Ruffle-Y Speaking

I like the look of this very feminine, yet very alluring top!
(Saksy's Just Cavalli Ruffled Blouse for $625!)







Likes/Dislikes
* I liked the overall style and fit!
* The ruffles draped the neckline nicely. Since they did not flare out, they would not overwhelm those with petite frames.

*Ruffle took longer than expected. It would have been easier to make a "rolled" hem.
*Need to wear a modesty camisole because the neckline came lower than expected.
*I encountered a little problem aligning the front facing with the bottom edge of the ruffle. Even though I snipped the corner prior to folding the facing inward, I had to do some pressing so that the ruffle's bottom corner remains intact.
*The construction is straightforward but is time-consuming, especially making it for the first time.

Modifications
*Decreased the width of the front and back darts

*Changed the orientation of how the sleeve cuff was attached to the edge. I am accustomed to placing and stitching the cuff on the outside (right side of the sleeve). Then I folded the cuff lengthwise right sides together, stitched at the edge and turned the cuff to the outside.

Conclusion
I would definitely make this blouse again by raising the neckline, slightly lowering the armscye and adjusting the sleeve heads accordingly (for a little more freedom in arm movement.

I like Burda overall for providing patterns that yield cutting edge but still classy styles and that indescribable distinctively flattering fit. I highly recommend this blouse if you are familiar with basic shirt construction and if you like to wear a top that combines the look of a classic shirt with a touch of feminine and frilly flair!

Jolie, Jolly, et Jalie!


I like the flattering style of this INC V-neck top:


Here's a nice substitute, Jalie 2682!





I am #17 (pattern reviewer) hopping aboard the Jalie bandwagon
Here are the events leading to making this top (the pattern pieces had been traced several days ago):
(1) I received two boxes of goodies (on-line purchases) from Macys.com, one day after the other. The prices were great! For instance you cannot go wrong with an $80 top selling for $12.99! But I did...
(2) I tried on all the goodies and was disappointed that only four (better than none at least!) of the fourteen items the fit nicely! Some items looked better on the online pics than in reality; one blouse was too large and others definitely would fit my sister with the supermodel figure. For instance, a cute misses' size 12 shirt fit like a 5/6 in juniors! Maybe that's why it was so cheap! I immediately returned the items to my neigborhood Macy's.
(3) I should have learned this lesson from previous on-line purchases to "Try before I buy" or
(4) Sew my own clothes

Pattern Description
"Stylish V-neck top, raised neckline at back, with or without sleeves. View A has a zipper at front neckline for more coverage. I sewed the non-zippered V-neck front, view B.

Size
Multi-sized, 27 sizes, from child to adult! I thought I would not use a pattern sized for children and adults. I made my daughter a dress version of the child's v-neck top two weeks ago. For mommy's version, I sewed a "Y" equivalent to US size "12". With the fabric I was using I could have sewn a "W".

Likes/dislikes
* I liked the overall style and fit of this top!
* The top is very easy to sew. My second version took only 2 hours to sew (sans tracing and cutting time)
* I like the polished look of the v-neckline. I did not have to fiddle with the neckline to prevent gaposis as in other tops!
* I sewed the sleeves in flat, with no problem.
* I savored the opportunity to read French and increase my French couture vocabulary. Sewing now looks and sounds so romantic. Oui, oui, oui!
* I liked the convenience of 27 sizes in one pattern!
* I got over my initial dislikes of the pattern (tracing the pattern, vague directions) once I sewed it once and knew what to expect.

Directions
Whoa! When I sewed this for the first time (Heather's version), I was quick to jump into the first step of sewing the front bodice pieces together (self-facing and visible portion) at the center line, up to the marked circle. Then I kept referring to the illustration after turning the front bodice, so that the line of stitching became the center seam of the v-neck and the top seam of the two pieces became the neck's back center seam.

Wait....Something seemed very wrong! I had to remove the stitches because I was sewing on "right" side of the fabric instead of the "wrong" side! Then I discovered that Jalie referred to the shaded side of the fabric as the "wrong" side whereas in other familiar-maker patterns the shaded is the "right" side of the fabric. Oops! Once I got beyond that first hurdle, things started coming together, so to speak!

