Holiday Wishes

We wish you a joyous, tranquil, and blessed Christmas/holiday season

and also one that is festive and bright,

 

"...And so I'm offering this simple phrase,
To kids from one to ninety-two,
Although it's been said many times, many ways,
Merry christmas
Merry christmas
Merry christmas to you"


From our sew-spicious minds to you, Merry Christmas and Season's Greetings to you!

Clover and Over

Here's my first "Amazing Fit" pattern by Simplicity that I recently sewed with.  The pattern comes with sleeve and collar variations.The front pieces also come in  A, B, C and D cups sizes.

I used a "10" at the shoulder seams, a "12" at the armscyes and sleeves, and a "14" elsewhere.

I used a printed cotton by Kaffe Fassett that I purchased from a local fabric store that recently went out of business.  The owner decided to retire and wanted more time to spend time with family and of course, to sew.

My other purchases on that day, which coincided with PR's 10th anniversary.  I received a 60% discount on the entire transaction!

My Simplicity 2151 blouse

Pattern Instructions 

The procedures and diagrams to construct the blouse are clear. The directions for achieving an "amazing fit" are in a "fit as you sew" format which is helpful for a beginning sewist or any sewist who wants to be involved in a fitting process. There are "opportunities" to check for the fit at the front, back, and sides and make adjustments as necessary from the basted seams (1" allowance). The sleeves also needed to be adjusted accordingly. However, there are no "tips" to alter a pattern piece, based on your fitting adjustments.


Favorite/Not-so favorite Features of Pattern
I like the "wing" collar, epaulets, princess seams at the front, and the pleated and buttoned sleeve cuffs. 

A "wing" collar shirt by Lafayette 148 New York for $228 at bluefly.com

A "Foxcroft" shirt at travelsmith.com, $74

 

I did not obtain an "Amazing Fit" immediately based on my typical adjustments to the pattern. In fact, I encountered a "dismay-zing" fit: extra ease at the waist, hips, and the back, necessitating more adjustments than my usual with shirts and blouses. I probably could have gone down a size to avoid spending additional time taking in the back darts and side seams.

Pattern alterations
* My standard 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

* Trimmed an excess of 1/4"-3/8" from the sleeve caps after easing and setting in the sleeves.

* I slightly lowered the first buttonhole from the original marking on the buttonhole guide and used five instead of six buttons.

*Omitted the side vents.


Recommendations
I probably would, now that I am familiar with this pattern. I recommend this shirt for its classic styling and despite the fitting to achieve the "amazing fit", it really is a straightforward shirt to sew. 

Conclusion:
It is a nice basic for any wardrobe.

Don't Sleeve Me This Way

I made a second top from pattern #138B from the September 2011 issue of Burda Style, with a few modifications.

 

The sleeves are actually "poufier" than illustrated.

But not as voluminous as this Yves Saint Laurent cotton top.  Would you believe this off-shoulder top is $1,390 at SaksFifthAvenue.com? This is such a simple style!

My second version of the Burda Style sewing pattern. The fabric I used was an Amy Butler cotton from the "Lotus" collection.

I used an Amy Butler cotton from the "Lotus" collection.

My first version that I call my "Tool Time" top, printed with school supplies such as protractors, scissors, drafting compasses, and more. Original post for this blouse

Modifications from first version
(1) replace the button/buttonhole front (front facings) with a center seam

(2) create a keyhole opening/slit above the center seam, with the lower edge 3 1/2" below the edge of the neckline. I folded a narrow hem to the inside of the top and topstitched close to the edge.

(3) increase the shoulder width by adding 1 1/4" to the front shoulder tapering to an additional 3/8" at the armscye. I also added 1 1/4" to the back shoulder width from the neckline and re-drew the neckline (raising it slightly) to accommodate the additional width.

(4) use a drawstring for the entire neckline casing (per Burda's original directions) instead of an elastic with fabric ties at the ends

(5) decrease the width of the sleeves by a maximum of 1/2" at each side (and still the sleeves are "poufy")

I'll probably make another top sometime soon in a drapier fabric such as chiffon. 

An Alexander McQueen semi-sheer bohemian top with long sleeves gathered at the wrists. Saksfifthavenue.com, $1,440.

