Twists of Fury

Twist tops in the spotlight:
Chadwick's twist front top in poly matte jersey.

From Bloomindale's for $98, Lynn Ritchie's "Colloquial" twist front top in silk/rayon viscose.

Another Chadwick's front twist top modeled by Cathy Zeta-Jones? What will be her next movie gig?


Butterick's version (5283). I made the central twist version with long sleeves.

My first version, "Giraffic Park".

My second version, "Charlie Brown Fan Club"



My all-time favorite twistie top pattern has been Jalie 2788. I was not sure how this would turn out, being leery about "easy" patterns not fitting properly. It took me about 2 hours (including cutting) to complete this top.

Pattern Description
MISSES' TOP: Close-fitting, pullover tops have stitched hems. A, B: self-faced twisted upper fronts. C, D: self-faced twisted asymmetrical fronts. I sewed view B.


Size
I cut a "10" at the shoulders, a "12" at the armscyes and the bodice, tapering to a "14" at the sides. I was uncertain as to where the seam below the bustline would land. After making it, I was relieved that the seam did not land directly on my bustline. I wonder it it pertained to my choice of fabric.

Fabric
Poly/lycra/jersey purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics, over a year ago. This was the fabric I used for our matching Jalie twist front tops July of last year.

Favorite features
*Twist front
*Bodice is self-faced
*Neckline has soft gathers due to the twist and did not come low like a typical Burda WOF would on me.
*Pattern has 4 pieces: upper front (x2), lower front cut at center fold (x1), sleeve (x2) and back cut at center fold (x1)


Other features
* Top is really fitted on me, per description.

* Shoulder width seemed just a tad narrow

* After my first fitting, as mentioned in previous reviews of this view, the opening (formed after twisting the upper left bodice and attaching it to the lower left front from the marked dot to the side seam), revealed more than cleavage, such as undergarment color. I could have narrowed the opening (located on the center of the upper front, lower edge) by decreasing the length of stitching between the circles while sewing the upper bodice to its front facing, right sides together, before turning them inside out.


Directions
* They were adequate, except for the twist part (Butterick assumes that you know how to do it). A diagram that shows the direction of twist of the left section of the upper front bodice would be very helpful for the beginner sewist. The diagrams are reliable enough with a skim of the steps for the more experienced sewist.

* Preparing the upper front bodice was the first step where the bodice and self-facings were sewn right sides together along the upper edge (between the shoulders)and at the little low curve between clipped dots which mark the location of the twist.

* After turning the upper bodice inside out, seams along the sides and a portion of the armscye are basted to keep the facing intact.

* The lower right front is sewn to the upper right front bodice, stopping just before the apex of the lower front that has been already finished with a 5/8" hem, which could have been decreased lengthwise to After turning the upper left bodice 360 degrees, I attached the the bottom edge of the left side of upper front bodice to the lower front, from the side seam to the start of the twist, or what was originally one of the marked circles.

*The tricky part was sewing the bodice to the back at each shoulder, catching all three layers where the the self-facing portion had been lifted and pinned beneath the back. After turning inside out, I like the nicely finished neckline. However, for the second version, out came the seam ripper when I discovered that just below my neck and left shoulder, the edge upper front did not align with the back edge. Somehow the hemmed back edge slipped while I was stitching the three layers together. I re-stitched the shoulder seam and it turned out better.


Modifications
* Decreased the length by 3/4" at the adjustment line.

* Sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of setting them in.

* To reduce the the twist opening between the upper and lower bodice, I handstitched from each end 1/2" towards the center.

* To reduce the ease at each sleeve cap, I took out a maximum 1/2" from the edge.

* For the second version, I decreased the stitching between the circles (from approximately 2" to 1") that designate the portion where the upper bodice is twisted and where the stitching starts or ends when joining the lower edge of the upper bodice to the lower front or skirt piece. I notice the uneven distribution of fabric - my upper right side of my top had more bunching. I attribute this to the bulk caused by the double fabric. Maybe there was a good reason why Butterick drafted the gap the way it is, with the option to handstitch the corners???


Would you sew it again?
Yes, same view, but with shorter sleeves. I don't think I would be able to do a very nice job as my fellow PRers who sewed the asymmetrical twist version, which I am still afraid to try. I'll stick with the centered twist.


Conclusion
I definitely still recommend this pattern, being wary of the twist opening's tendency to be agape as drafted. Once you are familiar with fitting issues, if any, it really is a quick and easy top to sew!