Saturday, May 19, 2012

Just Faux Fun

I was inspired by the versions of the dresses and tops created by previous reviewers of this pattern.

Pattern Description:
 Raglan top/dress with faux wrap front with sleeve options. Also there is a pattern for a pair of pants. I sewed the shorter dress with the cap sleeves. I replaced the buckle and hoop piece with the same tie used for the right front wrap. Pattern Sizing: Size 8-16. I sewed a "12" at the top and a "14" elsewhere. If I had followed my intuition, I would have sewed an "8" at the shoulders and the bodice.


Faux wrap dresses are still trending!

Alfani faux wrap dress with a side tie for nearly $90.



Directions
They were satisfactory except for some confusion that I encountered at step 4.   I was puzzled at the diagram which appears to be an error for the right front (what I call the "over drape") to be attached to the back. It appears to be reflected to look like a "left front". At first I thought I had cut the pattern piece in the wrong direction. Several reviewers mentioned this diagram. Apart from step #4, if you have sewn wrap dresses before, you should experience very little or no difficulty in following the directions.

 Fabric
I used a cotton jersey with what seems to be lycra.  I like the festive colors and the "paint splash" effect of the print.  If I were asked to give this print a name, I would say "Splashes of Samba".




Favorite Features/Not-so Favorite Features
 I like wrap dresses in general: faux and true wrap dresses. The dress as a whole was simple to construct with the notches matching nicely. The right overlay consists of three pleats that clevely conceals my tummy and is figure flattering.

The only things that I am not fond of were (a) the kimono sleeves that overwhelmed my frame, which I eventually shortened to provide a better aesthetic balance, and (b) the uncomfortably low neckline with the extra ease. My "quick fix" is later explained in the "modifications" paragraph.


 Pattern alterations or any design changes:
*Took in the center back seam 1/2" for a total of 1" to reduce some gaping at my upper back.

 *Made my usual 1" petite adjustment at the "waistline" printed at the left front, right front, and back pattern pieces.




 * My left front of the dress experienced some gaping. Since the right front wraps over the left,  I could easily control how tight or loose of the wrap will be with the side ties.  As for the left I could not, because it had been already stitched to the left side seam.  To simultaneously reduce some gaping and to raise the neckline to a more comfortable level, I pulled out a "wedge" of fabric (approximately 1" from the corner) from the left front where I experienced the gaping, so that it pushes out some extra fabric beyond the original side seams and raises the neckline accordingly.  Then I re-stitched the left side seam from a higher point beneath the armscye. Not a pretty sight from the inside, but at least I would not have to worry about unwanted extra exposure. Here is a picture of my quick fix:



 * I removed 3" from the lower hem.



I plan to sew the top version with the short sleeves after a few adjustments to the pattern pieces. I still recommend this pattern for its on-trend style and ease of construction. You are one of the fortunate ones if this pattern fits you perfectly out of the envelope!

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Forever Jalie 29-21

Here we are again at Forever Twenty-One, for a semi-frugal and guilt-free shopping experience.


This Saturday I wore my new version of Jalie's scarf-collar top, #2921 in a viscose/rayon jersey knit from EOS. 

Just a few days ago, I unraveled the mystery of the "burrito" method for finishing the collar.  It is done before sewing the center front seam.  It does not work when there is no center front seam, which I avoided for my first and second versions.  Otherwise, it is impossible to pull the rolled up fabric of the front and back through the "tube" formed by the collar sewn right sides together (process done after the "right" or "visible" side of one edge of the collar is attached to the "wrong" or "not visible" side of the neckline). Instead of pulling the fabric through one tie end of the collar,  I pulled it through  a  1 1/2" gap approximately 8" from one tie end.  Then I stitched the gap closed 2 mm from the edge to make it less conspicuous when making a neck bow or adding a slide through buckle.


From left to right;
Fourth, second, first, and third versions


Now, returning to our most recent visit to Forever 21:

Once we entered through the second level of the store, we gravitated towards the accessories department with the earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. 

Heather's items: a set of bangles,  a purple bracelet with interwoven designs, a pair of "Eiffel Tower" earrings, a faux rhinestoned cheetah, a necklace with an anchor pendant, and a set consisting of six pairs of earrings (a pair of white flowers, faux diamond 6 petaled flowers, ribbons tied in bows, miniature finger rings, birds in flight, and little balls formed by wound "chains".


My items: a purple hinged bangle embossed with faux rhinestone flowers at the edges, a pair of metal earrings that simulate colorful feathers, an owl necklace, and a pair of goldtone and black zig zagged dangling earrings.  The "parallelograms" and the "trapezoid" at each apex did not come out clearly between the black zig zags. 


The Forever21.com website also sells them.  This photo does not capture the glistening of the metal. These would complement my top nicely.

Also from the website ,"rhinestone flower hinge bracelet".
From the girls' section, some tops to update Heather's summer wardrobe:

A knit kimono sleeved top with a laced back for $12.90 and made in the U.S.A. yeah!

