Brooke Sh-leeves

I made this top last May.






I vaguely remember Brooke's fashion line for McCall's consisting of practical and stylish clothes in the 80's. Now we have Hilary Duff partnering up with McCall's.

I have several Brooke Shields patterns. This is the first one that I actually sewed up.

My version in embroidered linen fabric from Emma One Sock. This is the second time I sewed in this fabric.

I was a Brooke Shields fan in my teens and I am still a fan of her now. She has survived well in show business considering the media frenzy that permeated during her youth.


Here's Brooke on the Emmy red carpet looking stunning in red!



She also looks fab in a crisp white shirt from NY & Co.


Pattern Description
1986 dated pattern licensed from Brooke Shields and Co.

The pattern envelope mentions that is a "Learn to Sew for Fun" pattern, which seems very suitable for beginners or those who like patterns that describe some methods in more detail.

"Misses' blouses and camisole: Fitted blouses with scoop neckline and camisole have princess seaming and button closings. Blouse A has three-quarter length sleeves with gathered caps and tie cuffs. Blouse B, with short sleeves, and sleeveless bouse C have shaped front hemline. A and B have sleeve heads. Lined, strapless camisole D has left side button closing..." I sewed View B.

Size
One-size, Miss 12.

Fabric
Embroidered cotton linen from EmmaOneSock. This was left over from a New Look blouse with the gathered neckline.

Favorite Features
* Princess seams
* All the bodice pieces sew together very nicely, matching up at the notches, without having to ease the pieces.
* Flattering rounded neckline
* Short semi-flutter sleeves
* Curved hemline


Not-so-favorite Features
* I already found the the length of the top to be short, considering that I am short waisted. On 5'10" Brooke, the length seems fine for her, but I found that the pattern was drafted differently.

* The collar neckband needed to be lengthened a little in order to reach the front facings before turning them inward.

*The upper back needs to be taken in a little more.

Directions
In comparison to some of the current patterns such as those from Simplciity's Project Runway series, the layout is more user-friendly, the directions are sufficient, the illustrations are clear, and contains a sections that have tips on working with patterns, which can be useful for sewists are who are new to working with patterns. besides the cutting layout and the technical drawings of the viewsand pattern pieces, there is an entire section devoted to pattern shortening or lengthening, fabric preparation, types of pattern markings, and transferring pattern markings. Also, the directions for sleeve placket construction and setting in a sleeve are somewhat more detailed than usual.


Modifications
*Shortened the length between the bust and waist 3/4"
*Lengthened all pieces for the bodice 1 1/2"
*Used french seams at the sides
*Reduced the seams 1/8" to allow for more ease


Conclusion
With just another adjustment, I plan to use this pattern again soon. It does not take too long to sew, especially if you have experience with making button-down shirts. I cannot wait to try Brooke's camp shirt pattern and boho gathered front dress that I have in my stash. So far, I have been impressed with McCall's patterns from the 70's and 80's, in terms of the drafting, fit, and directions.

Greensleeve-less

Pattern Description
"Cocktails or after-work get-together, this delicate sleeveless overblouse with metallic sheen and hip sash and bow in 1920's style is perfect for a party!"

Size
Burda sizes 36-46. I sewed a "40" at the shoulders and armscyes, and a "42" at the bust and hips. Although I could have used a "40" in the bust and hips to reduce some volume.




Fabric
Designer cottom fabric from GorgeousFabrics.com


Favorite Features
* Nautical/sailor styled collar where a large rectangular piece covers the upper back of the top. The upper and lower collars are cut from the same piece and do not need to be interfaced ;-). The notches align nicely at the shoulder seams when basting the large collar piece to the neckline before sewing the front and back facings onto the neckline.

* Back facing

* Actually what Burda refers to as the "waistband" should be "hip band" because the belt/sash is situated well below my waistline (and also on Burda's dressform) which I prefer because it gives an illusion of a longer torso.

* This style seems to go well with any fabric (except knits)


Not-so-favorite Features
*If I had sewn the way it was printed, the neckline would have been EXCEEDINGLY low.

*Slight gaping at upper armhole and upper chest.

*The baggy and wrinkly back needs to be further adjusted. (My 6-year-old photographer literally and figuratively snapped that picture "behind my back.")

* Armhole facings. I could have used bias trim with the fabric I was using. I would keep the facings for heavier fabrics.


Directions
They were adequate. I got used to the "lay" the pieces instructions and finishing the edges of the facings and armscyes as usual without Burda mentioning to do so. However, I made sure that I did not sew the wrong sections that would warrant me to take out my handy dandy seam ripper (I did use it because I forgot to leave a slit at the lower left seam where the sash bow would be located). I re-read the step on collar construction. I sewed the collar and its facing along "its outer edges", right sides together, keeping the neckline section unstitched (where it will be turned inside out).