Even though the colors of this blouse do not complement my skin tone as well as deeper colors, I am satisfied with the overall style.

Tool time and Pattern Wish Time

From page 35 of the September 2011 issue of Burda Style: "The lovely blouse with dirndl-style neckline and long puffed sleeves..."    This pattern comes in Burda misses' 44-52.

 

Pattern schematic drawing

Fabric Used:

Printed cotton from fabric.com.

 

Pattern Instructions

Rebellious me, barely referred to them, and relied on my experience from making tops with gathered necklines and tops with front facings and buttonholes. At first glance, my initial reaction was "Huh?" because the instructions seemed overwhelming. After reading all of them once, they are really logically sequenced and are adequate for advanced beginners and beyond.


Before tracing the pattern pieces, I outlined each piece with my handy-dandy highlighter making it so much easier for my eyes to delineate among the convoluted roadmap of curves! I used a transparent type of gift wrap tissue paper (i.e. Michael's craft store), taping sheets together for tracing "longer" pattern pieces.


Favorite Features
*Fairly simple to sew

* I like the drawstring neckline which I replaced with an elasticized neckline, which raises the intimidatingly low neckline.

*I like the fit of the top at the waist and hips due to the contours at the sides, and the front and back darts. I just need to take in sides just above the lower hem, because they flared out slightly more than I wanted.

*I was relieved to not encounter "extra fabric" below the
 back of my neck or at my upper back.

* After being a faithful Burda subscriber for several years, I am seeing blends of past or familiar styles in a new issue. This top echoes the style elements favorite tops that I have sewn from previous Burda WOF and/or Burda Style issues.


Not-so-favorite Features
*Because I did not seem to add enough seam allowance to the armscye, my top was narrow at my shoulders.  I have often experienced blouses/tops being wide at the shoulders and/or upper back.

*Also I did not anticipate the sleeves to still be slightly short, especially after adding 1" while I traced the sleeve pattern.


Pattern alterations/modifications
*Since I usually sew a "40" at the waist hips, I did not add a seam allowance to the "44" that I traced.

*Lowered shoulder seams, to approximate my usual "38" at the shoulders.

* Performed my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waistline.

*Used the back darts to reduce the "puffiness" at my waist and hips.
*Because I did not have enough fabric for a bias binding to encase the neckline, I turned in a 3/8" hem (with the raw edge turned under) and topstitched the edge to create a casing for 1/4" elastic instead of a pair of drawstrings (from the same fabric) to be inserted. 

*Replaced the sleeve bands with elasticized casings (3/8" topstitched hem, elastic with 1/4" width).

*Omitted the sleeve vents and sleeve ties.

My daughter captured me in one of my embarrassing "Huh?" moments

Recommendations
After a few more "tweaks, I'll give this pattern another try, hoping to make this my "new favorite" pattern.  I still recommend this pattern, mainly due to the ease of construction if you modify the neckline and sleeve details. I advise making a muslin or trial version and make any necessary adjustments.

Wow!
Just three pattern pieces to cut: front, back, and sleeve!

I really like this issue of Burda Style! 

It has been awhile that I can honestly say that Burda magazine packed with fun and fashion! Here are the ones I hope to make, if I have the time.

The neckline of this dress is definitely eye-catching!

 

I like the simplicity and color-blocking of this tunic.

Something forceful, yet still feminine with the flounces

Something for my daughter

Two luscious colors and two classics that coordinate nicely together.

 

Preppy appeal with a stripe knit top and a mini

 

I am not sure about Burda's title of this ensemble.

A cape would be fun to make.  I would skip the embroidery and the fringes to keep it simple.

 

This will be my next Burda Style project when the time arises.  I like the details and silhouette of this jacket, but with some added length to keep things in proportion.

Meow-valous

Fly Me to Cancun!

My description of New Look 6911:  Princess-seamed shirt/jacket with sleeve and collar options; two types of skirts. I sewed view B, the collarless jacket with a rounded neckline.  The pattern comes in a misses' 10-22. I sewed a "10" at the shoulders, "12" at the arms, and "14" elsewhere.  Although I somewhat diverted somehat from the instructions, the steps were logical and easy to follow.

