Gathered-Licious!

After the famous pop hit with this ending, all my mind has been too "icious"!

After seeing this top from Burda WOF's June 2008 issue, I had to make it!

I already made two versions of this asymmetical, gathered knit top!



I'm very happy with the results, despite some goofs along the way!


I call this "easy as 1-2-3" top my "Comedy of Errors". Unlike the other reviewers of this top, I made goofs that I could roll on the floor and giggle away! But then what makes life interesing is our unique experiences!


Pattern Description
"A T-shirt is just a T-shirt? No way! This style is a real highlight with its clever gathers and a mock wrap-over front!" My nickname for this knit top is "the asymmetrical knit top with gathering on the wearer's PREFERRED side." Something I learned about gathering on a certain side. If you have a certain preference, go with it! By the way the other front side is also gathered but at a lower section.


Size
Burda sizes 34-42. I sewed a "42".

Pattern pieces
Front (x1), left side front (x1), back on a fold (x1), sleeve (x2), front facing, on a fold (x1), back facing (x1). I borrowed a collar piece from a 70's Simplicity shirt pattern. I added 5/8" to the facings which seemed unusually narrow to me.

Likes
* Simple to construct once I was certain about the steps!
* Few pattern pieces to trace and cut
* Gathering at one side
* Versatile/adaptable


Dislikes
*Sparse directions
*The top seemed more asymmetrical on the front edge than what was represented on the technical drawing
*The neckline is lower and wider than I expected, but wait, this is a Burda WOF! So this should be expected!
*For my unusual figure type, the gathering/ruching works better for me if it were placed on my right-hand side, contrary to what's on the technical drawing!



Directions
Sparse but sufficient for those who have constructed shirts and tops before.

I'm one of those who could make more errors (due to taking things for granted!) on such an "easy" pattern as this one than those that are more advanced!


First version with Emma One Sock silky knit fabric
Maybe there was a subliminal reason why I cut two of the huge front piece and two of the left side front. I guess I have a force of habit of cutting two from a pattern piece. For the first step of construction, I gathered the left side of the front. Then I made a silly placement error of the left side piece to the front! The edges were so unaligned! My eyes somehow deceived me in the beginning because everything seemed to start off fine.

So instead of ripping apart the seams, I took my duplicate front piece which was the mirror image of the original and gathered the right hand side. So the top has gathers along the side opposite to what what was on Burda WOF. But it does not change the overall style anyway.


Second version with left over funky flowers jersey knit from my Vogue 8379 wrap dress.
I forgot to gather the lower right side of the top between the asterisks (oops, I forgot to mark them on the pattern piece!). Somehow I got away with it when I sewed both side seams of my first version. Then I could hum the Ms Spears' song, "Oop, I did it again!" with this second version! I realized that the back was obviously shorter than ther right hand seam. I know I cut the back piece correctly. Then I referred back to the technical drawings of the pattern pieces and realized that I was supposed to gather the right hand side of the front piece!

The directions are sufficient if you know the sewing basics. However, I skimmed over the directions, taking for granted, I knew what I was doing. Then,lo and behold, steps such as sewing the the seams of the front and back facing I thought were missing were written next to another step on the same square bullet!


Modifications

First version
* As mentioned earlier, I reversed the direction of the gathers.
* I added some elastic to bring up the wavy neckline. I should not have understitched because it loosened the neckline.

Second version
* I shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length due to shortage of material.
* I sewed in the sleeves flat instead of setting them in as directed.
* I added a collar for diversion from Burda's and decided to use the front and back facing.

After I tried on my second version with the gathering on the correct side (wearer's left-hand side). Then my inner voice said to me, "Hmmm. I told you so!" I noticed that since I am asymmetrical in the bust area (got more so as time goes on..), the gathering on my left-side emphasized it even more also causing the v point of the neckline to naturally shift in that area, causing more asymmetry! Having the gathers on my right hand side as in my first version provided some balance.


Conclusion
Despite some of my frustrations, I definitely recommend this top because it is really easy to put together! The styling is flattering to all figure types. I definitely recommend stabilizing the neckline with elastic instead of using the facing. I predict that this will be one of the "IT" tops for the season!

Digiticious

I just had to make another version of New Look 6621!



I got digitized, mathematized, integerized, you name it!

Reverse the digits!

Back of shirt


From my very first PR review, Heather's Numbers Dress from 2 years ago.



************************************************************************************
I cannot get enough of this pattern!
Back of shirt

From my very first PR review, Heather's Numbers Dress from 2 years ago.

I was inspired by Contrariwise's integer dress from the same fabric. I found the fabric on ebay for $8.50 a yard. Then I intensely searched the internet for this Alexander Henry "What's Your Number?" fabric. This is the first time I ever heard of this famous manufacturer for quilting cotton fabric. I did not have luck, but I found lots of groovy designs on several websites. So, I resorted to ebay and placed the next higher bid. I asked for more from the seller (5 yards!) and purchased 2 2/3 yards from what was remaining on the bolt. That's all she had left! It was better than nothing. I paid about $31 with tax and shipping.

