Marfy-ficial Intelligence



I just received this Italian import from the mail, and just had to make it right away (consider it a belated b'day present to myself). I needed a new challenge: my first Marfy! I already find Burda WOF directions, in general, to be cryptic and vague. Maybe after sewing a Marfy, I will see Burda WOF in a whole new light!


Scroll down for review of original version



First version with wild fabric



One of my inspirations for my second version:
Spiegel's ruffled collar blazer




This is my second version of this Marfy which I hereby name, my Sparfy jacket!
Sparfy = Spiegel+Marfy



Collar with flash lighting


Pattern Description
"This short, form-fitting jacket has an original collar set to the side and overstitched several times to create a flower petal effect. It has 3/4 sleeves and is closed with large buttons. Suggested fabric: shantung, crepe, satin, taffetas. Approximate fabric required 1.6 meters (1,40cm wide)"

Size
Pattern was precut to a size 46. Here's the Marfy's size chart

After not being happy with my first version due to being "under-fitted" to my form (I only liked the fabric), I decided that the pattern was not for me after all.

Then, the unexpected happen the following day. I found a draped ruffle blazer/jacket in one of my recent Spiegel catalogs while my mind was continuously hearing Steve Perry's amazing vocals on "Don't Stop Believing". I liked the simpler style of the Spiegel jacket, doing away with the princess seams. Then, nostalgia set in and I found Steve Perry performing with Journey in his glory days on youtube.com. Wow! For some unknown reason, I became inspired to give this pattern another try, but this time by redrafting every piece! Maybe, if he ever hears my heart-wrenching or "seam-ripping" story, he will return to Journey (the new lead singer is also extraordinary, but I prefer the original), miraculously get back his distinctively fabulous singing voice, and perform again. Imagine Stevey making a comeback and saying, "To all of you ladies, I dedicate this to you, 'Who's Sewing Now?'" Still I am trying to find the logic and relevance between an iconic 80's rock idol and sewing....

Modifications after the first version
*I used a navy double knit I purchased from Lucysfabrics.com. This fabric sewed like a dream! Yay no fray!
*Eliminated the princess seams and redrafted the front and back of blouse, while adding seam allowances


*Drafted the front facing using my new front piece

My new front facing piece.

*Raised the neckline 2"
*Extended the front edge 1"
*Drafted a back facing
*To prevent bulk, especially at the back of the neck, I omitted the overcollar.
*I folded the lower raw edge of the remaining collar and stitched a scant hem.
*Added 1" to the length
*Slip-stitched or hand stitched the hem after making a 1/8" little hem at the raw edge
*Added large circular op-art buttons, taking a cue from Michael Kors' current jackets with eyepoppingly large buttons.
*Added snap closures

Conclusion
I recommend this pattern if you like Marfy or want to try it for the first time, but beware of the exceedingly low neckline! From the look of top of the sleeves, Marfy probably intended for this jacket to have little shoulder pads, which I omitted. My amateur redraft of this pattern will serve as a basis for creating shirts/blouses with a tad more tweaking. I wish that I could be more ecstatic about my new jacket! But at least I can breathe better while wearing it!

Now, I know why I gave this pattern another try. Maybe subconsciously I imagined myself as a screaming fan wanting so much to redraft a new shirt for Steve Perry to replace that hideously wild yellow shirt he wore that time. I'll give him credit for the boleros and crop jackets which are still in style.

Some equations that I discovered:
Sparfy jacket = Spiegel-inspired + Marfy jacket
SParfy jacket = Steve Perry-inspired + Marfy jacket



I am still looking for the logic in this!


* *
Original unposted review

"Counter-fit" original

Pattern Description
"This short, form-fitting jacket has an original collar set to the side and overstitched several times to create a flower petal effect. It has 3/4 sleeves and is closed with large buttons. Suggested fabric: shantung, crepe, satin, taffetas. Approximate fabric required 1.6 meters (1,40cm wide)"

Size
Pattern was precut to a size 46. Here's the Marfy's size chart

Fabric
"Metro Retro Charmeuse - Black/Pink/Yellow" from Gorgeous Fabrics. It seems to have a poly/silk blend. I like the print and the texture, but sewing with it posed challenges. To prevent seams from further unravelling, I edgestitched them.




Favorite Features
* Princess seams in the front and back
* Ruffled neck collar
* Form fitting silhouette
* Pre-cut! Wow!
* Lettered seams
* I must confess, I like puzzles. I think of this project that requires some form of logic to make the pattern pieces fit!