I used a "Cancun" printed cotton from Alexander Henry, 2010.  I like the vibrant and tropical print.  It makes me crave a tall glass of a luscious fruity beverage.  

Having a not-so-good hair day! (Wind-blown effect)

 

Favorite Features
*Classic styling of a princess seamed shirt/jacket with a rounded neckline, which flatter any figure.

*Versatile jacket due to the potential of acquiring many types of looks with a change of a collar, sleeve, and or fabric

Not-so-favorite features
*As noted by previous reviewers of this pattern, I encountered some extra ease in the upper back, lower side backs, and at the lower armscye, and surprisingly a lower neckline. Raising the neckline 3/4" from the center of the neck would be ideal

*I am not too fond of the back facing.


Modifications/Alterations:
*I took in the upper center with an additional 3/8" seam tapering to 0" at the waistline.

*Lined the entire jacket. Per the original directions, I cut a total of 4 front pieces, of which 2 will serve as interfaced front facings. I cut lining pieces for the side fronts, side backs, center back, and sleeves and assembled them the same way that I did for the original pieces. I bagged the lining, leaving a 3" opening at one of the lower armscyes of the sleeve lining for the entire jacket to be turned inside out.
  

Wearing the lining on the outside as a reversible jacket, which I plan not to do.

*Performed my usual petite adjustment at the waistline, which did not seem necessary

*Tried to get as much "symmetry" or print matching as possible by cutting the left and right "front" and "side front" pieces on a single layer instead of double layer of fabric.

Recommendations
I plan to give this pattern another try, but not immediately, due to trying other patterns in my stash. Although there seems to be a sizing discrepancy, I still recommend the pattern for its classic styling.


Maybe it is not a good idea to visit Cancun this week.  The forecasted weather this week will be cloudy and rainy.

 

Franki-ly Speaking

An Ann Taylor wine-colored knit dress with a cowl neck for $88

Cowl-ifornia Girls

By Jean Paul Gautier, at Saks Fifth Avenue for ...

$795????

Here's a simple cowl neck dress/top "with slightly extended shoulder line. Hugging the neckline at the back and falling softly into a front cowl. Suitable for all occasions." The patterns come in sizes 6 - 8 - 10 - 12 - 14 - 16 - 18 - 20 - 22 - 24 - 26 - 28 - 30. You specify a size while ordering from the website. I purchased a "12".

Here's the link if you are interested in the Franki pattern at the Stylearc.com website:

http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=387&category_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=39

Second version

First version in a top:

For my first verion, I used remaining knit from fabric.com that I used for creating the "Kate" wrap dress.  Second version: A crinkled poly knit from EOS.


Instructions
The instructions are in a "list" format while including key diagrams for the shoulder seam, center back seam, and finishing the inside of the neckline after folding in a portion of the front of the neckline that forms the "cowl".

Favorite Features
I like the drape and depth of the cowl and the clever construction of the draped neckline. After stitching the shoulder seams, the top ends of the front of the top/dress are joined to form the center back seam, leaving an opening between what I called "the newly-formed-thick-back-neckband" and the upper edge of the back neckline. Then between the "mitered" points of the shoulder seams, I stitched the edges together to close the gap, thus forming the inner back seam. The back "neck stand" is formed by folding the "back neckband" to the inside so that it covers the seam of the inner back neckline.

Not-so-favorite Features
Although I like the silhouette, I am not fond of the extra ease I experienced at and below the waist, causing the dress to appear somewhat "sack like" on me.


Alterations/Modifications:
For my second version, the dress, I made my usual petite adjustment at the waistline. After experiencing a bearably snug top (first version) due to taking in the shoulders and center back seam, I reverted to the original marked seams for my dress. I also added a tie belt in the same fabric to pull in some extra fabric at and below my waist.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! I already have two in the queue to be made from "stashed" fabric. Be prepared to get hooked to this pattern after you try it for the first time due to how quickly you get a top or dress with a flattering front drape.

Recommendation
This is dress is comparable to the popular Vogue 1250 DKNY dress. If you are looking for a stylish knit dress that is very simple to sew with minimal fuss, then I highly recommend this pattern.

Halloween 2011: Me and Pippi Longstocking