Modifications
I sewed a "12" instead of a "14". I like the fit of the 12 better, especially in the bust area and more fitted in the hip area. I notice that the style of this shirt reminds me of Butterick 4985's, except that the Butterick has the front facing instead of the band.

If you have not seen this video, this is hilarious! Mathematicious!, set to the music of "Fergilious", which sounds like a rip-off of late 80's hit "Supersonic" by JJ Fad. A trip down memory lane for the late 80's/early 90's fans: Fergilicious, Supersonic comparison

The Floral Empire Shirt Strikes Back!

Having fun at the dressing room at Kohley's!




I just had to make this after receiving from the mail (PR sent this)!

More joyous modeling!


Close-up of this wild and groovy print! Yes, total flower power!


I hereby name this shirt, my "P & T" shirt because there's quite a bit of "pressing and topstitching"!


Pattern Description
I did not see any, but here's my best and brief one:
Fitted shirts with front princess-seamed panels, slight gathers below the bust, back darts, and collar and sleeve options. I sewed View B with the slightly 70's style collar and short puffy sleeves with banded edge.

Sizes
Misses' 6-16. I sewed a "14".


Suggested fabrics
Cotton and cotton blends, laundered cottons, poplin, sateen, lace, eyelet, silks, and stilk types, jacquards, laundered silks-rayons, batiste, voile, soft lightweight linen and linen blends.


Fabric I used
Printed cotton, 50% off at Jo Annie's. I used about 1 3/4 yard. The specs for View B mention 1 5/8 yard for a size 14 and 1 3/4 yard for a size 16.


Directions
Beyond mediocre! With all the great reviews of the pattern, I anticipated this! Every or nearly every step had easy-to-decipher illustrations. If you have made blouses/shirts before, the steps are straightforward.

I could not skim over the steps due to the order of construction differing from what I have been accustomed to. For instance, the hemming of the lower edge of the shirt preceded attaching the front band of the shirt whereas I am used to attaching the front facing of a shirt and hemming much later. I also noticed that the sleeve bands for the puffy short sleeves are attached before sewing the under arm sleeve seams.

It's been awhile since I attached a front band to a shirt (the last time was sewing my husband's Star Trek shirt). The directions and illustrations make it simple. Each front band is interfaced and sewn to its corresponding facing piece on the unnotched edges. The notched edges of each interfaced front band is sewn to the front edge of the shirt, right sides together. The band extends a little beyond the front lower hem as illustrated. The excess portion is opened up and folded right sides together and stitched 5/8" from the bottom edge or up to lower edge of the front of the shirt. After trimming the seam and folding the wrong side to the inside, the front band casing has a nice finish. The front band facings are pressed under and topstitched.

I really like the method of attaching the collar band to the neckline (while heeding the orientation of placement and the notches!) then followed by the collar and collar band facing. The seams are finished with more topstitching.


Likes
*Versatility such as the various sleeve and collar variations

*The princess seamed panels

*The back vertical darts

*The markings (dots, circles) and notches matched up pretty nicely

*The method to attach the collar band and collar


Dislikes
*Just as I read in the other reviews of this pattern, the upper chest area/upper bodice runs somewhat large. I could have used one size lower. The gathers below the bust area nearly reach my waistline.

*The neckline was a tad low for me (but not as famously low as many of those Burda shirts and blouses), but I could wear a camisole for modesty's sake.


Modifications
* I decreased the back darts width by 1/4"
* I used 5 buttons instead of 6.
* I plan to use a size 12 in the upper bodice


Would you recommend this pattern?
I definitely recommend this shirt for something fitted and flattering! Just be prepared for lots of pressing the raw edges under and topstitching! This is now my favorite princess seamed shirt and I plan to make another very soon! I would say this shirt took me one night to cut the pieces and interface the collar, collar band, and front band. Then another morning and afternoon for about 6 hours, which included doing other duties (probably less if I were a speedy sewist). It was a good thing to start off with some not-so-expensive fabric to determine sizing and fitting issues.

Conclusion
This is definitely a versatile and comfortable shirt!

CBS Rerun!

Oh no, another top with the "CBS Eyes" fabric! My fourth Jalie sweetheart neckline top! I made four version of this pattern four months ago.




Mini-me version:






My second version's neckline:




Oh no, another review of this pattern!

Next to chocolate chip cookies, I found a new addiction: Jalie's knit sweetheart top! Help!


I made four versions of this top 4 months ago. The one pictured is my fourth version and I could easily make my fifth in the near future!


Pattern Description:
"Top with sweetheart neckline, gathering at bust, neckline bands and choice of three-quarter or cap sleeve." I sewed not one, but four versions of View A, the top with the 3/4 sleeve!

