Ruffle-ly Speaking

Two years ago, it seemed that our PR'ers were ahead of trends with their ruffle-trimmed tops and jackets! After browsing several websites, I notice that ruffles are just now coming in full force. I recently noticed that Chadwick's has drifted from 'Lois Lane' demure to 'Wisteria Lane' allure to increase company sales.



I decided it was about time to add some ruffles to my wardrobe. I recalled that it was a little over a year ago when I made a McCall's blouse with ruffles alongside the center front. I pulled out this McCall's from a little box (a former box with tangerines) containing my "to be sewed soon" patterns. What an opportune time (before fall begins) to have a sleeveless blouse in lightweight cotton.


This INC International Concepts top seemed to very closely resemble this McCall's pattern from Macy's, $59.

Also from Macy's is this Sunny Leigh top in circles print.




Pattern Description
Misses' tops and skirts. Fitted tops A and B have cut-in armholes, princess seams, front bands with ruffles, armhole facings and front button closure. I sewed view A the top with the collar and collar band. View A has 10 pieces to cut: Front (x2), Side front(x2), Back (x1), Side back (x2), Front band (x2),Collar (x2), Collar band (x2), Ruffle (x2), Front armhole facing (x2), and Back armhole facing (x2)

Size
Misses' 4-6-8-10-12 and 14-16-18. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, tapering to a 14 at the waist and hips.

Fabric
Cotton voile from EmmaOneSock.com


Favorite Features
* Ruffled front - one edge contains a narrow hem and the other edge is gathered and sewn along the visible or right side of the front edge before attaching the front band.

* "Cutaway" armholes

* Princess seams


Issues Encountered
*I was skeptical about using the armhole facings. Interestingly enough, I was not able to successfully align the armhole facing to the armscye. I opted for another method to finish the armscyes.

*The armholes (originally floppy and loose) became more fitted after I attached bias binding.

*My ruffle nearest the bottom hem seems like a wilting flower. Since McCall's models have their tops tucked in, I could not see if their ruffles acted similarly.

*My collar came out differently than expected.

*I have extra ease in the waist/hip area.

*I encountered some difficulty with sewing the buttonholes on a narrow band with my sewing machine.


Directions
Were adequately clear and straightforward. The lower edge was hemmed by section (fronts, back). I thought this was strange because I thought it would increase the likelihood of the fronts becoming misaligned at the bottom.

Modifications
* Made a 1" petite adjustment (shortened 1" at the marked line)



* Used French seams for all seams (sides, front, back, shoulders)


* Instead of sewing the front back on the outside with the right sides together, I sewed the front facing from the inside (right side of facing along the edge of the inside of the blouse). Then I turned the band to the outside with the raw edge turned under, pressed and topstitched along the edge. I did this to avoid handstitching the band to the inside seams.



* After not having luck with the armhole facings, I turned under the raw edge and sewed a 3/8" hem at the armsecyes. That did not work, because the sleeves became overstretched and unwearable to me. I decided to make the armscye work by machine gathering using loose and long stitches along the stitch and using bias binding. I adapted Meggie LuLu's slick binding method.


*I should have attached the collar first before turning the front to the outside and topstitching. I twisted the upper part of the front band in an unconventional way to tuck beneath the collar band. I didn't bother re-doing my goof and left the collar as is. That's what I get for sewing in a daze...



Conclusion
This top would have been simpler if I had not taken some strange detours along the way. But that usually happens to me when I work with a pattern for the first time. If I sew this top again, I would omit the ruffles for a change of style.

Nevertheless, I still recommend the top, especially for its fun and feminine style. Being versatile, it can be easily paired with jeans, slacks, or a skirt (mini to maxi). The sleeveless style coupled with a breezy fabric make it so ideal for summer.