Challenges
* No written directions. I only had the illustration that I printed from the McCall's website to refer to.
* Runs a bit snug
* Attaching the ruffled collar
* I experiened thread tension problems on two of the princess seams, hence leaving it with a slightly "ruched" effect. I gave up the option of re-doing for fear that I would ruin the fabtic.
* Missing back facing. I could not find one in the mailer. I figured out that the ruffles did not have a center seam, and I was debating whether or not to draft a back facing piece with each end to be attached to the ends of each collar piece.
* Getting the collar to drape as illustrated. Of course, the collar had difficulty draping due to being composed of an under, over collar, and fusible interfacing, which I should have skipped!
* Neckline came much lower than illustration
* Somewhat uncoooperative fabric
* Back armscye was large for the back sleeve cap. Operator error could be the culprit!


Directions
Marfy patterns do not have directions. If you have constructed shirts and/or jackets with princess seams, then you can use the order of construction with which you are familiar.

*I added a 5/8" seam allowance to each pattern piece. Marfy patterns do not include seam allownces.
*I cut out and ironed on fusible interfacing to the over and under collar pieces and the front facings
*I staystitched the front and back pieces at their princess seams.
*Sew side front to front (left and right)
*Sew center seam of back
*Sew side back to back (left and right)
*Sew shoulder seams. I stabilized them with a piece of bias.
*Sew side seams
*I sewed each under collar (ruffle type) piece to the over collar piece. Hmmm, somehow I had to trim a corner of an over collar that seemed unusually large. I attribute it to most likely cutting inacurately, forgetting a seam allowance somewhere?
*Topstitch the edges of the collar
*Attach left and right collars starting from the front edge and with each ending past the shoulder seam.
*Attach the front facings, tapering to the bottom rounded edge, prior to hemming the entire lower edge of the blouse
*Understitch the facings
*Finish the back neckline with bias trim
*Attach the buttons
*Ease the sleeve caps, sew sleeve seams, hem the sleeves.
*Baste and sew sleeves to the armscyes, paying attention to the include the finished edges of front facings coincide with the sleeve/armscye seams. I had to redo the sleeves due to the bunching caused by not pressing the edges of the front facings well enough.
*Hem the lower edge


Modifications
* Due to the somewhat delicate and ravelly nature of the fabric, I attached 5 button loops along the right front edge.
* Replaced 3 large buttons with 5 small hook-type buttons
* Took in the side seams below the armscye so that the sleeve cap could align a little better with the back of the armscye
* Added bias trim to finish the back neckline and the back ends of the over collar.

Conclusion
I recommend this pattern if you have experience in making shirts/jackets with princess seams. The construction is simple, but can be tricky and may be somewhat time consuming when done for the first time. My only reservations are the collar construction and the very low neckline (which can be remedied by wearing a camisole underneath).

If I do make this again with more time to spare, I would raise the neckline, draft a transition piece or a back facing to be attached to each front facing, and rework the sleeve cap and back armscye so that they better align with each other (strong possiblity that it is operator error.) I spent an inordinate amount time fussing over the slightly bulky collar with the front facing while dealing with ravelly nature of the fabric. It probably would have been handy to have a tube of fray block!

Despite some minor stalls and steep climbs, I still enjoyed my first Marfy roller coaster ride. Return visit? Maybe!




I like it better unbuttoned for a carefree look!

Playing with the Seam of Hearts

Finally, it's sewn!






My rating: Great pattern, but needs further modifications to better suit me.

The cut fabric from this pattern have been sitting around for exactly two weeks now! I thought I sew this before it becomes a UFO!




Pattern Description
"Graphic retro-prints on feminine garments are great fashion! This batiste blouse sports a peplum and short, puffed sleeves as well as true-to-style self-fabric button loops and pretty little buttons."

Sizes
Burda sizes 34-42. I sewed a "40". I could have gone down a size or reduce the seam allowances for a more fitted style. But it's better to be safe than sorry!

Fabric used
A stretch woven cotton from Gorgeous Things.

Favorite Features
*The hooped buttonholes
*The wide peplum that does not overwhelm or flare out so much
*The puffed sleeves with the banded bottom
*The front yoke
*No interfacing needed, but optional depending on the fabric


Other Features
*Bias finished neckline
*Underlap at left front for button
*Top gathered above peplum, giving a blouson or billowy look, which I have mixed feelings about.
*Not obvious in the technical drawing, is a peek-a-boo opening (a design feature which I prefer to skip)on the bottom front edge.


Pattern Pieces to Cut
Traced pieces
front, front facing, front yoke, front peplum, back (on a fold), back peplum (on a fold) and sleeve


Rectangular pieces with given lengths and widths that you measure and cut directly from fabric
left fastening underlap, bias strip, 2 bias binding strips for lower edges of sleeves and a bias strip for the neckline.