Overall the directions were brief and to the point (i.e. sew back to bodice back....huh?). The illustrations helped, even though there might be a discontinuity from one step to another due to steps that were common to view A and B.

Fabric used
Nice knit with groovy "Erte-esque" looking print, dotted with small sequins, from Gorgeous Fabrics. Heather's dress has the same fabric.

Modifications
* Eliminated the back center seam for a continuous flow of the print and design of the fabric.
* Shortened the length by 1". The top is still a little long, but I prefer wearing my tops that way.
* Shortened the sleeves to give the top another dimension.

Conclusion
I would rate my first experience with Jalie not so bad after all! It was a matter of getting acclimated to the experience of tracing the patterns and deciphering the instructions. Hmmmm...maybe this will prepare me for the journey to Burda WOF (waiting for 6 weeks to receive my first official issue!)

I plan to use this pattern again and again! It's now one of my favorites! I purchased two other Jalie patterns and also am looking forward to using them!

I definitely recommend this pattern if you want something tres chic that sews quickly and easily after being familiar with Jalie instructions.

Flower Puff

I revisited Burda 7942 as my "tried and true" shirt pattern:



Lepore's Harry's Bar Jacket from SFA for $430 from last year. The sleeves are still "in" now!


I replaced the cuffs with lantern or tulip sleeves which are so "in" right now!




Fabric Used
Lightweight corduroy with floral print

Modifications
* Shortened the upper part of the sleeve to the cutting line for the short sleeve version.
* Replaced the cuffs (used in my first version) with lantern or tulip sleeves which I drafted. My original draft seemed too long and overpowering that I folded each in half, gathered the bottom and slipstitched it to the inside seam.
* I took in the top center back seam (just below the neck) another 1/2" to eliminate the bagginess.

Conclusion
This is definitely one of my all-time favorite shirt patterns! This version took a little longer due to adjusting the center back and fussing with the sleeves so that it balances well with the rest of the shirt. I enjoyed trying to do something different for the third time around.



Very feminine and chic!


(Saksy's Just Cavalli Ruflled Blouse for $625!)

Here's Burda 7891. I just received this (finally) from PR


I cannot wait to sew this one!

Chained, Tied and Checkered

Some blouses with neck ties:
Lepore's Classical Charmeuse at Nordy's for $325:



French Connection's 'Celebrate' Tie blouse from Nordy's for $118



DKNY Jeans' Printed Chiffon Blouse with Tie


Style and Co's charmeuse from Macy's for originally $49

and those ruffled sleeves
O Oscar's silk pleated ruffle top for originally $109!

Combine some of those elements to get:
HP's 1002 Metro Tie Me Down Blouse!






Finally, my two hot patterns arrived just short of two weeks (11 days after I placed my order)! I worked on it shortly after receiving it in the mail! It was worth the wait!

Pattern Description:
Blouses with front tie, shirred shoulders, shirred center back and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: Multi-sized. I used a "14"

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, but in a boldly printed fabric! I thought I would take one more pic by Heather's pink holiday tree before we put it away.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes and the accompanying illustrations were helpful. A first time sewist might need an additional illustration to see how to place the tie on the neckline. Overall, I like the new user-friendly format!

What did you particularly notice about the pattern?
* I liked the overall style with the ruched shoulders which give the blouse a nice drape and the gathered bell sleeves.

* The blouse was very easy to construct (no buttonholes!) and took me only a few hours!

* The blouse consisted of the front, back, tie, sleeve and the front and back facing pieces. I started getting somewhat cross eyed from looking at the grooves on the pattern pieces as I was cutting each to a size "14"!

* As mentioned by previous reviewers, the notches are so lightly printed that I also overlooked them as I was cutting the fabric!

* I found the top to be somewhat loose fitting than what was described and pictured on the envelope. This could be attibuted to the drape of the fabric I was using.