Pattern Sizing:
27 sizes in one pattern! Wow! Instead of a "V" (37" bust), I sewed a "W" after reading the previous reviews regarding the fit.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, for the most part! I do agree that the neckline runs slightly lower than pictured on the model.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, after I worked with them before! The directions are printed on the folded pattern which was quite cumbersome. Again, I printed the #2794 directions from the Jalie website, stapled the pages and kept them handy.

This is the second Jalie pattern I worked with and I am used to their brevity in the descriptions of steps and satisfactory illustrations. The directions were organized in three sections:

1. Front
The steps consisted of stitching the center front elastic, attaching the front neck band, and easing the armholes of the front of the top.

There was the mark for the elastic placement which I missed the second time around! I found 9.2 cm, the recommended length of 1/4" wide elastic to be somewhat long for giving that "ruched" effect. I shortened the elastic by about 2 cm and was careful with the "stretch as you sew". For my first version, I used two pieces of elastic side by side because I was working with some really stretch mesh/knit! I noticed that my teal top had the nicest ruching. I had to really stretch the elastic for my third version to get it to even gather!

2. Yoke and back
The steps consisted of attaching the yokes (the bolero-like portions) to the back, attaching the neckbands along the edges of the yokes, right sides together. Again the illustrations helped. Jalie did not mention how to finish the center back of the neckbands (where they intersected). When I sewed my second and third versions, I joined the left and right neckbands, making about a 1/2" seam, which corresponded to the center back seam. Then I did not have problems "zig-zagging" the neckband to the neckline while lining up the front notches at the yoke

3. Assembly
The steps consisted of joining the front of the top to the back with the yokes, finishing the yoke/bolero bands, attaching the sleeves, and hemming the bottom

After reading the the vague "pin front to neckband seam allowances, matching notches", I was referred to the diagram that I looked at very carefully. The zigzagged portion of the neckband that was attached to the yoke is sewn to the armhole of the front of the top (right sides together, ease stitches adjusted so that notches coincide), which was easestitched in the the first section of the instructions.

However, the diagram was not clear on the location of the stitches joining front armhole to the band to the yoke/bolero piece. By instinct, I sewed them together about 1/4" from the edge of the front armhole. While working on my first version of the top, I looked ahead in the instructions and diagrams and noticed that ...a ha! The yoke/bolero bands, when pressed toward the center, will be topstitched which eventually cover those unsightly ease stitches!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the overall flattering fit of this top! The only thing is that the neckline is somewhat low, but maybe that was the intended design. The top requires as Deepika mentioned about 7/8 yard of fabric. As with working with any pattern for the first time, the only thing to dislike was encountering unfamiliar or unclear steps.

Fabric Used:
First version: meshy knit fabric, a leftover from my New Look 6729 Criss Cross top. Result: not great, but a wearable muslin.

Second version: teal fabric, a leftover from my Kwik Sew 70's knit shirt used for the bodice coupled with new fabric, smooth knit fabric with groovy circle print from Emma One Sock used for the bolero portion. Result: tight in the hip and waist area and I cut the neckband a little more than I should.

Third version: knit/spandex blend, leftover from my Simplicity 3682 knit top with drape front.

Fourth version: knit jersey, leftover from my Burda WOF tie blouse.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the top by about 1 1/2". For each top due to the variations in fabric, I fiddled with the elastic for the front center to get a decent ruching effect.

As an experiment, I reduced the gap in my second top (teal version) by shortening the neckband by about 1/2". As a result the yoke/bolero, moved towards the center thus decreasing the width of the sweetheart portion of the neckline!

I noticed that the necklines varied along with my fabric variations. The neckline of my first version has little ripples. The neckline of my third version was the most stable of the four tops.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I already sewed it four times! I plan to sew tops for other members of my family! Yes, I would definitely recommend this pattern! It does not require much time (especially after the first one, after you figure out some quirks) to cut and sew!

Conclusion:
I really liked this pattern and so far have been impressed with the Jalie fit and its current styles! This pattern provides the opportunity to use leftover fabric (reserved for those projects called the "I'll-make-something-from-these later" )to make something easy and wearable. Try this pattern and it could easily be your TNT with little or no alterations. You'll get hooked!

Mayberry Puffy and Twilly "D"!

The puffy sleeve jacket is making headwaves!
AGB's short sleeve jacket at Macy's for $72


Lafayette's New York Hollis Pinstripe at Nordy's for $468, huh?

This jacket was better than I had anticipated!


Smiling with my ray of sunshine!

Smiling in the garden!


Is the camera timer working?

Smiling in the bathroom!


Smiling in the kitchen!



Heather, I am not ready!



Pattern Description
"Semi-fitted jacket has collar, princess sams, shoulder pads, sleeve length variations and shaped hem; jackets A, B have pockets; jacket A has purchased trim; jacket B has sleeve band." I made jacket B, the one with the short and puffed sleeves with the sleeve band.

Size
Misses' 4-5-8-10-12. I sewed a "12".


Fabric
Suggested are mediumweight fabrics such as cotton, poplin, gabardine, linen blends, eyelet, patchwork.

