Labor Intensive Shopping

Heather and I purchased some goodies at Joann's just his past Monday, Labor Day. Joann's may not have the best fabric, but I go there usually to take advantage of the pattern sales and use the coupons towards notions.



At first Heather selected some cotton quilting fabric printed with turkeys. I told her to select something else that can be worn for any season. She is now getting into the current trend of peace signs and agreed on the Snoopy/peace-signed themed fabric and since she likes the Curious George reading books, she adored the Curious George themed fabric. I was able to use my 40% off coupon for either fabric because they cost the same per yard.


Since the silkies were 30% off, I purchased 3 yards of the butterfly/floral print and also 3 yards of the green/brown/beige printed fabric that I hope to tranform into a wearable shirtdress. I have not worn a shirt dress for some time now. I just completed the McCall's big bow top in fabric I recently purchased from Fabric.com. I also purchased buttons for my shirtdress, two packs of fusible interfacing, a pack of 1/4" wide elastic and four spools of thread. I used my 10% coupon towards my entire purchase, and of course my JA pine green shopping bag.

The other stuff is from Walgreens (2 tubes of Almay foundation on clearance for $3.95 each, mascara, lipstick, spray-on sunscreen for Heather, a bag of Swedish Fish and Sour Patch candies, baby lotion (I am allergic to lots of things, but this I can handle), baby wash, and Heather's baby shampoo/conditioner (smells like a fragrant forest!)

Long and Winding Bow

I originally intended to the short-sleeved version of this blouse. I kept it sleeveless instead:


I discovered that just after sewing this top that coincidentally, according to Rolling Stone, that 9-09-09 is the official release date for the digital remaster of all the Beatles studio albums.

My ultimate favorite Beatles' song. My dad still has his two precious vinyl copies of A Hard Day's Night soundtrack, a household favorite when I was in grade school.

Pattern Description
"Loose fitted, pullover blouses A, B, C, D have self or contrast collar with tie ends, sleeveless or sleeves and stitched hem; blouse B has short sleeves with stay; blouse C has contrast collar collar and ie ends, bleow elbow sleeves wigth contrast cuffs; blouse D has long sleeves with placket opening and buttoned cuffs."

Size
Misses' 6-8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders and armscyes and a "14" at the bust and hips.





Fabric
"Beatles Faces" cotton fabric from Fabric.com. The last time I checked there were only 5 yards left. I received this fabric with other goodies yesterday.

Favorite Features
* Tie front
* Sleeve variations (long, short, sleeveless)
* Easy to make (if you do not fiddle with fitting issues)


Not-so Favorite Features
* I should have gone with my first instinct and cut a "12" at the hips. McCall's definitely meant "loose" without the "fitted" for its pattern description! After sewing the side seams, the blouse made me look frumpy. The top was tent-like and needed some shaping. I took in the side seams and that seemed not to be adequate. There was that unflattering billowing in front of my tummy.

* At first inspection of the front piece, I was deterred by the strong possibility of the neckline being low on me. I anticipated that the center front slit (created by the center front facing that was stitched along a "V" and trimmed close to the stitching) would further lower the neckline, although it would be covered by the bow.

*The wide tie cut along the bias. When folded in half along the fold line, the tie would be 4 1/2" wide and the collar, formed between the two large circles after sewing and turning the tie inside out, would be bulky. I think the tie would look better if the width was decreased by 1". The advantage to creating a tie this wide is that was very easy to place my hand in the tie and turn it inside out.


Direction
I Should Have Sewn Better
The directions were fine and did some steps on my own. The collar is sewn to the neckline before the side seams. From force of habit, I sewed the seams before attaching the collar.


Modifications
Try to sew it my way...
* Raised the neckline 1" at the center front tapering to 0" at the shoulders. I found that I had to adjust the tie, sewing beyond the large circles before turning inside out.

* Took in the center back 1/2". I could have taken another 1/2".