Fabric Used:
Chain link printed knit from GF

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Since I do not have elastic thread available for the shirring at the shoulders and the center back, I stretched sewed 1/4" elastic on the wrong side of the fabric. I skipped the third row of ruching at each shoulder to not further add more bulk.

Instead of starting 2" from the sleeve hem with the first row of ruching, I gathered one instead of three rows 6" from the sleeve hem due to personal preference.

I discovered that the entire neckline facing (v-neck facing attached to the back facing) was a bit large as I was pinning it to the neckline. To adjust the neckline facing, I cut out an excess of a little over an inch from the combined shoulder seams and restitched the seams.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I plan to make another one or two in another month or so, but using elastic thread. I might go down a size and/or include front darts for more shaping, I definitely recommend it and agree with the rating "Advanced Beginner" specified on the envelope.

Conclusion
I like this blouse's distinctive details: the gathered/shirred shoulders and sleeves and the tie below the neck and that can be worn over a skirt, pants, or jeans.

This is the second HP pattern that I worked with and have discovered that HP patterns seem to run a lilittle larger. Either that or the outfit was not drafted as it appears on the pattern envelope. Anyway, after making the first version, you could easily customize to fit.






******************************************************************************
I think I finished this just before the New Year!






This is absolutely a very easy dress to sew! I made this after my "Cars" gathered front knit top.

Features:
* One size, 14
* Slight aline style
* Bust darts
* Front center seam
* Omitted the zipper and replaced with a back seam due to the knit.
* Long vertical darts at the back.
* Facings for the neckline (front, back) and armholes
* Hand sewed the hem.
* Retro chic, but so "in" right now!

Another nice top that I would like to copy!
BCBG Silk Charmeuse from Macys' originally $178
Built by Wendy Bodice + Simplicity's Very easy kimono sleeves ?

What's Your Pleather or Paisley?

Juicy Couture's red pleather jacket from Saksy's for $328!!! What in the world?!




Vogue 2958



I made two versions of this freebie pattern.

The first was from "pleather" (total cost under $10!). As I can see from the puckers, I had difficulty working with this fabric.


The second from a lightweight corduroy. It actually looks better up close and personal.


Rating: Average

I got this as my freebie pattern from Vogue Patterns. I was lured by the stylish jacket!

Pattern Description:
Misses'/Misses' Petite Jacket, Bustier, Dress, Skirt and Pants. I made Jacket A which "is fitted, lined to edge with shaped front and back princess seams, collar, back has darts with slit, full length sleeves with elbow darts and shoulder pads."

Pattern Sizing:
10-12-14. I made the "14"


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? In my opinion, the collar only!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. They were easy to follow and sufficient enough for an advanced beginner. The jacket overall was straightforward to construct, but time-consuming.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the overall style of the jacket (especially the unusual collar!) but it ended up being too form fitted for my taste, emphasizing my hips and my tush! The neckline came lower than what I expected and which could be remedied by wearing a camisole. The jacket consists of only six pieces, but I had to take into account cutting front facings made from the same fabric and the lining pieces (for the back, the side front, side back, and the sleeves).

Oh no! This jacket requires so much fusible interfacing. The first step was to interface the front, back, side front, side back and the collar. That's quite extensive because I usually interface only the collar and front facings. It would make sense to do, especially if I were working with fabric that frays easily. With the fabric I was using, I did not think it was necessary to interface the back and the sides. But I did so, anyway.


The side fronts and side backs did not ease well into the "L"-shaped curve of the front and backs of the jacket! It seemed as if the side front and back pieces belonged to another jacket! I had difficulty matching up the notches and pinning the seams together! I ease-stitched the side fronts and side backs (similar to ease-stitching sleeve heads).

The width of the shoulder section of the front came about 1/2" wider than the back shoulder (after the dart). I was wondering if the back darts were not taken into consideration when Vogue drafted the front. I ease-stitched the front shoulders. I adjusted the front shoulder seam to fit the back shoulder seam as I pinned the seams together.