I used a mediumweight denim with slight stretch at le Wal Marche. This fabric was easy to work with!


Directions
The directions are clear for sewists of any level who are familiar with basic sewing techniques: interfacing, bsting, gathering, easing a sleeve, hemming and so on. The illustrations speak for themselves.

Since the jacket is unlined, McCall's recommended that all raw edges of seam allowances be turned in 1/4" and stitched.

Since this jacket is unlined, there is a front facing and a back facing. The front facing is cut from the same pattern piece as the front of the jacket. I thought the back facing would make the back bulk from the back, but it pleasantly does not when worn. I decided not to omit the long vertical darts alongside the princess seams. They added some flattering shaping below the bust and still, I was so glad that I was able to button the jacket!


Likes/dislikes

Likes
* Princess seaming in the front and back of the jacket
* The long vertical darts started at the appropriate place below my bust, without any adjustments!
* The look of the wide (but not too wide!) shoulders and the short, puffed and banded sleeves which put more emphasis above the bust than below the bust.
* The elongated neckline and large lapels tapered by one button at the waist.
* Yeah! Finally I made a jacket of this style that fits! I have trouble with RTW to fit my short torso and curves!


Dislikes (although not too strong, just things that I noticed)
*I spent a little more time to get the collar to align properly, maybe because of the nature of the fabric. I wanted to ensure that the size of the notches match up after I turn the collar and facings in.

*There was quite a but of easing of the sleeves into the armscyes and the bottom edge of the band. While attaching the band over the right side of the sleeve's lower edge, I intermittently tugged at the threads to get the edge to line up with the band at the seam and notches. I noticed that sleeves on the pattern envelope were slightly less puffy than mine!

*It probably would have been easier to just line the entire jacket so as not to worry about hemming! After I turned the facings inside, I noticed that there was not enough of the bottom edge to turn up, forming the 1 1/4" hem per the instructions! I had allowance for only a 1/2" hem. There was no mention of machine stitching the hem. I handstitched the hem for a couture finish (McCall's mentions "blindstitching the front facing to side front seam and across hem".

Modifications
I opted for two buttons, instead of one as pictured on the envelope, to close the front of the jacket

I omitted the shoulder pads (I cannot wear shoulder pads with my frame) and took in slightly the armscyes.



Would you recommend this pattern? Would you sew it again?
Yes, I would because it is a great spring/summer or a transitional jacket between seasons. For those who are of average height and above, I would definitely recommend adjusting the length. You could easily adjust the pattern if you choose not to wear shoulder pads. The option for long and short sleeves make this piece very versatile for one's wardrobe. This jacket has a classic style that you could wear year after year! I would probably make another one in another color.

This jacket passed the "mom knows best" test. Heather and I visited her yesterday. I wore this jacket and my Vogue 8456 pants of the same fabric. "Another nice new outfit, where did you get it?" By the way, my mom's favorite store is Macy's.

Conclusion
This is one of my new favorite jacket patterns that really would flatter any figure type!

Sew Those Funky Flowers Right On!

The 70's wrap dress back in full swing!





Give Vogue pattern credit for creating a pattern that brings back the unforgettable look!








The last time I recall wearing a wrap dress was in the early-mid 80's! Gone are those "Charlotte Russe" and "5-7-9" shopping days! I have been hesitant about wearing one until I became inspired by the rave reviews of this pattern.

This Vogue 8379 dress with some Diane VF stylin' got me into this goofy 70's/80's dance groove.

Pattern Description
"Come on, VOGUE...let your sewing move to the music..."

MISSES’ DRESS: Wrap front dress has soft pleats, side tie, and sleeve variations. Dress B has collar.


Size
8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12"

Fabric
Jersey knit with funky flowers from Gorgeous Fabrics.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, for the most part.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
"Night fever, night fever. We know how to show it. Gimme that night fever, night fever. We know how to SEW it.

Yes and as usual they were accompanied by suitable illustrations. I anticipated that the cutting would take time (whoa! two pieces of the skirt front and one of the back which seemed like nearly an infinity to cut!). I made sure I carefully marked all the dots and notches.

I decided to use the neck interfacing as directed and the neckline turned out better than expected! There was a tad of a tendency for the interfacing to "peek" out at one small section of the neckline, but overall the neckline came out nicely and not puckered or loose!

Attaching the skirt to the pleated upper bodice was somewhat tricky. I feared making a silly goof that would make the final dress look strange when worn. The skirt is folded on the front edges, thus forming a self-facing. I have to admit the diagram was not enough to figure out how to attach the front edge of the bodice to the front edge of the skirt, especially with the tie already attached to the bodice! I stared at the dress I was holding and the diagram back and forth and back at the diagram for awhile and said hmmmmm. The lower edge of the bodice facing was turned so that the right sides were together along the seam of the skirt's front facing as the construction was seen from the inside of the dress. Then once I pulled up the bodice, I could easily turn the bodice facing "in" so that the tie comes out to the front. You can figure this out once "you get into the groove" of sewing the dress!