* Added vertical darts (3/8" widest at the center tapering to 0" below bust and above bottom hem)

* Took in the side seams an additional 3/8"

* Made a 1" petite adjustment between the bust and hips

* Top stitched arm band to outside instead of inside

* Used French seams at the sides

* Tucked neckband 1" under before topstitching the neckband close to neck seam


Conclusion
I Saw Her Sewing There

For what seemed an easy top took longer due to fiddling with the side seams and adding front darts for a more fitted look. This top did not work "straight out of the envelope" for me, but at least I know what to expect when making the short-sleeved version. The pictures on the envelope were misleading to me. I suggest making a muslin before using ritzy fabric. Putting aside my fitting experiences with this pattern, it is a simple (no buttons, zippers...) top to sew.

Saturday Outdoor Sewing Sale

Last Saturday, August 29, Heather and I went to a "seamstress garage sale" advertised on an email directed to all employess of my school district. The items belonged to the mother of one of the employees who used to teach sewing and other courses. I was curious as to what items would available. The home is not too far form ours.

When I drove past the home, I was intimidated by the many boxes of "junk" in front of the garage and the crowded looking garage. Heather suggested that we just take a look. I agreed and who knows, we might find something interesting. We parked our car near a corner and walked past a few homes before walking to the driveway. The boxes in front contained many odds and ends of colorful fabric that did not intrigue me. Many seemed to be about a yard of remnants that seemed to need laundering. As we entered the garage through what seemed to be the only walkable path, Heather "spotted" some stretchy cheetah fabric and immediately snatched it. It was the only fabric on the shelves that she liked. There was fabric with some interesting print, but I passed for fear that I would stay longer than I should.

Then we met a friendly lady, one of the daughters of the late seamstress/teacher. She asked what I was looking for and told her retro/vintage patterns. She responded that she has a whole bunch of those and pointed to a Simplicity drawer (just like the ones in fabric stores) replete with vintage patterns, of which most if not all were from the 1970's and possibly early 80's. Many were in plastic bags that included their directions and seemed to be missing their original envelopes. Just when I was ready to go through a drawer in further detail, the lady welcomed us to her home and took out two boxes of patterns and placed them on a kitchen table. Heather was eager to locate some children's patterns and became disappointed when most of the patterns were for teens and adults.



She was intrigued by a 1974 Simplicity pattern's envelope having illustrated models wearing flared pants with cute shirts with buttoned front and puffed sleeves. I would also agree with her on this style and would not mind having the same version in my size!



There were so many patterns thumb through and we did not have the time to stay (especially with the heat) so I just picked up what I could easily make such as a 1970 "super simple" from Simplicity.




I also took an early 90's tailored short jacket, a la The Nanny (Fran Drescher). Then the lady pointed to the living room where there were more boxes of patterns! Oops! I could not turn down her offer! I found a cute dress from McCall's with a criss cross back and an "It's So Easy" princess seamed top with cap sleeves. There were many "enticing" styles, but what prevented me from not grabbing more than the 10 we purchased were that many of the sizes were in the 8-10 range. Again, there were few children's patterns in the boxes.

On our way out of the garage, I found some glenplaid for Heather's skirt. Each folded piece of fabric was $1, a super deal. Altogether, with the 10 patterns, and Heather's cheetah fabric, I spent $12. Just as I had planned, we did not walk out with an armload of stuff.

This actually was my first (and Heather's) garage sale experience.

Hello Kitty Kouture

On Saturday, Heather and I went to Macy's and on Sunday, Sanrio (Hello Kitty merchandise). I bought her some things as rewards for doing well in school. She received a nice report from her teacher and was just promoted to a higher reading level/group. I did not expect to a little too far with the rewards. I think there should be a limit as to quantity and cost...





I also purchased for Heather a cocoa brown velour yoga pants and a floral top with a tie and pleated front. I used my $15 coupon card. However, it does not work for "everyday value" items, special buy items, and possibly items that have already been discounted. I think that there are too many restrictions on these extra discounts. The card is a ploy to get you to purchase more! I included the top to be able to qualify for the $40 purchase of the acceptable items. I ended up paying nearly $90!

Somehow we drifted to the jewelry department. I told the sales associate that I was interested in new earrings for Heather as an alternative to the Princess hoops she has been wearing, especially where safety is a concern. I discovered from the sales associate (also a substitute teacher at C. Elementary School) that hoop earrings where a child's pinky finger would fit through is not permitted according to district/school policy. I purchased a box of 4 sets of earrings for Heather and a pair of hoop earrings for myself. The "bridge" set were discounted 50% and an additonal 15%. I do not think that this purchase would have qualified for the bonus discounts.