Fabric Used:
Printed lightweight corduroy.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Shortened the sleeves by 1 3/4" By looking at the pattern envelope, the sleeves were a little past the model's wrist. The instructions were not clear on how to finish the hems of the sleeves after turning them up 2" (5 cm). I stitched a 1/4" baby hem from the raw edge, folded a 2" as instructed from the inside of the sleeve witht the baby hem tucked under, and slipstitched or hand sewed the new hem in place.

I drafted and sewed my own semi-circular shaped shoulder pads using the same fabric filled with some fleece remnants. I cut 4 pieces, two for each shoulder pad. I sewed two pieces, rights together at the curved edges, leaving the straight side to turn the pad pocket inside out. Then I filled the pad pocket with the fleece remnants. Then I sealed the filled pocket by sewing the edge with the raw edges tucked in and voila, an instant home-made shoulder pad!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'll give this pattern a rest for now I spent two full evenings working on the jacket. If I have a lot of time, I would sew this jacket again after redrafting the pieces. I would recommend it if you want to give yourself a challenge and you might have better luck than I did! I discovered after making the jacket according to my usual size, that it is more fitted than what is represented on the envelope! It seems like the size "14" fits like a "10" (a 10 petite?) in pattern sizing!

Conclusion
This is probably the first time that I have sewn an "Average" rated Vogue. I was disappointed in the outcome, but I might know a good friend who might like this and fit into this! So my efforts are not in vain! Now I am ready to sew a DKNY jacket (I already have the pattern pieces cut!)

Lighting McSheen






It's amazing how together light and angle can affect the appearance of a subject! Despite wearing a black knit shirt underneath, this top now looks a bit risque and naughty for my taste and possibly looks like something a good mommy and a woman past her 30's wear should not wear. I guess I am becoming conservative as time goes on. Now I know I how fabric and style can appear differently in front of a camera under various lighting and taken from certain angles!

Pattern Description:
Knit tops with gathered front and sleeve variations.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 6-16


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except for the fabric and fit.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, assuming that you are familiar with methods such as gathering and stabilizing shoulder seams. They were brief and easy to follow.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the pattern because it is very easy to sew (top of front bodice, bottom of front bodice, back of bodice, and sleeve pieces) and has a timeless style. The neckline came down to an appropriate depth for me. The only thing I did not like was the given method to finish the neckline.


Fabric
Checkered printed spandex-type knit for my first version. I would achieve a different fit with a drapier knit.


Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

*Sizing
I sewed a "10" at the shoulders, sleeveheads, and armholes, tapering to a "14" at the bust and hips. A "12" would have been for me at the shoulders.

*Finishing the neckline
According to the instructions, a band of the same fabric was sewn at the raw edge and turned inward to make a narrow seam. Instead, I used a piece of 1/4" elastic at the neckline for my sister's top (first version) which kept the neckline intact. For my top, I used 3 strips (3/4" wide) of mesh cut on the bias: one for the left front, the second for the right front, and the third for the back of the neckline. I cut each mesh strip about 1 1/4" shorter than the length of each section of the neckline. Then I slightly stretched, pinned and sewed each mesh strip 1/4" from the raw edge (visible or right side of fabric) and folded inward to sew a narrow seam.

*V-Shaped neckline
This is something I first did to my sister's top (the true first version of this top, in a smaller size)to further stabilize the neckline at the "v" point and to reduce the bunching made by the elastic. In desperation to save my sister's top, I snipped about 1 1/2" past the "v" point and join the edges together to make a little vertical seam at the center of the bust. Wow! The top looked much better! Then I noticed that one of my RTW knit tops had the same detail, except that the vertical seam was much smaller, about 3/8" !

So for my top, I snipped about 1/2" past the "v" point. I saw a little sweetheart neckline formed as a result of this, but that was fine with me.

*Sleeves
I sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of setting them in as instructed. Then I sewed the sleeve seams tapering off to the side seams of the top.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, but in a drapier knit, for a more modest and palatable look. If I wear my current top in public, I would wear it underneath a blazer.

I definitely recommend this pattern not only because it is quick and easy to sew but it is very versatile! Making a muslin would help to figure out if the neckline is at the preferred depth. You could get an entire set of unique looking tops by changing the fabric, style of sleeves, and adding decorative trim!