Oops! I forgot to sew the sleeves in flat since I was trying to follow the directions to a t! Yes, I sewed the the front and back of the bodice at the sides and did not feel like undoing the stitches. I eased-stitched and set-in the sleeves and ended up cutting about a 1/2" at the top tapering off to the sides.


What did you like or dislike about the pattern?
That's the way, uh huh, uh huh, I LIKE it!

* I like this particular wrap style that flatters any figure, especially for those with short torsos and some hips as myself!

* I like the collar and sleeve style which makes the dress so similar to DVF's famous 70's wrap dress.

* Although this pattern is labeled "Very Easy" in terms of the use of basic construction methods, I admit it was time consuming for me and more so due to this being my first got to be REAL wrap dress! (I'll sew MORE, MORE, MORE!). I've sewn wrap tops, but for me a dress that really wraps around seemed like another experience. I spent one afternoon cutting the pieces and of course, there was a lot of stitching that occupied my two free evenings (not entire evenings), especially at the hem of the skirt!

* There is nothing much to dislike, except for one of my cuff notches, which ended up having a slight "U" instead of a "V" curve most likely due to not being careful with my "break" stitch at the circle before turning the cuff band right side out!


Modifications/alterations
"Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes Ch-ch-changes...."

I took out a few inches from the bottom edge so that the hem lands on my kneecap. Other than that, I really like the fit and the look! When I wore this dress at a family reunion, my mom who would be more suitable for a position of critiquing who is wearing what on the red carpet asked me if I lost 10-15 lbs (actually 3-5 lbs)! To have my mom say that, especially when her build is different from mine (possessing a slightly taller and more proportioned figure which her granddaughter inherited) is a wonderful compliment. This goes to convey that the dress does work WONDERS!

Conclusion
I highly recommend this dress! It was really worth putting in the time and effort to create something that makes me want to put on my red shoes (I am motivated to buy a pair) and dance to David Bowie's "Let's Dance!"

"We just sewed something tonight. Let's CELEBRATE, it's alright!"

I Heard It Through the Grape Lines, Curves, and Flounces!






Pattern Description
From Burda:
"Shimmering emerald silk satin, a raised waist seam and fluttering tied flounces – this blouse porivides a perfect example of the new feminine Safari Style. Narrow épaulettes (shoulder tabs) and cuffs add sporty counterpoints."

Sing to the music and "The Beat Goes On"...

Chorus
And the flounces go round, the tiers go on
Needles keep pounding a rhythm to the plate,
La de da de de, la de da de da

The bodice posed no outrage, uh huh
Flouncing has turned the page, uh huh
Edging became the thing uh huh
Needle bopping became the king uh huh

Size
34-36-38-40-42.


Fabric
'Peter Max' style mod purple silk (100%) charmeuse from Emma One Sock


Pattern pieces
Front (x2), front band with self-facing (x2), back on fold (x1), flounce (1 pattern piece that is later separated on the cutting layout: upper, middle, and bottom flounce (x2 for each flounce), sleeve (x2), collar on a fold (x2). Shaded regions on layout are reserved for interfacing.

Directions
They were typical Burda lingo. I thought that the bodice went fairly easily (stitch shoulder seams, stitch front and back darts, stitch front bands (look like front facings to me) to the front edges, and creating the collar. The buttonholes were done before the flounces and sleeves. Seam numbers are included in the diagram of the pattern layout which came in handy when putting the pieces together.

But..... the flounces are another story. I was surprised that something really simple turned out to be complicated when done, when actually it was my fault for having that "piece of cake" attitude and not taking more time (which I already have) to really go over the cutting layout because I was so caught up in going over the directions word for word! It all started when not having the common sense to visualize which the upper, middle and lower flounces altogether! The cutting layout really did not help any because the flounces were not labeled adequately, just piece #4, flounce, which were cut on the bias! What happened was that I cut three flounces of the same width, with different lengths, instead of noticeably increasing widths (not very evident in the cutting layout) and different lengths! I was even careful to cut the other half of each flounce by inverting the pattern piece!

After finishing the blouse, I realized that the bottom flounce was the original pattern piece left uncut and the others were cut on the lines provided, being that the middle flounce was larger than the upper flounce.

Anyway, the assembly of the flounces seemed very vague or could have been rewritten. "On the middle and top flounces, turn the left opening alowances to the inside, baste at the top. Lay the middle flounce on the bottom flounce, wrong side to right, the top flounce on the middle flounce, wrong side to right, the top flounce on the middle flounce. Baste top edges together. Leave the opening allowances of the bottom flounce free. Stitch flounces to the bottom edges of front and back..." Huh? A little diagram would have helped here. So it's really easy to just to give up and put the top aside. I then realized that I cut the flounces incorrectly and do not have enough material to redo them! Arghhhh!