Before attaching the belt/sash, Burda has you gather the lower edge. I undid my "overgathering" else I would not not be able to slip the top over my head. It's best to try on the top with the gathers and adjust accordingly before sewing on the belt.

Based on my size, I cut a rectangular strip of fabric with a length of 80" and a width of nearly 7" of fabric for the waistband. The only "mind-boggling" moment for me was deciphering the waistband or belt/sash construction. I was not certain if the waistband piece was to be attached to the lower edge of the top before finishing the edges of the sash. So I did what I was comfortable with or what made sense to me. I created the belt/sash piece first before attaching it to the lower edge of the top. I sewed 3/8" from the edge right sides together, leaving a 3" gap to turn the belt inside out. I folded the belt in half, marking this section with a pin to attach to the right seam of the top (right sides together) at its lower edge. Then I pinned the rest of the belt, making sure the tie ends are evenly past the left slit before stitching the belt to the edge of the top. It's handy to have a serger to finish the inside seam formed with the waistband/belt.



Modifications
* As I traced, I raised the neckline 3" from the center tapering to 0" at the shoulders. I also adjusted the front facing and the collar to have the same contour.

* I made a petite adjustment. I took out 1" in between the bust and hips.

* Although not mentioned in the directions, I ironed on lightweight fusible interfacing to the front, back, and the armscye facings.

* I used french seams at the shoulders and the sides.

* From force of habit and not reading the directions carefully, I sewed the side seams before attaching the armscye facings, which made sense to me since I used French seams. However, Burda has you sew them onto the edges of the armscye BEFORE sewing the side seams. This process seems logical in order to anchor the facings in place.

* I added five buttons and buttonholes instead of using snaps.


Conclusion
I thought this waistcoat was simple (yet not a quick sew) to put together, although I made some detours from the directions. If I would make it again, I would decrease the length, more noticeably in the back . I highly recommend this pattern for its distinctive style, keeping in mind of the potentially

Lime After Lime

Then you say--sew slow--
I fall behind--
the second spool unwinds

If you're lost you can look--and you will find me
lime after lime...




Pattern Description
Misses' Jackets: Semi-fitted or loose-fitting, unlined jackets A, B, C, D are slightly below waist, have neck band, with or without front tucks, sleeves and sleeve length variations. A, B: front princess seams. B: sleeve tucks. C, D: shaped front hem. C: lined, two-piece sleeves.

Size
I used a size "12" at the shoulders, arms and a "14" at the bust and hips.


Fabric
Stretch cotton twill from EmmaOnesock.com




Favorite Features
*The gathered front below the upper yoke

*The tulip looking short sleeves

*The "L" shaped front facing.


Not-so-favorite features
* Came out shorter than what I had expected. A taller woman would need to lengthen the bodice.

* The high yoke and gathers below balloon out from my upper back

* I made a mistake of making a 1" petite adjustment, which I should not have done

* I did not like the jacket buttoned on me. It seemed as if I were trying to squeeze into a little girl's jacket. Heather can probably wear it.

Directions
In terms of clarity, they along with the illustrations are similar to a typical Kwik Sew. In terms of organization, I would not give it high marks due to sifting through steps that are unique to one view and those that are common to more than one view. I suggest being familiar with the layout and lightly penciling the steps that belong to the view of your choice.

Modifications
*Omitted the sleeve linings or the self-facings.

*Hemmed the bottom of the sleeves

*It was easy to overlap the front and back pieces of the sleeves. For my first sleeve, I was able to pin and baste them together, lining up their centers and the small dots. Then I became overconfident in doing the same with the second sleeve, thinking "this is easy"! However, I did not realize I misaligned the second sleeve until I noticed in the mirror that the overlap portion was lower than the one in my first sleeve (oops!). I had to use my seam ripper to unstitch the sleeve from the armscyes (ouch...) and redo the the overlap.


Conclusion
I recommend this jacket because I found it easy to construct (for me, I was remiss in aligning the sleeve during the overlap step), but not a quick project (i.e. handstitching the yoke facing to the inside seam at the neckline and handstitching the lower hem). I caution about the length for those who have longer torsos. You might be the lucky one to have this jacket fit and flatter you nicely.

Since I would have to put in more time (i.e. in redrafting the back, lengthening and making more adjustments) I plan to not use this pattern in the near future. Too many patterns and too little time!

Twists of Fury

Twist tops in the spotlight:
Chadwick's twist front top in poly matte jersey.