Conclusion
This is a definitely a very easy pattern and sews up quickly! I like the "arched" empire waist which makes the top more interesting!

Criss Cross Applesauce

I purchased this pattern because of the attractive red criss cross top!





Pattern Description:
New Look did not provide one. The pattern consisted of 5 versions of a knit mock wrap top with long or short sleeves, wrap tie options, and a criss-cross front I sewed version "A", the long sleeved top with the criss cross front and wrap tie.

** Note: There are actually 6 pattern pieces, not 7 as printed on the back of the envelope.


Pattern Sizing:
Misses' multi-size 6-16. I sewed a "14".


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for my fabric choice.


Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes! Sharon M describes and shows the process of the criss cross of the upper bodice very well!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that version "A" consisted of 4 pattern pieces (upper front bodice with front sleeve, lower front bodice, back with back of sleeve and the tie.

I could have gotten away with the center back seam and instead opt for cutting the back as one entire piece.

The criss-cross sections of the bodice took less time to construct than the wrap-around ties! They were one-sided and required hemming at the edges (a serger would be very handy and save so much time!). It would have been easy to cut the ties wider so that they could be folded in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitched along the side and one tie end and turned inside out at the other end!

I was happy that the neckline did not come low and gape as expected.


Fabric Used:
A mystery type of thin knit that is slightly sheer, somewhat slippery and tricky to handle, but hugs figure contours well and also gives a slenderizing effect!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
For my first version, I did not make any alterations. If I make any version of the top again, I would slightly lower the seam under the bustline while raising the neckline, maybe 3/8".

In making the narrow hems for the neckline and bottom edge, I sewed 1/4" from the raw edge, folded a narrow hem, tucking underneath the 1/4" allowance. I found that this method probably coupled with the type of fabric kept the neckline intact.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! This top would be ideal for sergers! If you enjoy sewing twist and wrap tops, then I highly recommend this pattern!

Conclusion
These tops are easy to construct and flatters all figures! After sewing this once, the next ones will be a breeze to whip up!

Dancing Princesses
Here are three ballerinas awaiting their winter dance recital (Heather's first!):





Heather, Sabrina, Aaliyah


Heather had the opportunity to get to know Sabrina better. Aaliyah is also 4 years old.

Naomi arrived at the chorus room (dressing room for the female dancers) cuing them to get set for their numbers. There seemed to be more action at the wings than on stage and in the audience! The curtains were closed behind the singers while they performed (what seemed to be an endless string of songs while the little dancers waited patiently and eagerly for their turn). The preteen/teen dancers were "trying" to cram some last-minute moves and lifts amidst the hushes and whispers.

Then "it's showtime"! The preteen/teen ballerinas performed the first version of Vivaldi's "Spring" and then the male dancers arrived onstage to dance with the ballerinas. As they left the stage, the darling dancing princesses arrived with their version of "Spring" (3:40 pm?) I was so elated and relieved to see my precious Heather perform her official first dance recital (technically her second one). She was dancing her heart away with her innocent face glowing with those expressive big and beautiful brown eyes looking somewhere, probably unaware of the audience in front of her. Little Sabrina probably panicked and bawled, running off the stage. She returned probably after mustering up more courage.

I was in my own little corner of a section in the wings, capturing a moment on film, near the floor to avoid being in the way of the other dancers and other stage "mothers" and also absorbing the effects of the spotlight which made the dancers appear pinkish. At least I had a fine view of Heather, despite certain circumstances, enjoying the spotlight and being a dancing princes for a brief instant. It seemed as if the little ladies were crammed altogether, which made it difficult for them to move freely and confidently. This was Heather's only dance which seemed to be an intense and uplifting experience. I felt that her father, grandma, and grandpa were tresuring this moment. As Jorgen asked Heather after the show, "Did you have fun?" The fun overrides any dance misteps and goofs that occur. What else can you expect from a child?