Directions
Surprisingly somewhat more detailed and understandable than the usual cryptic Burda WOF. However, throughout the entire construction process I used my "stop, think, re-read, and visualize" method before hitting the pedal! Things like finishing the edges of facings are not mentioned.

Hang on Loop-Y
The first step started with creating the button loops. If I have never created these before, I would have been lost from the start. I used 14" length of fabric instead of 12", still keeping the 1 1/4" or 3 cm width, to ensure that my loops accommodate my 5/8" diameter buttons. Instead of using a darning needle to turn the string of fabric right side out, I used a safety pin. Then I divided the length by 6, cutting 6 little tubes each having a length of 2 1/3". Wow, sewing and math certainly go hand in hand! Then I folded each piece into a "U" and attached the 6 "U"s to the wearer's right front edge, so that the raw edges of the "U"s lie along the edge and the "U" curve faces away from the center.





Here's the wearer's right front with button loops and the front facing attached over the front edge, right sides together.


The Underlap of Luxury
Then the next set of instructions pertained to attaching the wearer's left underlap and the front facings. After stopping and visualizing for some time about what I read in the bulleted section, it became clear to me.


Here's the left underlap with the front facing attached over it . The left underlap was made by rectangular piece sewn at the edges, right sides together and turned outward.




Here's the wearer's right side and left side of the blouse before I attached the yokes. As seen in the this photo and mentioned by Burda, the underlap will be shorter than the length of the front piece due to the seam allowance for the yoke and one for the front peplum.



Come Together
The next mentioned steps seemed straightforward (very much quoting what I read):
*attaching the front yokes to the fronts
*gathering the lower edges of the fronts between the asterisks and stitching the peplums to the front
*gathering the lower edge of the back between the asterisks, and *stitching the back peplum to the back of the blouse.
*stitch side seams and shoulder seams

Never Can Say Good Bias

Here's the finishing for the neckline created from fabric cut on a bias strip, folded lengthwise attached to the neckline and the front facing, turned outwards. After stitching the raw edges of the bias strip to the neckline, I turned the facing back in, turned the strip to the inside and stitched 3/8" from the edge


Hem the One Your Width
I hemmed the entire bottom edge of the blouse after folding out the facings, stitching to the desired length, trimming up to the stitching, and turning the facing back in.


Daydream Be-Sleever
Sleeve construction should be fine, especially if you have experience (ah, from any of the big 4 patterns) in setting-in sleeves gathered at the cap and binding the gathered lower edges with bias strips, with raw edges turned to the inside and topstitched.

Yes, this is typical Burda, "Gather sleeves and set in."


Modifications
* I added 1 1/2" to the length of the front and back pattern pieces. Ladies with longer torsos need to adjust accordingly.
* As mentioned earlier, I increased the length of the bias strip used to make button loops
* I slightly gathered lower edges of the yokes to ease onto the top edge of the front pieces of the blouse.


Conclusion
With the exception of the billowy characteristic above the peplum (which looks better on people who have longer torsos), I like the overall style and distinctive details of this top (button loops, front yoke, and puffed sleeves). If you have a copy of the August 2008 of Burda WOF, I would highly recommend sewing it! This style would hopefully work better for you than for me! If I make this top again, I would definitely omit the peplum, narrow the waistline, and lengthen the top to better suit my frame and figure.

This pattern has a nice overall design and is nicely drafted.

Living in And-Dottica

Yeah! After having this pattern for months now, I finally decided to make it!


Pattern Description
"Misses' pullover bias tunic or top". I sewed View A, but with changes.

Sizes
Misses' 8-18. I sewed a "12" instead of a "14" after reading reviews that the sizing runs a bit large. I followed Krisine Kay's recommendation to cut a size based on the finished garment's measurements and glad that I did!

Fabric used
Poly charmeuse from Voguefabricsonline.com. This is the left over fabric from Heather's retro dress made last May.




Favorite Features
* Flattering v-neckline
* The built-in mock camisole or inset.
* Sleeve and length versatility
* Pullover style (no need for zippers!)
* Sans the back ties, I worked with only four pattern pieces for view A (bodice front, bodice back, sleeve, front and back of lower bodice or skirt). View B has 3 (front and back skirt, bodice front with built-in sleeve, bodice back with built-in sleeve)


Not-So-Favorite Features
* Inset originally came really low
* Back ties
* Tunic length not flattering for my figure


Directions
They were sufficient with good illustrations, especially for attaching the straps and the mock camisole or inset piece. It would have been easy to attach the inset in the wrong direction if I had not paid attention closely to the illustration, which showed the right side of the inset placed over the wrong side of the V-neck bodice (from the inside of the blouse) with the straps coming from the shoulders stitched to the marked circles at the corners of the inset.

