kwik Sew 4207

"Mom, being trendy with the cold-shoulder look, huh?" "Might as well again!"
 My daughter was referring to a top I wore today from Kwik Sews 4207, that I purchased from the BMV website along with other goodies.

 
"Misses' Tops: Pullover tops have scoop neckline with neck binding and stitched hems. A: Patch pocket. B: Cold shoulder sleeve."   Sizing: Misses' XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed a "M".

The directions were clear and concise with each step accompanied by a diagram (typical of a Kwik Sew). There are also convenient sewing procedures to finish the edges of the garment as applicable to standard sewing machines and sergers. The sleeves are stitched flat before the side seams. Besides the user-friendly instructions, I like the flattering fit, scoop neckline, and the ease to sew the entire top.
 
I sewed view "B".  The 2-way knit jerseyfabric is a remnant of a long-sleeved top from New Look 6735.

 

It is essential to match the "dots" of the "capless" sleeve to the corresponding ones at the armscye endpoints to create the two similar "openings" at the upper arms. There is a 5/8" hem to be folded under for the armhole (lower edge for the attached sleeve and the upper portion where there is no sleeve) pressed and top-stitched, forgoing need bind the armhole with a strip of fabric as what I did in Simplicity 8337.

From youtube, here's a link for a tutorial for binding a knit neckline, by Fashion Behind The Seams.  This is the best tutorial of the slick method I have been using for years.
Useful, detailed tutorial to bind a neck neckline





Modifications/Alterations
* 3/4" petite waist adjustment
*Narrow the upper back 1/2"
* Due to fabric constraints (the fabric was a remnant from a previous top), I cut two back pieces to add a center-back seam.





Kwik Sew 4207 is nicely drafted.  It has a potential to be a reliable standard as a springboard for customization: "pattern hacking" to create a variety of styles.  I definitely plan to sew with this pattern again and already will be my "go-to" pattern for those quick sewing gratification moments. 

Thread-y To Sew Again!

So my last two posts here were on October 3, 2016 and January 2, 2016?  It is about time to return to the "machine".


To fill in the juncture from January to October 2016: 
 

June 2016: my husband, daughter and myself during a little walking tour in Högsby, Sweden (population: 1,881) where my in-laws reside.  Hmmm, traffic, what traffic, except the three of us!  Click, for a caption containing more information of our neighborhood hike.

 
  

I realized that in all the photos here (except for the top left that contains 4 photos put together of my daughter and my husband and the photo after a piece of paper), I wore what I had sewn:
                                                                                                                       
 
Photo recap of 2016:
I am clueless as to what algorithm "The Book of Face" uses to generate this collage of memories of 2016.  I wish that it included more photos from family outings.  I occasionally upload photos of adventures during our vacations, trips to the amusement parts, annual car shows, concerts, and educational venues.  Also there are family milestones, Jude Law fan pics, YouTube song flashbacks, and silly math puns.  You may send a friend request if you like and you don't have to worry about me "cluttering" your news feeds since I post sparingly. 



****Now, back to being SEW-spicious! *****

From last month, the merry month of May: 

This pattern has been my stash for some time now.  The only changes I made were lengthening the sleeves, my usual 3/4" petite adjustment at the waist.  I have been using what I now call the "stitch-the-strip-from-the-inside-and-turn-to-the-outside-and-top-stitch" method to bind the neckline, thanks to a fellow sewist (I don't think she has been on Pattern Review for years).  This method (plethora are available on-line) always works like a charm for me. 

 

I wore it the next day at work and received some sweet compliments from the students.

Summer Sewing Plan 2017:This bunch purchased from sales at the Butterick-McCall's-Vogue website (except for the Pamela top) with the BMV member discount.  The money saved is offset by the shipping charges. :-(

 

 Style inspiration: Daisy Fuentes wearing her top for HSN, $59.90.  The "cold-shoulder" or what I refer to as the "bare-upper-arm" style is TOTALLY trending (again). 

 

My first pattern from my summer plan, Simplicity 8337, in particular, view "B", with the cut-out sleeves. This pattern appears to have a myriad of possibilities!

I have sewn sleeves with "split" openings along the arms, but this is the first time to sew a "bare-the-upper-arm-look" ("cold-shoulder").  It only took one evening, despite my ineptitude with binding the sleeves. 

 

 

Modifications/Adjustments: 

•  "Rounded" the neckline ( "v" to a "U")
•   Eliminated the center seam so as not to "break" the print
•   My usual 3/4" petite adjustment at the waistline
•   Inadvertently "relaxed" the lower edge of the upper arm keyhole openings (upper edge of the attached sleeve). Somehow, silly me missed making the cuts at the "pivot" points at the sleeve/armhole junctions before attaching the binding strips cut from the same fabric. 
• Since the top seemed voluminous, I went down a size and took in an additional 3/8" at the sides (I could have simply used a "S" at the sides and a "M" at the shoulders).   The body measurements can give you a better idea of what size to use as a base.

 

If time permits to revisit this pattern, I would try the sleeveless, front-flounced top, view "A" . The style options are endless.  This is a simple pattern that could be customized with trim, varying sleeve lengths, neck depths, dress lengths, and more.  Nevertheless, this is a simple pattern.  However, I find that a "split-style" flatters me more than the drop-style of the sleeves of Simplicity 8337. 

A flashback from July 2012, a draped front top Butterick 5645, in which I closed the split-sleeve with a little seam at the lower edge, to create a "cut-out" shoulder style.

 


I like this bell-sleeved top from Vince Camuto, also available on HSN, for $89.00.