A description of Dec. 9, 2007. Just one of many "fun" and interesting days for us but most importantly, for Heatherina, the ballerina!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spring into Winter

My Vivaldi Ballerina fresh as springtime!




First impression: Easy to make!
Second impression: Not easy to make!
Last impression: Finally made!

I thought this would be an easy project to take on. I tried my best to copy a ballerina gown loaned to me by Heather's lead dance teacher: a gown that consisted of a velour spandex/stretch/knit leotard bodice and an attached semi-sheer nylon skirt adorned with strips of fabric flowers.

I admit it's my fault for procrastination, but I did what I can with time available after work and other responsibilities and duties. I waited three days prior to Heather's first ballet recital to create what I thought would be a quick and easy gown, which ended up being what I call a "creative challenge with certain constraints (time and materials)", but still a worthwhile experience.

Process
(1) I had a difficult time finding the material for the top and skirt! Maybe I was searching in the wrong places! At Joann's, Heather saw a ready-made "fairy" light purple leotard. I was originally resistant to buy it, thinking that I would find the material to sew the leotard. After my tireless search in Joann's and a nearby Yardage Town, we returned to Joann's and without hesitation, reservation, and regret, I purchased the RTW leotard, with the belief that it might fit Heather.

(2) Sew-on fabric flowers? Easy to find? No!!!!!!!!!!! It seems that when there is a purpose to shop, it seems that the shopping becomes purpose-less! We tried searching Michael's (finally found the pink holiday tree we wanted!), Yardage Town, and a shop that specializes in fabric flowers for special occasions for some little fabric flowers. Again...zilch! I could not find any pink, blue, purple flowers with each having a diameter of 1". If I did find little flowers with potential, they had stems. I told Heather that we give it one more try at Michael's. We went to the bridal/special occasion section at Michaels and spent about $20 in the little pink and light lavendar fabric flowers with stems, including Heather's $3 book of great illustrated classics for children. I cut off the flowers from the stems and hand-sewed them (one by one) onto the organdy ribbon strips. I made 6 strips (2 side, 1 back, 3 front) of flowers and one long one to tie around her hair bun at the back of her head.


While clearing the living room, I found one of Heather's artificial leis on the ground. If only this incident arrived before making her gown! Then
**light bulb **(that turned on a little too late!) I could have gone to a party supplies store and purchased several leis to take them apart for the vibrantly colorful fabric flowers (99 cents a lei!)!!

(3) Skirt: I was not able to find a semi sheer nylon mesh (probably used for the underlinings of window curtains) and opted for the closest I could find - a more delicate sheer mesh, more suitable for tutus. I hand gathered nearly 8 feet wide of the mesh using running stitches, being careful not to pull the thread and redoing the entire process. I took my time in pinning, hand basting. and machine stitching the skirt to the leotard. I hope that the skirt survives through one dance recital!


Conclusion
Heather was very excited to witness the process of sewing the gown and see the result! She became somewhat frustrated and disheartened when I experienced some difficulty in attaching the skirt to the bodice and in figuring how to make the bodice fit once I finally sewed the skirt. She saw my growing frustration with what seemed an impossible task to gather and re-gather the skirt with challenging fabric to work with and the bodice being somewhat tight below the torso and fitting lower on chest area after putting velcro ends together.

Simple solutions (ironically, after some thought):
For the tight bodice:
I sewed a 2" velour knit extension (made from remnants) to the velcro ends of the crotch of the leotard.

For the bodice that comes low:
I discovered this during the dress rehearsal. I kept Heather's pink spandex leotard underneath. She also would not have to worry about the gown's upper bodice edge gaping.

It's very valuable for children to see our frustrations and perseverence in what we do!

Yeah! Heather's dress survived after her first dance recital!

Have It Your Way!

It's time to build-a-jacket consisting of the following elements:

Collar and buttons:
Michael Kors Satin Swing Jacket from Macy's for 179.50


Gathered effect
Ella Moss' Charleston cropped jacket from SFA for $183:


Bell sleeves:
Kensie Girl's cropped jacket from Nordy's for $74:


Frenchi's bell sleeved jacket from Nordy's for $68:


and voila we get a jacket from Simplcity's 3538:


My pattern envelope:


My first version:


Finally, got it done by 3pm today (one evening and morning-afternoon!) This was more time extensive than I anticipated!