A tank for $2.90 that can be worn underneath the gray top.

For a fashion fan-da, a beary cute t-shirt for $8.90

To go with the tops, a pair of denim shorts.


Heather likes the tie to cinch the waist.




For my mom, a polka dotted and floral (jade colored background) breezy top, with an elasticized and clasped belt.  I also purchased for my mom a polka dotted, knit top with a ruffled front


 As for jewelry, it will be "authentic" instead of the  "baubles and beads" for her. She rarely wears the "fake" stuff. She would probably like Macy's 14 karat gold "Diamond Cut Marquise Filigree Drop Earrings".


After paying at the register, posing in front of the F21 ladies in their current summer attire.




I wonder how often the outfits on the mannequins are changed.

Three weeks ago during our previous visit.  Heather added a little more attitude to the group.

 
Heather with an "attitude adjustment" for the current display, and wearing an Abercrombie and Fitch top amidst the Forever 21 outfits. Heh heh heh...



 I received a rock transformed into a ladybug.  Thanks, Heather!


Happy Mother's Day!

Wednesday, May 02, 2012

The Bold and the Bow-tie-ful



 Oh, no another Jalie 2921 scarf top! I wore this to work today.  It is a derivative of my original.
 Not too long after making my original Jalie 2921 scarf collar top, I quickly started the second in a poly knit. While attaching the neck tie collar, my two ties met at a point just below my right shoulder, where my left tie surpassed the center front and my right tie stopped before center front. Surprisingly, I actually liked the result! Raising the neckline neckline was not necessary due to the "pull" of the tie being transferred to the side.
  



Original top in a viscose lycra knit with "equine"-tessential print



Third "fun-sized" version:



Two looks from the same pattern. 

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Fleurs des Leis et du Soleil

A "Mai Tai" floral from Montgomery Wards



 and a "Joan Draper" floral sheath from Banana Republic. 


That sounded like an unusual concoction for some cocktail.



After mixing top #110B: "Exotic Dream...Dropped shoulders, cowl neckline, and a straight casual cut put plenty of drive in this hip-length top."
Burda Style Knit Top



and the skirt portion of a dress #133 from the May 2012 issue of Burda Styla magazine,


Backdrop


I created what I call my "Fleur des Leis" dress.
Tara Coys

The available sizes are Burda misses' 34-44. I sewed a "38" at the shoulders and a "40" elsewhere.


Fabric Used:
From the EOS website: "A beautiful printed lightweight cotton from Italy, with a delightful floral in a greenish-turquoise, pumpkin, black, light lime, khaki and cadet blue (PANTONE 15-5519, 15-1157, 13-0220, etc). Floaty, just a little bit sheer, with a cottony drape."



 Some brighter flash from the camera.
Fleurs des Leis

Just a few miles from the California/Mexico border.
Terra Coys

The Instructions
I really did not use them since I had already sewed #109 (drawstring top) which uses the same pattern pieces for cowl top #110B, front and back. The front and back for the cowl top are both cut on the bias, whereas for the drawstring top only the front is cut on the bias (which I did not do for my drawstring top that I also transformed into a dress). However, for 110 B, I cut the back along the lengthwise grain to reduce ease.

The directions were the most concise of all the patterns in the issue. Sewing the shoulder seams, side seams, top stitch the hems of the neckline, sleeves, and lower edge are all you need to successfully create this top. Things are much more simpler with a serger or coverstitch.


Favorite, Not-so-favorite Features
With the "cowl" neckline still trending, this top is a quick and easy to alternative to other current patterns from other pattern companies. The only flaw I am able to point out is most likely due to using a woven instead of a knit is the tendency for the cowl to "ride up", which can easily be remedied by tacking the fabric to the inside with little hand stitches. Otherwise, the "peeping" fabric does not detract too much from the overall style of the top.


Adjustments/Modifications
*Just like with my drawstring top using #109, I created a "dress version" of pattern #110 B.

*I used my modified front and back pieces from drawstring top #109


Tara Coys


*I used the skirt portion of dress #133 just like I had done with #109

My review for drawstring top/dress #109 contains the adjustments I made to the pattern pieces. They are under the "adjustments/modifications" subheader if you are interested.

*In top #109, the hems of the armscyes are topstitched prior to sewing the shoulder seams due to the insertion of the drawstrings through the encased seams. However, for this top #110B, the steps are reversed, which is typically done in the construction of shirts or blouses.


Fleurs des Leis


Sew it Again, Sam
Technically, this is the second time that I sewed with the same pattern pieces from #109 and #133. Next on my sewing queue with this pattern is a knit top version sometime soon. I still recommend this pattern as a quick gratification project and as a first-time Burda project.

After a week of intermittent rain, it was a nice day to enjoy the sunshine wearing something new!