At Sanrio, L. A. shopping mall,
Whoa, talk about crowded. I was lucky to find a parking space available after a car backing out of it, nearly to the other end of the mall!

Heather purchased a HK lanyard, an HK shell necklace, a little 3-drawer HK organizer, 2 Kuromi rings, 1 "Brad" ring, and a Hello Kitty plastic ring (later she discovered that it was also a stamper when it came apart). These cheaper rings were cool alternatives to the pricier ones. Once we made our purchases at Sanrio, we went straight to our car

Brooke Sh-leeves

I made this top last May.






I vaguely remember Brooke's fashion line for McCall's consisting of practical and stylish clothes in the 80's. Now we have Hilary Duff partnering up with McCall's.

I have several Brooke Shields patterns. This is the first one that I actually sewed up.

My version in embroidered linen fabric from Emma One Sock. This is the second time I sewed in this fabric.

I was a Brooke Shields fan in my teens and I am still a fan of her now. She has survived well in show business considering the media frenzy that permeated during her youth.


Here's Brooke on the Emmy red carpet looking stunning in red!



She also looks fab in a crisp white shirt from NY & Co.


Pattern Description
1986 dated pattern licensed from Brooke Shields and Co.

The pattern envelope mentions that is a "Learn to Sew for Fun" pattern, which seems very suitable for beginners or those who like patterns that describe some methods in more detail.

"Misses' blouses and camisole: Fitted blouses with scoop neckline and camisole have princess seaming and button closings. Blouse A has three-quarter length sleeves with gathered caps and tie cuffs. Blouse B, with short sleeves, and sleeveless bouse C have shaped front hemline. A and B have sleeve heads. Lined, strapless camisole D has left side button closing..." I sewed View B.

Size
One-size, Miss 12.

Fabric
Embroidered cotton linen from EmmaOneSock. This was left over from a New Look blouse with the gathered neckline.

Favorite Features
* Princess seams
* All the bodice pieces sew together very nicely, matching up at the notches, without having to ease the pieces.
* Flattering rounded neckline
* Short semi-flutter sleeves
* Curved hemline


Not-so-favorite Features
* I already found the the length of the top to be short, considering that I am short waisted. On 5'10" Brooke, the length seems fine for her, but I found that the pattern was drafted differently.

* The collar neckband needed to be lengthened a little in order to reach the front facings before turning them inward.

*The upper back needs to be taken in a little more.

Directions
In comparison to some of the current patterns such as those from Simplciity's Project Runway series, the layout is more user-friendly, the directions are sufficient, the illustrations are clear, and contains a sections that have tips on working with patterns, which can be useful for sewists are who are new to working with patterns. besides the cutting layout and the technical drawings of the viewsand pattern pieces, there is an entire section devoted to pattern shortening or lengthening, fabric preparation, types of pattern markings, and transferring pattern markings. Also, the directions for sleeve placket construction and setting in a sleeve are somewhat more detailed than usual.


Modifications
*Shortened the length between the bust and waist 3/4"
*Lengthened all pieces for the bodice 1 1/2"
*Used french seams at the sides
*Reduced the seams 1/8" to allow for more ease


Conclusion
With just another adjustment, I plan to use this pattern again soon. It does not take too long to sew, especially if you have experience with making button-down shirts. I cannot wait to try Brooke's camp shirt pattern and boho gathered front dress that I have in my stash. So far, I have been impressed with McCall's patterns from the 70's and 80's, in terms of the drafting, fit, and directions.

Greensleeve-less

Pattern Description
"Cocktails or after-work get-together, this delicate sleeveless overblouse with metallic sheen and hip sash and bow in 1920's style is perfect for a party!"

Size
Burda sizes 36-46. I sewed a "40" at the shoulders and armscyes, and a "42" at the bust and hips. Although I could have used a "40" in the bust and hips to reduce some volume.




Fabric
Designer cottom fabric from GorgeousFabrics.com


Favorite Features
* Nautical/sailor styled collar where a large rectangular piece covers the upper back of the top. The upper and lower collars are cut from the same piece and do not need to be interfaced ;-). The notches align nicely at the shoulder seams when basting the large collar piece to the neckline before sewing the front and back facings onto the neckline.