It would have helped it Burda put it this way and include an illustration:
Align the top edges of the flounces so that the that the right sides are showing for all pieces and the largest piece is the bottom layer with the smallest piece the upper flounce, giving a tiered effect. Maybe using too many words did not work after all in the flounce section!

Likes/Dislikes
*I like the upper bodice and sleeves.

*A serger would be handy to edge the flounces!

* The three tier flounces were not what I had hoped for. I stopped after the second tier of flounces.

* This top simply did not work for my figure type! I should have followed my initial instinct to do away with the flounces and lengthen the bodice!

Modifications
* The length of the upper bodice was fine, although I preferred it a tad longer. For those with longer torsos, plan to adjust the length accordingly.

* Omitted the size zipper. There was a "helpful hint" section on adding zippers. I also opted for size snaps. Since, I was able to slip the top over my head I sewed up the left side seam originally reserved for the zipper.

* I resorted to "doing my own thing" and attaching the middle layer (folded upper edge) to the already edged top flounce layer. I did not continue with the third flounce.

* I skipped the shoulder tabs and buttons. They would have been easy to add, but I thought they would look better on unprinted fabric.

* I added a front tie.


Conclusion
This is actually a fairly easy top if I had not assumed as I do when working with any of the big 4 patterms! Burda really tested the type of thinkers and learners we are: global vs. analytical. I over analyzed before getting the whole picture!

If I ever do sew this pattern again, I would skip the flounces and redraft a slightly aline lower bodice. Otherwise, this top is easy to construct and to modify.

I'll reserve the flounces for skirts or for the lower edges of dresses!

This blouse did not work for me, but would certainly work for another! ;-}

Raven and Clover, Over and Over!


Once I saw the jacket from the Vogue Patterns website, I just had to get and make this!




Once I saw this Vogue 8491 pattern from the Vogue Patterns online site, I picked it up from the most recent JoAnn's sale! Lesson learned: Better to buy a few cool styles from a Vogue pattern sale online for a few dollars extra per pattern than spending much more than expected at JA's!


Pattern Description
"Misses/Misses' petite jacket, belt and dress: Semi-fitted, lined jacket with above elbow length sleeves, button closing and belt. Close-fitting, sleeveless, lined dress with darts, back zipper and slit opening." I made the jacket.


Size
Size 8-10-12. I really hoped to find the envelope with the next sizes up! Either somebody beat me to it or there were others that were misfiled! I took a leap of faith and cut out a 12. Semi-fitted as described? Vogue misled me and should have printed semi loose or about semi tent! Fortunately the belt pulled the jacket's look together.


Fabric
Cotton with slight stretch from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Dress with clover power!


Reactions to Pattern

* The front princess seams went together fine and constructing the raglan style sleeves were a pleasant reprieve from easing and setting in sleeves!

* I really like the belted look of this jacket and slightly bell sleeves. This is quite a change of scenery from the "poofy" sleeve top that I constructed recently.

* I liked the length of the jacket on me. I did not have to make any adjustments.

* I am still sort of in a quandary about the large lapels and the collarless neck maybe because I'm accustomed to wearing the "blazer" look: neck collar and lapel.

* I think Vogue mislabled the sewing level! I agree with the adjective easy, maybe because there are no sleeves to ease and set in the armscye and collar to assemble, but words "time consuming" should be included!

* Whoa, the jacket is more roomy than expected, even when I went down by a size! Fortunately there is a belt to cinch the waistline.



Directions

They were brief, to the point, and easy to follow. The illustrations were alongside the steps which were very helpful and speak for themselves. I found it helpful to mark on the wrong side of the fabric ("SLF", "SLB"), or put a colored dot stickie to distinguish among the FRONT and BACK sleeves pieces (their silhouettes look identical, except for the notches, if I had cut them well enough!). The directions assumed the that you know how to do basic techniques. For instance, Vogue assumes you know how to make buttonholes and slipstitch. Clipping curves at the princess seams is probably assumed that the sewist knows also since it was not mentioned.

Constructing lining starts with sewing the fabric facings with the side fronts and the rest is constructed the way as in the original jacket. Then the lining is placed right sides together with the original jacket and sewn at the outer edges, leaving a large enough gap at the lower hem to turn the jacket inside out, which I call the "quick and dirty" way to line a jacket. I would rather "bag" the lining for a more smoother finish especially at the bottom hem, where the lining tends to "peek" out, which I temporarily resolved with my handy dandy iron and tacking stitches.


Modifications
* I added another 1 1/2" to the belt length.
* I raised the lower button placement so that it is above the wrap around area.
* Since I was working with a print, I did my best to match the left and right fronts. I can see why I would next time add myself to the list of people who dread working with prints because of taking the time to align the prints of pieces sewn together to achieve fashion symmetry. Coincidentally, the top button placement nearly coincided with a certain part of the print that would look aesthetically and geometrically ideal, (buttonholes, buttons placed inside a printed shape instead of "on" its edges)


Conclusion
Very easy??? I recommend that the big 4 (even Burda does this!) come up with a category for "easy, but time consuming"! I do recommend this pattern because it is really straightforward to sew and for its distinctive styling, but for now one of these will do for me now! I plan to make the dress sometime soon.