From Bloomindale's for $98, Lynn Ritchie's "Colloquial" twist front top in silk/rayon viscose.

Another Chadwick's front twist top modeled by Cathy Zeta-Jones? What will be her next movie gig?


Butterick's version (5283). I made the central twist version with long sleeves.

My first version, "Giraffic Park".

My second version, "Charlie Brown Fan Club"



My all-time favorite twistie top pattern has been Jalie 2788. I was not sure how this would turn out, being leery about "easy" patterns not fitting properly. It took me about 2 hours (including cutting) to complete this top.

Pattern Description
MISSES' TOP: Close-fitting, pullover tops have stitched hems. A, B: self-faced twisted upper fronts. C, D: self-faced twisted asymmetrical fronts. I sewed view B.


Size
I cut a "10" at the shoulders, a "12" at the armscyes and the bodice, tapering to a "14" at the sides. I was uncertain as to where the seam below the bustline would land. After making it, I was relieved that the seam did not land directly on my bustline. I wonder it it pertained to my choice of fabric.

Fabric
Poly/lycra/jersey purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics, over a year ago. This was the fabric I used for our matching Jalie twist front tops July of last year.

Favorite features
*Twist front
*Bodice is self-faced
*Neckline has soft gathers due to the twist and did not come low like a typical Burda WOF would on me.
*Pattern has 4 pieces: upper front (x2), lower front cut at center fold (x1), sleeve (x2) and back cut at center fold (x1)


Other features
* Top is really fitted on me, per description.

* Shoulder width seemed just a tad narrow

* After my first fitting, as mentioned in previous reviews of this view, the opening (formed after twisting the upper left bodice and attaching it to the lower left front from the marked dot to the side seam), revealed more than cleavage, such as undergarment color. I could have narrowed the opening (located on the center of the upper front, lower edge) by decreasing the length of stitching between the circles while sewing the upper bodice to its front facing, right sides together, before turning them inside out.


Directions
* They were adequate, except for the twist part (Butterick assumes that you know how to do it). A diagram that shows the direction of twist of the left section of the upper front bodice would be very helpful for the beginner sewist. The diagrams are reliable enough with a skim of the steps for the more experienced sewist.

* Preparing the upper front bodice was the first step where the bodice and self-facings were sewn right sides together along the upper edge (between the shoulders)and at the little low curve between clipped dots which mark the location of the twist.

* After turning the upper bodice inside out, seams along the sides and a portion of the armscye are basted to keep the facing intact.

* The lower right front is sewn to the upper right front bodice, stopping just before the apex of the lower front that has been already finished with a 5/8" hem, which could have been decreased lengthwise to After turning the upper left bodice 360 degrees, I attached the the bottom edge of the left side of upper front bodice to the lower front, from the side seam to the start of the twist, or what was originally one of the marked circles.

*The tricky part was sewing the bodice to the back at each shoulder, catching all three layers where the the self-facing portion had been lifted and pinned beneath the back. After turning inside out, I like the nicely finished neckline. However, for the second version, out came the seam ripper when I discovered that just below my neck and left shoulder, the edge upper front did not align with the back edge. Somehow the hemmed back edge slipped while I was stitching the three layers together. I re-stitched the shoulder seam and it turned out better.


Modifications
* Decreased the length by 3/4" at the adjustment line.

* Sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of setting them in.

* To reduce the the twist opening between the upper and lower bodice, I handstitched from each end 1/2" towards the center.

* To reduce the ease at each sleeve cap, I took out a maximum 1/2" from the edge.

* For the second version, I decreased the stitching between the circles (from approximately 2" to 1") that designate the portion where the upper bodice is twisted and where the stitching starts or ends when joining the lower edge of the upper bodice to the lower front or skirt piece. I notice the uneven distribution of fabric - my upper right side of my top had more bunching. I attribute this to the bulk caused by the double fabric. Maybe there was a good reason why Butterick drafted the gap the way it is, with the option to handstitch the corners???


Would you sew it again?
Yes, same view, but with shorter sleeves. I don't think I would be able to do a very nice job as my fellow PRers who sewed the asymmetrical twist version, which I am still afraid to try. I'll stick with the centered twist.


Conclusion
I definitely still recommend this pattern, being wary of the twist opening's tendency to be agape as drafted. Once you are familiar with fitting issues, if any, it really is a quick and easy top to sew!

Puff and Stuff

Are you puff enough?
Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Stanton shirt, Macy's, $109. I also used white buttons for the second version of my Vogue 8557 shirt.

Mouseketeer? Valentino dress from 2006.

Three weeks ago, I made my second version of Vogue 8557 in cotton sateen.


Showing some sheen due to the lighting.