* Back facing

* Actually what Burda refers to as the "waistband" should be "hip band" because the belt/sash is situated well below my waistline (and also on Burda's dressform) which I prefer because it gives an illusion of a longer torso.

* This style seems to go well with any fabric (except knits)


Not-so-favorite Features
*If I had sewn the way it was printed, the neckline would have been EXCEEDINGLY low.

*Slight gaping at upper armhole and upper chest.

*The baggy and wrinkly back needs to be further adjusted. (My 6-year-old photographer literally and figuratively snapped that picture "behind my back.")

* Armhole facings. I could have used bias trim with the fabric I was using. I would keep the facings for heavier fabrics.


Directions
They were adequate. I got used to the "lay" the pieces instructions and finishing the edges of the facings and armscyes as usual without Burda mentioning to do so. However, I made sure that I did not sew the wrong sections that would warrant me to take out my handy dandy seam ripper (I did use it because I forgot to leave a slit at the lower left seam where the sash bow would be located). I re-read the step on collar construction. I sewed the collar and its facing along "its outer edges", right sides together, keeping the neckline section unstitched (where it will be turned inside out).

Before attaching the belt/sash, Burda has you gather the lower edge. I undid my "overgathering" else I would not not be able to slip the top over my head. It's best to try on the top with the gathers and adjust accordingly before sewing on the belt.

Based on my size, I cut a rectangular strip of fabric with a length of 80" and a width of nearly 7" of fabric for the waistband. The only "mind-boggling" moment for me was deciphering the waistband or belt/sash construction. I was not certain if the waistband piece was to be attached to the lower edge of the top before finishing the edges of the sash. So I did what I was comfortable with or what made sense to me. I created the belt/sash piece first before attaching it to the lower edge of the top. I sewed 3/8" from the edge right sides together, leaving a 3" gap to turn the belt inside out. I folded the belt in half, marking this section with a pin to attach to the right seam of the top (right sides together) at its lower edge. Then I pinned the rest of the belt, making sure the tie ends are evenly past the left slit before stitching the belt to the edge of the top. It's handy to have a serger to finish the inside seam formed with the waistband/belt.



Modifications
* As I traced, I raised the neckline 3" from the center tapering to 0" at the shoulders. I also adjusted the front facing and the collar to have the same contour.

* I made a petite adjustment. I took out 1" in between the bust and hips.

* Although not mentioned in the directions, I ironed on lightweight fusible interfacing to the front, back, and the armscye facings.

* I used french seams at the shoulders and the sides.

* From force of habit and not reading the directions carefully, I sewed the side seams before attaching the armscye facings, which made sense to me since I used French seams. However, Burda has you sew them onto the edges of the armscye BEFORE sewing the side seams. This process seems logical in order to anchor the facings in place.

* I added five buttons and buttonholes instead of using snaps.


Conclusion
I thought this waistcoat was simple (yet not a quick sew) to put together, although I made some detours from the directions. If I would make it again, I would decrease the length, more noticeably in the back . I highly recommend this pattern for its distinctive style, keeping in mind of the potentially

Lime After Lime

Then you say--sew slow--
I fall behind--
the second spool unwinds

If you're lost you can look--and you will find me
lime after lime...




Pattern Description
Misses' Jackets: Semi-fitted or loose-fitting, unlined jackets A, B, C, D are slightly below waist, have neck band, with or without front tucks, sleeves and sleeve length variations. A, B: front princess seams. B: sleeve tucks. C, D: shaped front hem. C: lined, two-piece sleeves.

Size
I used a size "12" at the shoulders, arms and a "14" at the bust and hips.


Fabric
Stretch cotton twill from EmmaOnesock.com




Favorite Features
*The gathered front below the upper yoke

*The tulip looking short sleeves

*The "L" shaped front facing.


Not-so-favorite features
* Came out shorter than what I had expected. A taller woman would need to lengthen the bodice.

* The high yoke and gathers below balloon out from my upper back

* I made a mistake of making a 1" petite adjustment, which I should not have done

* I did not like the jacket buttoned on me. It seemed as if I were trying to squeeze into a little girl's jacket. Heather can probably wear it.

