Charlotte Ruched via Vogue 8790

To prevent me from purchasing more patterns, I sifted again through my "newer" pattern stash and decided to try Vogue 8790.  I sewed the long sleeve version, view "C".

Pattern Description:
"Close-fitting, pullover, mock wrap top has front extending into standing back collar and stitched hems.  A and B: narrow hem armholes and sleeves B."  I sewed a "12" instead of my usual "14" at the sides.
The RTW top closest in style that I found on SaksFifthAvenue.com was Lafayette 148 New York's draped top in a viscose jersey, that is currently on sale for $178, reduced from $298 (wow, what a deal...).  This top also has the ruched back seam at the collar  as Vogue 8790 does.

I used what seems like a cotton/rayon jersey.  The top is truly form-fitting, especially after I went down a size.  

Directions:
They were brief and supplemented with helpful diagrams. I relied on those diagrams to ensure the proper placement of fabric prior to stitching.

 I was particularly attentive to the...

*procedure for creating the ruched center back seam of the collar, attaching it to the back neckline and to the shoulders at the "pivot" points.  I was not able to precisely ease the collar (facing folded to the inside) onto the neckline/shoulder seam juncture  due to encountering a tad of "excess" fabric from the collar. 

*procedure for placing the left and front bodice before stitching the side seams with the back portion.  Working with three layers of fabric provides an added challenge to distributing evenly the side gathers and aligning them between the marked circles. 


Favorite Features and Not-So Favorite Features:
I am a fan of faux and true wrap tops and dresses.  I discover that after working with some patterns, there are particular style features when put together that do not seem to work harmoniously as I had hoped for.  For instance, I am not sure about the pairing of a folded front facing (starting from the collar) with side ruching or gathers.   This notion comes after spending some  time fiddling with the lower end of the front facing at each side and fiddling with the side gathers to make them aesthetically appealing on a short torso or a short-waisted figure.   The specified sewing level of "Very Easy" just changed to "Very Fussy"...

Modifications/Alterations
*Narrowed the upper back 1/2" at the center back (1" total width)  tapering to 0" at the center back.

*Even after my usual 1" petite adjustment at the waist, I removed 1 1/2" from the lower edge, which resulted in adjusting the side gathers and moving them upward prior to pinning the front bodice pieces to the back and stitching the side seams.  I could not wear the side drape low as pictured on the pattern envelope or as low as the Lafayette top.

*To reduce the looseness of the front facing at the waistline/sides, I trimmed 1/2" from each end  before stitching the side seams.  

*Unless I missed this step in the directions, I machine basted the left and front bodice at the lower edge before hemming the entire top. 

Recommendations
Although the pattern did not work for me as drafted or "straight out of the envelope", it is a fairly simple top to sew.  Beware the length of the top, especially if you are like me who does not possess a long torso.  Since I have several patterns for surplice tops (new and previously used),  I am not certain if I will sew this one again. If you have this pattern in your stash, give it a try and see if it works for you or, make it work for you.

Anna Sew-ee

I just sewed a Laura Ashley top from McCall's 6437.

According the back of the envelope, the tops are "very loose-fitting" with front gathers, raglan sleeves, and stitched hems.  I agree with the "very loose-fitting" description! The top prior to taking in the seams, was a shapeless tent on me.  Because it still is "baggy" after taking in the seams approximately two sizes smaller, I need a belt to cinch the waist. For now, I used this polka belt as a temporary belt.  I need to buy a wide "hipster" belt to complete the look.

Fabric used:  Anna Sui printed lightweight silk with a semi-crisp drape. I thought this type of fabric would suit the bohemian flair of the top.  I am still not certain after my results.

After looking at the model on the envelope leaning to her left, and at the McCall's website with her left arm raised and left hand not too far from her forehead, I could not help but wonder if such poses were done to prevent the top from slipping past her shoulders.

Modifications:
Shortened the sleeves and elasticized their hems.

Performed my usual upper back and 3/4" petite adjustment at the waistline.

Took in each side seam an additional 1/2" which seemed to be the equivalent of reducing by two sizes (i.e. 14 to 10).

Observations:
I wore this top today at a church bazaar, where Heather was to perform a few dances that day.  If I  had used a "crisper" fabric, I would have experienced less "slippage" at the shoulders.  Using a tie made from the same fabric was  not good idea, especially with the slippery fabric that I used.


The  80's "flashdance" off the shoulder look, demonstrated by this pair of Victoria's Secret models from its online catalog,  was not my intention when I was wearing this top.  My left shoulder had a tendency to show, as seen on the model in blue.

Not a flattering angle of me, especially from where my photographer was sitting. But at least the weather was lovely today!

Not a good idea to use a "tie belt". It did not work well with the slippery fabric. 

 

Conclusion:
After working with this pattern and experiencing the expected challenges that went with it, I intend not to try it again.  Although my top is wearable, I am not completely satisfied with it.  It's time to try a new pattern.