My first version of this puffed shirt. I don't think cotton twill is the best fabric for this style. I don't know why I selected this fabric. If there is a luau, then now I have something to wear. I could have used a fabric with a lighter weight.



Pattern Description
Blouses with princess seams, collar and sleeve variations. I sewed view A with the gathered sleeves with elastic casing.

Size
8-10-12-14. I sewed a "12" at the shoulders, tapering to a "14" at the hips. For my second version, I sewed a "10" at the sleeve caps to reduce some bulk. I used 1/4" elastic for my second version and 1/2" for my first version.

Fabric
First version: Twill cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Second version:Sateen cotton from Fashionista Fabrics.


Directions
I thought the directions were fine for advanced sewers and above. The pattern's specified label of very easy is misleading because it should say easy, but time consuming. Something basic such as a 2 piece knit top I would consider very easy, but not a shirt with princess seams, front facings, buttonholes, a collar, and puffed sleeves with an elasticized casing at the lower edge. I spent as many hours as I would sew a lined jacket. The second took less, but not significantly less time. I fussed with the collar, french seams, and hand gathering the sleeve caps.




This is probably one of those rare instances when I sewed the back and side lower hems BEFORE attaching the front facing. Usually I hem the entire shirt after turning in the front facing. When attaching the front facing which extends about 1/2" beyond the front edge, I would exercise caution when stitching the front facing onto the front facing (right sides together) along their lower edges (perpendicular to the grain of the fabric), so that the stitching would align with the rest of the hem after trimming the seam and turning the entire front facing inside out. I positioned the needle about 2 mm below seems to be the lowest edge of the hem. Otherwise, if it were stitched higher than that, the edge of the front had a tendency to "twist" under due to some misalignment coupled with the bulk of the fabric and interfacing. As a result, the front edge would end being a tad shorter than the lower hem located just behind the front princess seams.

Favorite Features
* Collar size
* Contoured fit
* Princess seams
* Slightly dropped shoulder, de-emphasis of waist line


Not-so-favorite Features
*Does appear to run a size larger.
*No back facing below collar
*Second's version unstable elastic casing. After even one short arm movement, the sleeve tended to ride up against my upper arm which was more apparent in my second than the first version. For my first version, I used wider elastic and cotton twill fabric which provided more resistance. Is should have adhered to my instince to use arm bands for my second version for a sleeker style, but I guess Vogue was aiming for the bunched look at the lower sleeve hems.

Modifications
*Shortened 1" at length adjustment line.
*Used French seams to avoid dealing with fraying fabric
*Hand gathered the sleeve caps

Conclusion
It seems as if this style would be better suited for figures with broader backs and shoulders. If I do plan to make this shirt again, I would use lighter weight fabric. I still recommed this style if you like the flattering look of princess seams and the 80's look of the short, puffed sleeve.

Ruffle-ly Speaking

Two years ago, it seemed that our PR'ers were ahead of trends with their ruffle-trimmed tops and jackets! After browsing several websites, I notice that ruffles are just now coming in full force. I recently noticed that Chadwick's has drifted from 'Lois Lane' demure to 'Wisteria Lane' allure to increase company sales.



I decided it was about time to add some ruffles to my wardrobe. I recalled that it was a little over a year ago when I made a McCall's blouse with ruffles alongside the center front. I pulled out this McCall's from a little box (a former box with tangerines) containing my "to be sewed soon" patterns. What an opportune time (before fall begins) to have a sleeveless blouse in lightweight cotton.


This INC International Concepts top seemed to very closely resemble this McCall's pattern from Macy's, $59.

Also from Macy's is this Sunny Leigh top in circles print.




Pattern Description
Misses' tops and skirts. Fitted tops A and B have cut-in armholes, princess seams, front bands with ruffles, armhole facings and front button closure. I sewed view A the top with the collar and collar band. View A has 10 pieces to cut: Front (x2), Side front(x2), Back (x1), Side back (x2), Front band (x2),Collar (x2), Collar band (x2), Ruffle (x2), Front armhole facing (x2), and Back armhole facing (x2)

Size
Misses' 4-6-8-10-12 and 14-16-18. I sewed a 12 at the shoulders, tapering to a 14 at the waist and hips.

Fabric
Cotton voile from EmmaOneSock.com


Favorite Features
* Ruffled front - one edge contains a narrow hem and the other edge is gathered and sewn along the visible or right side of the front edge before attaching the front band.

* "Cutaway" armholes

* Princess seams


Issues Encountered
*I was skeptical about using the armhole facings. Interestingly enough, I was not able to successfully align the armhole facing to the armscye. I opted for another method to finish the armscyes.

*The armholes (originally floppy and loose) became more fitted after I attached bias binding.

