Puff and Stuff

Are you puff enough?
Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Stanton shirt, Macy's, $109. I also used white buttons for the second version of my Vogue 8557 shirt.

Mouseketeer? Valentino dress from 2006.

Three weeks ago, I made my second version of Vogue 8557 in cotton sateen.


Showing some sheen due to the lighting.

My first version of this puffed shirt. I don't think cotton twill is the best fabric for this style. I don't know why I selected this fabric. If there is a luau, then now I have something to wear. I could have used a fabric with a lighter weight.



Pattern Description
Blouses with princess seams, collar and sleeve variations. I sewed view A with the gathered sleeves with elastic casing.

Size
8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips. For my second version, I sewed a "10" at the sleeve caps to reduce some bulk. I used 1/4" elastic for my second version and 1/2" for my first version.

Fabric
First version: Twill cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Second version:Sateen cotton from Fashionista Fabrics.


Directions
I thought the directions were fine for advanced sewers and above. The pattern's specified label of very easy is misleading because it should say easy, but time consuming. Something basic such as a 2 piece knit top I would consider very easy, but not a shirt with princess seams, front facings, buttonholes, a collar, and puffed sleeves with an elasticized casing at the lower edge. I spent as many hours as I would sew a lined jacket. The second took less, but not significantly less time. I fussed with the collar, french seams, and hand gathering the sleeve caps.




This is probably one of those rare instances when I sewed the back and side lower hems BEFORE attaching the front facing. Usually I hem the entire shirt after turning in the front facing. When attaching the front facing which extends about 1/2" beyond the front edge, I would exercise caution when stitching the front facing onto the front facing (right sides together) along their lower edges (perpendicular to the grain of the fabric), so that the stitching would align with the rest of the hem after trimming the seam and turning the entire front facing inside out. I positioned the needle about 2 mm below seems to be the lowest edge of the hem. Otherwise, if it were stitched higher than that, the edge of the front had a tendency to "twist" under due to some misalignment coupled with the bulk of the fabric and interfacing. As a result, the front edge would end being a tad shorter than the lower hem located just behind the front princess seams.

Favorite Features
* Collar size
* Contoured fit
* Princess seams
* Slightly dropped shoulder, de-emphasis of waist line


Not-so-favorite Features
*Does appear to run a size larger.
*No back facing below collar
*Second's version unstable elastic casing. After even one short arm movement, the sleeve tended to ride up against my upper arm which was more apparent in my second than the first version. For my first version, I used wider elastic and cotton twill fabric which provided more resistance. Is should have adhered to my instince to use arm bands for my second version for a sleeker style, but I guess Vogue was aiming for the bunched look at the lower sleeve hems.

Modifications
*Shortened 1" at length adjustment line.
*Used French seams to avoid dealing with fraying fabric
*Hand gathered the sleeve caps

Conclusion
It seems as if this style would be better suited for figures with broader backs and shoulders. If I do plan to make this shirt again, I would use lighter weight fabric. I still recommed this style if you like the flattering look of princess seams and the 80's look of the short, puffed sleeve.