At least we were very happy today after my daughter's dance performance!

Gray Areas

As I was sifting through my patterns for knits, I discovered this one, "Fitted tops have neckline and sleeve length variations, stitched hems.."  I sewed view "E" with the shawl collar, wrap front, and long sleeves.  Sizing: Misses' 8-10-12-14.

I used a  Calvin Klein  semi-lightweight  and somewhat silky polyester (90%) and lycra (10%) knit from fabricmartfabrics.com

Oops! My non-intentional "misprint".

The directions were clear and easy to follow, with helpful diagrams.

Favorite Features:
* Simple to construct with 4 pattern pieces for the collared version.
* The cross-over wrap detail.
* Contoured fit at the sides.
*   The collar nicely encompasses the edge of the neckline and the cross-over portion of the right bodice.  I folded a wide band of fabric in half, wrong sides basted together, and sewed it to the right or correct fabric side of neckline.  Then I turned the band "upwards and inwards" to a preferred coverage and drape. 

Not-so favorite Features:
* Hemming the double-layered front.   To avoid "bulk" at  the lower edge due to the double layer of fabric to hem, I would cut the left front (under layer) a few inches shorter.

 * The gray band of print that transverses my bust area.  I was confidently certain in my pattern piece placement on the fabric prior to cutting that I would not obtain the "bullseye" effect, more noticeably from the cheetah or leopard spots. The minute I saw in the mirror the gray band strewn across my chest, I saw an illusion of me wearing the top of a halter maillot or some bikini top! I now accept it as a "design feature" to make myself feel better.


Modifications/Alterations
I made my typical adjustments: taking in the upper center back seam by 1/2" and making a 1" petite adjustment at the waistline.

Recommendation:
I was surprised that I had not sewn this pattern much sooner! Although it is currently "out-of-print", I still would recommend it for being not only very easy to sew, but for the varied style options as seen by the five views shown on the pattern envelope.

Conclusion:
I was bold to wear my new top to work the day before yesterday and was surprised to receive positive comments from female students. "I liiiiiiiiike (like) your top, Mrs B.  It's nice on you."  My gracious "Thank You" followed my initial reaction to myself of "Huh? Really?"

Often I hear students joke around with each other making me a skeptic about the statements they make in class.

Scene in my classroom from a few years ago and entering my early 40's:

Me (directed to the entire class) : Geez, my hair is already getting more gray due to worrying about you, especially where your grades are concerned.

Student (blurted out from his seat, with a puzzled expression on his seat) : Oh, Mrs B, you mean you have naturally gray hair?  You seem still young for that.  I thought you go to your hairdresser to get those "frosted" touch ups.

I thought that sounded and tasted like another type of Bologna Sandwich!

Then I found out some serious meat: his mom at that time actually had her hair "frosted".

  

Update, May 28, 2012

 
With the remaining fabric, I sewed the view with the scoop neckline. I used Jalie 2921 for the short sleeves, which worked nicely due to no extra ease in the sleeve caps. I dropped the neckline 1/2" from the center tapering to 0" at the shoulders, which is still higher than what I prefer.

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Just Faux Fun

I was inspired by the versions of the dresses and tops created by previous reviewers of this pattern.

Pattern Description:
 Raglan top/dress with faux wrap front with sleeve options. Also there is a pattern for a pair of pants. I sewed the shorter dress with the cap sleeves. I replaced the buckle and hoop piece with the same tie used for the right front wrap. Pattern Sizing: Size 8-16. I sewed a "12" at the top and a "14" elsewhere. If I had followed my intuition, I would have sewed an "8" at the shoulders and the bodice.

Faux wrap dresses are still trending!

Alfani faux wrap dress with a side tie for nearly $90.

Directions
They were satisfactory except for some confusion that I encountered at step 4.   I was puzzled at the diagram which appears to be an error for the right front (what I call the "over drape") to be attached to the back. It appears to be reflected to look like a "left front". At first I thought I had cut the pattern piece in the wrong direction. Several reviewers mentioned this diagram. Apart from step #4, if you have sewn wrap dresses before, you should experience very little or no difficulty in following the directions.

 Fabric
I used a cotton jersey with what seems to be lycra.  I like the festive colors and the "paint splash" effect of the print.  If I were asked to give this print a name, I would say "Splashes of Samba".

Favorite Features/Not-so Favorite Features
 I like wrap dresses in general: faux and true wrap dresses. The dress as a whole was simple to construct with the notches matching nicely. The right overlay consists of three pleats that clevely conceals my tummy and is figure flattering.

The only things that I am not fond of were (a) the kimono sleeves that overwhelmed my frame, which I eventually shortened to provide a better aesthetic balance, and (b) the uncomfortably low neckline with the extra ease. My "quick fix" is later explained in the "modifications" paragraph.