If you like the concept of building your own burger or building-a-bear, and so forth, then you probably will enjoy to have it your way and build your own jacket! It's like given a menu of 20 pieces and telling oneself, "I'll have a long, not cropped, high collar jacket with a gathered front, bell sleeves on the side, topped with two buttons and do not forget the lining!"


Pattern Description

Misses' jacket in two lengths with yoke, collar and sleeve variations. Originally upon looking at the pattern collection advertised on the Simplicity website, I was led to believe that the outfits were either inspired by Project Runway designs or featured on the famous tv show. Oops, I was duped! "Project Runway inspired" was far from my expectations, and the jackets pictured on the envelope look like reinvented styles of previous and current patterns. That sneaky Simplicity!

The "sketch and stitch from concepts to design to reality" page contains a croquis (from the French word meaning a rough draft: sketch) kit and some design tips, workroom tips, and a paragraph about acquiring and using inspiration to create an outfit or an entire wardrobe. The croquis skit is simply a printed template or layout of the design elements (low/high collar, types of sleeves, gathered or flat front) on which you can use tracing paper to sketch and slide from one element to another. There's even a sketch of a nude, bald and faceless paper doll to "try on" an outfit and sport a hairstyle of your choice! Another alternative would be to xerox several copies of the template and cut and paste. This sure reminds me of playing paper dolls and "fashion plates" ! I have not really watched an episode of Project Runway to safely conclude that Simplicity's croquis kit or the printed pattern elements comes close to playing Project Runway in the comfort and convenience of your home!

It was straightforward to figure out pieces I needed for the view that I wanted without spending the time to draw, paste cutouts of each design element, and color pictures. This would be definitely great for creating a storyboard or a bulletin board of inspirations and favorite designs to create a "dream" wardrobe.

Size
12-20. I sewed a "14".

Fabric Used
Mystery pinstripe rayon/polyester from Joann's clearance section for $2.50 yard. Total cost of jacket: well under $10!

Modifications/alterations
Nothing major. I sewed a small silver bead to each button's center to add a little spark. Each button had nice cutout design of a five-petaled flower which could be easily seen on lighter colored fabric.

My collar came out not as huge as pictured on the model.


Directions

This is the first pattern I used that did not have the full cutting layout shown for each view along with the list of the pieces by their labeled numbers. The cutting layout was shown for each "design element": collar (low, high), ), yoke (for low or high collar), gathered or flat front bodice below the yoke, sleeve (short puffy, long puffy, long with slit, belled past the elbow. In fact, I referred to the sketch of all 20 pieces and analyzed the pattern pieces after cutting to determine what I needed for the bell-sleeved view featured on the pattern envelope. Then I listed the pattern piece numbers next to the technical sketch.

The directions and illustrations were overall fine. I found it helpful to pencil mark the sections I needed for a particular style, paying attention to the references to the type of collar (low, high), front bodice style (gathered or flat), sleeve style (short puffy, long puffy, long with slit, belled past the elbow), and the type of yoke (for low or high collar).


What did you like/dislike about the pattern

I liked the overall jacket's silhouette and the slightly flared sleeves

The lining was sewn the same way as the jacket, but sans the collar. All of the lining pieces were cut from the same pieces used for the bodice, yoke and back. I noticed that the front interfaced facings were attached to the lining differently from the last time I sewed jacket/blazer with pieces specifically designed for the lining.

I sewed each of the interfaced front facing pieces (bias tape binding on the the free edges) to the front edge of the lining so that the wrong side of the front facing is on the correct side of the lining. Then to secure the front facing, I sewed along edges of the bias binding.

I like the fact the lining was easy to attach to the jacket. I sewed it to the edges of the jacket, right sides together. Then I turned the jacket right side out through one of the armholes. I was pleasantly surprised that the front facing stayed nice and flat beneath the front edges of the jacket!