McCall Me Mellow Yellow!

I just completed my vibrant version of McCall's ruffled shirt!


Ruffles are "in"!









Yeah! I finally completed my blouse for the fitted blouse contest on PR!

Maybe it is not as top notch as the other entries, but at least I gave myself credit for working on a blouse with 6 panels below the upper bodice, a ruffled front, a shaped lower hem, and cuffed balloon sleeves! I do not have the fitting expertise as many members do. That's just something that comes with more time, willingness, and patience. Also it would be hard to "figure" out consistent alterations, if I choose to alter my figure by losing weight.

I was hesitant to enter this in the fitted blouse contest because of the silly goofs I made in this blouse with $16/yd fabric, but I thought I would motivate myself and get it completed anyway. I think of the contests as motivation to do something I have not done in awhile or have never done. I was so unsuccessful with a blouse that consisted of several lower panels (Butterick 4985) that I mustered up the courage to try this McCall's from my stash.

This is labeled "4 One easy pattern", which is misleading because McCall's has easier patterns that are not labeled as such. I would label this as "easy, but somewhat time consuming."

Just when I pulled out this pattern, I see a number of ruffled tops online!
Ruffled front top by Pink Tartan at Nordy's

MARC by Marc Jacobs Ruffled Bib Tank


Pattern Description
"Shirts have front gathers, princess seams with topstitching, front bands, collar (stand up or pointy collar with collar band) and sleeve options) and sleeve variations (bubble, gathered with cuffs, pleated with cuffs)....." I sewed view B that has the ruffled front, gathered sleeves with cuffs, and the collar with the collar band.

Size
Misses' 12-14-16-18-20 with separate pieces for A/B, C, D cup sizes. I sewed a 14, cup C.

Fabric
From EmmaOneSock, a Dolce and Gabbana fun flowery print in cotton. "From Dolce & Gabbana, made in Italy, this is an exquisite cotton lawn with a lovely floral in brighter and softer yellow, a sprinkling of muted orange, with outlines in greenish-black."

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except my sleeves billowed out more!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes and the illustrations helped. However, there was an error on my pattern piece #5, which was labeled lower back which should be lower "front." It was easy to discover this from the layout and the directions. I am uncertain as to whether McCall's corrected this in subsequent versions.

It's been awhile since I have sewed a blouse with these many pieces! They were the upper front (x2) and upper back bodice (x1), lower front (x2), lower side front (x2), lower side back (x2),lower center back (x1), front band (x2), ruffle (x2), sleeve (x2), sleeve cuffs (x2), collar (x2), collar band (x2). I interfaced the bands, the sleeve cuffs, one piece of the collar band and both of the collar pieces (instead of just one to add more stability) with a lightweight fusible. Although the cutting took some time, the pieces fit together nicely as they were sewed in each step.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Overall, I like the princess seams and the ruffled front.

This is the first top I made that more closely resembles a tuxedo shirt due to the ruffles in the front which were very easy to make. One end of each ruffle is gathered and the other has a narrow hem. Each front band is then attached along raw edges of the ruffle and front edge of the shirt, right sides together and turned in prior to topstitching or hand sewing.

I like the options for cup sizing. I sewed a "C" to be on safe side, although one side of me is a "B".

I like the simple collar/collar band construction. I have to constantly remind myself that the collar is inserted between the two collar band pieces prior to stitching them together since I am used to collars without the band. except it seems a tad larger than what I expected. McCall's seems to draft collars larger than what are on the pattern envelopes, from my experience with current patterns and patterns from several years ago.

Whoa, talk about sleeves that made me think I could fly in the air! The ones illustrated on the envelope suggest otherwise. If I ever sew another version of this blouse I would decrease the circumference of the sleeves. They add a certain character to the blouse, but I'll just have one version.

Escada top with puffy sleeves, but not as puffy as mine!


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I found it strange that there was a 12/14 size on each lower piece! I added 1/8" seam allowance to each lower panel of the shirt and the side seams because I did not want to take away too much from the ruching/gathering below the bustline. This helped somewhat, and of course silly me, was remiss in placing the needle on the front band resulted in stitching the first buttonhole off-center and so, instead of ripping out stitches, I stitched the other four buttonholes in the same way. Maybe I did this subliminally thus increasing the width of each front band by 1/2", making the blouse less snug. I would have preferred to make other modifications, but I do not want to spend more time on already a multi-pieced lower bodice.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe one more in a few months or so. This as an easy pattern which I would recommend to sewists who have experience with collared and button-down shirts. I found this top straighforward to make, but somewhat time consuming (one evening and one afternoon of sewing time).


Conclusion:
This is a stylish and versatile shirt with collar and sleeve variations.

You're on CBS!





Technical drawing of blouse:






First version:
"You Spin Me round, round, round like a record, baby!





Second version:
"You're on CBS!"