Directions
In terms of clarity, they along with the illustrations are similar to a typical Kwik Sew. In terms of organization, I would not give it high marks due to sifting through steps that are unique to one view and those that are common to more than one view. I suggest being familiar with the layout and lightly penciling the steps that belong to the view of your choice.

Modifications
*Omitted the sleeve linings or the self-facings.

*Hemmed the bottom of the sleeves

*It was easy to overlap the front and back pieces of the sleeves. For my first sleeve, I was able to pin and baste them together, lining up their centers and the small dots. Then I became overconfident in doing the same with the second sleeve, thinking "this is easy"! However, I did not realize I misaligned the second sleeve until I noticed in the mirror that the overlap portion was lower than the one in my first sleeve (oops!). I had to use my seam ripper to unstitch the sleeve from the armscyes (ouch...) and redo the the overlap.


Conclusion
I recommend this jacket because I found it easy to construct (for me, I was remiss in aligning the sleeve during the overlap step), but not a quick project (i.e. handstitching the yoke facing to the inside seam at the neckline and handstitching the lower hem). I caution about the length for those who have longer torsos. You might be the lucky one to have this jacket fit and flatter you nicely.

Since I would have to put in more time (i.e. in redrafting the back, lengthening and making more adjustments) I plan to not use this pattern in the near future. Too many patterns and too little time!

Twists of Fury

Twist tops in the spotlight:
Chadwick's twist front top in poly matte jersey.

From Bloomindale's for $98, Lynn Ritchie's "Colloquial" twist front top in silk/rayon viscose.

Another Chadwick's front twist top modeled by Cathy Zeta-Jones? What will be her next movie gig?


Butterick's version (5283). I made the central twist version with long sleeves.

My first version, "Giraffic Park".

My second version, "Charlie Brown Fan Club"



My all-time favorite twistie top pattern has been Jalie 2788. I was not sure how this would turn out, being leery about "easy" patterns not fitting properly. It took me about 2 hours (including cutting) to complete this top.

Pattern Description
MISSES' TOP: Close-fitting, pullover tops have stitched hems. A, B: self-faced twisted upper fronts. C, D: self-faced twisted asymmetrical fronts. I sewed view B.


Size
I cut a "10" at the shoulders, a "12" at the armscyes and the bodice, tapering to a "14" at the sides. I was uncertain as to where the seam below the bustline would land. After making it, I was relieved that the seam did not land directly on my bustline. I wonder it it pertained to my choice of fabric.

Fabric
Poly/lycra/jersey purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics, over a year ago. This was the fabric I used for our matching Jalie twist front tops July of last year.

Favorite features
*Twist front
*Bodice is self-faced
*Neckline has soft gathers due to the twist and did not come low like a typical Burda WOF would on me.
*Pattern has 4 pieces: upper front (x2), lower front cut at center fold (x1), sleeve (x2) and back cut at center fold (x1)


Other features
* Top is really fitted on me, per description.

* Shoulder width seemed just a tad narrow

* After my first fitting, as mentioned in previous reviews of this view, the opening (formed after twisting the upper left bodice and attaching it to the lower left front from the marked dot to the side seam), revealed more than cleavage, such as undergarment color. I could have narrowed the opening (located on the center of the upper front, lower edge) by decreasing the length of stitching between the circles while sewing the upper bodice to its front facing, right sides together, before turning them inside out.


Directions
* They were adequate, except for the twist part (Butterick assumes that you know how to do it). A diagram that shows the direction of twist of the left section of the upper front bodice would be very helpful for the beginner sewist. The diagrams are reliable enough with a skim of the steps for the more experienced sewist.

* Preparing the upper front bodice was the first step where the bodice and self-facings were sewn right sides together along the upper edge (between the shoulders)and at the little low curve between clipped dots which mark the location of the twist.

* After turning the upper bodice inside out, seams along the sides and a portion of the armscye are basted to keep the facing intact.

* The lower right front is sewn to the upper right front bodice, stopping just before the apex of the lower front that has been already finished with a 5/8" hem, which could have been decreased lengthwise to After turning the upper left bodice 360 degrees, I attached the the bottom edge of the left side of upper front bodice to the lower front, from the side seam to the start of the twist, or what was originally one of the marked circles.

