Greensleeve-less

Pattern Description
"Cocktails or after-work get-together, this delicate sleeveless overblouse with metallic sheen and hip sash and bow in 1920's style is perfect for a party!"

Size
Burda sizes 36-46. I sewed a "40" at the shoulders and armscyes, and a "42" at the bust and hips. Although I could have used a "40" in the bust and hips to reduce some volume.




Fabric
Designer cottom fabric from GorgeousFabrics.com


Favorite Features
* Nautical/sailor styled collar where a large rectangular piece covers the upper back of the top. The upper and lower collars are cut from the same piece and do not need to be interfaced ;-). The notches align nicely at the shoulder seams when basting the large collar piece to the neckline before sewing the front and back facings onto the neckline.

* Back facing

* Actually what Burda refers to as the "waistband" should be "hip band" because the belt/sash is situated well below my waistline (and also on Burda's dressform) which I prefer because it gives an illusion of a longer torso.

* This style seems to go well with any fabric (except knits)


Not-so-favorite Features
*If I had sewn the way it was printed, the neckline would have been EXCEEDINGLY low.

*Slight gaping at upper armhole and upper chest.

*The baggy and wrinkly back needs to be further adjusted. (My 6-year-old photographer literally and figuratively snapped that picture "behind my back.")

* Armhole facings. I could have used bias trim with the fabric I was using. I would keep the facings for heavier fabrics.


Directions
They were adequate. I got used to the "lay" the pieces instructions and finishing the edges of the facings and armscyes as usual without Burda mentioning to do so. However, I made sure that I did not sew the wrong sections that would warrant me to take out my handy dandy seam ripper (I did use it because I forgot to leave a slit at the lower left seam where the sash bow would be located). I re-read the step on collar construction. I sewed the collar and its facing along "its outer edges", right sides together, keeping the neckline section unstitched (where it will be turned inside out).

Before attaching the belt/sash, Burda has you gather the lower edge. I undid my "overgathering" else I would not not be able to slip the top over my head. It's best to try on the top with the gathers and adjust accordingly before sewing on the belt.

Based on my size, I cut a rectangular strip of fabric with a length of 80" and a width of nearly 7" of fabric for the waistband. The only "mind-boggling" moment for me was deciphering the waistband or belt/sash construction. I was not certain if the waistband piece was to be attached to the lower edge of the top before finishing the edges of the sash. So I did what I was comfortable with or what made sense to me. I created the belt/sash piece first before attaching it to the lower edge of the top. I sewed 3/8" from the edge right sides together, leaving a 3" gap to turn the belt inside out. I folded the belt in half, marking this section with a pin to attach to the right seam of the top (right sides together) at its lower edge. Then I pinned the rest of the belt, making sure the tie ends are evenly past the left slit before stitching the belt to the edge of the top. It's handy to have a serger to finish the inside seam formed with the waistband/belt.



Modifications
* As I traced, I raised the neckline 3" from the center tapering to 0" at the shoulders. I also adjusted the front facing and the collar to have the same contour.

* I made a petite adjustment. I took out 1" in between the bust and hips.

* Although not mentioned in the directions, I ironed on lightweight fusible interfacing to the front, back, and the armscye facings.

* I used french seams at the shoulders and the sides.

* From force of habit and not reading the directions carefully, I sewed the side seams before attaching the armscye facings, which made sense to me since I used French seams. However, Burda has you sew them onto the edges of the armscye BEFORE sewing the side seams. This process seems logical in order to anchor the facings in place.

* I added five buttons and buttonholes instead of using snaps.


Conclusion
I thought this waistcoat was simple (yet not a quick sew) to put together, although I made some detours from the directions. If I would make it again, I would decrease the length, more noticeably in the back . I highly recommend this pattern for its distinctive style, keeping in mind of the potentially