There is some discontinuity of directions in reference to view A, then to view B and to both ("continue as follows for both views"). On the last page, there are the directions for the side seams and sleeves for view A, changing to the underarm seams for view B, and concluding with directions for both views for sewing the side seams of front and back of the lower bodice or skirt, hemming the bottom edge and attaching to the top of the bodice to create the waistline seam. I thought the last set of very brief directions would seem somewhat mysterious for a beginner sewist. They seemed hastily written!


Modifications
* Shortened the sleeves to about 5 cm in-seam. I could have selected view B, the kimono short-sleeved version (maybe next time), but opted for the slightly puffy sleeve cap that went with the long sleeves that were elastically gathered above the wrists.

* Omitted the back ties.

* Instead of pieces of ribbon as suggested, I cut out straps from the same fabric, 4 cm in width.

*I reduced the straps of the inset by one size. Next time if I plan to make this again, I'll shorten it by 1 1/2".

* Shortened the tunic length to an 1 1/2" above the cutting line for view "B", the top/blouse length. I did this to more in balance with the upper bodice. The tunic length (long enough on me to be a mini dress!!!!) of the lower bodice or skirt portion of the blouse placed more emphasis BELOW the bust, giving me that maternity look. I should have (got carried away with the scissors, heh heh) kept the View B's marked length to elongate my torso. I'll just call this some feature to emphasize my shoulder width.

* I edge-stitched the bottom for an undulating effect and also to reduce sewing time by eliminating the pressing and hemming what seems like a circular skirt, cut on the bias. I have some flashbacks from hemming Heather's dress with the circular skirt months earlier.


Conclusion
I definitely recommend this top if you want something stylish and easy to sew. Be on the lookout for the sizing.

Flowers in an Hour?
From 2001,



At that time, I made a knit striped from this pattern (long sleeve version, view C) and it was really easy for a beginner!

Now, seven years later, and I prefer it in a woven, view E:


Pattern Description
"Misses'/miss petite tops and sash" Tops A, B, C, D have dolman sleeves and bateau neckline; tops A, B have long sleeves; top B has over arm slits; tops C, D have three-quarter sleeves; top D has a sash; top E (the one that I recently sewed) has short sleeves with splits and optional purchased flower.

Size
Small/Medium. I sewed a medium.

Fabric
Crinkled cotton from Gorgeous Things


Favorite Features
* The boat or bateau neckline
* The short dolman sleeves with splits at the upper arms, which gives the top a distinctive style.
* Flattering contour of the side seams of the front and back pieces
* Tie belt, which I borrowed from another view
* Few pattern pieces to work with: the front, back, front facing and back facing.
* The sewing directions' format was easy to follow with helpful diagrams.

Other Features
* The openings under the armscyes came low. Wearing a camisole underneath would resolve modesty issues after all the hems and topstitching had been sewn. When I make this top again, I would sew 1 1/2"-2" beyond the top circular mark on each side seam to close the under arm gap, while still not restricting freedom of arm movement.

*The upper back for me was somewhat roomy, suitable for a horizontal tuck.

Directions
Cutting layouts, other information, and sewing directions for tops A, B, C or D all occupied a double sided page. The directions and illustrations were simple to follow and sufficient even for a beginner with basic skills.

Modifications
* None, except for sewing a belt used for view D, a long sleeved version.
* If I make this top again, I plan to add a center back seam or a horizontal tuck to take in the upper back to prevent the little gap and hence, the back neck facing from peeping out despite the understitching and tacking. There goes the "one-hour"!


Conclusion
This was really a quick, simple and fun top to make! But I would disagree a little with the one-hour sewing time. Details such as split sleeves, sewing a sash, and finishing the seams took a little added another forty minutes for me. I am not a speedy sewer as I used to be.



This was the second "timed" top that I made and have been satisfied with the results. If you have this pattern or something similar, give it a try!

Dot Your Ties!






I was inspired by Lori V's gorgeous tie blouse. I hereby propose that she and the blouse be on the front of the revised pattern envelope! Note that the Kwik Sew models (especially the right one) have these "Why-do-I-have-to-wear-these, eeeew-icky" expressions on their faces.

After two months of sitting on a shelf bookcase with the pattern pieces already cut, I finally decided to cut the fabric and sew it immediately! This garment will be part of my "Carribean Seams" mini-wardrobe plan for the fall.