First version

Technical drawing of blouse

Anne Klein blouse with front tie and printed circles

Pattern Description
Tie front blouse with ruching in the center front by the tie and long sleeves

The "Duh" Burda Code
Hip, hip, hooray! I finally sewed my first official Burda WOF pattern! It was probably the easiest pattern from the September 2007 issue. I enjoyed reading the reviews and seeing the projects from the PRers who previously reviewed this pattern.

Although I sewed with Burda commercial patterns before, the Burda WOF patterns do not come with illustrations besides the technical drawings and layouts. The sparse directions can contribute to the "duh?" and then the "aha!" moments. I am at the start of my learning curve to master the Burda code!

Being E"spatial"y Patient
I was confused for the first time looking at the pattern layouts! Various types of lines (dotted, solid, alternating circles/dashes, etc) are overlapping each other all over the large sheet! The colored numbers at the top and bottom margins line up with the corresponding numbers that refer to the specific pattern pieces that are printed somewhere alongside them. This reminds me of an interesting form of mapreading without the gridlines!

I purchased three Burda Moden pattern magazines from the 60's and 70's and they are so much more convoluted (like colored pick up sticks strewn all over the place!!) than the current patterns! The vintage Burda magazine patterns layout have more pattern reference numbers on the margins, more color coded markings (beyond the dotted, solid, i.e. wavy) and so many patterns overlapping, enough to cause severe eyestrain!


Paper or Plastic?
For those desperately finding an alternative to tracing paper (I had some at one time at home). I finally figured out a use for those ever growing number of white plastic grocery/shopping bags (Vons, Ralphs, Target, etc) stashed in my kitchen somewhere. Yup, you guessed it, the cheap, but "green" alternative to tracing paper! Wow, I could easily see and trace the lines beneath a bag! I snipped the bags to have them lie flat, cutting across the creases and traced what I can with a black sharpie pen over the pattern outlines. Then if the tracing surpasses the piece of plastic, I tape on another piece, continuing where I left off. What's nice is that the plastic clings nicely to the fabric while cutting! I even used a huge K-B toystore bag to trace out a pattern piece for the front of a coat!

Sizing
Multi-sized 36-46. I sewed a 42, according to my measurements. Although I forgot to add the seam allowances, it blouse fits fine.

Fabric
Both versions are nice jersey knits from Gorgeous Fabrics. The "CBS network" looking fabric appears to be sold out.

Directions
They consisted of very brief and vague statements (i.e. Stitch shoulder seams...)I was perplexed by unclear directions on how to attach and finish the collar ties. A diagram would help immensely because I was not clear as to how Burda wanted the tie collar attached to the neck. Burda's verbage: "Stitch collar to the neck, leaving the tie bands free from tne marking. Fold collar lengthways, right side in, leaving the tie bands free from the marking. Stitch tie band edges together. Trim seam allowances, cut corners off. Turn and press ties. Press joining seam on the collar. Turn in inner collar edge and sew to the joining seam. " Questions that popped in my mind, "Tie bands, or the ends of the collar meant for tying or making a cute bow?....Sew to the joining seam?...." If Heather had her digital camera, she would have savored the opportunity to capture my "duh, what in the world?" expression! I had to ponder carefully what I was going to do next.

My interpretation:
After sewing the collar to the neckline while making sure that the collar tie's center seam aligned with the center back of the top, I folded each of the tie ends, right sides together and stitched the seam from the front center of the blouse (where the neckline ruching starts) to the ends of the ties and turned the ties inside out. Then I folded the collar inward, with the raw edge tucked underneath, and stitched close to the edge so that on the outside the stitching would appear very close to the seamline where the collar and neckline meet. I wonder if there is an existence of the phrase "instinctual sewing."

Likes, dislikes
*I like the style with the tie front, a modern day interpretation of secretarial blouse.
*Easy to construct
*Pattern consists of only four pattern pieces: front, back, sleeve, and tie collar!
*I forgot to add the side seam allowances and to lengthen the sleeves by 1" for my arms! But I was glad that I omitted the side seam allowances because the blouse is still somewhat roomy.
*The neckline came lower than expected. Fortunately I could bring the neckline up a little by pulling and tightening the ties. If I make this again, I'll raise the neckline another 1/2".

Modifications
* I sewed the sleeves in flat. Why set in sleeves for knits?
* It seems as if there was a lot ease in the top of the sleeves. I trimmed 3/4" from the top edge, tapering to the sides.
* I added 1 1/2" to the length of the sleeves for the second version after forgetting to do it to the first version.


Conclusion
The gathering in the front is a nice feature of this blouse and overall this blouse would flatter all figure types! So far, I have been impressed with Burda commercial patterns due to that distinctive and flattering fit that I could not acquire from the Big 4 and it seems like Burda WOF would be no exception. If you can get ahold of this September 2007 issue (lots of great stuff!), I definitely recommend making this blouse as a first Burda WOF project or as a very versatile and trendy top!