*The tricky part was sewing the bodice to the back at each shoulder, catching all three layers where the the self-facing portion had been lifted and pinned beneath the back. After turning inside out, I like the nicely finished neckline. However, for the second version, out came the seam ripper when I discovered that just below my neck and left shoulder, the edge upper front did not align with the back edge. Somehow the hemmed back edge slipped while I was stitching the three layers together. I re-stitched the shoulder seam and it turned out better.


Modifications
* Decreased the length by 3/4" at the adjustment line.

* Sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of setting them in.

* To reduce the the twist opening between the upper and lower bodice, I handstitched from each end 1/2" towards the center.

* To reduce the ease at each sleeve cap, I took out a maximum 1/2" from the edge.

* For the second version, I decreased the stitching between the circles (from approximately 2" to 1") that designate the portion where the upper bodice is twisted and where the stitching starts or ends when joining the lower edge of the upper bodice to the lower front or skirt piece. I notice the uneven distribution of fabric - my upper right side of my top had more bunching. I attribute this to the bulk caused by the double fabric. Maybe there was a good reason why Butterick drafted the gap the way it is, with the option to handstitch the corners???


Would you sew it again?
Yes, same view, but with shorter sleeves. I don't think I would be able to do a very nice job as my fellow PRers who sewed the asymmetrical twist version, which I am still afraid to try. I'll stick with the centered twist.


Conclusion
I definitely still recommend this pattern, being wary of the twist opening's tendency to be agape as drafted. Once you are familiar with fitting issues, if any, it really is a quick and easy top to sew!

Puff and Stuff

Are you puff enough?
Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Stanton shirt, Macy's, $109. I also used white buttons for the second version of my Vogue 8557 shirt.

Mouseketeer? Valentino dress from 2006.

Three weeks ago, I made my second version of Vogue 8557 in cotton sateen.


Showing some sheen due to the lighting.

My first version of this puffed shirt. I don't think cotton twill is the best fabric for this style. I don't know why I selected this fabric. If there is a luau, then now I have something to wear. I could have used a fabric with a lighter weight.



Pattern Description
Blouses with princess seams, collar and sleeve variations. I sewed view A with the gathered sleeves with elastic casing.

Size
8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips. For my second version, I sewed a "10" at the sleeve caps to reduce some bulk. I used 1/4" elastic for my second version and 1/2" for my first version.

Fabric
First version: Twill cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Second version:Sateen cotton from Fashionista Fabrics.


Directions
I thought the directions were fine for advanced sewers and above. The pattern's specified label of very easy is misleading because it should say easy, but time consuming. Something basic such as a 2 piece knit top I would consider very easy, but not a shirt with princess seams, front facings, buttonholes, a collar, and puffed sleeves with an elasticized casing at the lower edge. I spent as many hours as I would sew a lined jacket. The second took less, but not significantly less time. I fussed with the collar, french seams, and hand gathering the sleeve caps.




This is probably one of those rare instances when I sewed the back and side lower hems BEFORE attaching the front facing. Usually I hem the entire shirt after turning in the front facing. When attaching the front facing which extends about 1/2" beyond the front edge, I would exercise caution when stitching the front facing onto the front facing (right sides together) along their lower edges (perpendicular to the grain of the fabric), so that the stitching would align with the rest of the hem after trimming the seam and turning the entire front facing inside out. I positioned the needle about 2 mm below seems to be the lowest edge of the hem. Otherwise, if it were stitched higher than that, the edge of the front had a tendency to "twist" under due to some misalignment coupled with the bulk of the fabric and interfacing. As a result, the front edge would end being a tad shorter than the lower hem located just behind the front princess seams.

Favorite Features
* Collar size
* Contoured fit
* Princess seams
* Slightly dropped shoulder, de-emphasis of waist line


Not-so-favorite Features
*Does appear to run a size larger.
*No back facing below collar
*Second's version unstable elastic casing. After even one short arm movement, the sleeve tended to ride up against my upper arm which was more apparent in my second than the first version. For my first version, I used wider elastic and cotton twill fabric which provided more resistance. Is should have adhered to my instince to use arm bands for my second version for a sleeker style, but I guess Vogue was aiming for the bunched look at the lower sleeve hems.