Pattern Description
Misses' Fitted blouses have v-neckline, collar, bust darts, back waist darts, and front button closure. View A has three-quarter sleeves finished with facings and wide ties attached in the seams. View B has shawl collar, short sleeves with elastic rolled into casings and back ties attached in waist darts.


Sizing
Ladies' XS-S-M-L. This is the second time I worked with Kwik Sew patterns, my first being a 70's pattern. It seems as if Kwik Sew patterns lean toward some form of "vanity" sizing. For instance, I am not a medium according to Burda WOF's typical range of sizes on the patterns I have used. Based on my bust size, I am a medium on Kwik Sew's chart. The given waist size is 27 1/2"-29" (not what I currently have!!) and the hips 38 1/2 to 40" which is in my range. Those lucky ladies with waistlines that I envy will most likely have to adjust this pattern accordingly.

Favorite Features
*Great directions
*Wide front ties
*Shawl/wing style collar
*Slightly dropped shoulders
*Two back vertical darts (for back shaping)
*Bust darts
*Sleeves set-in very nicely into the armscyes (very little easing required). This seems to be a typical characteric I noted in the KS reviews I had read.
*Slit sleeve cuff. I like this quickie (KWIKkie) method, that I will adopt on tops with similar cuffs. The sleeve facing is sewn to the sleeve PRIOR to sewing the sleeve seams. I sewed the sleeve facing to the bottom edge of the sleeve (right sides together) while, stitching around the slit (1/8" from its edge). Then I turned the facing right side out at the corners.


Other Features (not really dislikes)
*Low armscye which seems to be a style feature. I have been used to styles with higher armscyes.
*Seam allowances of 1/4" are included. I used a 3/8" allowance which worked fine for me.
*I used 3" spacing between the 5 buttonholes. After re-skimming the Kwik Sew directions, I finally noticed that 3" was also the recommend spacing!


There is nothing really to dislike about this pattern, except wishing that I had sewn it sooner!


Directions
Very good! The overall presentation is nicely organized and uncluttered. You could easily locate the cutting tips, fabric layout (by fabric width, pattern view and size), basic sewing procedures (selecing a needle size, a quick and handy reference to types of stitches)and even clipping curves and corners. I wish I knew about KWIK SEW years ago!

I like the convenient pamphlet format, where I can leave the paper nicely folded to a particular section by column without having the entire page open and taking up space. The steps are clear and to the point. The illustrations are very helpful and easy to decipher.


Basic steps sans the illustrations (a la Burda WOF). Skip to the next section. I do not intend to bore you with redundant information!
* Interface the front facings and sleeve facings.
* Sew the bust darts and back vertical darts.
* Sew the fronts and back at the shoulder seams.
* Stitch the under collars together and attach to the neckline.
* Stitch the front facings at the center back seam and attach to the front and outer collar edges. Turn them to the wrong side and topstitch the neckline.
* Finish the hems of the ties and attach to the front of the blouse, aligning notches (wrong side of ties to correct side of the blouse)
* Sew side seams
* Ease-stitch sleeve cap
*Sew sleeve facing to edge of sleeve, right sides together. Turn to inside.
*Stitch sleeve seam while keeping the sleeve facing outstretched (right sides together, sleeve facing seam is formed which becomes clear after folding it to the wrong side of the sleeve)
*Set-in the sleeves
*Hem the blouse and make buttonholes.


Fabric
Cotton shirting from Gorgeous Things.


Modifications/Alterations
*I shortened the length to a "S".
*I lengthened the ties about 1".
*I raised the first butthonhole by about 3/8" above the pattern's marking.
*I cut another pair of the ties so that I could sew them right sides together and turn them inside out for a nicer finish. I also did not like the idea of turning the raw edges under and stitching which would show as the ties flop about.
*Machine finish the seam allowances. Next time, especially with thin fabrics, I plan to use a bias strip to bind the edges for a cleaner finish.


Conclusion
Overall, the top is straightforward and easy to construct, but not "quick" to sew, as the name of the pattern company implies.

I highly recommend this top, especially if you like the stylish wide tie front or as an alternative to the famous Burda front tie blouse. It is also very comfortable! I plan to sew another one in a silkier fabric.

Lotsa Dotsa!

Vogue 8292, already out of print!









Pattern Description
"MISSES’ BLOUSE: Wrap blouse has sleeve variations. B: front ruffle. C: purchased trim." I sewed view "A".


Size
10-12-14.