*My ruffle nearest the bottom hem seems like a wilting flower. Since McCall's models have their tops tucked in, I could not see if their ruffles acted similarly.

*My collar came out differently than expected.

*I have extra ease in the waist/hip area.

*I encountered some difficulty with sewing the buttonholes on a narrow band with my sewing machine.


Directions
Were adequately clear and straightforward. The lower edge was hemmed by section (fronts, back). I thought this was strange because I thought it would increase the likelihood of the fronts becoming misaligned at the bottom.

Modifications
* Made a 1" petite adjustment (shortened 1" at the marked line)



* Used French seams for all seams (sides, front, back, shoulders)


* Instead of sewing the front back on the outside with the right sides together, I sewed the front facing from the inside (right side of facing along the edge of the inside of the blouse). Then I turned the band to the outside with the raw edge turned under, pressed and topstitched along the edge. I did this to avoid handstitching the band to the inside seams.



* After not having luck with the armhole facings, I turned under the raw edge and sewed a 3/8" hem at the armsecyes. That did not work, because the sleeves became overstretched and unwearable to me. I decided to make the armscye work by machine gathering using loose and long stitches along the stitch and using bias binding. I adapted Meggie LuLu's slick binding method.


*I should have attached the collar first before turning the front to the outside and topstitching. I twisted the upper part of the front band in an unconventional way to tuck beneath the collar band. I didn't bother re-doing my goof and left the collar as is. That's what I get for sewing in a daze...



Conclusion
This top would have been simpler if I had not taken some strange detours along the way. But that usually happens to me when I work with a pattern for the first time. If I sew this top again, I would omit the ruffles for a change of style.

Nevertheless, I still recommend the top, especially for its fun and feminine style. Being versatile, it can be easily paired with jeans, slacks, or a skirt (mini to maxi). The sleeveless style coupled with a breezy fabric make it so ideal for summer.

Mint-Some and Clovers

After some disappoinment with Kwik Sew 3295
due to some gaping in the v-neck and surprisingly narrow shoulders, I decided to return to my nearly TNT pattern, Kwik Sew 3062 I recall liking the rounded and topstitched neckline, lower empire waist, the lower front cut on the bias, and the distinctive puffed sleeves.



Third version in cotton from EmmaOneSock.com.

First version made last fall

Third version, photographed by my 6-year old. My personal photographer received a Simplicity 2944 "Cheetah Girl" knit tunic as commission.


Size
XS-S-M-L-XL. I sewed sewed a medium.

The changes I made were:
*100% cotton fabric from EmmaOneSock.com
* making a 3/4" petite adjustment at the marked line and adding the same amount to the bottom. The top tends to run short in length in my opinion, even though I am short-waisted.
* sewing French seams at the sides and shoulders.


Things I noticed in my third version:
* This and some other KS patterns seem to run one or even two sizes smaller than what I normally use in the Big 4 patterns.
* Although I am a "B" cup, I found the size medium's upper bodice roomy.
* I discovered that there is some looseness in the upper back (as in the Kwik Sew 3295 woven top that I just sewed), making it ideal for those with broader backs. I pinched temporary back shoulder darts which seemed to eliminate or reduce the problem.
* Maybe losing 4 lbs this month has something to do with above (so far I am having better success with my "back to the 80's" workout routine)

I'm not going to give up on Kwik Sew 3295...

************************************************

Original Review, Oct. 22, 2008
Kwik Sew 3062 has been on my wish list for some time. What prompted me to purchase this recently was the fact that it will be discontinued at PR (discontinued according to the Kwik Sew website).

Pattern Description
"Misses' pullover tops have sccop neckline finished with bias cut binding, gathers under bust and lower front is cut on bias. View A has slit on bodice at center front seam, and gathered sleeves have shirring with elastic. View B has short gathered sleees with elastic in casing in bottom edges. Pull-on bias cut skirt has elastic in casing at waist, and two ruffles at bottom edge." I sewed View B.

Size
Misses' XS -XL. I referred to my bust size and sewed a "M". I find that Kwik Sews have been generous in their sizing. I even find the "M" a tad roomy overall!


Fabric
What seems like a medium weight, mixed woven, "The Road to Sao Paolo", from Gorgeous Fabrics. It seems to be already sold out.


Favorite Features
*Very easy to construct

*Few pattern pieces involved: upper bodice, bias front skirt, bias neckline, sleeve, and back.

*I was hesitant to purchase this due to the empire chest which has in the past made me look as if I am expecting. Hopefully the bias front skirt below the bust coupled with the lower empire styling minimizes that.