Modifications
*Shortened 1" at length adjustment line.
*Used French seams to avoid dealing with fraying fabric
*Hand gathered the sleeve caps

Conclusion
It seems as if this style would be better suited for figures with broader backs and shoulders. If I do plan to make this shirt again, I would use lighter weight fabric. I still recommed this style if you like the flattering look of princess seams and the 80's look of the short, puffed sleeve.

Ruffle-ly Speaking

Two years ago, it seemed that our PR'ers were ahead of trends with their ruffle-trimmed tops and jackets! After browsing several websites, I notice that ruffles are just now coming in full force. I recently noticed that Chadwick's has drifted from 'Lois Lane' demure to 'Wisteria Lane' allure to increase company sales.



I decided it was about time to add some ruffles to my wardrobe. I recalled that it was a little over a year ago when I made a McCall's blouse with ruffles alongside the center front. I pulled out this McCall's from a little box (a former box with tangerines) containing my "to be sewed soon" patterns. What an opportune time (before fall begins) to have a sleeveless blouse in lightweight cotton.


This INC International Concepts top seemed to very closely resemble this McCall's pattern from Macy's, $59.

Also from Macy's is this Sunny Leigh top in circles print.




Pattern Description
Misses' tops and skirts. Fitted tops A and B have cut-in armholes, princess seams, front bands with ruffles, armhole facings and front button closure. I sewed view A the top with the collar and collar band. View A has 10 pieces to cut: Front (x2), Side front(x2), Back (x1), Side back (x2), Front band (x2),Collar (x2), Collar band (x2), Ruffle (x2), Front armhole facing (x2), and Back armhole facing (x2)

Size
Misses' 4-6-8-10-12 and 14-16-18. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, tapering to a 14 at the waist and hips.

Fabric
Cotton voile from EmmaOneSock.com


Favorite Features
* Ruffled front - one edge contains a narrow hem and the other edge is gathered and sewn along the visible or right side of the front edge before attaching the front band.

* "Cutaway" armholes

* Princess seams


Issues Encountered
*I was skeptical about using the armhole facings. Interestingly enough, I was not able to successfully align the armhole facing to the armscye. I opted for another method to finish the armscyes.

*The armholes (originally floppy and loose) became more fitted after I attached bias binding.

*My ruffle nearest the bottom hem seems like a wilting flower. Since McCall's models have their tops tucked in, I could not see if their ruffles acted similarly.

*My collar came out differently than expected.

*I have extra ease in the waist/hip area.

*I encountered some difficulty with sewing the buttonholes on a narrow band with my sewing machine.


Directions
Were adequately clear and straightforward. The lower edge was hemmed by section (fronts, back). I thought this was strange because I thought it would increase the likelihood of the fronts becoming misaligned at the bottom.

Modifications
* Made a 1" petite adjustment (shortened 1" at the marked line)



* Used French seams for all seams (sides, front, back, shoulders)


* Instead of sewing the front back on the outside with the right sides together, I sewed the front facing from the inside (right side of facing along the edge of the inside of the blouse). Then I turned the band to the outside with the raw edge turned under, pressed and topstitched along the edge. I did this to avoid handstitching the band to the inside seams.



* After not having luck with the armhole facings, I turned under the raw edge and sewed a 3/8" hem at the armsecyes. That did not work, because the sleeves became overstretched and unwearable to me. I decided to make the armscye work by machine gathering using loose and long stitches along the stitch and using bias binding. I adapted Meggie LuLu's slick binding method.


*I should have attached the collar first before turning the front to the outside and topstitching. I twisted the upper part of the front band in an unconventional way to tuck beneath the collar band. I didn't bother re-doing my goof and left the collar as is. That's what I get for sewing in a daze...



Conclusion
This top would have been simpler if I had not taken some strange detours along the way. But that usually happens to me when I work with a pattern for the first time. If I sew this top again, I would omit the ruffles for a change of style.

Nevertheless, I still recommend the top, especially for its fun and feminine style. Being versatile, it can be easily paired with jeans, slacks, or a skirt (mini to maxi). The sleeveless style coupled with a breezy fabric make it so ideal for summer.