Usually I sew a "14" in the big 4. I took a chance with a "12" and glad that I did. A "14" would be really roomy in the upper portion.


Fabric
Polka-dotted georgette from Gorgeous Fabrics. I used a 60/8 needle due to it being slighly sheer.


Directions
After working with Burda WOF for about half a year now, these directions along with the illustrations are satisfactory. If you have sewn wrap tops and/or dresses, then you could get by just skimming the directions and relying on the illustrations. It can be assumed that the sewist has experience with basic sewing techniques such as binding an edge with self-facing, making darts, finishing seams, adding trim, and making ruffles.


Favorite Features
* The wrap style with several sleeve and neckline variations (sleeve lengths and style embellishments).
* The wide pleats or darts below the shoulders, giving a nice drape in the chest area.
* The short sleeves that are darted at the center, giving a slighly puffed effect.
I like the look of the neckline made from a long piece of fabric folded lengthwise and attached right sides together, folded to the inside and stitched.
* Slight asymmetrical front hem


Other Feathures/Observations

* The neckline runs lower than pictured on the envelope.

* I used my handy dandy seam ripper to remove several misaligned stitches on a section on the neckline where it bunched up due to the slight slipperiness of the fabric and some uncoordination on my part. If I make this top again in a similar type of fabric, I plan ot interface the neckline facings to stabilize them prior to stitching them to the neckline.

* From the envelope drawing of the view I sewed, I did not see the tie wrap to the front and tied in a bow. It seemed to be hidden and tied to the side.


Modifications
*Added a "modesty" snap as a quick and effective fix to raise and stabilize the neckline. I would not be surprised with this slippery fabric, if the neckline shifted every which way.

*I added my favorite 70's collar. For convenience, I traced and cut a copy of the original pattern piece. This is the second time I used this collar with another pattern. I did not encounter a problem stitching the neck facing to the collar.

*I omitted the front and back vertical darts. The top was better without them since I sewed a "12" instead of my usual "14" at the hips.

*I lengthened the ties by about 5". I wanted to make sure that the ties were long enough to encircle my waist and have enough for the bow.


Conclusion
I recommend this top if you want a fairly easy and gratifying project. I had a little challenge from working with a slightly slippery fabric.

Tangerine Twist


WOW! This is a first for me to have the new Burda WOF issue early in the month! This super August 2008 issue appeared in my mailbox a few days ago! ("Honey, I just picked up the mail.....I notice that there may be something of great importance....)

Pattern Description
Giant dots line up on this figure-fitted top! Raglan cap sleeves and a standing collar furnish the chic pullover look. Our sewing tips: Use an invisible zipper in centre back so that the collar fits snugly. Stitch all the hems with twin needles to guarantee suitably elasticity.

Sizes
Burda misses' 34 – 42.




Fabric
Rayon-Lycra Jersey - "Tangerine Floral" from Lucy's Fabrics.

Likes
*Versatile top that could be made in a solid or printed knit!
*Pattern consists of a front piece, a back piece, a front piece and a back piece for the sleeves, and rectangular pieces with specific lengths and widths: the collar and little lower armhole facings.
*The mock turtleneck and short sleeve style
*That indescribable Burda fit


Dislikes
*The sparse and cryptic directions, typical of Burda WOF, but can be figured out after careful thought or after an "Oops! I made a silly mistake...... Now I know what those directions mean!"

*The slight gathers atop the sleeve at the seam of the front and back short raglan sleeves. This could be caused by a combination of the fabric cut on the bias and goofy operator errors. I notice that even the Burda fashion model had some fabric bunching at the shoulders and arms!

*This top really requires an invisible zipper due to the high neckline and the length of the collar. However, after my "discoveries", I was able to bypass this feature.


Directions
What seemed like a very easy top due to the dot and a half rating was actually a test in perseverance and discovery!

I made note of the seam numbers and transferred the markings to the tissue paper onto which I was tracing. Unless my eyes deceived me, the only markings I saw were the ones on the upper armholes. As I discovered later, these are the points where the lower edges of the sleeve hems would be placed before pinning and sewing the sleeves onto the front and back piece.

The raglan looking sleeves with a front and back piece took more time than if I had set in a sleeve for a jacket!

I found it helpful to lay the pieces over the upper edges of the top (after side seams are stitched)as a point of reference to figure out the orientation of each pair of the front and back sleeve pieces. The directions mention to sew the shoulder seams (top edges of the front and back sleeve pieces seams marked "1") and the top seam of the front and back sleeve pieces in a "continuous seam." The tricky part was aligning and attaching the entire front and back sleeve piece onto the neckline while figuring out how to position the shoulder seams to avoid some fabric from bunching.