*Puffed sleeves

*Scoop neck

*Bias finish at the neckline

*5/8" seam allowances included


Other Features
*Neckline scoop came lower than represented by the illustration on the envelope.
*Needs to be adjusted for sway back.
*The sleeves puffed out more (gathered quite a bit at the sleeve caps) than those featured on the envelope.
*Length of top appears shorter than expected


Directions
Clear and easy to read with very helpful illustration as what I typically expect from a Kwik Sew.

The finishing of the neckline is interesting in that the method described drifted from methods with which I am familiar. Instead of pinning the bias strip (sewn at the ends, forming a loop), right sides of fabric together along the neckline, I pinned it from the inside of the top or right side of the bias loop to the wrong side of the fabric along the neckline, ensuring that the notches align with the shoulder seams. I sewed the recommended 1/4" from the raw edges (could have sewn a little more to reduce the width of the binding) and turned the strip to the outside and press. Then I topstitched the binding, close to the encased edge.

Modifications
*To lower the empire seam, I extended the upper bodice by adding 1/4" along the lower edge and the bias skirt by adding 1/4" along its upper edge.

Conclusion
I highly recommend this pattern if you want to create something that does not require a lot of time and that is easy to sew with minimal adjustments. The Kwik Sew website states that this pattern is already discontinued and will soon be on PR! I wish I had purchased this pattern sooner! I plan to make a few more tops with sleeve variations.

Giraffic Park

Last fall/winter, I made Heather a "Cheetah Girls" tunic from this Simplicity pattern:



She's very happy about the style!


Twin-kie fun!

I just finished the second version this afternoon and Heather wore it to her grandparents' house.

Pattern Description
"Girls' jacket or vest, knit dress in two lengths and tunic. I sewed view "C" (with semi-detached gathered sleeves) in the tunic version

Size
Girls' 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. I made an estimated size smaller than an "8".

Fabric
Poly knit jersey (left over from our matching tops made last year) purchased over a year ago from Gorgeousfabrics.com.


Favorite features
*Trendy sleeve style
*Thick shoulder straps (also knows as the upper front yoke)
*Gathered center front in upper bodice
*Easy to construct.
*Comfortable

Not-so-favorite features
* Why does this pattern (and many others) draft patterns for girls assuming they are built like little football players?

* Maybe not so much in the first version, but in the second version, I noticed during my daughter's first fitting, the neckline was unacceptably low and just drooped. Since I made the first version 8 months ago, I do not remember clearly what modifications I made, if any.


Directions
They were fine and the illustrations helped further clarify certain steps such as placement of semi-detached sleeve onto the armscye by placing on the marked dots.


Modifications
*Instead of using loose, long machine stitches to gather the center of the upper bodice, I used a 1/4" wide piece of elastic, stretching while I sewed.

*I noticed even after the straps were taken in further, the upper front edge still drooped. After looking at the pieces to see what I can do, I moved (more like scooted over) what seemed like extra fabric in the upper edge of the upper bodice towards the strap so that it would further overlap the strap, thus becoming part of the larger seam allowance between the front strap and the upper bodice.

*Three baste and fit moments (someone almost became irate and impatient) resulted in an additional 2" in the seam between the front strap and the upper bodice.


Conclusion
Despite my challenges with raising the neckline of the upper bodice, I was able to complete my daughter's tunic within 3 1/2 hours (includes pinning the pattern and cutting the fabric). If I sew with this pattern again, I would sew the dress/tunic with the fully attached sleeves. If you have this pattern for a young lady you know, check for the fit of the front straps and bodice and adjust accordingly. Other than that fitting issue, it's simple to sew, and even better with a serger!

My Mini Hem-Fix Experience...

This is officially my first Burda WOF skirt. Also amongst my 158 (3 were inadvertently triplicated from an original) reviews, this is really my first review of a skirt.


I have not regularly worn short skirts or shorts in public since the mid 90's. This picture is from 1994.

Pattern Description
My description: Retro-looking aline skirt with faced waistline, button-down front and pockets.

I didn't know Burda signed up Jennifer Lopez to model.




Burda's description:
"Everything is true-to-style here: the nostalgic jacquard pattern, the romantic pale turquoise colour, the feminine a-line shape, small patch pockets as well as self-fabric covered buttons".


Size
Burda misses' 34-44. I sewed a "40" and it is really fitted at the waist and hips, and fortunately my fabric had enough stretch. Already I feel that below the waist, this particular a-line silhouette was somewhat overwhelming for my frame.