I was not really too "jazzed" up about Simplicity's croquis kit concept, which seemed like a marketing ploy to me. I would have like the pattern better without it!


Would you recommend this pattern?

Yes because it provides the potential to create endless styling options! The jacket is somewhat boxy. I like princess seamed jackets due to their flattering fit, but it is sometimes fun to try something else for a change. The slightly gathered front adds some shaping in the bust area. I would caution about the length. Even the "long" version seemed like a slightly cropped-style jacket on me without adjustments!

But if you want an easy jacket to be done in less time, I would recommend the very easy Vogue jackets. Variations in style could contribute to increased sewing time. My bell ruffle sleeves and collar might be the culprits for time investment. But on a positive note, I was glad that the pinstripes of the top part of the sleeve lined up with the ruffle and that the pinstripes came out at an angle and symmetrical at the collar (that's too make up how the yoke stripes and bottom did not align due to the gathers)!


Conclustion

The jacket was easy to put together, but somewhat time-consuming than I thought for a simple design! It seemed as if I were making nearly two jackets with the addition of the lining for back and front yoke pieces, the front and back below the yoke pieces, and the sleeve portion above the bell ruffle. I have not used lining in awhile. But it does give the jacket some shape and needed layering, especially for chilly days!

I honestly did not care for the sketching and coloring page. Simplicity could have done away with this concept and replace it with the actual designs of what was featured on Project Runway!

Draping with Paisleys and Flowers

This is my second version of Simplicity 3682.


I recently purchased this wild fabric from Lucy's Fabrics (lucysfabric.com). Despite the vibrant colors and overwhelming print, it really is very comfortable and flattering. I don't think there's fabric like this in local stores! Burda WOF June 2007 issue featured this as the fabric of an alluring top.

"The back with a deeply plunging neckline in a mock wrap-over look is definitely the attention-grabber on this colourful jersey top with cutaway shoulders. The front is plain and high-necked. Team it with the matching skirt at left for a trendy, two-piece summer dress!"


I sewed the sleeves flat instead of setting in the sleeves per Simplicity's directions. Then I sewed the sleeve seams and the side side seams as one continuous seam.



Simplicity 3682:


Sleeveless drape top by Semantiks





Reader Comments
Seamingly Simple 9/16/07 It sure did work! Your top looks great.
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Em's Summer 9/16/07 Now this is a really cute blouse! Thanks for pointing out this pattern!
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Vonnevo 9/16/07 Lovely top and fabric ! !
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bunz 9/16/07 Oh, this is a definite winner!
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mikkim 9/17/07 Your top is adorable. Thanks for the review--I hadn't noticed this pattern before but it looks like a good one.
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ryan's mom 9/17/07 Fabric is terrific and it's a lovely style on you! This is a winner!!
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HeathersMom 9/17/07 Thanks for the sweet comments!
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Lisa Merry 10/13/07 Wow, that is such a cool fabric and the style looks great on you!
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Seamingly Simple 10/13/07 That fabric is so YOU! What a neat detail the built-in camisole is. I can see that this pattern will become a favourite. BTW, I like your new name but thought it was HeatherRisque when I first read it!
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cindy-lou 10/13/07 Heatherrique, I love your new name-- tres francaise, and very fashionable! I also LOVE your new top-- a real winner! I agree about knits-- occasionally you have to kiss a frog with them, but when they're good, they are really really good (like this time)! Great work!
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EveS 10/14/07 Umm, you got that at JOANNS?! I need to shop in your neighborhood!! I have that very same fabric aging nicely in stash...I bought it from a fellow PR member...only after it had been sold out @ Lucy's Fabrics!! (Burda used it in one of their mags, too.) Wow. Anyway, great top as always and great use of a fabric I absolutely love! I like the cami, too. (shelving my JoAnn's jealousy now) :)
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Em's Summer 10/14/07 Great fabric and great top! I saw the pic in the gallery and thought, huh? That looks like Heather's Mom. And when I looked at the review, I thought...that IS Heather's Mom. Great new name!
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