Modifications
*I was hoping that I would not need a back zipper. I was able to barely slip the top over my head before attaching the collar made from a 16" length and 4" rectangle of the same fabric which would eventually become a 2" wide collar after folding it lengthwise. Then I was curious how the collar would look like after I sewed it to the neckline. Yes, a zipper would be necessary due to the high neckline! I lowered the neckline about 3/4" (while cutting away the collar, ditching the seam ripper!). Fortunately I had already added enough of a seam allowance when I traced the pattern piece to compensate.

* I drafted a new collar piece. I cut a slightly wider and longer rectangle on the bias. YES! I was able to slip the top over my head! I like the slight drape my new collar. Now, I do not have to worry about feeling restricted by a tight collar and neckline.

*I skipped the facings for the lower arm facings. I made small zig-zag stitches after turning in a 3/8" hem.


Conclusion
I might give this top one more try with all the changes I just made! Hopefully the next top's construction will take less time. It's really a simple top to sew after figuring out some rough spots.

However.....I do very much recommend this fashion packed August 2008 issue! There are a lot of great looking outfits!

Jessie's Girls

1981.....What a great year and a year in music!

I purchased this from ebay. I like the square neckline and the sleeve variations! I made the sleeveless top with the ruffled front.







Pattern Description
From 1981, misses' pullover blouses with square neckline and sleeve options.

When I saw the printed year of this pattern I was taken back to flashbacks of high school, the "Valley Girl" fashion scene, and rocking to the music of Rick Springfield, the Police, Rick James and Pat Benatar!

Remember when the #1 hit "Jessie's Girl" was heard everywhere and soap opera fans swooned when they saw Dr. Noah Drake on General Hospital?


Size
Misses' size 12, bust 34"

Fabric
Alexander Henry "Mad for Mod" fabric from Hancock's of Paducah.

Did it look like the envelope
A little. My fabric, belt, and trim made my top unique.






Likes
*Square neckline with optional trim
*Organized instructions
*Versatile pattern






Dislikes
* Definitely meant to be belted due to being somewhat baggy
* Order of construction for adding the trim to the neckline
The trim is added to gathered edge of the ruffles, before sewing the ruffless to the neckline. But it was somewhat of a challenge to get my ruffles to line up with the trim (bias binding in a contrast color), especially at the "mitered" corners (little darts at specific points that line up with the square necklines' corners), and this is before attaching the ruffles to the neckline!



Modifications
* Added 3/8" to width of ruffle.
* Instead of adding trim to the ruffles prior to attaching to the neckline, I basted the ruffles to the neckline the and trimmed excess fabric at top (grade the edges). Then I sewed trim with a narrow elastric edge and little organza ruffles onto the edges of the neckline.

* If ever I make the ruffled neckline again, I would skip the trim and I would baste and sew the ruffles to the neckline before attaching the facings. I would also used elastic thread to gather the edge of the ruffles. It would have made gathering so much easier!


Directions
This was basic and simple blouse to sew that I relied more on the satisfactory illustrations! McCall's assumed that the sewist knows basic constructions such as gathering and making facings.


Would you make this again? Would you recommend this pattern to others?
Yes! I plan to make the other styles without the ruffled neckline. I would recommend this pattern or something similar to others. There are current patterns that have similar styling (i.e. Simplicity's Project Runway series

Lucky Ring Collars and Charms

I just found the opportunity to make the ring collared tunic, which I shortened to a top. This top reminded me of a dress that I made from a 60's pattern last year!





Vanity pics:



Pattern Description
"Misses'/miss petite dress or tunic with yoke variations." You also have options for embellishments such as bows, jewel trim, and buttons.

Directions
Four pages worth of clear and concise directions and reliable illustrations. The directions for the the sleeveless dress or tunic come first followed by the sleeveless yoke, "yoke with flat sleeves" and its corresponding neck band, "yoke with flat sleeves and slit openings", "yoke with flat sleeves and band", "yoke with gathered sleeves and band" and its corresponding neck band.

I interfaced the sleeveless front and back yoke pieces and stitched them together at the seams. I sewed the corresponding facing pieces (sans the interfacing) the same way. Then I sewed the facing to the interfaced yoke pieces, right sides together at the necline, armhole edgesand reinforced the inner corners with a few repeat stitches and clipped the inner corners. I also edge finished the facing.

On the last page, common to all versions are the directions for stitching the rest of the dress which includes stitching the front and back to the sleeveless yoke and the other yokes. I was not really impressed by the directions to insert a zipper. I could have omitted the zipper because I had more than enough clearance to slip the dress over my head.