Fabric
Stretch cotton twill from EmmaOneSock.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Somewhat due to my fabric and buttons choice and not having a 22" waistline. My picture did not capture the actual a-line quality of my skirt. My fabric choice and buttons made my skirt more offbeat and whimsical. In the Burda magazine photo, there's a baby next to the model, seated on the floor. How RARELY realistic to have a mom wearing a skirt like this shortly after having a baby. When my daughter was that baby's age I could only wear (and continue to wear) pants with elastic waistbands.


Favorite Features
* Retro styling
* Easy to construct
* Well drafted. The pattern pieces aligned nicely, especially where the upper facing, waist edge and darts are concerned.


Not-so-favorite Features
*Between the first and second button, there was a ripple caused by my lower belly. After looking again at Burda's version, the thin model experienced this issue, but, of course much less pronounced. Christy S also provided a sleek and clever solution in her review of her inspiring and adorable skirt.

*Certain steps in the directions were not clear.


Directions
* Directions were adequate, especially if you are familiar with sewing pants with upper facings and shirts with front facings.

View from the inside.

* BEFORE folding to create the front self-facing and attaching the upper facing to finish the waist section, Burda does not mention to finish the edges of the front self-facings and the lower (unattached) edge of the upper facing prior to Bias binding leaves a flawless finish. Since I did not want to spend more time on supposedly a very easy garment, I simply folded and iron-pressed the raw edges under 1/4" and topstitched in place.

"Lay, lay, lay what you want, but don't play games with the directions..."
* The tricky part is step, "Lay self-facings on front edges outward and pin to upper edge." I had to "lay" on this one for just a moment. Then I got it. Just rewording that step to "turn outwards the front self-facing along the first fold line and pin self facing at upper edge" would have been more clear to me. Then the upper facing (consisting of each front facing attached to the back facing with a center back seam) is sewn to the upper edge of the skirt, right sides together, paying attention to sewing the ends of the front facing onto the upper part of the self-facing (turn outwards).

Then I read "Lay upper facing upward and stitch to seam allowance, close to seam...." Huh? I thought it was mentioned to sew the upper facing onto the upper edge of the skirt. I had to think about this a little longer. Burda could have simply wrote, "Understitch the upper facing to prevent it from flapping out."

*If I sewed with heavier material such as denim, I would have not cut each pocket on a fold (pocket piece would be folded in half and stitched right sides together, leaving a gap large enough to turn inside out), but instead as a single piece to avoid the extra bulk when I sew them onto the skirt fronts at the placement lines. I topstitched the pocket onto the skirt approximately 1/8" from the edge instead of hand-stitching as directed.


Modifications
*Shortened skirt by 2" to raise the skirt just above knee level.

*Cut pockets on the bias to slightly interrupt the busy print on the front of the skirt.

*Used four instead of five buttons. I wanted to preserve freedom of movement such as walking comfortably in normal strides, and being able to sit down I wish I had reduced the spacing buttons a tad to be able to sew a fifth button since I shortened the length.


Conclusion
I am not sure as to whether I would sew it again. Although I like the style, I don't think it is a style that flatters my proportions (short torso, long legs, rounded tummy). If I did sew it again, I would sew it in a nectarine color and use either big white or black buttons for a dramatic effect.

Despite the directions, I still would recommend this pattern as a first time Burda WOF-er, especially for those like myself who have not made (let alone worn) skirts for some time.

After making this skirt, I have more incentive to wear skirts, and thus make more...

BTW: I still have those Levi's shorts... in a box somewhere.

Made in Sweden

Desperate Housewife, Bree Hodge?



I saw this in Boston Proper and immediately thought that this reminded me of Burda 7647 sans the front band.



Pattern Description and Some Background...
This top or dress has a gathered or twisted bust section and matching shoulder straps. Both versions are chic and uncomplicated, so they are ideal for packing in a suitcase.
Recommended fabric:
Jersey




Yes, I agree that my top was ideal for packing in a suitcase, because of the seemingly easy care knit that I used. However, this top did not get packed in my suitcase for our trip to Sweden to visit my in-laws. It got packed on our way home to Southern California. How did that happen?

Standing near my in-laws' guest house. My in-laws so kindly gave up their own room to accommodate the three of us (there's only one bathroom and it's inside the main house). They ended up sleeping in the guest house.


So when youre near me, darling can't you hear me
S. O. S.
The love you gave me, nothing else can save me
S. O. S.


I purchased this pattern at a little shop in Oskarshamn, Sweden (popl 17,143). We stayed with my husband's parents in Hogsby (popl 1,965) for nearly 3 weeks after visting Stockholm for four days. Somewhere in between sight-seeing, eating great food, and visiting and being visited by my husband's relatives, I was going through some rare form of S.O.S. (Sewing Over Seas or Sewing Obsession Syndrome). My mother-in-law was very kind to let me use her 20-year-old Pfaff (Uh oh... that is enough to trigger my condition). My husband told me it had been collecting dust for some time now.