 Pattern alterations or any design changes:
*Took in the center back seam 1/2" for a total of 1" to reduce some gaping at my upper back.

 *Made my usual 1" petite adjustment at the "waistline" printed at the left front, right front, and back pattern pieces.

 * My left front of the dress experienced some gaping. Since the right front wraps over the left,  I could easily control how tight or loose of the wrap will be with the side ties.  As for the left I could not, because it had been already stitched to the left side seam.  To simultaneously reduce some gaping and to raise the neckline to a more comfortable level, I pulled out a "wedge" of fabric (approximately 1" from the corner) from the left front where I experienced the gaping, so that it pushes out some extra fabric beyond the original side seams and raises the neckline accordingly.  Then I re-stitched the left side seam from a higher point beneath the armscye. Not a pretty sight from the inside, but at least I would not have to worry about unwanted extra exposure. Here is a picture of my quick fix:

 * I removed 3" from the lower hem.

I plan to sew the top version with the short sleeves after a few adjustments to the pattern pieces. I still recommend this pattern for its on-trend style and ease of construction. You are one of the fortunate ones if this pattern fits you perfectly out of the envelope!

Forever Jalie 29-21

Here we are again at Forever Twenty-One, for a semi-frugal and guilt-free shopping experience.

This Saturday I wore my new version of Jalie's scarf-collar top, #2921 in a viscose/rayon jersey knit from EOS. 

Just a few days ago, I unraveled the mystery of the "burrito" method for finishing the collar.  It is done before sewing the center front seam.  It does not work when there is no center front seam, which I avoided for my first and second versions.  Otherwise, it is impossible to pull the rolled up fabric of the front and back through the "tube" formed by the collar sewn right sides together (process done after the "right" or "visible" side of one edge of the collar is attached to the "wrong" or "not visible" side of the neckline). Instead of pulling the fabric through one tie end of the collar,  I pulled it through  a  1 1/2" gap approximately 8" from one tie end.  Then I stitched the gap closed 2 mm from the edge to make it less conspicuous when making a neck bow or adding a slide through buckle.

From left to right;
Fourth, second, first, and third versions

Now, returning to our most recent visit to Forever 21:

Once we entered through the second level of the store, we gravitated towards the accessories department with the earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. 

Heather's items: a set of bangles,  a purple bracelet with interwoven designs, a pair of "Eiffel Tower" earrings, a faux rhinestoned cheetah, a necklace with an anchor pendant, and a set consisting of six pairs of earrings (a pair of white flowers, faux diamond 6 petaled flowers, ribbons tied in bows, miniature finger rings, birds in flight, and little balls formed by wound "chains".

My items: a purple hinged bangle embossed with faux rhinestone flowers at the edges, a pair of metal earrings that simulate colorful feathers, an owl necklace, and a pair of goldtone and black zig zagged dangling earrings.  The "parallelograms" and the "trapezoid" at each apex did not come out clearly between the black zig zags. 

The Forever21.com website also sells them.  This photo does not capture the glistening of the metal. These would complement my top nicely.

Also from the website ,"rhinestone flower hinge bracelet".

 

From the girls' section, some tops to update Heather's summer wardrobe:

A knit kimono sleeved top with a laced back for $12.90 and made in the U.S.A. yeah!

A tank for $2.90 that can be worn underneath the gray top.

For a fashion fan-da, a beary cute t-shirt for $8.90

To go with the tops, a pair of denim shorts.

Heather likes the tie to cinch the waist.

For my mom, a polka dotted and floral (jade colored background) breezy top, with an elasticized and clasped belt.  I also purchased for my mom a polka dotted, knit top with a ruffled front

 As for jewelry, it will be "authentic" instead of the  "baubles and beads" for her. She rarely wears the "fake" stuff. She would probably like Macy's 14 karat gold "Diamond Cut Marquise Filigree Drop Earrings".

After paying at the register, posing in front of the F21 ladies in their current summer attire.

I wonder how often the outfits on the mannequins are changed.

Three weeks ago during our previous visit.  Heather added a little more attitude to the group.

 
Heather with an "attitude adjustment" for the current display, and wearing an Abercrombie and Fitch top amidst the Forever 21 outfits. Heh heh heh...

 I received a rock transformed into a ladybug.  Thanks, Heather!

Happy Mother's Day!

The Bold and the Bow-tie-ful

 Oh, no another Jalie 2921 scarf top! I wore this to work today.  It is a derivative of my original.

 

 Not too long after making my original Jalie 2921 scarf collar top, I quickly started the second in a poly knit. While attaching the neck tie collar, my two ties met at a point just below my right shoulder, where my left tie surpassed the center front and my right tie stopped before center front. Surprisingly, I actually liked the result! Raising the neckline neckline was not necessary due to the "pull" of the tie being transferred to the side.

  

Original top in a viscose lycra knit with "equine"-tessential print

Third "fun-sized" version:

Two looks from the same pattern.