My daughter looking up at the UCSD "Sun God", in La Jolla, California.   May 18 is just around the corner for the 30th annual festival to honor this colorful being (created by a talented French Artist). Oh, well, many of us have to work on that day!   http://sgf.ucsd.edu/

Here Comes The Sun Worshipper


My daughter wearing some new leggings and a pair of Hello Kitty Vans sneakers.

Sunny Day


"Tara Coys and Lima Greens" on a sunny and slightly windy day.
Sunny and Windy Day


Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Coral Blossoms and May Burda without the "Marc" Up

Heather and I recently went to the mall to scout for sales at her favorite stores (The girl's section at Forever 21 and Abercombie).  Before we visited her favorite stores,  we visited Bloomingdale's, not only to use its classy WC, but also to do some "snoop" shopping.  We admired the vibrantly colored dresses at the Marc Jacobs department.

The coral nylon and lace was an appropriate length for Heather.


"Muriel Lace" for $348 was not an appropriate price for me to pay for such a dress.  Divide that by 10 and it would be more reasonable.


Somebody also had an eye for splashes of red, blue, green, yellow, and pink.  The drawstring shoulders are nice features. 


It was a coincidence to see that Heather's "hand-near-ear-and-hands-on-hip" pose "reflected" this model wearing the same dress featured on Bloomingdales.com referred to as the "Exclusive Super Nova Blossom Knit" for $298. The price is a super no-no for me.

 
 The drawstring shoulders of the "Super Nova Blossom Knit" dress "drew" me to this Burda top (#109) from next month's issue that I received this just a few days ago, much earlier than expected.  However the drawstring extends the entire length of the front of the neckline, with each end tied to a drawstring emerging from a back encased shoulder seam.

Pattern #109 from May 2012 of Burda Style magazine



I like the top, but easily envisioned it to be a dress as inspired by the Marc Jacobs colorful one. Since I had access already to the May issue, I sifted through it to find a close-fitting skirt.  Then a flash from an unknown "super nova" came to my mind.  Since I liked the look of the skirt of the "vintage dress", I decided to trace the front and back pieces and work with those, making adjustments as needed to coalesce with the top portion of  the drawstring top pictured above.


Pattern #133, dress with "revealing" back and ties at shoulders



 I "borrowed" the skirt portion of this dress



I wanted to make a dress to reflect to celebrate the season of rebirth and flowers in bloom. I selected a cotton fabric printed with coral flowers.  Altogether I cut the front, back, and three drawstring pieces of pattern #109 and the front and skirt pieces of  pattern #133.  I cut a "38" at the shoulders grading to a "40" at the sides.  For the skirt, I cut a "40".

Favorite and Not-So-Favorite Features
The top was generally simple to sew, consisting of only two main pattern pieces to put together.  The same two pattern pieces are also used for style #110, the knit top with the draped front.  The only thing that I am not to fond of is the tendency for the neckline to bunch at the curves while top stitching. After inserting the three drawstrings and extending each end of the front drawstring to be tied to a corresponding back shoulder drawstring. I encountered some "drape" at the front, which is not very noticeable on the model's neckline in the magazine.  I would rather leave it like that as a style feature then have my shoulders and upper arms be restricted in movement. 

 
Procedures/Instructions
I was able to follow the instructions without the state of being mystified that I typically associate with instructions in a Burda magazine.   Amidst the wording, I was able to figure out the scant hemming and topstitching of the short kimono-style sleeves before stitching the side seams and the method to encase the drawstrings at the front neckline and the shoulder seams (pressing open the shoulder seams and topstitch). 



Adjustments/modifications
* For the bodice sections of my dress,  I cut the front and back sections of the top approximately 1 1/2" past the waistline mark.  Above the waistline, I made a 3/4" petite adjustment at the front and back sections.   If I made the top, I would have extended 7"-8" beyond the waistline mark.   

* I made a 3/8" center seam at the back.




* While tracing the pattern, I missed marking the point that marked the lower end of the armscye and the start of the side seam.  From my experience, I usually raise those points for undergarment modesty reasons.  While tissue-fitting the front pattern piece on me,  I marked my point of preference and marked the corresponding point onto the back piece.

* After I sewed the side seams of the front and back bodice and the side seams of the front and back of the skirt, I attached the skirt to the bodice, right sides together.  With minimal fidgeting, I was able to pin the upper edge of the back portion of the skirt to the lower edge of the back bodice.   However, the front bodice was about two inches wider than the upper edge of the front skirt portion.  To resolve this, I slightly gathered the lower edge of  the front bodice, which is also done to the actual front bodice of the dress with the draped back.  While stitching the upper edge of the front of the skirt to the lower edge of the front bodice, I distributed the gathers evenly. 

*Because I was able to easily slip in and out of the dress, I omitted the zipper.


Yeah, another dress for the warm weather!
It may not look exactly like Marc Jacob's "Super Nova Blossom" but at least I can wear this with the satisfaction of wearing something that exudes playful and simple chic and having spent  approximately 1/20 of the cost.