Fabric
Last sewable remnant of my stretch cotton fabric, orignally purchased at Gorgeous Things.


Likes
*Easy to cut and easy to sew.

*The ring collar and sleeveless retro style

*Self-faced

*Versatility of pattern in terms of the types of yoke, sleeve and length options, and embellishments.




Dislikes

*The tunic/dress had quite a bit of ease. I could have done away with the zipper and stitch the back center seams. With the zipper closed, I was able to easily pull the top over my head.

*I cut a "14" which was somewhat baggy, which I would rather have than skin tight. I probably would have been better off with a "12."

*I did not like the instructions for the zipper. I find that Burda WOFS have invisible zipper tutorials that are decent.

*I did not like slight bagginess in the back caused by the gathered backs attached to the front and back yokes. I would redraft the back to eliminate the gathering, and to lessen the ease.





Modifications
* I shortened the tunic into a top because I was running out of fabric.

* I attached the zipper before slipstitching the facings over the seams created by the front and back yokes stitched to the gathered front and back of the dress. The directions have you slip-stitch after attaching the zipper.


Would you recommend this pattern? Would you sew it again?
Yes, I recommend this pattern if you like something simple to sew and if the styles on the pattern envelope appeal to you. If I use this pattern again, I would sew the same version, doing away with the gathers below the front and back yokes.

Conclusion
I found the sleeveless style the highlight of this pattern.

Pebbles and Wilma Are Home!

Jalie's very easy-to-make twist top!




Going solo!


Me and my mini-me!


After seeing and "flipping" over Shesflipped very cute top, I just had to make one and another!

Pattern Description
Women's twist front top with a spaghetti-style ties at the back of the neck, sleeve variations (sleeveless, short sleeve, three-quarters), an optional flounce along the center front seam below the bust, and an optional modesty panel if you are conscious about the low-neckline. I sewed the short sleeved version.

Size
Multi-sized child to adult. After making Heather's top (correlates to a girls' size "5") and seeing how easy it went together, I could not help but make mine right afterwards!

Fabric
Girly giraffe print in polyester/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Directions
They are available on the pattern sheet and downloadable from the Jalie site. They seemed clear enough for sewists of any level. I relied on the illustrations when I thought the directions were insufficient or unclear.

The front piece (I cut 2 for the left side and right side)is curved below the armscye tapering into a large rectangular piece (panhandle-looking) that when cut, extends to near the entire width of fabric folded in half lengthwise. Referring to the illustrations before the twist step, there was what I call a "jump" notch located on the the neckline. I figured that this is the point where the neckline finishing stops for each front side.

The twist front is very simple to sew once I figured out that from the inside of the blouse, the left wrong side's under bust seam was created by taking the bottom curve and folding it into a sideways "U" or loop, matching the notches, and sewing right sides together, leaving a 2 cm opening from the center for the other front side to pass through. The under bust seam of the other front piece is sewn the same way, stopping as close to the twist as possible. The front center seam is formed by sewing the two fronts together below the twist. This is clear from the printable directions.


Likes
* I worked with only three pieces: the front, back, and the puffed short sleeve.
* Easy to make once I figured out how to create the seams under the bust and the twist front.
* The 3 sleeve options to get a variety of looks.
* The front neckline on Heather's version was very appropriate
* The neckline did not become wavy or gape after folding under the raw edge and made tiny zig zag stitches.
* Great style for any figure!




Dislikes
* I omitted the thin back tie since I did not care for it.
* The v-neck came about 1" lower then what I feel comfortable with. I wore a camisole underneath.


Modifications
*I redrafted the low neckline at the back by raising it about 3/4" to eliminate the need for the back ties.

*I raised the neckline by about 3/8". I wanted to raise it much more. However, I noticed that I would have to raise the under bust seam more to compensate later for the twist portion that would inevitably and naturally by construction pull down the neckline. Since I did not want the under-seam bust to be any higher, I could have left the neckline as is. Now I understand why Jalie includes the optional "modesty" panel.

*I omitted the bottom sleeve binding for the puffed sleeve version. I prefer the natural drape of the sleeves.


Would you recommend this pattern?
I definitely recommend this top which really comes together easily and quickly! The top can go from casual to dressy depending on what type of fabric you use and could easily be drafted to become a dress. Since this top does not take much material to make, it would be an ideal project for knit left over from previous projects.

Conclusion
Heather liked this twist top a lot(her first one) that she wore this top on her first day of kindergarten! Now, we have a new household favorite !Jalie earns a high mark for this pattern!

Seeing spots and a bit of stripes!