There was no local shop in Hogsby that we knew of that carried sewing supplies and my father-in-law drove (approximately 40 minutes) us to Oskarshamn. We took a mini-tour of this cute and quaint coastal town and visited the town's al fresco shopping mall. The textile shop that we entered carried only home deco fabric. Across from this shop, I spotted a little shop that specialized in selling Husqvarna sewing machines. When we entered this shop, bingo! It also contained a limited selection of fabric and sewing notions. The shop seemed no larger than my living room. Fortunately my husband was able to speak Swedish to the friendly saleslady who spoke very limited English. The only patterns she carried were Burda and Butterick. This is not a Jo-Ann's so I was not expecting any pattern sales. I perused the Burda catalog and Heather the Burda for Kids catalog. I liked the look of Burda 7647 due to the sweetheart neckline and that it was geared for knits. Heather selected a pattern that carried a knit top with a gathered front finished with a bow and a pair of shorts. My husband told the saleslady the pattern numbers that Heather and I liked. We also included the fabric, a pack of sewing needles, ribbon trims, and Pfaff bobbins, thread (Guterman). Altogether, my husband paid $899.50 kronor, roughly $120 U.S.D. No special discounts for foreigners. I remember watching on Nightline a few evenings ago about being charged hidden extra fees from ATM use to hotel accommodations. You could even be charged more if you are not a local resident while shopping.

Size
Misses' 34-44. I sewed a 38. I went down a size due to my anticipation that it would be voluminous.


I know there's something sewing on...
Fabric
A floral printed knit from the shop mentioned earlier in Oskarshamn, Sweden. I believe my husband paid extra taxes on this fabric.

Heather also liked the fabric and style. To make a top more age-appropriate for her, I drafted the top from one of her RTW shirts, gathered the center front and added a little band.



Favorite Features
*Gathered center front held by a thick loop or band

*Sweetheart neckline

*Entire bodice is self-faced

*Wide shoulder straps

*Pleats below the bust


Not-so-favorite Features
*This type of empire styling has a tendency to look maternity on certain body types like mine

*Seam allowances are not included. It looks like I forgot to add seam allowances to the center band and to the lower edge of the upper front and back bodice pieces.

*To prevent the straps from sliding off the shoulders, I would need to position the straps a tad towards the center.

*I forgot to include the seam allowance above the front skirt and the back skirt which would have prevented some "riding" up one side of my bust.

*The neckline does run somewhat low for my preference


Sewing me, sewing you, it's the best we can do...
Directions
When I opened the pattern at my in-laws' home, surprise! There were no directions in English. Included were 8 languages: Italian, French, Spanish, Dutch, Danish, German, Pyckynn, Swedish. Swedish is to be expected. The English directions were downloadable from the Burda website, however, my in-laws did not have internet at the time. So, I relied on my quasi-fluency in Spanish and French, along with the more than decent illustrations. I admit that my sewing terminology is limited in the two languages, so at times I referred to the illustrations and the words in context. I discovered that 1.5 cm seam allowances were not included. Later I was able to download the English directions. From my perspective, the directions in the other languages seemed more detailed than the English ones.

The center loop or band (after sewing one side right sides together and turning inside out) is basted on the right side of the center front of the bodice before the self-facing is attached. I don't know how I skipped this step. Maybe I had just admired the lovely landscape outside the window to my left and skipped the step where I left off when I returned to sewing.

To prevent the straps from sliding from my shoulders, I wished I placed the straps another cm towards the center. Otherwise, it is not a major issue as is.

As instructed, I handstitched or slip-stitched the folded edge of the facing onto the seam of the upper bodice and skirt (front and back). I then handstitched the other end of the center loop or band along the inside seam over the front self-facing.



Mamma-Mi-odifications

* Shortened straps each by 1"

* Skipped the lengthwise topstitching on the shoulder straps

* Omitted lengthening the top by the recommended 4 cm.



Yes, if I had to do the seams again
I would, my friend, Fernan-Sew...
Conclusion
Although this pattern is marked 3 dots, the overall construction is fairly simple. I was able to get by without the English set of directions!

If I sew this top again, I would
*raise the neckline by a little longer loop to decrease the gathering (although I like the gathering the way it is) or adding the possible missing seam allowance below the bodice

*add the missing seam allowance above the front and back skirts, which I hope would reduce the "expecting" effect.

*transfer the strap positions to prevent the straps from sliding off the shoulders

I still would recommend this top because it has a super potential to be a lovely and versatile summer piece.

My S.O.S. lasted for only 3 days...